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Everything posted by h_d

  1. I don't suppose you've accidentally dragged both handles of the gradient off the image area?
  2. Most of those are the Apple Photos extensions (Develop Extension, Edit in Affinity Photo Extension, Affinity Haze Removal etc) which are separate from the main Affinity apps and are only accessible via the editing suite in Apple Photos (not Affinity Photo). That's presumably why they're not listed in the article. They aren't affected by any resets to the main Affinity apps. If you don't use Apple Photos you'll never have seen them in action, although they get installed by default, and they don't really have any associated settings or preferences so I don't think you'd be losing
  3. Just to check, and apologies if I'm telling you something you already know - are you aware that the ~ symbol in this path is a macOS/Unix convention/shortcut for specifying the user's home folder? So if your system user name is credesign, and your hard disk has the default name Macintosh HD, then the full path to the Affinity Photo user settings would be: Macintosh HD/Users/credesign/Library/Containers/Affinity Photo/Data/Library/Application Support/user/ There are other Library folders at Macintosh HD/Library/ and at Macintosh HD/System/Library/. These are not the Library fold
  4. It's specifically connected with Apple's security settings on apps downloaded from the Apple App Store, nothing to do with the age, speed, memory or hardware configuration of the machine. I bought Photo and Designer from the Apple App Store and they exhibit the issue. I bought Publisher from the Affinity Store and it does not.
  5. Unfortunately the link from the first of these posts to the guide itself is dead. The second link (ultimately to @dmstraker's comprehensive PDF) is live and really helpful.
  6. All the info is in the link originally posted by @walt.farrell Those paths contain preference (.propcol) files and other data. The applications themselves are in those folders. These are the files in my folder for Affinity Photo: The names are generally self-explanatory. Object styles, raster brushes, assets, tools, tone maps... I could not say for sure if everything you need is in that folder. For example I can't see a specific file for LUT presets - but they may well be in adjustments.propcol. Are you worried about losing anything in particular? To restore a purchase
  7. If the blue coloured layer is a Rectangle or Fill Layer, you will need to select the layer and Rasterise it (from the right-click pop-up in the Layers panel) before deletion with the selection marquee will affect the pixels. And when you've made sure that the blue layer is a pixel layer, you need to select it before deletion will have any effect. If it's a rectangle, you could also draw a white ellipse over it and use Boolean subtract. You may not want to go there...
  8. If you're on macOS and using Separated Mode, it's possible that you have simply dragged the bottom edge of the document window off the bottom of the screen. In this case dragging up and resizing the window would bring it back. (There is a bug, which I have reported here, affecting the appearance of Status Bar tooltips in macOS Separated Mode. Not sure if it applies in this case though as it involves a particular sequence of steps and only lasts until a new tool is selected.)
  9. In what way? I followed the admittedly brief guide in the SLR Lounge article linked by @v_kyr As I understand it, using Saturation Blend Mode, a fully saturated overlay of any hue whatsoever will boost the saturation of all hues in the underlying layer - the higher the saturation in the underlying layer, the higher the saturation of the resulting blend, no matter what the hue of the overlay. The SLR Lounge article uses a fully saturated rainbow layer to illustrate this. I set up an AP document with an image overlaid with a rainbow-filled rectangle and a black-to white greyscale
  10. At a guess, the "tt" element of "https" has been typed as a ligature rather than two separate characters, and the web browser doesn't know how to display ligatures. Try this: in the Character panel, expose Typography and turn off Standard Ligatures (the 'fl' button):
  11. You'll need to drill down a lot further to get to the settings folder. This is the path on my Mac (for Affinity Photo, purchased from the Apple App Store): One quick way to get to the correct folder is to copy the path from the page linked in @walt.farrell's post. As an example, for Affinity Photo purchased from the Apple App Store and running Big Sur, the path is ~/Library/Containers/Affinity Photo/Data/Library/Application Support/user/. In Finder click the Go Menu and choose Go to Folder: In the dialog box, paste in the path copied from the Serif support page:
  12. You can do it with a data merge, but it involves a certain amount of preparatory work creating the data table (as .csv, .tsv or .xcls) and specifying the image paths. You'll get the best results if the images are all the same size and orientation. Post back if you're interested.
  13. I can duplicate that if I create a caption box asset using a style called Caption, and subsequently make changes to the style. The asset retains the settings for the original style, and rather than overwrite or update the newly edited Caption style it creates a new one every time I place the asset on the page. I suspect this is intended as a helpful feature. The quickest way round it (assuming I've identified the problem you're having) would be to delete the original asset and create a new one.
  14. If you don't need a vector curve but you do want a nice crisp image of the outline: In Affinity Photo: Use the Flood Select Tool. Uncheck Contiguous in the toolbar and click in the white area of the image. Go to the Select menu and choose Outline. Set the width to whatever you need. I chose 2px, centred. With the selection boundary ("marching ants") still active, from the Layer menu choose New Fill Layer. Set the colour of the fill layer to black. In the Layers panel, temporarily hide the original pixel layer and from the Select menu choose deselect: Ch
  15. Ells... Perches... Rods... Chains... No fully-featured graphic design application should be without them.
  16. If you mean this sort of thing, then yes, it's possible. Here's a crude and inexpert example: I created a new document. The plain background is a fill layer with a paper texture over it, the blend mode on the paper is set to Linear Burn. The moss is a placed image, rasterised, then a hole cut into it by dragging out a rough shape with the Freehand Selection Tool and deleting the selection. The dog statue and the mushrooms are placed images, rasterised, and cut out using the Selection Brush Tool. They're layered behind the moss. I duplicated the moss layer, dragged it
  17. As far as I'm aware, the Pen Tool's Selection (and Mask) buttons are only available in Affinity Photo:
  18. From what I remember the guy who worked the scanner was so off his head that this was an automatic part of the process.
  19. I believe that files are completely interchangeable between the two platforms. I've opened .afpub files uploaded to these forums from both, and both have worked. Buy, buy, buy... 😃 (Or get the 90-day free trial and give it a whirl before you do.) EDIT: as long as you both have the same fonts...
  20. Also go to Document>Resize and change the units without changing the measurements: And what I want to know is why don't we have furlongs...
  21. @AndRo Marian I am trying to explain as best I can and I don't wish to be adversarial. My attempts to explain have focussed and I think improved my own understanding, for which I am grateful. But I don't believe that you have quite understood the relationship between Rulers (measurers) and Guides (markers). Maybe someone else can explain it better than I, but I will leave it at this: Rulers give you a measure. There are two, one for the X axis (horizontal) and one for the Y axis (vertical). Their measurements are displayed on the top and left edges of your document. You can adjust the ori
  22. Yes, absolutely. Because the Horizontal guides are perpendicular to the Vertical ruler. If I move a horizontal guide horizontally, it will move from side to side. Nothing will change.
  23. I don't understand nothing 😃 Maybe adjusting the origin will help. Open the Guides manager and then drag the origin from the top left corner of the document. The measurements in the Spread Origin section of the Guides manager will update continuously. Screen Recording 2021-05-02 at 02.20.35.mov Once you have set your origin, you can place guides to indicate its position. You can set those guides precisely by setting their values to 0 in the Guides Manager. You can mark vertically from the origin by placing a horizontal guide, as explained in mind-bogglingly tedious detail
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