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  1. Hi, thnx for the quick reply. I'm actually already kinda doing it that way. The problem isn't getting on the channel, it is creating something on that channel that is not effecting the other channels. Photoshop lets you draw on your channels without first having to create something and also allows for pasting an image (in greyscale) on a single channel. When I convert shapes to pixel layers, I can draw on it with a paintbrush in that channel without affecting it. But when I create an empty new pixel layer, I can't paint in it on a specific channel, if there is nothing there. So I first have to paint something on a pixel layer with all channels on, then go to a specific channel and draw again on it, being confined to that shape. Now I'm beginning to notice that the problems stem from that Affinity treats as much as possible as non-destructable items and that some big usability problems I've seen on here before and I'm stumbling on myself regularly come from that approach. This is where Affinity's non-destructive approach on everything is a real pain in the ***. I highly recommend them to better cater to things that require a "destructive" environment. I'm currently getting there with what I want, but with very much frustration too much time spend on it and way too limiting in what I need to do with it. PS: btw, how is that toolbar in the video done that way?
  2. Hi, I'm currently creating a game and for textures and such, I go into Photo and make them. I also recently discovered a technique for getting 4 maps (specular, gloss, ... , transparancy) into a single image file, by using the RGBA channels, since these maps only use the greyscale data. But I'm not able to get this done in Affinity Photo. At the moment I manage to get this is work on the complete image and on every color I use it can only be in red, green or bleu so it doesn't appear in the other channels. And only able to getting it grey in that particular channel by changing the tint in the main. This is doable with flat colors, but if a textures is complex (for example a wood-texture), this isn't that easy. So how do I edit in my channels without affecting the others and have the same tools and adjustments at hand for working only in that channel? In Photoshop, you could do level adjustments and such, on a single channel without affecting the other channels. Your color tools would automaticly change to greyscale. But how do you do it in Affinity Photo? Cheers
  3. Thanks, that helped! I knew there was a hack for Photoshop users, because the same Windows Ink screws up the pen pressure in several case. Since my Wacom (Intous 3) tablet is already around 13yo, new wacom-drivers seem to have mess up more than fix. So I have a driver that works flawlessly, but doesn't have the Windows Ink option in it to disable it. So it is nice to see it is an option in Affinity which makes it a hassle free feature. PS: why do I actually get blocky edges in my strokes? Mainly at angles around 10°. I have the Spacing down to 1%. Thanks again.
  4. Hi, did something change or anything? My pressure sensitivity doesn't seem to be working (and it did in the past with other versions). I got the button next to "More" enabled and in the "More" buttons, under the tab Dynamics I have the size jitter set to pressure and 100%. Yet it doesn't change in size. And there is nothing wrong with my (Wacom) tablet, it indicates it does sense the pressure. Cheers
  5. Although a quite nice result (although the face now kinda looks "ghostly" ), the point is to be able to do it in Affinity Photo. I bought the Affinity software to replace Adobe, so I need to see/try what it is all capable of.
  6. Ok, can't believe I overlooked that. Was probably scimming to the blend modes too fast. Getting there, but still a long way off. Need to get it to a point that it resembles the quality I got in Photoshop. Keypoints I have 'till now are: Posterize (currently at 6), Diffuse Glow (set to Soft Light, still figuring out the setting, currently have the Opacity of that slider set to 0, making other sliders redundant it seems, but still has an effect) and above that a Bilateral Blur (currently at Radius 11,8px and Tolerance 20%. And ofcourse the "standards" like levels, curves, brightness adjustments.
  7. I've seen that one. That is what I was referring to for what I was not looking for. "I've also seen a solution on the forum having to do with brushing a "paint effect", but that is not what I'm looking for. Too time consuming and actually not the effect I'm looking for." I currently got this (image on the left) with AP through filters and adjustment layers. I've also got sketchlines prepared (image on the right) on a seperate layer, but I'm not able get the white color blend through all the other layers through the blending options, so only the black lines are still visible. I seem to get there in bits, but it still ends up too much like photograph and smaller highlights disappearing. I haven't used AP that much yet, so it's still learning how to approach things to achieve the effect I want.
  8. I'm trying to achieve something like that aswell. Just turned a photo that way with Photoshop, but since I'm nearly at the end of my Adobe subscription and not extending it anymore, I wanted to see if I could achieve the same with Affinity Photo. I did this picture throught this tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_654r3-RDw. Obviously there is no Oil Paint filter in Affinity Photo, so I know that part isn't going to work. So I looked for a tutorial that did this without the Oil Paint filter and came accross this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=phl48dTE1KI But I get stuck at the diffuse filter, because apparantly it works differently in AP than in PS. I also noticed that some filters in AP are way too sensitive (with the use of the slider). PS has some options to the diffuse filter that AP doesn't have. I'm also trying to mix and match the 2 tutorials and filters, like where PS has the filter Poster Edges (1st link), I tried to Posterize first and then detect the edges. Posterize gives me several problems to start with, beginning with the amount of "level" of banding (slider here is way to sensitive over here if you just want a few levels). But it also creates unwanted colors, probably because of being too precise? It also diffuses the edges from one band to the other. Which in my case is unwanted. I've also seen a solution on the forum having to do with brushing a "paint effect", but that is not what I'm looking for. Too time consuming and actually not the effect I'm looking for. This is the picture I'm referring at and what I'm trying to achieve with Affinity Photo. So I don't need other software presented. I want to see if this is possible to achieve with Affinity Photo.
  9. Got the latest Affinity Photo, yet this still happens. Whatever option I do in that Snapping manager, it still blurs the image when merging down. Even the workaround with grouping the layers and then rasterizing this group, although a better solution, I have noticed still blurs it a bit (I noticed in on the hair). This is a big issue for me, since I merge down regularly, for something that straightforward. I now need to extend my background, so I duplicated the layer, brought it down, used inpainting to remove the person, transformed that layer in width to have the extensing filled. But this creates an obvious border. So I want to merge those 2 layers and use inpainting again to remove those edges from the original layer I duplicated. But I can't do this know without blurring the person.
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