Scaling by Percentage

[HairyDalek]

HI,

I am wondering how I can scale an item by percentage. There are options for width and height, but no options to scale an item by a percentage, which I think is pretty important in any serious design tool.

 

Even though the Transform palette has width/height entry points, it won’t accept percentage values. Am I missing something here?

[Ben]

To scale by percentage us "*=50%"

 

We decided to adopt a function approach instead of just putting in "50%", because some edit boxes might be a percentage value, and there's a difference between setting a value of 50% and calculating 50% of the current value.

 

You can also use +=50%, -=50%, etc.

[HairyDalek]

To scale by percentage us "*=50%"

 

We decided to adopt a function approach instead of just putting in "50%", because some edit boxes might be a percentage value, and there's a difference between setting a value of 50% and calculating 50% of the current value.

 

You can also use +=50%, -=50%, etc.

 

OK - not what I am used to. However, consider the following scenarios:

 

1 - You are scaling an item, and eyeballing it. You get it to the size you want. In Photoshop as you are scaling, you not only get the pixel dimensions of the transform, but also the % of the transform in the inspector palette.

 

2 - In Photoshop, when you import a Smart Object, you can scale it using the transform tools. A percentage scale is entered into the tool bar, and the item is scaled by that amount. That scaling is remembered by Photoshop for future edits.

 

What I’m having to do in Designer is the following, after Placing two bitmaps (in this case, for a stereo image card where there is a left image and a right image) so I have two Embedded Documents:

 

1 - Select the Left image and scale to the size the image is needed to be, using the transform tools.

 

2 - Edit the Left image to get the original dimensions of the image (in this case I need pixels).

 

3 - Type the following into Spotlight on my Mac:

(802/2240)*100 which gives me 35 - which is the percentage I need to scale the right hand image. 2240 is the width of the original image in pixels, and 802 is the size the embedded document is when scaled.

 

4 - Check that the right hand image’s pixel dimensions in the document match the original pixel dimensions

 

5 - Type in *=35% into the transform tab

 

6 >> The image is transformed by 35%

 

The problem I have here is having to smooth, easy way to arrive at the 35% transform, other than doing some maths outside of the app. This feels inelegant and messy. Remember, in Photoshop I have the % scaling to hand and it takes less than a couple of seconds to do the same thing. Should I decide to change the size of the images, I need to redo the calculations again, rescale the image to 100% so the *=40% works on the original dimensions, not the displayed dimensions.

[MaxClass]

HairyDalek,

 

Good to hear some else is also into Stereo Images. It is one of my passions and I have hundreds of very high resolution beautiful full Stereo images that I have taken over the years (how I take them is a trade secret at this time).

 

That said I decided to bring in one image pair using the “Place Image tool”, selecting the left image and dragging it onto a work board then duplicating the same procedure for the right image. I understand your concern because both images ended up different sizes.

 

I created a single rectangle that was the width of the first image across the top then placed it to the right aligning it with the left edge where I wanted the right image to end up. Then I simply selected the right image and dragged the lower right corner to snap to the width of the rectangle on top and shaped the bottom into alignment with the left image. Only took a few seconds to do this.

 

The two images are now aligned so stereo viewing is possible using parallel viewing and the zoom feature.

 

Downside is that the correct aspect ratio can easily be lost if your not careful. Of coarse one can create a pair of proper perspective rectangle templates for the perspective of the photos you are bringing in then snap each one of them into its proper place for viewing.

 

I also placed a black border around both images that helps to provide a nice clean look. Once you have them where you want them select both images and their borders and group them so they stay together.

 

One other trick I employ is typing in something like “Photo © by: Max…” in small letters, converting the text to a white fill and placing it in the lower right corner of one image. Then “option-drag” off a copy of the text and place it in the other image in approximately the same location but aligned horizontally. Then leaving one text object selected, view the images in stereo and slide the text left or right and you can make the text appear behind the frame or out in front of the stereo images adjusting the effect until you have the effect you desire. Neat trick.

 

Also because of the size of my images even saving them in AD format the files size is 62.5 MB. In other words ridiculously large. But, if I export both views (entire graphic) in JPEG format even with 100% quality the final viewing file size is only 775KB which is very doable and they can actually be viewed quite nicely in the Finder using Quick Look. But, you must retain the original file in order to modify it if needed.

 

Hope this helps. Would love to see some of your images if I can figure out how to use this forum.

 

Max

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[HairyDalek]

MaxClass - thanks for your reply. I’ve been using a Fuji stereo camera for a while. From that I get an MPO with a left and right image - and I’ve been able to extract the JPEGs and stitch them together with a little utility I wrote in AppleScript. From that, I’ve been able to import them into a “Holmes Card” template I created in Photoshop and size/adjust from there.

 

This workflow breaks when using film - I was bought a Wray stereographic camera over the summer, and that is far less precise when it comes to image size - which is why I want to scale by a percentage. If I know the left image is to be scaled by 85%, then I can easily do the same to the right image. Easy in Photoshop, a calculator needed in Designer. I could crop the pictures to the same size before I start scaling, but I’m one of those nerds who like the edges of the frame in the picture. I really don’t want to crop before I have the 3D image working to how I want it.

 

A handy hint I’ll share - if you have an iPad, then you can use that as a second screen. You can get apps to make an iPad a second screen, but you can also VNC to access your Mac via the iPad. Your stereo image displayed on the screen on the iPad will work well with cross eyed viewing or those little stereo lorgnette lenses you can get. No need to zoom your image much, if at all. The iPad does the work for you. I expect if you have an Android tablet, a VNC client on that will do the same job.

 

I do have a gallery of some of my stereo images - http://www.worldofpaul.com/stereocards/viewer.html - this is designed for iPad viewing using lenses or the Owl viewer from the London Stereoscopic Company (the card sizes are designed to fit in the aperture at the back of these viewers). I recently added an option for cross-eyed viewing because some people were asking for it. I find that and parallel free viewing hard to do, so I tend to use lenses. There are also some scans of stereo photos I found at an antiques shop. Most pictures were taken with a Fuji camera, but a couple of sets were taken with the Wray (you can probably guess which are which from the image quality).

 

Good call on the copyright message - I really need to add those to my photos. This is a hobby I’ve slowly fallen into - I know there’s a lot more out there than I have knowledge of. I tend to think stereo image is “right” if I don”t have to fight to see the 3D effect, but I am becoming increasingly aware that there is a lot of theory behind making a 3D image work. I really need to read up on that.

[MaxClass]

HariyDalek,

 

I mastered the art of parallel viewing  40 years ago so that is no problem for me unless the images are to far apart but then I can just back up a ways which would only be required if the images are large. I do have the lorgnette lenses which I use for viewing on two iPhones as they are just the right size.

 

My favorite choice for large images is the “3-D Inlife Stereoscope” that runs aroud $30.00 US. It has front surface mirrors to avoid ghosting and the side mirrors are adjustable with a dial on the top to widen or narrow the viewing separation. It also has closable sliding doors over the front mirrors to keep them clean. Even novice viewers can easily use them to view larger images.

 

AD seems to make it really easy to import L & R images, place them and export them as JPEG’s. I’ve include one below taken big in the Sierra Nevada mountains near June lake to give you an idea. This image was taken with iPhones. I have hundreds that are this quality.

 

I also use iPhoto 7.1.5 (not the newest) because it allows me to put my images into iPhoto and name with with “Name-L” and Name-R” (example) so they end up side by side in iPhoto. Then you just select both images in iPhoto and press “command-option-f” and both images will appear side by side on the screen for full size viewing on my 24” iMac. People that view them just say WOW. It really blows them away. The next upgrade to iPhoto dropped the ability to view images side by side. Don’t know why they did that.

 

The one Stereo book I have is “The World of 3-D, A practical guide to stereo photography by Jac. G. Ferwerda”.

 

Just about anything you would want to know about Stereo imaging can be found there.

 

If I had any advice from my experiences it would be to always make sure the horizon is as dead level as you can get it. I have play around with different ways of actually tilting the cameras slightly inward for real closeups but there is a limit to even that because of parallax effect that can make it almost impossible to visually sync the images in the mind. There is what they call the 1:30 Rule. No closer that 30 times the separation of the lenses but even that can be broken. I have also played with hyper-stereo where the lens separation is increased for far and distant shots. If you do that for up close images the visual effect sort of messes with the mind because it is something the mind is not used to dealing with.

 

Max

 

P.S. Where are you located world wise?

 

I could not attach the image but will try in the next post when I figure out how to do it.

 

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[Raskolnikov]

I suggested one possible solution here to the scaling with percentage.

https://forum.affinity.serif.com/index.php?/topic/1173-scaling-bitmaps-and-vector/&p=4944

[HairyDalek]

MaxClass - I’m based in the UK, in Essex.

 

I presume this is the viewer you mention: http://www.3dinlife.com/english/Products/3DViewer.html

 

I found others on the web, but their shipping costs to the UK are insane - usually at least doubles the price of the item - so that‘s a no go at the moment. I may buy some small mirrors and try to make my own. Nothing like a bit of experimentation.

 

Raskolnikov - yes - anything that helps like that would be useful. I am rather surprised that scaling information is omitted.

[MaxClass]

HairyDalek,

 

So your in Essex. I should have picked up on the accent earlier. You can add that to your profile.

 

The viewer you gave a link to is not the one I have but it appears that it would work just fine as long as the mirror angles can be adjusted for varying photo separations. This is the one I have: http://www.berezin.com/3d/viewers1.htm   (3DS 3DScope $31.95 US) + Shipping.

 

I like having the dust covers that slide over the front mirrors plus I keep it in a plastic sleeve when not in use to keep it clean.

 

Over 20 years ago I build my own make from four mirrors as a square tube made from “Foam Core” art board. Still works well as it is the exact separation for my 24" monitor. If I can figure out how to add photos to these posts I will post a photo of it along with a sample Stereo Image from my collection.

 

Max

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[HairyDalek]

Max - unfortunately, I don't have a real, proper Essex accent (which is in decline, though I have heard it in the wild). I sound like I come from North London - which is pretty much where I grew up.

 

I've asked the Berezin site for shipping rates on that viewer you mentioned. I'll see what they charge before I decide whether to buy. I may have to have a go at making something anyway - sounds like an interesting project.

[MaxClass]

Okay, since I can’t seem to get a direct answer as to the correct procedure for posting an image I will ask it here.

 

Raskolnikov, you post images on this forum. How do you do it. I feel helpless in this regard.

 

Max

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[Raskolnikov]

Raskolnikov, you post images on this forum. How do you do it. I feel helpless in this regard.

 

I upload it to a image hoster in internet... an then copy/paste the direccion i obtain there, here.

[MaxClass]

In other words, if I don’t have an image hosted, which I do not, then I can't post images, right?

 

Unless I hear otherwise I’ll that that law. Thanks

 

Max

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[MaxClass]

Raskolnikov and HairyDalek,

 

MEB just posted a procedure to include graphics (under “Thumbnails, How to post them) without having to have an external hosted so I am going to try it out by posting a one Stereo that I put together in Affinity Designer that I promised in an earlier post.

 

If you open the file in AD you can scale it to whatever size you need to view it in Stereo. This is just one of hundreds in my stereo library.

 

Max

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[MaxClass]

Hey, it worked.

 

Max

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[HairyDalek]

Hey, it worked.

 

Max

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Well done! I’ll look at that on my iPad later - the screen size will be ideal with the lenses I have at the moment.

 

I got some kind of reply from the Berezin people. Apparently, there’s a shipping calculator somewhere on their site. I’ll look into that later today.

[MaxClass]

Hairy,

 

I did notice that the Lily File ended up being a much lower resolution than the original. Thought that odd.

 

At screen size I see pixillation in the file I sent but not in the original. Other formats made the file huge. Each original image is over 2 MB.

 

Max

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[marlonbishop]

Please add a dedicated percentage box immediately, the workflow is too slow and cumbersome without it

[Ben]

Add a dedicated percentage box where?

[aitte]

@Ben:

 

Every resize/transform panel. But the resize document/resize canvas may be the most important place. It's quite common to make a document 200% as large. I used to do the math mentally on the pixel values until I saw this thread and the "*=200%" thing. The function multiplier approach is really cool but doesn't replace the need for a real percentage adjustment.

 

Imagine that you have a 1040 pixel wide image, you "*=200%" to make it 2080px. But your transform/resize panel doesnt tell you that you have gone 200% larger. It just says 2080 pixels. You have to remember the original and do the math. Now imagine that you also do *=150%. If this was a proper percentage slider you could see that it's a total of 300% (50% extra on 200% is 300%) larger than the original and that you are doing an even multiplication. In the pixel display you have to do that math in your head to figure out if your scaling is an even percentage. The pixel display would show 3120 pixels... You would have to remember that the original was 1040 pixels and bring out a calculator to check if it's still an even multiple.

 

So dedicated percentage display please...