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Jaffa

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Everything posted by Jaffa

  1. I don't think that this is an option, is it? Have checked through the video tutorials etc and cannot see anywhere. Is there a workaround perhaps?
  2. Hi Dan, most of my work does not need rasterizing, so unfortunately you are saying that there isn't a simple way around. I rarely use "place" and therefore Smart Objects. Thanks for the feedback though.
  3. Hi Ian, I hope that my suggestion is too basic, nevertheless, I recall that when I first started the selection brush happened to be in the "subtract" option. Simply switching on the toolbar above to "add" solved the problem. This happened many times before I "cottoned on".
  4. Up to now, Ian. I have had no significant problems. Later. choose my image to be utilised by Affinity Photo. From memory - jpeg, Though I should consider TIFF. Hope that helps!
  5. Hi Fixx, seems I should have explained myself better. I mean that if I save what I have done the first day, including the crop, then next day open the Affinity file again then the original data before the crop is available. I tried this a short while ago and that does not happen. Would be very glad to be proved wrong!
  6. Just about every day I am opening up "Layers" from the Studio by going to View>Studio, then I want "History" and repeat the process. Is there any way that I can leave the Studio open until I have ticked the items I want, instead of this repeating? I have looked through the Manual and for Studio it shows 22 entries - I may have missed how to do it, but doubt that!
  7. Hi RC-R, it's not just when I have a new session, I can have Layers and History open for one photo, then later when that photo is closed I open another photo and the Layers and History are not there - and I have not closed those panels. This is in the same session and I go into Studio thinking that - maybe they are there and perhaps hidden behind another window - but they are unticked! It is certainly not screen size because I use two monitors, one for the program and the larger (about 550 mms) for the image.
  8. I have been creating many standard layers and child layers - it seems forever. However, one thing I have taken for granted up to now is that I am creating Child Layers in the correct way. However, have just realised that Windows Affinity Photo shows a small perpendicular line and that seems to be the normal way to achieve it. The way I have been doing it is to drop the adjustment layer into the blue line that does not extend all the way to the left, my image re-inforces what I mean. My overall question therefore is - what is the difference between using the "partial" blue horizontal line and the small blue vertical line? (Note: I fully realise that the "full" blue horizontal line is used to create a parent or standard layer).
  9. Many thanks for your responses, RC-R and Alfred. I have watched the video tutorial a couple of times and now understand. What confused me at first, was that I wondered how I had managed fine, so far. However James Ritson, explains that at the end when he says that both the clipping and masking work the same when you are dealing with adjustment layers, etc. It is just in situations I don't really encounter at this stage, that the difference is crucial.
  10. Just yesterday I wanted to have two images at a bigger size, in fact I practically doubled them in size in Affinity Photo. I did not expect it to work too well and had in mind to use ON1 instead. However, whilst I may have just been lucky with the particular images that I was working with, the results, to my eye, were excellent. I have not seen any mention made of this with Affinity and wonder about others experiences?? Of course the traditional way is to enlarge 10%, save, enlarge another 10%, save, etc, but I did not even need to do that.
  11. Hi firstdefence The two documents were 1st started at 1620 x 1079 -- resized to 3243 x 2160 2nd started at 1056 X 1080 -- resized to 2112 X 2160 In Affinity - Export (from File Menu) I chose Bicubic and obviously 100% quality. At our club they will be viewed and assessed using a 4K projector. I have viewed at 100% on my LG (TA) monitor at home. .
  12. I love the noise reduction in Affinity Photo. Just recently I used 395% on a girl's face and it worked beautifully. Now we all know that in practice you can only have 100%, so the scale must be different in some way. What is 100% based on in Affinity Photo? Is that the measure to which some other programs can only reach to? When I am singing the praises of Affinity Photo to others how do I explain this?
  13. Many thanks for your very helpful explanations. RC-R - I am saving your comments on a file on my PC for reference whenever necessary.
  14. I know what a smart object is and why, for instance, "Place" is used in Photoshop Elements. However, as I understand it, Affinity Photo images are all smart objects, therefore I am confused as to why it is necessary to have a "Place" option in the menu? There must be a use for it, so I am keen to understand what it is.
  15. ... or just "Open" instead, Fixx? Why do people "like" to place images, why a seemingly unnecessary step?
  16. To give a small example - I edit an image and, at a minimum, I have open the Layers panel and the History panel. Next day, I want to edit an image and open it up. The Layers Panel usually shows, but the History Panel is not there. How peculiar that I have to then go View>Studio>History. Seems bizarre, because I would have thought that Affinity Photo would open up with the panels you have previously used as default. Is there something I can do please?
  17. Yes, Walt, it is not the actual history I am talking about, you are right. Logic tells me that most, if not all, users would like a minimum of panels viewable immediately upon starting to edit a new document. I would like Layers, Channels, History, Colours - indeed, any panel that I used with the previously edited document. To go into Studio for the ones missing seems a terrible waste of time to me!
  18. I want to do some dodging and burning. As a first step I added a pixel layer, then went to Edit>Fill and from the Colour Wheel drop down box chose Greyness. Next I changed the greyness to 50% grey. Finally I changed the Blend Mode for the new pixel layer to Overlay. From there I should have been able to carry on my task (which I have done before and which is shown in Vimeo video tutorials - James Ritson "Affinity Photo - Non Destructive Dodge & Burn".) However the problem was that my main image appeared far too dark - it should show not much differently than before. I suspect something wrong with the selecting of greyness. On James' video 50% shows about the middle of the scale, however on my Affinity 50% showed as much more to the left of the scale. I could move it right, however this is an instance where a precise 50% is crucial. Help please!
  19. When I want to view images quickly I have always used Irfanview, which is great, except that in some situations, where I want to view an Affinity Photo file, outside of Affinity Photo, it cannot recognise it. I was told by someone that Faststone can view Affinity files, but I have just tried and so far it refuses to recognise them. Is there someway that I can get Faststone to do this, or is there another program I could use for the purpose?
  20. Many thanks for the replies, guys! However, just had another go and worked out where I was going wrong. Sure, on the scale, I did enter 50 - however it is not a percentage scale, it goes up to 255 (of course!). Duh!
  21. Sorry to hijack your post and thread, Juan, however it seems that your question has been answered. I am intrigued by the comment above "select the object in the canvas", how do you use the canvas in this way? Perhaps you mean that the background layer or a merge visible layer is the canvas? Otherwise how do you do this? Cheers, Jim
  22. Hi Walt Sounds great! Have had a look through the Edit>Preferences and cannot yet see where/how to do this. Can you give me a pointer or two please. If it is "Save thumbnails with documents", then that is already ticked. Jim
  23. Thanks, v_kyr - Unfortunately, XnView MP is not free. Have had a look at ACDSee and it seems that it may only show thumbnails, whilst I want to look at the images at 100% (and often above that). Will keep researching, including having a closer look at AlternativeTo.
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