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  1. Hopefully some one can help. I am trying to get a much better all round understanding of 'Colour Profile & Colour Format'. When I open a new RAW Image, I see, along with all the other sliders and adjustments at the bottom is a icon for Profiles ~ When I check this box, it shows ~ Output Profile - sRGB 1EC61966-21 and, if I open up the box, there are a hole host of other profiles with names and numbers (including one, which I have calibrated for my iMac using an i1Studio calibrator). I have seen or read that a much better profile to use is one with a Larger Gamut such as ~ ProPhoto RGB or ROMM RGB. So, at this point am I better to leave it with the sRGB 1EC61966-21 or should I switch the profile to either my latest i1Studio calibrated version? ~ or ~ use as suggested, either the ProPhoto RGB or ROMM RGB.? If I then switch to any of these New / Different profiles, whilst I'm in the Develop Persona, do I have to switch-back-later-on to the sRGB 1EC61966-21 before I print? And, if that's the case… How do I go about this? Normally when I've finished editing an image I go File ⇢New⇢ a 'New Document' dialogue box appears and because I am unsure what to enter in the Colour Format or Colour Profile boxes shy away and just check that the size of paper is correct and click okay. (My bad I know) My prints to date are always slightly disappointing and so perhaps a better understanding of 'Colour Profiles & Colour Formats'. Will help get me to where I should already be. Hopefully someone out there can guide me through this latest post processing maze.
  2. Hello ~ CedarHouse… As one of the many, many Club amateur photographers I was very interested to see/read your above problem. You see, like you, I too use DS Colour Labs. So, I'm wondering if you ever found a 'Best Way' ~ or a ~ 'Step-by-step Workflow' to your original problem ~ of having an image, working on it in AP, then… when satisfied with how it looks, selecting a finished size and then sending it off to DS Colour Labs? (using their one of their profiles i.e. DC-Colour-labs-Frontier-Lustre.icc) and getting back an actual real life print that matched up with what you had on screen. Hopefully you can share as I'm dammed if I can figure it out.
  3. Wow! RC-R - yet again… 'everything is there when you know where to look for it' ~ much'o thanks
  4. Thanks for getting back to me and setting it out in step format . I'll give it a go as soon as i can and report back ~ Thanks Hiya Carl 123 ~ this is my report back thingy ~ I managed to successfully remove the two peep's on the left and even succeeded in cloning the other two plus the jogger over to almost the same position as you did. The only odd thing that happened was when I started to use the erase brush all was working well but then as I came out to the edge of the cloned circle another two person part of an image started to appear! I faffed around and after a helluva lot of faffing I managed to tidy it all up. So yes it worked and I'm veers thankful but I just can't figure out why another image started to appear as I was erasing the outlined clone part. Perhaps I did something twice? A Big Big thanks for walking me through the how to do ~ I'll practice some more on other images and try to see where the hiccup hides.
  5. In the image attached I would like to delete the two people on the left and then somehow copy the ones on the right and move them into a position slightly left of center. Can anyone advise me 'step by step' of how to go about this please as i'm sure once mastered, I'll be able to use it in other images too
  6. Carl123 ~ Thanks -Thanks & Thanks again! and not only that even bigger thanks for showing me the photo it is so, so close to what I have in mind and I will follow your workflow as best as I can. I'm hoping to do a similar thing to the lips and chin area. ~ Digbydo says thanks again
  7. I would like to distort some portrait images in a kinda weird-ish way. The way I have it in my mind is as if the images were melting, you know like candle wax running down the side of a bottle or like ink which has come into contact with water and the image is partially distorted. Is this possible and if so what is the best way to go about it? ~ Much'O Thanks in advance.
  8. I would like to know what is the 'best work flow practice' to adopt for any average image or an image, which needs very little post production. I want to take this so-called 'average image' and crop it to a finial print size of 12in x 8in. Then I'd like to send it off to an online printer ( DS colour labs/photobox etc; etc;) in a jpeg format, & using/ indicating the same paper that they the online printers will print on & ideally… I would also like to include a 12mm White or Black border all around the finial average image. I have watched some AP tutorials but nothing appears to cover what is the best practice from the very beginning right through to the end and, I'm not sure whether I should start off with a 12 x 8 canvas size or just the image itself. Hopefully someone will be able to help as at the moment I cannot seem to get the correct sizing nor the information for the printing set up correctly.
  9. Doh! slaps self on forehead ~ Thanks toltec ~ easy when you know how - Huh?
  10. Thanks for your reply MBd but the lights in question are not 'Blow Out' they are just a bit too bright for my liking & so, I want to dim or defuse them in some way so as they are no so harsh. They look good in the image but because they are a little bit too bright your eye is drawn to that all the time.
  11. I have several shots taken late at night however sometimes the shots are ruined by a big bright street lights or a lamp of some sort. To crop them out would, in most cases, be useless so is there a way I can soften or dim the brightness down a little I was thinking of using a gradient, but perhaps there are other ways to tackle the problem any ideas hints or tips would go a long, long way ~ Fanks!
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