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MikekPhoto

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About MikekPhoto

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    Member

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  • Website URL
    http://www.mikekirwan.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Walnut Creek California
  • Interests
    Professional Photographer
  1. MikekPhoto

    TIFF from a scanned negative

    I regularly scan negatives color & black & white using my Epson V700. I scan negatives for both archival and current production. Yes I still shoot medium and large format film and mostly print digitally. I have worked over many years developing my workflow which starts in the camera. For color & black white negatives I scan using the Epson software that came with the scanner. It is pretty good if set correctly. For negatives or transparencies it is important than the shadows and highlights are not clipped. On every scan after preview and selecting the image I bring up the Histogram and make sure the output is set to around 10 for the shadow and 240 for the highlights. This can result in a flatter scan but easily corrected in post. I scan the image as 16 bit RGB tiff (even if it is a black & white image). This ensures I have plenty of leeway in making adjustments in post. This can result in really big files, especially scanning 4x5, 5x7 and 8x10 negatives. But you can always reduce the file size later. I then open the image in Adobe Camera RAW, heresy in the forum but near with me. For color scans I first set the white balance, then set my black point by holding the Shift Key and double clicking the black slider. I use the same technique to set the white point. Now I will adjust all the controls to fine tune as pessary, exposure, highlights, shadows, white and black adjustments until my image is where I want it. I have found the noise controls in ACR to be pretty good in reducing, noise and grain - but only small changes are needed - grain is a natural part of the image. I have tried keeping my workflow totally within AP but not there yet. Wish there was an Affinity Camera RAW. For new work, especially black & white I start my process in the camera. Making sure that I get an good exposure, normally I set my important shadow detail at Zone IV (which is one stop over) and use a highly compensating developer, usually Divided D-23 which ensures good detail in both the important shadow and highlight areas. The development times for most of the films I use is 4 mins in Bath A and 4 mins in Bath B. The short development times ensures minimal grain even with fast films and due to the dilution the acutance is pretty good as well. The resulting negative contrast is reduced, but can easily be adjusted in post. With this technique most of my scans do not require anything more than a Curves Tweak. Couple of examples - First a color scan of a 35mm Kodachrome Slide taken around 1984... The second a black & white scan from a 4x5 negative Cheers - MK
  2. I did send an email to support with the download link at the time of my my post. But that link has probably expired so will send again later today. Cheers Mike
  3. MikekPhoto

    AD New Take on Multi-Page Documents

    Well I have and tried all the settings and cannot find a way to do this. So maybe you can point me in the right direction? Here is my scenario which I somewhat described in my original post. I have two Affinity Designer Files Open. The design is for a two page flyer. Affinity Image 1 is the front page, Affinity Image 2 is the rear (back page). Needs to be printed double sided and my Commercial Print Shop wants a single two page PDF. I cannot find any settings where I can specify create PDF export from the currently open files Note Files not File I know I can export a PDF from a single open file. So if you know of a way to do this I am all ears. My current solution is to export the files as Photoshop images. Open them both in Photoshop and use File/Automate/PDF Presentation and check use open image. That creates a multi-page PDF - great, my job is done. But I don't want to use Photoshop, I want to use only Affinity Products. Yes I have tried using Art Boards, but very time consuming and I have struggled to get Art Board that gives me the exact dimensions with bleed. Art boards I am guessing were not designed to handle print jobs but UI design for the web and mobile solutions. Much more efficient to be able to export a multi-page PDF from open files in Designer. Thanks MK
  4. Reading the AD forums regarding the ability to create multi-page documents is unlikely to happen as this would be a feature for Publisher when it is released. But what about the ability to export to PDF docs that are open in Designer to create a multi-page document. I am working on a two sided and four sided spread and while building each page in Designer is relatively simple, getting the PDF's created for the print shop is a regal pain. But if there was a PDF export option where would select "all open file" that would do the job as well as not infringing too deeply on the Publisher design goals. The same logic could also be applied to Photo as well. Possibility? MK
  5. Not sure if this will work for AP/AD but in System Preferences for the Mac you can change the scroll direction, and on Windows 10 with Microsoft Mouse & Keyboard Center under advanced options you can change the direction. Maybe this will work for you? MK
  6. MikekPhoto

    blend ranges window position

    +1 for this/ Can we add persistence for the position of the Window - remembers where we placed it the next time it os opened MK
  7. I have the Intous Pro Small and use it on both Mac & Windows systems for AP/AD as well as other graphic applications. I have found the wireless connection to work as well as running the Tablet wired. I have a pretty busy studio and my desktops can get really cluttered with all sorts of cabling for image/video/audio capture so having the ability to eliminate a cable is a god send. It also nice to be able to lean back in my chair in a more relaxed mode, put my feet up and be able to retouch a portrait without having a cable draped over my feet :) I find the internal battery lasts a long time. When I have finished for the day I just plug it into a USB charger so it is fully charged for the next day. MK
  8. There is something squirrely with this image file. In MAC Finder the preview looks great. Opening with AP 1.5.1 using the AP RAW Engine the file looks terrible and not much can be done. Opening in Adobe Camera RAW - image looks great. So given Finder preview looks good, went into AP and changed the RAW engine from AP to Apple. Restarted AP and went to open the image. Immediate crash in AP Tried this a couple of time all with the same crash. Not sure why using Apple RAW would cause AP to crash with this file, while the AP RAW just shows a really bad image but does not crash the application. Let me know if you need the crash dump...... Cheers MK
  9. Using AP 1.5.1 Step to reproduce. Open image turn off Mesh and leave unchecked Close image Open new image Mesh is shown even if show Mesh box is unchecked Enable Mesh, then uncheck and Mesh is hidden Cheers MK
  10. In my quest to ditch a well known Photo program I decided to use AP Photo to process a series of paintings for a local artist. I always start by including an X-Rite color patch with each painting to be photographed. I use this to set the white balance and if needed a custom camera profile. My question, with Adobe RAW the White Balance tool gives me a temperature of 4500 with a +5 tint, whereas the White balance sampled with AP 1.5.1 gives me a temperature of 6580 with a 41% tint. AP 1.5.1 gives a much lighter exposure than ACR (which is easily fixed) but at a loss to explain why there is such a difference in color temperature. I would have thought they would have been the same or pretty close? Cheers MK
  11. Well, you should be able to fix this in camera with your flash. What you need is a diffuser on your flash which will give you wrap around lighting as well as not having the flash directly hitting the eyes. Same technique for eliminating red eye. For informal images I use a Gary Fong diffuser, works very well it raises the light above the lens and gives really nice wrap around lighting- tad over priced for what it is but pays for itself in not having to eliminate eye problems in post. For more formal shots I use a small translucent umbrella either shooting through the umbrella or bouncing light into it. The trick is not to have the point light source directly over the lens. Attached is a shot of my adopted pooch using a Nikon Flash and translucent umbrella..... No pet eye :) Hope this helps
  12. I am running an iMac Retina 5K 27 -inch with Intel Core i5 with 24 GB memory with a regular spinning hard drive and both Designer & Photo fly. It came with 8GB of Mac memory then added and additional 16 GB of third party memory (OWC) and what a difference that extra 16 GB made. This set up was an upgrade from my Mac Mini. I am hooked on large monitors and love the screen real estate; and if one of our Windows machines is idle will connect a second 27" monitor to enable applications to run side by side at full screen. My most useful accessories are: Wacom Pro (Smal) tablet for detailed photo editing and portrait retouching Two Fast external hard drives a 4TB drive for backup and an 8TB drive for media storage, my video projects just chew through disk space x-rite i1 Pro Color Profiler I have had this set up for about six months now and loving every day. Which is good as I usually spend 5+ hours editing. Hope this helps in your decision making MK
  13. Just an FYI, but pulling together some system info related to the Bug I posted about AP RAW and the Pentax 645Z. Right clicking an image in Adobe Bridge and selecting AP to open the file - Bridge tells me it is version 1.5.2 - but right clicking in Finder to open it shows as 1.5.1 which matches About AP. Same for Designer, Adobe Bridge is telling me I have version 1.5.8 whereas I have 1.5.4 installed No big deal but wonder how Adobe figures this stuff out :) Cheers MK
  14. running the latest store version of AP and processed a few RAW images from my Pentax 645Z. Opening an image you see, on the long side, a white line at one end and a black line at the other. Only happens on the longest side regardless of whether the image is in landscape or portrait mode. Tested with the Apple RAW engine and the images are fine. More than pleased to provide some sample images if this will help resolve the problem. Running AP 1.5.1 Mac 5k Retina el Cap 10.11.6 (15G1212) Cheers MK
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