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ProDesigner

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Everything posted by ProDesigner

  1. No worries @IsabelAracama. I think there's something about how the forum stores or links to mp4's. So it's not you. Hope you have success.
  2. Admittedly I've not been able to access your mp4, so I hesitate to try to help, but here goes with some general advice. I've extensively used what Affinity are calling a contour tool in the past, and these things below can cause issues - speaking generally. Basically - complexity in the paths: Path where there's nodes sitting on top of each other, duplicated (and worse, when they only overlap slightly). Booleaning often adds these. Too many nodes. There'll be a crash threshold where there's just too many that'll depend on the memory of your kit and how big the file size is in other respects. There is a simplify path feature, though I've found it rather crude compared to other apps. Sections of paths with lots of nodes clustered closely together (kind of the same as above, but only sections of the path involved) Paths that loop back on themselves too (difficult to describe, but you'll know if you inspect close-up and see a teeny-tiny loop or three.). Reversing the direction of the path sometimes helps too (I believe you can do that - in Designer - think I saw it in passing.. might be wrong) Also, your settings can be an issue (too big a jump, or too many jumps). You might have to do it in stages.. but the above should sort most things out. All the above can take some hunting down. You need to zoom-in. If you've drawn your path, then it should be fairly clean, depending on how much booleaning (add, subtract etc.) you've done. I'd counsel you to still check it over. If it's imported... hum, beware = Messy complex paths R Us. If it's a traced path = same as above. Zoom-in, have a really good inspect, simplify and clean-up. Be nit-picky and pedantic about having really clean paths is my counsel -> "Craft your path"! Also, last, if you're doing it in what's already a complex file... perhaps copy and paste it outside, do the contour operation in a new document, and then paste it back in. Hope I've helped. Apologies if the mp4 shows something I've not covered and I'm wide of the mark.
  3. Just adding to an olde thread - incase someone picks this up. I use text frame insets as an easy way to position text elements using snap.. a lot. You set up an inset of say 3mm, then snap the text frame to the edge of the page or image confident the text is 3mm away from it. I'm not sure how many people are advance [cough] enough to have figured out how much of a boon this is. See attached illustations (from Adobe InDesign and Designer). (I'm in here searching for how to specify an inset and don't believe I've found the answer yet.). Really hoping being able to inset the text frame is possible in Designer (as well as all the others).. or it'll be glum face time. EDIT: Found answer. Currenlty (as at 4 Mar 2021), you pop into publisher. Set up a text frame with an inset. The copy the text frame into Designer. The inset is then fixed, but you can clone the text box and use... not the most sophisticated caper, but workable. Fingers crossed this is introduced into Designer where text is often labelling something.
  4. Hello @Estalfos I'm going to disappoint you on this one I'm afraid. I've not really spent any time at all constucting custom brushes in Designer, thus far. Hopefully someone else has, and will pop along here out of curiosity soon. I suggest you add some more tags such as "custom brushes", "brushes" to this thread, as it might increase the chances of them landing here,.... possibly. I've not put much time into searching the forums, or read the below, so don't know if it helps. It links to another thread as well so hopefully one of the two will answer your question. Perhaps it's a place to start (You may have already checked it out of course). A quick scan suggests it's no good for creating objects which need a fill, but I don't think you need to do that. I've looked at the help, briefly and nothing jumps out though I have a couple of thoughts if the above isn't what you need. I've followed this thread and will observe with interest. I'll offer anything I can if it's any chance of being valuable. Best of luck with it @Estalfos, hope you have success here. Sorry I can't offer more right now.
  5. Forgive the silly questions, but I’m trying to eliminate the obvious. When you exported it from the Windows version, what was the pixel by pixel dimensions of the png? I assume you’ve checked the version exported from the iPad is the same pixel by pixel dimensions? And to follow-up on @Bradly’s post. Why are you exporting to png out of interest? Why is pdf not allowed here? Pdf is the more usual file format for print graphics.. which the size of what you’ve posted here suggests it’s for.
  6. Thank you everyone for contributing. Really interesting. I'm learning all the way. Basically, from what I've read here, and with my own experimenting informed by what I've read here, the rulers (as @GarryP indicated) only labels the grid (when they happen to align). The rulers do not contribute to snapping at all. @h_d's key suggestion of Unticking "Only snap to visible" led me to gain an insight to this. Even then you need 'Snap to Grid' on because that what it's doing. Basically there are too many levers to pull here in my view: Screen tolerance Grid divisions (settings) Zoom Plus.. an ever present danger of misaligned rulers and grid, even by a fraction of a millimetre which could be dangerous for precise work (if rarely). Good heads-up there by @Old Bruce on ways to sort it. I've mucked about with it all, and sort-of achieved what I needed. Here's my recipe: Small enough grid divisions (20) + minimum screen tolerance (3) + grid & ruler aligned = workable ruler-esque snapping zoomed out. Doesn't feel very satisfactory to me. I agree with @loukash, this is definitely a feature request. For quick and accurate guide placement, why the heck ignore the snapping possibilities of the ruler? Thank you everyone - great team effort! Really helpful of you all, thanks for taking the time. Appreciated. ---------------- Fascinating creative thinking by @v_kyr, btw... Serif should check out the ruler Apple have introduced to Mark-up, because this is what @v_kyr has pointed the way to. What a useful on-the-fly tool. I recommend Serif look at it as a built-in feature.
  7. I'm trying to snap a guide to exactly 30 cm using the ruler. Looking in the snap settings, nothing suggests itself as a means to do so Q: Is it possible to set snap settings so placing guides will snap to the ruler when visible? Q: If not, how do you approach it?
  8. Glad you've found it @azaazelus, that's what matters. I did say it takes time to understand it. ---------------------------------------------------------------- For clarification for anyone else reading this thread: Myself and @DM1, are referring to the same thing with "App's Sandbox" and "App's Space/memory".
  9. Hello @azaazelus I can't access your mp4, so big apologies if this is not helpful. First: you've checked your App preferences and Default Save Location? This might shine a light? --------------------------------------------- An exercise that might help you. Work through every step carefully, because this does take a bit of absorbing. Part One: Open a Designer file Document (three dots) > Save A Copy Save A Copy screen -> touch Save This should* then let you choose the Files app (You're calling it the Folder app and I assume you mean what I understand to be Files) Choose On My iPad > Affinity Designer folder (should be listed). You're now manually telling Designer where to save the file to. Having chosen the Designer folder, then Save Go into Files > On My ipad > Affinity Designer and check the file is there >>> Important: Now, because you've used Save A Copy.. the art you see in the Home screen of Affinity Designer is the original and the one in Files is another one (a copy). They are not the same. You now have two files. If you touch the file in the Files app, the one you've created using Save A Copy, do you end up with two on the home screen? Yes, should be the answer. There should be two artworks that look the same side by side. The one on the left is the copy, the one on the right is the original in the app space/memory (possibly cloud). Part Two: Rename the original one (using the menu on the home screen thumbnail) Leave it where it is until you're confident you understand what's happening and where things are stored. Work with the 'copy'. When you save this one (the copy) from either the home screen or the document menu, it will update the Files app file (You can bob out and look at the file thumbnail in Files anytime to check. You'll see the file thumbnail updates with the time it saved - if in list view) When you're confident it's all fine, Close the original (menu on home screen thumbanil) - it's then gone (unless you've a random file sitting in Cloud or wherever that you're unaware of) I then suggest, once you've got confidence with all this, you then revisit the Default Save Location setting in the app preferences if you need to. Mine is set to 'On my ipad' meaning it saves to the Files app. Save A Copy should by-pass any settings you have that are throwing you off. This whole saving files thing takes a bit of understanding. I struggled with it when I first started out. Most people I suspect just rely on default settings. ------------------------------------------- - - EDIT: I'm refering here to what's technically called the "App's Sandbox" with the phrase "App's space/memory". (I tend to stick with non-tech language, not sure it's always helpful). - - My understanding is that the iPad Affinity Apps keep the art in the App space/memory unless you choose 'Save' from the home screen or the open document (and then it uses the default location setting). The App space/memory is only visible via the Home button/screen. ------------------------------------------ A note about Cloud! *should -> The saving behaviour of Affinity Apps seems to depends on what your cloud settings are to some extent.
  10. You understand and register the little plus sign that appears against the style (in the same way it does with InDesign), I take it @kevinslimp? I know changing app environment can disorientate you, so for a time you forget things you know, if you follow -> I did!! There's that much that's new to learn. Edit for anyone trying to follow this thread: Above the question you'll see I say "Thanks everyone" which closed off my initial question as far as I was concerned. From this point, the discussion becomes about others and different questions. I found myself changing from 'asker' to 'answerer'. Nothing wrong, just confusing. The nature of forums, that's all.
  11. Ha-ha-ha, I don’t feel such a chump now. I think Guides must have been a ‘Friday afternoon coding’ exercise. That or they decided to see who could sneak the most random bit of user experience into the finished app and get away with it. The folks who did the guides won 🙃
  12. O-ooooooh for flipping ek!! The lock guides needs to be active (have a blue line round it). Confusing or wat!! Just totally wrong way round surely????
  13. According to the help you activate guides (context menu pops up ✅)... Then tap the guide... 🤔 .... should it change to a dotted red line? Can’t seem to drag it at all. The Lock Guides is not active. I’ve tried a tap-drag, a tap then drag, a long tap, a double tap... nothing. No visual feedback, no response at all. Can’t see anything in the Layers studio (I’ve unlocked them all to cover that off). What am I missing, thanks?
  14. That’s great. I should have thought of the software update possibility too., but hey, we got there. Happy creating. You’ll love vector illustration. It’s totally different to raster work, and a joy because it’s totally different. I can’t get enough of both, hence I’m here late at night (searching for how to move guides in Designer).
  15. Ok really easy. What I’ve just done: My test .abr file was in the Downloads folder within the Files app (I’ve observed location of files often seems to influence things on the iPad - might not matter here). Long press the .abr file to get the pop-up menu with Share on it. Choose share to bring up dialogue (illustrated) You’ll see ProCreate listed, like in my image attached below? Choose ProCreate - boom - imports brush. ....or it did for me. How about you?
  16. Ok, I’ll just test something out (I have both apps too, ProCreate is my all-time favourite app and has been since I got it). These are .abr files, not .brush files, so I’ve a hunch here. Back soon.
  17. Hey @Zen Assassin. So you’re definitely seeing the lines after export? If yes, then I suggest: Check if you’re exporting the image to a bigger/smaller size than is set up in your app. If yes, this can create problems. Look at the resampling settings (Bilinear, etc) and try them out. Ideally export it at same size which will mean it shouldn’t need to resample. Then if no joy, try out the other settings in the export dialogue. Could be either of these, and only methodical testing will tell you what to use.
  18. Yeah, just Save (or Save As) to the Files app. From there you can send it to the Desktop via Airdrop. I do it all the time - I never use cloud/Dropbox for this. (I keep all my files in Files anyway, because they’re safer there than sitting on the Home Screen of the apps.) _____________ You can save direct too if you’ve set up the iPad as a user on your desktop. But that’s a bit more complicated to sort out. (I just happen to have a laptop with ancient airdrop - read: incompatible.) I tend not to save direct though, because I like that it leaves a trail of back-up files in Files. Simplest is airdropping from Files.
  19. Firstly, I assume you’ve tried to import these by dragging them over the Procreate App (rather than touching the files in the Untitled Folder)? You’ve also tried a long press to bring up the menu with Open in it?
  20. How do you know it's not working? Does it not highlight? Does it highlight and then not appear on screen? Are you expecting and not seeing the keyboard pop up? (it won't, btw) You're sure you've actually got text on screen or an empty layer where it used to be? What happens? We're blind here, we can't see what's on your screen, we've no idea what you're doing, or how your artwork is structured, so can't help you without more information I'm afraid. This is a professional grade app, it's deep and nuanced and takes a long time to learn it. It also therefore requires a methodical problem solving approach to figure out when you find you struggle with things. Beware of convincing yourself it's the app.. that mindset won't help you because you'll jump to conclusions that are likely to be incorrect. We can all end up there, btw, because frustration can blind us all at times.
  21. Re: Default stroke/fill setting on pen tool Harrrr, still not sure how the behaviour above works, but I am sure I’m a numpty. There’s so many nuances to this app, it’s easy to miss what then seems obvious once you see it. I hadn’t twigged to the ‘use fill’ option staring at me in the context bar. Doh! My excuse is that it doesn’t reveal the other colour dot until you touch it, so that’s why I think I’d not registered it. This does ‘stick’ and become the tool default. Not sure if that’s what @Alfred was talking about. (So much to learn... it’s a big investment. You can totally see why the adoption of these apps by the creative industry will take some persuading.) __________________________ None of this changes my wish for quick access to my document palettes from the context bar.
  22. The layer should turn a lighter shade, the same as the illustration, after you’ve touched it (in the layers panel) - that will mean it’s selected. Does it turn a lighter shade or not? Is there a little padlock on it? Does it say ‘group’? Each thing in the list in the illustration is a "layer" so there are three in this example. The illustration shows what’s called the ‘layers studio, and what I was was referring to above. Apologies if you’ve understood all this, but we can’t get to the bottom of what the problem is without being thorough, double checking and exploring everything. Also, the more information you can supply, the better. Otherwise we’re guessing and that’s the really hard way to do it - virtually impossible for us to help in fact. If it doesn’t, try a screen shot like this above of your layers panel, it might give us a clue.
  23. I thought it was odd that the rectangle worked for both myself and @Alfred , but not for you. Glad you’ve got something workable. Phew, an interesting one. Tired-out now, going for a lie down, it is late after all.
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