Didix

Affinity "Batch Job" sound promising but seems not working. Macro is not able to record every function (for example: Gradient Tool). Generated pictures are much darker.
Using Win10 and Canon CR2 raw file.
-atlen

Of course this is a solution. However, Panasonic's method is very fast, especially for objects that do not sit around for minutes ..
 
Yes, I have seen that, but I hoped to get a recommendation whether there is a freeware that performs well.
-Didix

Also check out Bruce Williams  DT videos. He's clear, straight to the point with zero fluffing. The tuts are for those who're newbies to the app. Recommended!
This is a better link as it links to the playlist in order of creation. Bruce uploads a new tut each Monday afternoon.

@Didix I wouldn't say I've got lots of experience of DT, but I have spent time understanding what it can do. I just had a go with your raw file. I wanted to emphasise the warm golden sun, so this is my interpretation of the image. One final stage I would do would be to open it up in AP and use the inpainting tool to get rid of the cable and the lens flare as DT's spot removal tool is not that great.
I normally wouldn't do this much in DT alone, so this has been an interesting exercise.  My preferred way of working is to use DT to get a well exposed, tonally even but very flat looking image with no clipped highlights or shadows, remove any lens distortion, set the white balance and correct any colour shift and then pass that on to AP as a 16bit TIFF for any other manipulation, also making use of the Nik Collection toolset.
[Edit - just replaced image with a slightly tweaked version I prefer]
 

Everything you see in that image was done in DT (although I would not normally do it that way!)
Noise was reduced using a combination of the "Denoise (profiled)" module with very low settings and also the Equalizer module, only for chroma noise.
Sharpening and contrast was achieved with the Equalizer, Local Contrast, Tone Curve, Sharpen and High Pass modules, each one contributing only a small amount.
I have found that layering small amounts of different processes often achieves a better result that trying to do everything in one or two steps. It does take longer, but you are less likely to "break" the picture. 
I have also found that changing the blend mode of a module can make a dramatic or subtle difference to how it works.  For example I used the "average" blend mode for the Sharpen Module, but sometimes also use "darken" as well as normal, and change the opacity of the module to get the effect I want. 
If you haven't already seen Harry Durgin's videos about DT on Youtube, check them out.  They are quite long and very technical in places, but I learned a lot, many things that can be applied to lots of different editing programs, not just DT. https://www.youtube.com/user/harrydurgin/videos
No apology necessary - that sounds like an excellent three days! 

I always take jpg & raw. For 90%+ the jpg pictures are doing fine for me.
I only develop out of raw, when the camera engine didn't do a good job.
Most time (for my way of taking pictures) this is the case when there is to much dynamics in the image.
I often go hiking and early in the morning sometimes one half of a valley is lighted by the sun and the opposite is still in dark shadow.
So my main application is getting around with hi dynamics, which means getting a reasonable image out of the shadow without noise.
Well, and there is the catch where Affinity Raw falls far behind ACR (&LR). Also far behind Darktable.
Affinity does a bad job, ACR a realy good one and Darktable a reasonable good one.
I bought Affinity as a replacement for the Adobe stuff and in combination with Darktable this could become a good solution.
However, there should be a convenient way to develop an image in Darktable and then changing to Affinity as a transparent process (without saving and re-importing).
Can this be done? Any idea? What is the easiest process?
-Didix