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Everything posted by Brian_G

  1. Yes, but in your previous post you said when Topaz updated their software I'd have to re copy the plug-in files. Just recently there seems to be a Topaz update every time I launch the program, so I'd rather not have the hassle. As I said It's not a big deal and I can live with it the way it is. Thank you very much for your input.
  2. Thank you very much for the suggestions. Since Topaz seem to frequently update their software, I'm not sure I want to keep recopying the files. I've now taken some screen grabs of the plug-ins setup page to illustrate what I'm saying about the folders. None of my plug-ins are in my Program Files(x86) folder since they are all 64-bit files. I'm no expert, but I thought 64-bit files always went into the "Program Files" folder and 32-bit files were in the "Program Files(x86)" folder. I don't understand how you can install 64-bit files into the x86 program folder. This is what I see
  3. Strange. All my plug-ins are in the 64-bit programs folder. There are no Topaz plug-ins in the Programs(x86) folder. Sudden thought: I'm using Win7, are there differences with Win10? As I said, the view I have is the same as your screenshot. The only difference is I do not have a "Programs (x86)" folder, since all of my plug-ins are in the "Programs" folder. I'm not at my desktop machine at the moment so I cannot post a screenshot. All this discussion is irrelevant and does not answer my question of how I can remove the un-needed Topaz plug-ins from the plug-ins list?
  4. Thanks. That's exactly the same as I see. AFX Pro2 and CFX Pro4 are the only NIK programs that are highlighted as "Working", although all the others appear to work as well. TBH the only NIK program I ever use is Silver Efex Pro2 and that works OK, although I'm finding some of the other recent B&W conversion programs are producing results just as good as the ones I can get with Silver Efex, so I'm probably going to be using that less in future. The slightly annoying thing is, whatever Topaz program I select (like "Adjust" or "Detail") it actually opens "Topaz Studio", which also
  5. I have now got both my NIK and Topaz plug-ins working by using the Edit>Preferences>Photoshop Plugins menu. However, I'd like to streamline the interface if I can. I originally had several Topaz programs as plug-ins, but recently Topaz have unified all their software packages under the banner of Topaz Studio. When I select the Plug-ins under the "Filters" drop down in Affinity I see all my Topaz programs, including Studio. However, whichever plug-in I select it always launches Studio. What I'd like to do is delete everything that isn't "Topaz Studio" so that I can just se
  6. Yes, the "Allow unknown plugins" checkbox is ticked. I can see all my Topaz filters, but I don't seem to be able to install NIK. I have the original Google versions of NIK, and none of them will show up in Affinity. Thanks for the link to the other thread. I will study it to see if it is helpful when I have some more time.
  7. I went to the photoshop>plugins page and there was nothing listed. I've managed to add Topaz to the drop down list, but although I've been to my NIK folder, I cannot open the sub-folders in Affinity, although I can open them with Windows file viewer. So I cannot add NIK to the "Filters" drop down. I'm not sure what's going on.
  8. I only just found this Forum section so please forgive the duplicate post. I used to have NIK and Topaz available as plug-ins under the "Filters" drop down menu. I'm currently running v1.7.1.404 under Windows 7 and when I went to use Topaz, neither Topaz nor NIK now appear under the "Filters" drop down. I can still run Topaz Studio as a stand alone but I'd like it, and NIK, to appear in the Filters drop down menu. Has this been "broken" as a result of the 1.7.1 update?
  9. I previously had NIK and Topaz available as plug-ins under the "Filters" drop down menu. I just went to use Topaz and when I invoked the drop down menu, neither Topaz nor NIK were there. I can still run Topaz Studio as a stand alone program but how do I get it, and NIK, to appear under my "Filters" drop down menu? I presume this has happened following the recent 1.7 update? (I'm on Windows v1.7.1)
  10. I think not being able to see the border on all four sides is a display anomally. As I said, if I zoom in, the border is there, and it displays correctly when the image is projected, which is the main objective. Are you adding the border to the "Inside" or "Outside" (the default) of your image? If I leave it on "Outside" I don't see a border at all, so presumably I would need to increase the document size in order to make it visible? which seems a bit counter-intuitive. If I add an outside border I'd expect it to become part of my image and the size should adjust automatically. I'
  11. I want to add a 1 pixel border to my image and I find the "enlarge the canvas" or two rectangle technique rather cumbersome, espcially if you want a very narrow border. At our club, projected images must conform to a certain size, a maximum of 1400 pixels horizontally or 1050 pixels vertically. For a dark image it is often good to add a narrow (1 pixel) white border to frame the image and help it stand out. Here's how I go about it using the "Effects > Outline" command. Import jpg image into Affinity Photo. Resize to the prescribed dimensions (as above).
  12. Thanks very much for the lengthy reply. I think one of the reasons I'm a little confused is because AP offers many more options than I'm used to seeing, so I'm unsure exactly which to choose. This is exacerbated by me having experimented with different settings and become even more confused. I recently created a file to use in a club projected image competition, and when shown it was very desaturated, so I think I must have left it in ProPhoto color space instead of converting it to sRGB, which is what our club projector requires. The printing company ask that the print files are
  13. Thanks Walt, that answers one of my questions. I was uncertain if I needed to convert to sRGB and THEN apply the printer profile, or just to apply the printer profile. In Lightroom part of the file export command looks like this: So in the same menu you have the image type and the Color Space options, so under Image Format I enter JPEG and under Color Space, I enter the Printer profile (which appears on the drop down list.) This has always worked fine. I've never "Soft proofed" and the prints come back matching what I see on my monitor screen. What I want to do is produce the s
  14. It's all very well taking my comment out of context, but you are ignoring the part above it which says: "I have prepared print files many times in the past using Lightroom, which seems to be much more straightforward than Affinity. I simply export the file as sRGB with the supplied printer profile. My prints have always come back matching my screen image and I have been very happy with the results." I'm merely trying to achieve the same result using Affinity, which offers a lot more options than I'm used to seeing. Put simply, my question is: What settings do I use in Affinity Phot
  15. Thank you for the comprehensive reply, but I think you have misunderstood my problem. I have prepared print files many times in the past using Lightroom, which seems to be much more straightforward than Affinity. I simply export the file as sRGB with the supplied printer profile. My prints have always come back matching my screen image and I have been very happy with the results. I've never done any of this "Soft proofing" malarkey, and as far as I'm concerned it's not necessary. As I said, I'm attempting to give up using Adobe, and I want to carry out the same process using AP
  16. Thanks for the reply, but I'm still a little uncertain regarding Color Space. I currently do my raw development in Lightroom and then pass the result to Affinity Photo if I need any fine tuning. Lightroom operates in ProPhoto Color space, which is maintained when I start working in Affinity. When I've finished editing the ProPhoto TIFF file in Affinity, if I then save the file, it appears in the Lightroom catalog alongside the original raw file. In order to prepare the file for printing, I assume I must then convert it to sRGB before applying the printer profile? I cannot just app
  17. I'm sure many other people also have a problem understanding color space. I am preparing a batch of photos to be printed commercially. The printing company I am using (DSCL) ask that the files be submitted in sRGB color space. When reviewing the files I note that most of them are in sRGB IEC61966-2.1 color space, which is how they were saved. However, I have one file whose color profile is called "sRGB built-in" What is the difference between these two sRGB profiles, and should I re-export the file with the "sRGB built-in" profile using the sRGB IEC61966-2.1 profile? The p
  18. Thanks very much for the extra details. I had seen the "Float" command but was unsure how to use it. As a new user I'll have to spend more time becoming more familiar with these features. One of my dislikes of Photoshop was the awful User Interface, but most commands were accessible through the menus. It would appear that AP has a less cluttered UI, but as a result, there are more "hidden" menu commands. Not better or worse, just different. The key is understanding the differences - I'll get there eventually!.
  19. Thank you for that Walt. I didn't know that dragging the tab opened a new window.
  20. I have a similar problem. I wish to display two images side by side in Affinity Photo for comparison. In most programs there is an option under "Windows" to "Tile Vertically" or "Tile Horizontally" to compare two (or more) images. I cannot even see a "Separated Mode" option in my Affinity Photo (v1.6.4.104) ?
  21. Thanks very much. Yes - Opacity, I couldn't think of the correct term! I didn't have a problem with individually colouring and setting Opacity to each shape as I drew them. I then grouped them and applied the Blending mode I wanted, and if necessary adjusted the Opacity individually As I said, I need more practice at all of this, but I have achieved the result I wanted. I suspect, as with Photoshop, there is more than one way to create the desired result.
  22. Thank you for the link explaining lines and shapes. I obviously need to spend some more time practicing this subject and I was initially in a bit of a hurry. I have a tutorial on what I'm trying to do in PS, and I'm trying to apply it in Affinity, so there are differences in technique. I cannot group the shapes, since each one is filled with a different colour and density, although the Blend Mode is the same.
  23. OK. Back again. I've managed to do what I wanted, but I'm not sure if it was by accident or design. I drew my outline using the pen tool and then filled it with colour, one shape at a time. This worked fine and I now have all the shapes I wanted. What I was originally trying to do was draw ALL the outlines first and then, having drawn them, fill them with colour. Doing them one by one seems like a slightly long-winded method, since in Photoshop you can draw all the outlines, save them as a separate layer and then work on them as much as you want. Two things I did want to ask
  24. Yes, I am drawing the whole path in one operation. The first two or three times I use the tool, everything works fine, I can see the path and the path nodes, but when I reach the fourth or fifth outline I see the initial starting node, but as I continue adding nodes they don't show up and the path also dissappears, making it very difficult to close the shape. How do I ensure the path I'm drawing has a stroke applied? I'm not turning the path into a selection, so no "marching ants," I'm creating a vector shape to fill with colour.
  25. Thanks to everyone for their replies so far, I'm learning some good stuff here. I had said previously that I was using the pen tool to outline my selection, so the modes of the "Freehand" tool are irrelevant. If it is of any help, what I'm trying to do is selectively colour specific areas of a photograph, using a different colour in each selection. I've been experimenting and I've found that I can simply outline the shapes I need with the pen tool. Once I've drawn an outline, I need to fill it with colour. I can do this by drawing and filling one outline at a time, so thats
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