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Everything posted by pipkato

  1. Thanks firstdefence. I'm going to do some more experimentation with selection tools in general. I did manage to get 'Refine Selection' to display, but still don't know how. My image is an old relatively flat black and white shot. But I think I can learn a lot from trying the various methods advised above. If I draw a complete blank I might post it here. Thanks again.
  2. One final quick question. I just tried the 'Select/Refine edges' suggestion but 'Refine Edges is greyed out. My image is in black and white. Is that the reason, or should I have done something before the 'Select/Refine Edges' command? Thanks!
  3. Thank you all very much for all that great advice - Toltec, FirstDefence, Smadell. I'll give those methods a try. It's great to know there are so many alternatives. Thanks again!
  4. I have some people against some white walls and would like to be able to mask them and make the white wall whiter and cleaner. Can't seem to find out how in the tutorials. Can someone suggest a way for a relative novice? Thanks!
  5. Thanks to everyone who offered great suggestions. I tried the approach suggested by toltec and it worked really well. Much appreciated!
  6. Hello GabrielM. I'm afraid I don't have enough experience with Affinity Photo to understand all that. Any chance you could suggest a tutorial or tutorials that deal with those techniques. Thanks!
  7. I'm working on a colour photo and the subject has quite red-rimmed eyelids. I would like to use a soft brush and selectively brush out the redness in the eyes. Can anyone suggest the best way to do this? Thanks!
  8. Hello John, and thanks for replying so quickly. All the images I tried show as 'grayscale' when I checked. I don't know much about the whole colour space area, but I tried exporting some of them from Affinity to JPEGS and changed the colour space to RGB. And, as you suggested, I was able to use my Nik plugins on those images. I'll also take your advice and check out my scanner. It's an elderly Minolta Scan Multi II which I'm using with Vuescan software. I never came across this issue before, but maybe everything else I did was originally RGB. Anyway, it's great to find out what the cause of the problem is. I presumed that since the Nik software dealt with B&W images as well as colour that it would be happy with any B&W image. But it appears not to be the case.
  9. My Nik plugins are greyed out on some images but not on others. I recently scanned some old B&W negs to JPEG images and was trying to use my installed Nik plugins in Affinity Photo but they are greyed out. Other JPEG images I have in my folders work fine and all the Nik plugins are available for both B&W and Colour images. It seems that all my recent scans will not work with Nik plugins. I presume I've done something wrong but I've no idea what that is. The only thing I've noticed that seems new is that when I open those problematic B&W scans in Affinity Photo I get a window with a message saying 'Assigned Profile - Affinity Photo assigned your working profile, (Greyscale D50) to this unprofiled document' which disappears after a short while. I don't really know what this means or if it's significant in relation to the Nik Plugins issue. Can anyone help? Thanks!
  10. Thanks v_kyr. Thanks too for those links, which look very useful.
  11. Apologies to all who replied. I thought I was automatically notified if replies were made to this topic, but just now discovered I have to select 'Follow' the thread. So I just checked in to see why I'd heard nothing. 1. Walt. I've used the 'Soft Proofing'before and it does help, but I'd prefer to look at a print and want to try and cut down on ink and paper usage. 2. firstdefence. Thanks for the suggestion. I've seen that in tutorials for Photoshop users. I'll probably try that approach. However, I'm not really that familiar with Affinity Photo so hoped someone had already done the spade work and created a step-by-step tutorial. 3. R C-R. Thanks, but as I said above I'd prefer to be able to look at variations on actual paper. 4. v_kyr. What I meant was that the results I've had from mostly B&W prints (from scanned film original negs) have fallen short of what I could have achieved with the originals in a darkroom. If I had to put it simply I would probably have printed on a slightly harder grade of paper to get more punch. My inkjet prints seem to fall a little short of that 'punch'. But I've seen commercial inkjet prints that look great, so I know it's possible. And, I'm assured that the P800 can deliver the goods. 5. firstdefence. Thanks a lot for checking this out and offering the suggestion. If I go the soft proof route in the end I'll make sure to rename the layers. Apologies to everyone again for this tardy reply.
  12. Is there a tutorial anywhere on using Affinity Photo to print the inkjet equivalent of darkroom test prints? That is, using a small sheet of paper to get print variations on a selected area of an image. I want to make some A2 prints on my Epson P800 printer. My tests so far have not been what I wanted, although my monitor is properly profiled and I’m using the correct ICC profile for the paper. So, rather than continue to waste ink and paper, I was hoping to use a key area of my image and print a strip series of variations on e.g. an A4 sheet to decide on my best settings. Thanks!
  13. This is a very good idea. If Affinity don't do it maybe some third party could sell it as a plug-in on the Mac App Store.
  14. Hello James, About my 'printing to an exact size query', I may have confused you with my borders reference. I was just trying to say that it was not a 'bleed' or 'borderless' print. I haven't done much printing recently but I have had awful problems trying to print an image to an exact size. For example, if I have a 10x8 mat and I want to print just slightly bigger so that the image will be just about covered by the mat opening, but no more. I've had real problems doing that in the past with other photo editors which didn't always print the exact size I set. I just wondered if AP can reliably print an exact image size - for example in this case 10.1"x8.1". Thanks again, and thanks too for the new stuff on borders and Nik plug-ins.
  15. Hello James, and thank you very much for that really useful tutorial on Printing on a Mac and for all your wonderful tutorials. If only all other companies took the approach of Serif. I have a further query I hope you can help with. I regularly have to print a photo with borders that must fit an existing matt. I use an Epson P800 printer. I would like to know how to print to an EXACT print size, so that I can be absolutely sure the edges will be very slightly overlapped by the matt. I've had lots of problems with this in the past using various Mac photo software. I hope you can help. BTW what's the story on Serif's DTP program? I was a great fan of PagePlus and I'm looking forward to its successor. Best regards!
  16. My apologies, Alfred. You're absolutely right ... in my rush to keyboard I did misread your post. And in all the years I've been looking at those filters and using them it never occurred to me. Regards, Roy
  17. Thanks again smadell and Michael for taking the trouble to create those screen shots. Very useful and an adjunct to James' excellent new tutorial. Thanks too to Alfred for discovering that my YouTube link is still buried somewhere in my earlier post. BTW Alfred 'Neutral Density' in it's original photographic use is not such an oxymoron - It's 'Neutral' in that it does not affect the colours in the scene, and 'Density' in its ability to reduce the amount of light entering the lens. But there were variations, as I mentioned, in my response to James above. Some of the graduated filters were also ND but many were tinted for special effects. Regards, Roy
  18. Hello James, The effect in your tutorial (big thanks by the way) is just like 'graduated neutral density filters'. When I was shooting film I would always have standard ND filters without any graduation , and some graduated ND filters for dealing with skies. In fact a common one, a resin type made by Cokin, was called a 'Tobacco' filter, if I remember correctly. It was graduated from the Tobacco end to clear and usually used in the reverse of your warm tint effect. It gave the sky a nice warm sunset type look.
  19. Thanks very much James! That would be fantastic. I'm an old school darkroom photographer and spent a lot of time 'burning in' skies. So I'd love to be able to manage it easily in Affinity Photo. Looking forward to the tutorial.
  20. Thanks again MJSfoto1956, but I'd rather not post the photo. It belongs to a friend and I don't want to get involved in permissions etc. But, as I said, it was originally quite underexposed on the foreground. It was taken with an iPhone 6 against a morning sunrise. I managed to adjust the foreground so that it looks quite decent, but in the process lost most of the information in the sky. As I mentioned in my earlier post, I did manage to bring them a lot closer together in Affinity but could not get the gradient working properly. Following the PSE 9 tutorial worked immediately and I could control the sky. So I have more or less solved my problem, but not how to achieve the ND effect in Affinity. I've searched online video tutorials for some help with this but it seems no one has dealt with it in Affinity Photo. I'm surprised at that since I would have thought enhancing or controlling the sky would be a fairly common problem. I hope Affinity address it soon in their tutorials section. But I'm sure they're inundated with requests for tutorials, and they have done a terrific job with what they've provided so far. Thanks again!
  21. Thanks a lot smadell. I just tried what you suggested and it kind of works for me. I'm afraid I'm not sure exactly how to 'adjust the colours of the gradient'. I played around with clicking on the top and bottom circle of the gradient and moved the colour picker to the colours. I think it worked. However when I selected 'Overlay' in the blend options the sky came through but the foreground image was also dramatically affected - more contrast and I think saturation. I had only dragged the gradient down to just beyond the area where the sky met the foreground. I've no idea why the foreground was also affected (blend mode?) , but then again, as you will have gathered, I'm not too hot on Affinity Photo .... yet.
  22. Hello again Michael and James. I’m afraid I could not manage to achieve the ND gradient effect on the sky. I tried every which way until I was blue in the face - unfortunately I couldn't achieve the same effect with the sky. In some way that I can’t fully repeat or understand I did manage to bring the sky down a little - it’s very very overexposed compared to the foreground, and the foreground itself is underexposed. So I did end up with both sections closer together. But I can see from the mask icon that I do not appear to be getting the correct mask effect. I’ve tried it with White and with Black and all the ways I can imagine. I went through the Affinity Beginners tutorials and some others and couldn’t find any thing useful. I found the tutorial on substituting the sky, but that’s not what I want to do. So I must be missing some important point in the whole process. In the end I went back to my old copy of Photoshop Elements 9, found this tutorial on YouTube - - and within a few minutes I had the ND effect. The principle seems to be very like what you both suggested, but for some reason I can’t get it working in Affinity. I’d much prefer to be able to work all the time in Affinity Photo. So I hope Affinity add a video tutorial showing the steps needed to achieve what is a fairly basic and useful effect. Thanks again for taking the time to help. ​(Sorry, tried to include the link to the YouTube PSE 9 tutorial, but the Affinity Forum blanks it out)
  23. Thank you very much Michael and James. I really appreciate your helpful suggestions. It's late now, but I'll give them a try tomorrow and let you know how it works out. I agree that a tutorial on ND filtering would be useful.
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