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Found 3 results

  1. All of a sudden when i try to use the impainting brush it dows not work, I have tried it on several different photos and it still does not work. (Yes i painted over areas several times and nothing happens)
  2. Impainting tool improvement suggestions. Hi all I am new to AP. The #1 reason I bought it is for what I call garbage collection (lines, posts, signs, TV aerials, etc.): the impainting tool. OK, I am interested in others tools as well. ;-) I could do quick and excellent jobs but I also have been struggling in some situations. I was impressed by its performance yet I think it can be significantly improved. Here are some of my suggestions. I have been thinking about them long before getting AP. 1. Create specific tools for specific objects to be removed, for example wires. I had to remove tons of them with backgrounds of either foliage or buildings. If the line is just above or just under the top of the foliage or at the edge the result is often a blurred mixture of green and blue. It works well only if the background is plain blue sky or plain foliage. If the background is a building and the line passes across or along such features as windows, cornices, brick chimneys and other reliefs, the tool often doesn't reproduce the right pattern. Often you then have to work by little chunks and often undo and redo until you get the right result. 1.1. Wires A wire practically always follows a very predictable curb, has a regular width (or thickness) and a more or less consistent color (usually brown to black) or several colors when it shines under the sun light (black and whitish). It usually contrasts well with the background but can mingle with other patterns. The procedure would consist in: 1.1.a. Clicking on both ends of the wire. 1.1.b. Clicking on several spots in between so the program can calculate the curb and evaluate the width. 1.1.c. The program would enhance the wire and allow the user to adjust the width. 1.2. Posts I took pictures of a street art mural with posts in the foreground. Similarly they were straight, homogeneously colored (dark brown). The tool had the tendency to copy-paste the surrounding patterns, like it would do if it was grass for example. It gave a strange mirror effect with some duplicated features. A specific “post” tool would be able to better recognize what's to be removed and how to stitch the background pattern. 1.3. Aerials Aerials come in many different sizes and layout but have a common pattern. Their colors are also rather typical. The procedure would consist in creating a polygon around the aerial. 1.4. Lattice: electricity pylons, cranes, bridges, scaffoldings, etc. Like the aerials, they come in different shapes, patterns, colors and sizes and, depending on their background, can be very tricky to dispose of. What's special about them is that they can be very large and yet have a low opacity-to-transparency ratio: the actual total surface of the beams is small compared to the see-through "holes". The landscape that's behind is perfectly visible. A “lattice” tool would probably do the job more easily: 1.4.a. Select the Lattice tool. 1.4.b Click on a number of the beams and/or draw around it. 1.4.c Adjust if necessary. 1.5. Branches I often choose to take certain shots (of buildings for example) in winter when there are no leaves blocking the view. Yet barren branches can be rather obstructing anyway. Therefore a branch tool similar to the lattice tool would be nice. 1.6. Signs: One way street, No parking, etc. Specialized tools would be more efficient in certain cases. 2. Stitching I shot another mural that had two road signs in the foreground. The impainting tool did a “credible” job for the eyes of someone who can't see the original. I would say: “Well tried”. Let's say it's creative. Of course AP couldn't guess the actual features that were behind. It will do, it's minor features and people are not going to check. Whereas this shot was taken from right in front of the wall and therefore has only a slight vertical perspective deformation I also took another one from an offset position to capture the hidden parts and this shot has both horizontal and vertical deformations. What I have in mind is a tool that would allow to choose a region from one shot and to paste it in another shot while trying to make the perspectives match. In Hugin there is a Mask tool that allows to chose a region in the overlapping zones to be either included in or excluded from the final image. It's handy when a person, an animal or a car moved between two shots. I tried to do the job with Hugin and it was a disaster. It's obviously not its domain of competence. Maybe this tool would be rather tricky to develop but I know plenty of shots that I could save with such a feature. Just my 2cts. Nick
  3. Hey, Just wanted to share the latest tutorial with you all. This week we take look at a practical use of the new artboards feature in Affinity Designer. In this episode we create four album artwork covers for use in iTunes or Soundcloud. Click the link below, enjoy and subscribe to stay up to date. Allan How to create album artwork
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