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Maultierhirsch

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About Maultierhirsch

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    Vienna, Austria
  1. Maultierhirsch

    Superresolution

    Yeah, they tend to be huge.
  2. Maultierhirsch

    Superresolution

    Yes, the macro will make the process easier and faster. Without the macro you would have to apply the same changes to every single image by hand. Changing the opacity between layers, does not make a lot of sence in my mind. When you set the blend mode of your live stack to mean or median, it does pretty much the same as if you would manually change the opacity of each layer like shown in the PetaPixel article you posted (4. Averaging the Layers). Both methods make each picture contribute the same ammount to the final image. Setting the blend mode simply does the job for you and you do not have to do the calculating how much opacity each layer needs to have. Plus you can easily change the blend mode to other things without fiddeling around with settings on each layer. "Median" an "Mean" have slightly different results. Usually they are not very visible though. On some images it might make a slight differende. Feel free to experiment. Cheers Matt P.S.: Keep in mind, that you might have to make a new macro for each new project if you made specific changes to the source images (e.g. corrected the exposure). If you make the macro universal (only change the size of the image and make changes to the image you would apply to every raw image of your camera) and you save the macro output into a lossless image format, you can apply the other changes onto the live stack. But that might cost you a lot of CPU power and so time to wait for changes, depeding on the size of your images and also the number of images you process. You have to figure out for yourself what is best for you. A new macro for each project or waiting for the CPU to finish processing the stack.
  3. Maultierhirsch

    Superresolution

    Hi, sure no problem. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/uq2m6qqh5gd66zs/AADZBl2IktFi2slioxarKELMa?dl=0 Keep in mind, that there are also other adjustments to the image (contrast, saturation, etc.). Look at the details as well as noise/grain levels rather than the overall result. There is the main difference between one image, a stack of images and super resolution stacking. For really good SR results one would need very good and sharp images to stack. I also found a good Youtube video on super resolution by a photographer I like. This can give you a good feeling for what to expect. He uses Photoshop but it is the same technique. All the adjustments he makes to the raw images in Lightroom, you add to your macro. Ghosting you can directly edit in the live stack (adding a mask and painting out the ghost in the mask)
  4. Maultierhirsch

    Superresolution

    Hi dronecrasher, First you open one of your images in Affinity Photo. It does not matter which one, because it is just used for creating the macro, which you are then applying on all of your images. Then you record a macro using the steps I outlined in my post above. ("View-> Studio -> Macro activates the side panel" means goto the Menu "View", there to the entry "Studio" and there to the entry "Macro activates the side panel"). For the rest follow my steps from the previous post. Some additional Infos: When applying the macro on all of your images, you should use an uncompressed image format (e.g. bmp) as file type for the macro output. That way you don't have a loss of details due to compression. They are a lot bigger though. If you do not get good results, keep in mind that superresolution only adds a little sharpness to your image when done correctley. But it will never be like a real 48mp picture. The resulting image also depends a lot on the ability to acurately stack the images on top of each other. You will need a lot of patience when stacking. When you have all your images in the Live Stack, make only two images visible (disable the checkbox on the right of the image entry in the layers tab to maka a layer=image invisible). The fist image is you reference image, the second one you move around. The "live stack group" folder has a little sign (blend mode) next to the visibilty checkbox. Klick on it and change it to "standard deviation". This way you can check if you alligned correctley. If the image is black (you will still see the grain but mostly nothing from your image), then your allignment is ok. Otherwhise you will have to work on it. Next you make the second image invisible and make the third visible. It is important that you keep the reference image always visible and only change the other image. At the end you change the blend mode (the little sign next to the checkmark) to Mean or Median, whichever gives you better results. Good luck. I hope your images are easy to process. If you have questions feel free to ask. Cheers Matt
  5. Maultierhirsch

    Affinity Photo very slow working on mask layer

    I ran into a simmilar problem. I have a very big document to edit (25917x19114px - brush size 14,9px). As long as I edit the mask of the HSL-adjustment layer with the actual image visible it works fluently. But when I switch to the mask view (alt + click on Mask Layer) the whole program gets extremely slow. The user interface (ie. switching forefround with background color) as well as the brush strokes. I try to mitigate using the mask view but for checking I can't really avoid it. The CPU is the bottleneck (90+% CPU load of affinity - rest used by system). Just moving the mouse cursor over the layer makes the CPU freak out. Why is this only happening when switching to the mask view? The program should actually run faster since all the other layers/adjustments are not in effect - so less calculating. It should be able to concentrate only on one RGB-Layer. Is there a way to resolve this without reinstalling windows from scratch? Can you point to the problem which needs to be fixed in windows - if at all it is the problem. Greetings Matt
  6. @ Wikinger: Sorry for posting so late. Thanks for the recommendation of IRIS. I will give it a shot soon. I did not have trouble understanding the french post. I learned french in school and what I didn't get I understood after using translate.google.com. I am glad for information, no matter in which language. If someone does not understand, there still is the option to ask for assistance. It's not necessary to get rude. @ Wikinger: Je suis désolé de poster si tard. Merci pour la recommandation d'IRIS. Je vais bientôt essayer IRIS. Je n'ai pas des problemes à comprendre le message français. J'ai appris français à l'école et ce que je n'ai pas compris, j'ai compris après utilisér translate.google.com. Je suis heureux pour l'information, pas importe dans quelle langue. Si quelqu'un ne comprend pas, il est toujours possible de demander de l'aide. Ce n'est pas nécessaire d'être impoli.
  7. Thanks for the reply. Might work. Have to try it on my next project. @MEB: Found a bug using the CRTL-Arrow method. V 1.6.1.93 (Win) won't go to negative numbers when starting out at 0° and hitting CRTL-Arrow down. No problem when you are already in the negative range.
  8. Sorry, but the increments using you suggestion are way to big. I cannot use that method.
  9. That would really ruin the workflow. You cannot slightly rotate with the mouse using the transform panel and switching between mouse an keyboard to enter 0,x° then hit enter, check if works for me, then change for another 0,1°, check again, ... that's not really userfriendly.
  10. Hi, I am currently manually stacking a lot of moon shots. Thus i have to move and rotate the layers since the moon moves and rotates slightly. Moving wokes like a charm, but rotating could be a little better. Now I have to grab a corner node to rotate the picture, which makes me see only the very outer edge of the canvas. My suggestion would be to introduce a modifier key so I dont have to grab the node anymore, but could rotate the picture using the mouse anywhere on the canvas. This would allow me to rotate and check simultaniously. With shots like this not only the corner is of interest since the atmosphere distortes the pic all over the canvas and I have to check for the overall matching not only the corner matching. Thanks Matt
  11. The live denoise filter does not denoise areas with high contrast. See attached file (especially noticable around the red feet as well as the base the gull is standing on). DSC_2499.afphoto
  12. No changes to that in 1.6. That's a bit disappointing. Should be rather easy to fix (onFileLoad -> if Preset =! "Default" -> applyPreset() ) There is also a minor bug while the Preset drop down menu is active (blue border). When you scroll the mouse wheel during the mouse pointer being on top of the presets, they are being flipped through (not bad possibility) but the image is not being updated with the settings of the preset.
  13. Maultierhirsch

    stopping a batch job

    Anything on that? Did it get fixed with 1.6? Someone working on it? ...
  14. Thanks MEB, worked perfectly. Greetings Matt
  15. Hello, in an adjustment layer I painted in a mask. Later on I wanted another adjustment layer to have the same mask. Since it is not a simple mask, i would like to copy the mask or even better to extract the mask from the existing adjustment layer and paste it into a normal mask, which I can then move around in my layers as I need to. Is there a way to do so? I did not find anything on that. Greetings Matt
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