nickdaum

@barninga The panorama is not an issue for me. Hugin, which is a free app, is the reference in that trade and its engine is used in some commercial apps too. You can change the settings on your panorama as long as you want, close the so-called project and reopen it later to work on it. I agree AP's impainting tool does a great job and it was actually one of the reasons why I purchased the app. Yet I think it could be improved, especially in terms of speed and precision of execution. Check the thread I created and tell me what you think. Nick

Well, then I would like to see that mentioned in the specs. Yet when removing lines or posts in front of a building it can do a quite decent job but it needs quite an expertise to get a good result. With this in mind I create a Feature Request: Impainting tool improvement suggestions.. You could support it if you think the tool might be improved. Nick

I just tried the procedure you mentioned. The creation of the panorama itself worked well, i.e. it reproduced the same thing as the original one. OK. Yet the filling in did fill something in: rubbish. I guess it works with random patterns like grass or foliage but in my case, with structured objects it just somehow mirrored the adjacent part of the image and didn't try to make things aligned. It's absolutely not seamless. Another question: when you click on the Apply button you necessarily quit the Panorama Persona and you can't get back to it, right? So if there was a mistake you can't correct it anymore. Nick

I didn't have time to test the procedure. In my tests, whether it is because of the transparency or not, filling in empty corners worked only if these ones were small. For bigger ones the result was not satisfying at all if it worked at all. Nick

I was considering creating the same topic before I found this one. I have been using Adobe Bridge with mixed satisfactions and since I don't intend to use Adobe's softs anymore my old license will certainly no allow me to update Bridge after a while. Anyway it's mostly because of its many shortcomings (you can't zoom a photo!) that I've been looking for a replacement . I have some questions about the future DAM: How well advanced is the project? Do you intend to publish in advance the features (may be a short list)? Is it right now open to feature requests? I have many. Nick

Well, err…, that's what I am trying to do right from the start. It's one of the stuff I tried first with AP. I have plenty of panoramas done with either Hugin or Photoshop and that I had to crop a little too tightly to my taste. I would like to retrieve some additional width. I have also normal pics that were shot too tightly, most often at the top. If I could add some sky it would be nice. Unless I missed something, in the Panorama Persona one must open at least 2 pics and then stitch them before one can view anything. It seems there is no way one can open an already done panorama. Nick

I got results on very small areas and not all the times. Often the area isn't changed at all and remains transparent. At best there a little bit of a blurred painting. In the video the Impaint Missing Areas does marvel on large areas (at least in the video). Is it possible to open an already done panorama in the Panorama Persona and therefore be able to use the tool? I couldn't. I tried doing this specific panorama of a building seen from the side with a strong perspective effect and the result is not good at all. The issue is that there is no option for the type of projection. It seems to be cylindrical or equirectangular which doesn't work for that type of scene. Nick

OK, thanks. As far as I understand the Impaint Missing Areas tool exists in the panorama environment only. I have panoramas I already did with Hugin which I am used to. Is the tool accessible elsewhere? Nick

Hi all Sorry if the question is trivial and/or has already been asked many times. I didn't find a discussion about it. When doing panoramas for example you often end up with transparent gaps usually at the corners or at the top. I often feel sorry I have to crop too tightly to get rid of them. How to impaint those gaps? Most often the pattern to be filled in is rather simple: pavement, grass, sky, etc. I didn't find the tool for it. TIA Nick

I couldn't get any result. The Fill > Impainting does nothing. I must have missed something or you omitted some steps too obvious to you to mention. I am not yet familiar with such tools so I need to train on it. Anyway this procedure consists in applying another object over the target. The purpose of my suggestion is to make the procedure much quicker by first choosing in a list the type of object we want to impaint (wires, posts, etc.) so that AP knows what it has to look for, then clicking on it. What about doing the job in half a dozen clicks? Nick

Right. I use that one too. Yet, in many circumstances you have to work chunk by chunk and it's time consuming. In other cases it's just useless. In the attached image each line passes accross many different types of background that need a different approach, either the impainting tool or the clone tool. My suggestions would allow AP to exactly know what's to be removed and then make a more educated guess about the surrounding patterns to apply in the void. For example when it comes across a window it would know in advance it's the black line and not the white wooden part that's to erase. Let's see what the Affinity guys think about it. Nick EDIT: it won't take my image: "Error 500". :-(

Impainting tool improvement suggestions. Hi all I am new to AP. The #1 reason I bought it is for what I call garbage collection (lines, posts, signs, TV aerials, etc.): the impainting tool. OK, I am interested in others tools as well. ;-) I could do quick and excellent jobs but I also have been struggling in some situations. I was impressed by its performance yet I think it can be significantly improved. Here are some of my suggestions. I have been thinking about them long before getting AP. 1. Create specific tools for specific objects to be removed, for example wires. I had to remove tons of them with backgrounds of either foliage or buildings. If the line is just above or just under the top of the foliage or at the edge the result is often a blurred mixture of green and blue. It works well only if the background is plain blue sky or plain foliage. If the background is a building and the line passes across or along such features as windows, cornices, brick chimneys and other reliefs, the tool often doesn't reproduce the right pattern. Often you then have to work by little chunks and often undo and redo until you get the right result. 1.1. Wires A wire practically always follows a very predictable curb, has a regular width (or thickness) and a more or less consistent color (usually brown to black) or several colors when it shines under the sun light (black and whitish). It usually contrasts well with the background but can mingle with other patterns. The procedure would consist in: 1.1.a. Clicking on both ends of the wire. 1.1.b. Clicking on several spots in between so the program can calculate the curb and evaluate the width. 1.1.c. The program would enhance the wire and allow the user to adjust the width. 1.2. Posts I took pictures of a street art mural with posts in the foreground. Similarly they were straight, homogeneously colored (dark brown). The tool had the tendency to copy-paste the surrounding patterns, like it would do if it was grass for example. It gave a strange mirror effect with some duplicated features. A specific “post” tool would be able to better recognize what's to be removed and how to stitch the background pattern. 1.3. Aerials Aerials come in many different sizes and layout but have a common pattern. Their colors are also rather typical. The procedure would consist in creating a polygon around the aerial. 1.4. Lattice: electricity pylons, cranes, bridges, scaffoldings, etc. Like the aerials, they come in different shapes, patterns, colors and sizes and, depending on their background, can be very tricky to dispose of. What's special about them is that they can be very large and yet have a low opacity-to-transparency ratio: the actual total surface of the beams is small compared to the see-through "holes". The landscape that's behind is perfectly visible. A “lattice” tool would probably do the job more easily: 1.4.a. Select the Lattice tool. 1.4.b Click on a number of the beams and/or draw around it. 1.4.c Adjust if necessary. 1.5. Branches I often choose to take certain shots (of buildings for example) in winter when there are no leaves blocking the view. Yet barren branches can be rather obstructing anyway. Therefore a branch tool similar to the lattice tool would be nice. 1.6. Signs: One way street, No parking, etc. Specialized tools would be more efficient in certain cases. 2. Stitching I shot another mural that had two road signs in the foreground. The impainting tool did a “credible” job for the eyes of someone who can't see the original. I would say: “Well tried”. Let's say it's creative. Of course AP couldn't guess the actual features that were behind. It will do, it's minor features and people are not going to check. Whereas this shot was taken from right in front of the wall and therefore has only a slight vertical perspective deformation I also took another one from an offset position to capture the hidden parts and this shot has both horizontal and vertical deformations. What I have in mind is a tool that would allow to choose a region from one shot and to paste it in another shot while trying to make the perspectives match. In Hugin there is a Mask tool that allows to chose a region in the overlapping zones to be either included in or excluded from the final image. It's handy when a person, an animal or a car moved between two shots. I tried to do the job with Hugin and it was a disaster. It's obviously not its domain of competence. Maybe this tool would be rather tricky to develop but I know plenty of shots that I could save with such a feature. Just my 2cts. Nick

It should have been easy. It was a church taken right from the front with two portrait format shots with a 1/3 overlapping. The stiching was not good. But it's no big deal. For my panoramas I use Hugin which shines in that trade. I intend to use Affinity for other purposes. Nick

Hi all I am an amateur photographer and I am not creative, i.e. I don't apply filters or do effects. I usually say I do postcards. ;) My pics are sort of documentary in essence. I convert my RAWs with DxO OpticsPro. I just tested and then purchased AP. What I needed first is what I call garbage collection, i.e. impainting of lines, posts, signs, etc. For this purpose AP rocks! I was impressed by my very first tests. Yet I'll have some feature suggestions on this topic (unless it already had been suggested). I'll need also the Bokeh tool but I haven't tried is yet. I did a small test of the panorama feature but it didn't work well, maybe because the pics I used were not adapted. Regards Nick