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Everything posted by DeepDesertPhoto

  1. I decided to rework the image. Since the banding was in areas that were darker with many shades of gray I simply reworked the image with a lighter sky with less gray. It does not have the high contrasts of an HDR image but at least it no longer has the banding issue.
  2. When I work on these type of images I first shoot the scene in Camera RAW, in my case it is a Nikon D810 set to NEF raw. I then open the NEFs with AP and do the development. I have AP set to open the NEFs in 32 bit RGB HDR, which preserves 100% of the original NEF quality while I do the development. When all the development is done I then save the file as an AP document preserving the 32 bit RGB quality. I then use that as the master copy which I use to produce a 16 bit LAB TIF file for printing and an 8 bit RGB JPEG which is for uploading to the stock agencies I sell my work through.
  3. I was working an HDR image that looks perfectly fine in 32 bit HDR but when I convert it to 16 bit LAB or 8 bit RGB I am getting a banding problem. My banding problem is occurring in a storm photo I took in which I combined 3 exposures in 32 bit HDR. The banding appears in the smoother areas of the dark clouds in the photo. Like I said this banding is not visible with the original AP document that is in 32 bit HDR. The banding is only noticeable when converted to a 16 bit LAB color TIF file or an 8 bit RGB JPEG. I did not have this problem with the last version of AP so I am
  4. That is probably more plausible since I have not used Windows since 1995. Patrick Conner told me to post about this because he said that AP may need some tweaking since the JPF support is a recent update for the program. Until Serif fixes the color shifting and scrambled LAB color I will still have to use GIMP and Apple Preview App to convert my JPFs to TIF before using AP to edit them.
  5. As I mentioned in reply to another commenter I am able to open JPF with AP by right clicking on the JPF file directly and in the Mac Finder dropdown menu it does give AP as a program capable of opening it. But AP does not show JPF in its own "Open" dropdown menu. Since JPF support was just added for this version of AP maybe that is why Patrick Conner told me the software does need some tweaking.
  6. JPF does not show up on my AP "Open" dialog either. But I am using a Mac. I am able to open JPF with AP by right clicking on the JPF file directly and in the Mac Finder dropdown menu it does give AP as a program capable of opening it. If your Windows does not have that right click on the file option then that is a Windows issue.
  7. To my knowledge no still camera uses the JPF format. My Nikon only produces NEF files at full resolution. These files are very old, with some in my collection dating back to about 2007. Back then I had very limited hard drive space on my computer and external HDs were very expensive at the time, so I was using the JPF format to save space since JPF supported the same color modes and bit depth as TIF yet was about half the size of a TIF because the compression algorithm was similar to a PNG. The reason I did not use PNG was because PNG only supported RGB 16 bit and I used LAB color. Only
  8. XnViewMP probably has trouble handling the LAB color mode for this image. GIMP also cannot open a JPF in LAB color. That is why I had to use Mac Preview to open it and then convert it to an RGB JPF. I then use GIMP to open it and save it as a TIF for editing in AP.
  9. I can see that PhotoLine opened it as 16 bit LAB, which was the way it was originally encoded by Photoshop CS5. Affinity Photo can't do that yet. Hopefully AP will be adjusted so that I don't have to use other programs to open these older files.
  10. I do get that sometimes, but just manually select sRGB and then it opens.
  11. I'm not sure I am posting this in the proper forum but Patrick Conner asked me to post samples of JPF files that were not opening properly in the "Questions" section of the forum. He mentioned that JPF support was just added and might need tweaking. To give some history of the issues I had before JPF was added in the past when I tried to open a JPF file using AP I would get an error that it was an unsupported file. To get around this problem I used another program called GIMP to open the RGB JPF files and converted them to TIF. I would then use AP to reopen and edit. GIMP does n
  12. Sorry for the late reply, the notification I got ended up in my spam box for some reason. I will get to this shortly and post some screenshots showing the differences.
  13. I only updated my version of AP a few days ago, but I wanted to say thank you for addressing something that had been on my wish list since I first got the program over 2 years ago: full metadata control. In the older version I had I could only write descriptions into the metadata. Now I can also write a title, put in my author name, and most importantly for me, add keywords. I sell my photos through stock agencies and it was always a pain to manually type them in through the agency's website upload window because I had to do it with each website I uploaded to. Now I only need to add the keywor
  14. About a month or so ago I posted a topic asking when APh was going to add JPF (JPEG2000) support. During the discussion I was told by several forum members that they were able to open files with extensions of JP2. However, all of my old JPEG2000 files had the extension of .JPF and I kept getting an error that this file type was not supported. This was most likely due to the JPF extension being only used by Photoshop. A couple of members pointed me in the direction of other programs and online services that would do the job but I found those programs cumbersome to use and I did not l
  15. Apparently this is an issue that the techs for Affinity Photo will have to answer. It is not causing a problem with processing the photos, it is just an inconvenience when I have to drag the file tabs into their proper order before I begin processing the photos. Maybe someone from Affinity Photo will address this later or perhaps it will be fixed in a later update.
  16. Like I mentioned, if I open the files one at a time they do line up in the tabs in their original order. I can also drag the tabs into their original order, but that takes a little time if I have 8 or 10 files open at the same time. I also mentioned that when opening RAW files in which the file sizes are almost identical the opening order is completely random. I am wondering if this has something to do with the camera metadata because the only thing that varies a lot from image to image is the camera settings for each shot.
  17. I read through that thread and it seems the problem has not been addressed yet by those that write the code for APh, especially since I have the current version 1.7.3 I know it is not a problem with my Mac's Finder App because when I use the finder to select a group and open them with the Preview App they all open in their assigned alphanumeric name order. This random opening of the files seems to be only when I use APh to open them.
  18. If I open the files one at a time they will line up in order in the tabs. The problem starts when I select a group of images to open together. When I am opening RAW files as a group and they are close to the same size or have identical file sizes APh opens them in a totally random order. It seems the date does not matter because when I select a group of RAWs they all have the same date with only the hours and minutes varying. But even then when I select them they are in an order and yet APh opens them randomly. Does anyone have a technical reason APh might be doing this? Could it
  19. I am not sure if this topic has been covered before. I really love Affinity Photo. In my opinion it is superior to photoshop in many aspects, at least when compared to CS5 since that was the last photoshop I used to use before switching to APh. But there is one thing about APh that is kind of annoying. When I highlight a group of images I want to open at the same time APh always opens and orders them in the tabs according to their files sizes and not the order they are arranged in according to their alphanumeric names. This is particularly annoying when it is a group of photos I am pro
  20. I'm using a MacBook Pro Retina Laptop. I went to a website for testing the accuracy of my LCD screen and even though it is not 100% accurate it is in the "good" range. The only thing that is visibly out of adjustment is the gamma. The site also said that all monitors should be calibrated once every month or two depending upon usage. I checked the date of my last calibration and it is dated January of 2019. So it is overdue for a calibration. I ran a builtin utility for the color profiles in my Mac and out of 65 profiles it only found 3 errors. Since it takes a significant amount
  21. If left on factory default you would be correct. The LCD screen of my Mac would not give me color accuracy straight out of the box because the default setting tends to have a bluer tint. I carefully calibrated my LCD display by running the calibration program built into the Mac. It actually took 15 minutes to properly calibrate because I had to manually select some of the test patterns according to how I perceived the blacks and grays. If white objects looked white on the screen after calibration that is how you know if the colors are correct. If any white objects or white patterns on
  22. This is the reason I use LAB. Color accuracy. When I print my LAB color images they do come out very close to what I see on the computer screen. RGB and straight CMYK color modes don't always look right when compared to what I see on the screen.
  23. Like I said, I came to my conclusions through experimentation. When I found a setting in my printer that produced the most accurate colors I saved that setting as a separate preset so that I did not have to adjust it every time I tried to print an image. Notice in the screenshots of my prior comment that I have a preset called "Photo-Gloss-13x19". That setting is a preset I created specifically for LAB color mode images being printed on 13x19 inch photo paper. I have similar presets for different sizes and types of images.
  24. I am not an expert on printers. What I know is based on experimentation. I know that printers are inherently CMYK because all printers have at least 4 to 5 ink cartridges. I use a Canon Printer and it has the standard Cyan, Magenta, Yellow, and Black(K). But Canon also has a 2nd Black cartridge that is listed as Pigment Black. All of the other cartridges are made of dye ink. When I open an image that is already set to LAB color mode the print window that pops up has several setting options for color. Here are two settings I tweak to make sure my images in LAB get printed correct
  25. I used to use Epson printers but I found certain colors just did not come out right and black and white images always had a greenish tint to them. I switched to Canon and the prints had more accurate colors and black and white images came out with more accurate grays with Canon. I am not sure why Canon is better, it might be due to how the printer drivers handle images in LAB color mode. I set this stuff in the printer settings. I do know that if you leave the printer on factory default settings it will print using whatever the factory settings are. I don't think the printer actuall
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