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ncJohn

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Everything posted by ncJohn

  1. When printing from Photo 1.6.5.123 I use the Canon printer driver to set the paper size to 4x6, but the print preview in Photo shows the paper size to be 8.5x11. Other applications I print from don't do this so it isn't the driver. This is new behavior; I've printed to all different paper sizes before but I don't know if I've printed since going to this version of Photo. I've tried leaving the document at it's original size and using "scale to fit" in the print dialog, and I've tried sizing the document to 4x6. Regardless, the preview shows paper size of 8.5x11. I'm using windows 8.1 Pro 64-bit. Edit: I went back to ver 1.6.4 and it does the same thing. And it does it with different images. So if it's not the driver and it's not the version of Photo, and it's not the image, that kind of leaves "user error." But I've been using Photo for over 18 months. So does anyone have any ideas?
  2. Use the eyedropper to choose a color that you want to paint with. Then select the paintbrush. The colors switch. Edit: Apparently it has something to do with the X key (or shift X). Sometimes what I described happens and sometimes it doesn't, but I can't find a pattern to it.
  3. I repeatedly find myself having to undo an operation because the foreground & background colors switch when I select a tool. For example, if I create a mask layer, select black, then click on the paintbrush and start to paint on the mask, I find I'm painting white because the black and white have switched. If you click around on various tools in the toolbar you can see the foreground and background colors switching. I'm sure there's a method to this and I just don't know what it is. What makes the foreground and background colors switch?
  4. yes, I added them back and so far they're fine. What do you mean by "a reset of Affinity"?
  5. I had plug-ins for NIK, NeatImage, Topaz, Portrait Pro, and something else that escapes me now that it's not there anymore. They've all disappeared. I used them as recently as two days ago. I've restarted AP and the pc, that didn't bring them back. I'm using ver 1.6.5.123 on Windows 8.1 Pro 64. Does anyone have any ideas what would make them disappear?
  6. Okay, well thanks for the tip about grouping the layers and hiding the group.
  7. Are you saying that merging layers and zooming my view should be as slow as printing? Because that's not the case. By the way, the only live filters I'm using are two instances of vignette and one of blur.
  8. Exporting is interesting. Exporting as PNG, JPG, or TIFF is fine. It refuses to export as PSD; takes an unspecified error after a too-long time of trying.
  9. So is it normal to have to do this when working with images with a large number of layers?
  10. This solves the problem of how to print it, but does anyone have any idea why it's taking so long otherwise?
  11. Yes. With the group showing it's the same as before, but with the group hidden, it's pretty much instant.
  12. I've been using AP for quite some time and have never had any problems printing and I'm not sure what's relevant to this problem so I'm just going to post as much info as I can about what's going on. The bottom line is it's taking so long to print this image that it seems to be freezing up, and during the process it's taking up 50-60% of my total RAM and up to 100% of my CPU, with no other programs running. (I have a core i7 CPU and 24 GB of RAM.) There are 20 layers active in AP, plus the "merge visible" layer recommended in the printing tutorial video. Total file size of the image on the disk is 447MB and on the info line above the image in AP it shows 6.47MP and approximate 3000x2000px. I've tried this over and over with the same result. I tried restarting the pc to free up RAM and it doesn't make any difference. When I flatten the image it prints just fine, no hesitation at all, but I don't understand why it won't print if I don't flatten it. I keep thinking it has something to do with the size of the file but that's not based on anything, it's just a guess.
  13. Okay, I see! This is really very cool! That's very helpful "info" in that panel. It's so much more than I knew. Thanks a lot guys. Now, I do have another question about the info panel, but it's just a curiosity thing: What is "memory efficiency"? It changes as I open or close images but always hovers around 500%, even with 6 images open at once. If I got ridiculous and opened 20 at once (Which I don't want to do.) would it drop drastically? Edit: I thought of another question: Why do most images have samplers automatically but some don't?
  14. Yes. It doesn't seem to do anything but it's possible I'm just missing it because I can't figure out what "sampler" and "target" even are. Affinity Photo Help doesn't shed any light on it for me; it seems to assume that I'm already familiar with those terms. The way I've always used the "info" panel in Adobe is just to put the cursor on the image and it shows the colors in my image at that spot. Do you know of a place where they explain "sampler" and "target"? Thanks
  15. I'm curious why the "info" panel or palette sometimes will show color values for the cursor location and sometimes will only show the x/y coordinates of the cursor. I've tried changing the source selection, the layer, and the size of the cursor (well, actually, I've tried changing everything I can think of) and it works fine on some images and not at all on other images. What am I doing wrong?
  16. Apparently it's hard to know whether the Pro-100 supports 300 or 600. The actual driver only specifies fast, standard, or high quality (or, if you go into the custom dialog, it's standard, high, or fine). And a search online turns up a lot of people who say it's 300 and a lot of people who says it's 600. But I didn't see any who say how they know that. But thanks for the idea; maybe somebody who knows will speak up.
  17. A lot of the responses here refer to there being different sizes of screens. So, just to clarify... On any device with any size screen, if I display a 300PPI image at 1:1, could I hold a ruler up to the screen and count 300 dots in an inch (If my eyes were capable)?
  18. Well, I appreciate your (very comprehensive) response, but in my original post, my question was how to print at 300 DPI. That's what Toltec was replying to.
  19. So you're saying that I was doing it right all along: Resizing my files to 300 PPI before saving. Right? It's funny that EVERY thread I've seen about this subject does exactly what this one has done: it explodes with further questions and opinions, with the occasional unrelated tangent.
  20. Like many people, I've struggled with PPI/DPI and how they affect print quality. The discussions I've seen here are usually actually about PPI and include the advice, "You don't need to worry about DPI unless you're talking about printing," and then they don't mention printing again. But printing is exactly what I'm interested in. I think I have a grasp of the fact that AP says DPI when it means PPI, and that I don't need to worry about what DPI AP says my image has until I'm ready to print. But when I am ready to print, I don't see anyplace to specify what DPI I'd like in my print. It's not in the Canon printer driver and I don't see it in AP's print dialogue. When I was using Adobe, I saved every image I worked with at 300 (DPI? PPI?) and then when I printed I didn't even think about it. But all the discussions here (and the video tutorial Understanding DPI) make me feel really sure that I have absolutely no idea what DPI I'm printing at. (My prints look good, but I'd still like to be clear about this; maybe they could be better.) So how does one properly print at 300 DPI?
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