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Everything posted by strikele

  1. I too ran into the issue where I was informed by the MAS that there was an update to Photo as well as another program I have from them. When I tried to download either update , I was told that the updates could not be downloaded. After trying several different thing, it turned out that I was not signed in to my Apple ID. Once I did that, the downloads worked. Photo 1.8.6 is running fine for me under the latest Mojave.
  2. Sorry, Chris. I should have sent you a note, but the screen I used for update stated you would be automatically informed. Thank you for having a look at it. Leslie
  3. Chris, I have attached 2 original tif files from Canon's DPP4. IMG_0237 is ISO 400 and shows up that way in AP, and exports as jpg correctly. IMG_0241 is ISO 125 and shows up in AP as ISO 72 and exports to jpg as 72 . Leslie IMG_0241.TIF IMG_0237.TIF
  4. In the latest version of Affinity Photo, 1.7.2 from Apple Store, there appears a strange bug. ISO values are incorrect in many cases, but not all. For example, ISO 400 in a TIF file, will be shown in Affinity's EXIF tool as 800 and will be written as such on the exported jpg. ISO 125 will be shown as 72. ISO 640 will appear as 1987 and ISO 1000 as 4935. This occurs with TIF files coming from Canon's DPP 4, on both my Canon G7X mark 11 files and my Canon 77D files. The ISO on the incoming TIF files matches that of the CR2 files. Other programs, such as Xnview show the ISO on the TIF files correctly. In some instances, particularly those with ISO 100, the error does not seem to occur.
  5. I ran into the same issue a couple of years ago. Not only would the Kodak machines not read the data, but neither did the online printing services offered by a couple of the local camera stores (perhaps they were also using Kodak machines?). In the end, I had them printed at a Costco store with no problems. If you should happen to have a Costco nearby, I would suggest that as a good solution. P.S. I am on a Mac so it is not a Windows glitch. Good luck Leslie
  6. It is too bad that Deep Sky stacker has not worked for you; I do not know why it should reject so many images. I used it quite a few years ago, and did not run into that situation. The rule of thumb for a properly exposed deep sky image is to have the back-of-camera histogram hump separated from the left side, and about 1/4 to 1/3 of the way to the right-hand side. I have taken images, that I managed to successfully process, where the hump was about 1/2 of the way to the right, largely because of sky glow in my suburban location. Regardless of what software you use to align and stack, you will still need to stretch the combined image using a series of curves to bring out the object from the background. Good luck in your endeavours.
  7. Most people doing deep sky astrophotography use a separate program to align and stack their images before taking them into a program such as Affinity for processing. One of the most common is Deep Sky Stacker (for Windows) which is free and will align the images (to correct for earth's rotation), rate the images and then let you choose which ones you want to stack. If you are on the Windows platform, this would be, I think, a much easier way to accomplish the task.
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