Eirik

This was just a test so I did not care about the background. What I’m aiming for is to maybe use focus stacking for my playing card shots, like these: https://www.instagram.com/52_eirik/ As you can see, some of my shots does not have all of the box in focus. I’m not sure I mind that personally, but I know some of the more dedicated playing card collectors wants more details. But I can only stop down the lens so much. Honestly, what I would love to have the most would be a bellows system like this guy has. But I think it’s a bit over the top for a hobby photographer like me.

Hmm interesting. If that is the case, then I might not be able to use focus stacking since I have lots of tuck boxes with way more intricate details. Thanks for all the help btw!

How does file format affect focus breathing? That’s an optical property of the lens. I know newer Sony cameras can compensate for focus breathing during videography, maybe even photography, but that is a very new feature that most cameras don’t have. I did not apply any processing on these. Shot RAW and exported as jpeg, then stitched the jpegs. But I did use light from the window, so that could maybe have been changing during some of the shots. As a matter of fact, the most ghosting you see on the last two examples happened on the side of the box with the most direct light from the window. That might be my proble. Gonna try again tonight when it’s dark and I can use only artificial light. Never heard of over stacking before, but I’ll try to keep it in mind as sometime to try. You mean editing in post right? Not camera/lens repair? What kind of hardware would that be? Maybe a tilt shift lens? Edit: my suggestion of a tilt shift lens made no sense as an answer to your statement… though it’s a thing I want.

Here are two more attempts. First one was with mechanical shutter second with electronic shutter. Same settings for both. Same results. Better results, but there is still some ghosting, especially on the right side of the box. I don’t know what’s causing it. Only used 18 and 17 photos this time, maybe that has something to do with it? Does the results usually get worse the more photos you use?

The thing is, I used the built in focus bracketing function in my camera, so I did not have to touch the camera at all while it was shooting. I even used a 2 second timer to let any vibrations dissipate before it shoots AND 2 seconds between each photo. My camera is a mirrorless camera too (Fuji X-T2), so no mirror slap to worry about. I guess there could be vibration from the shutter. I’m gonna re do this with an electronic shutter and see how that goes.

This was 40 photos, shot at 5.6 with a tripod and I still got ghosting. What am I doing wrong?

Any updates on when this basic feature will be implemented?

Hello there. So the story with this image is that I edited the raw file in Lightroom on pc and then somehow transferred it to photoshop on my iPad. But it was a while ago, so I do not remember what file format I used. But I usually export in TIFF, so that is probably what it was. Don’t know why it shows as a PS Cloud Document in the app. Are the small versions not enough? They seem to behave the same as the big one. I’m not willing to give away full resolution photos unfortunately. EDIT: My reading skills are not good, so I missed that Callum might not have seen the original thread. In that thread I posted a couple smaller versions of the file, like Walt.Farrel says.

Okay so it’s not just on my end. I’m on the latest version. (Checked by seeing if there was any pending updates in the App Store) Yeah I noticed the difference in size too. It’s very odd. Dont know if it’s useful information, but I’m on the latest version of iPadOS and I’m using 5th gen iPad Pro 12.9 Just now tried exporting with both png and jpeg formats and those worked fine. Just wanted to check to be sure.

Here we go. First one is a version I exported to the photos app. The second one is one that I exported to Affinity Photo and then exported from affinity photo to the photos app. 7B40F5FD-045D-4633-941B-F2AC8404CD2F.tiff 59A9244B-F827-4A6F-8336-B708BE06D9E5.tiff

I’ll see what I can do. It’s RGB

No it’s happening with other files too. After some digging (because it’s not easy to find the file format in the PS app) it seems to be a “PS Cloud Document” file. But that doesn’t matter does it, since I am exporting as tiff? Im mentioning the file type just in case it matters. It’s 16bit and and the resolution is 5000x4000. I’m not really comfortable with sharing full size photos online though.

I have a file in the Photoshop app that I want to edit in the Affinity Photo. I want to use Tiff because I don’t want to loose any details, but every time I try the colors look awful when I get the file into Affinity Photo. I’ve tried every way of transferring the photo I can think of, and it’s definitely not the exporting process from Photoshop that messes it up (checked by exporting to the photos app). Anyone know what is going on here?

Thank you!! That is exactly what I want. Snapping should be on by default imo. I was ready to give up on this app because of how frustrating some of it is.

Are you serious? The best way to crop is to not use the crop tool? I tried it and there is one big problem with this that makes it not a viable solution for me and that is the lack of aspect ratios. I need to be able to crop with specific aspect ratios. is there really no way to make the crop tool stay inside the canvas?

When I crop a photo and move the crop/selection around, it moves outside the canvas if I'm not careful. Is there a way to make it impossible to crop outside the canvas/photo? I dont understand when I would ever want to do that.