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Morning, how many images are you adding to the Panorama, and do the images have a tick at the side of them?

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1 minute ago, debbru said:

Do I need to select New Stack instead of New Panaorama 

A stack is not a panorama! Stacking puts similar images on top of each other so that you can do focus stacking (to get rid of depth-of-field effects) or HDR merging (to extend the range of brightness levels in an image).

For successful stitching of a panorama, you need to have a significant amount of overlap — 20% or more — between adjacent pairs of images.

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If you attempted to create a panorama using File > New Panorama, then my best guess is that you did not have sufficient overlap.

On 11/23/2018 at 8:35 AM, debbru said:

How can I get around this?

Really the best way is to go back and re-take the pictures with more overlap. If you do actually have some overlap, but not enough for the panorama algorithm, then it might be possible to stitch manually. We could best advise you on this if we could see your images.

John

Windows 10, Affinity Photo 1.10.5 Designer 1.10.5 and Publisher 1.10.5 (mainly Photo), now ex-Adobe CC

CPU: AMD A6-3670. RAM: 16 GB DDR3 @ 666MHz, Graphics: 2047MB NVIDIA GeForce GT 630

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On 27 November 2018 at 2:57 AM, John Rostron said:

If you attempted to create a panorama using File > New Panorama, then my best guess is that you did not have sufficient overlap.

Really the best way is to go back and re-take the pictures with more overlap. If you do actually have some overlap, but not enough for the panorama algorithm, then it might be possible to stitch manually. We could best advise you on this if we could see your images.

John

Thank you for your reply. Do you want me to send the 3 individual images. Or do you want them set up ready to be stitched into a Panorama

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I'm interested in this as well. My new camera doesn't have a panaramic mode, so I did a quick test by taking 3x images and got the same result. Got 3x ticked images but the stitch panarama button wouldn't do anything. Will be watching this thread with interest.

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52 minutes ago, debbru said:

Thank you for your reply. Do you want me to send the 3 individual images. Or do you want them set up ready to be stitched into a Panorama

Cold you post the three images as attachments?

John

Windows 10, Affinity Photo 1.10.5 Designer 1.10.5 and Publisher 1.10.5 (mainly Photo), now ex-Adobe CC

CPU: AMD A6-3670. RAM: 16 GB DDR3 @ 666MHz, Graphics: 2047MB NVIDIA GeForce GT 630

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These 3 images do not make up a suitable panorama set.  All images should use the same focal length (and other settings) and simply be panned.  Your third image looks like a zoomed out version of the first image, not another pan, and will not stitch properly.  If you take just the first two images you should get a decent stitch.

Click the icon on the left to select the history step that you want to apply with the undo brush.  Or did you mean the ones on the right?  That's the new alternate futures feature:

“Alternate futures” for document history have been added. Traditionally, if you roll back the undo history then do something else all your changes after that point are lost. Photo will now display a small branch icon in the history tab when you do this. Pressing that button will cycle between all the different “futures” after that history entry - meaning you will never lose work you have done.

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652884878_DebbruPanaroma.thumb.jpg.6d94be46747fb8be590639565037c0aa.jpg

I used the top two images, as Davis quite rightly notes trying to stitch the middle and bottom image will result in a mismatched panorama.

I straightened up the second image so that the boat was level and saved it, then imported both images to the panorama window and stitched them. I also used the mesh warp tool afterwards to straighten out the bay sidewalk a bit, then just cropped the image to get a neat picture.

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If you can stitch 2 of the images you can the stitch the 3rd but working with the screenshots provided does not show how best to tackle the OP's initial problem.

The OP needs to upload the 3 images (straight from camera) that he was trying to stitch when he got the 'no Panorama Detected' error message

 

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I agree original images will get better results, to add the third image it might be useful to use a third-party app called Hugin. With Hugin you have to ad the key points manually, this is a good way of understanding what is involved in creating a panorama and hopefully take better images to stitch at a later date.

A very simple tip for panorama's is to take the images to be stitched with the camera held vertically or sighted on a tripod vertically and just take more images.

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2 hours ago, firstdefence said:

652884878_DebbruPanaroma.thumb.jpg.6d94be46747fb8be590639565037c0aa.jpg

I used the top two images, as Davis quite rightly notes trying to stitch the middle and bottom image will result in a mismatched panorama.

I straightened up the second image so that the boat was level and saved it, then imported both images to the panorama window and stitched them. I also used the mesh warp tool afterwards to straighten out the bay sidewalk a bit, then just cropped the image to get a neat picture.

Thank you for your help. When I'm stitching Panoramas in the future, if there a bit tricky I will follow your instructions. When you get them all aligned, can you tell me how you paint on the layer, like you did in PH

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What you you want to achieve with the painting Debbru?

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2 hours ago, firstdefence said:

A very simple tip for panoramas is to take the images to be stitched with the camera held vertically or sighted on a tripod vertically and just take more images.

I would support this suggestion. Make sure that you have a good overlap. I usually try to have around a third on each side. If your camera has a level (like a spirit level)  available in the live view, then this helps enormously in keeping your images level. Otherwise, if your display offers horizontal guide lines (as in the rule of thirds) then these can be used to align with any horizontal objects such as the quayside.

John

Windows 10, Affinity Photo 1.10.5 Designer 1.10.5 and Publisher 1.10.5 (mainly Photo), now ex-Adobe CC

CPU: AMD A6-3670. RAM: 16 GB DDR3 @ 666MHz, Graphics: 2047MB NVIDIA GeForce GT 630

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7 hours ago, debbru said:

For future reference could you tell me how to Panoramas manually.

The best advice is: "don't". If you cannot do it with Affinity, then other programs are available. For problematical images, then Hugin is very effective, but is rather fiddly, and takes some getting used to. Even so, it is probably easier than doing it manually.

If you would like to try doing it manually then try this:

  • Load the first image, then the second.
  • If there are obvious horizontal or vertical objects, then straighten these first.
  • In the first image, use Document > Canvas Size to add space on the side that the second image needs to go. It is also worth adding some space at the top and bottom.
  • Copy the second image and paste it on top if the first.
  • Set the opacity of this top image to 50-60%. Make sure you have it selected.
  • Use the cursor keys to align the second image so that the overlapping areas coincide.
  • If you have your two images well aligned horizontally, this may be sufficient. Otherwise, you will need to rotate the top image to bring it into alignment. This is the tricky bit and it is why I do not recommend  aligning manually! You may need to alternate between rotation  and vertical/horizontal alignment.
  • Reset the opacity of the top layer to 100%.
  • If there is a detectable join, then use the eraser with a very soft brush to give a soft edge to the top image.
  • When (if) all is now aligned, flatten the  layers and crop the canvas.. 

John

Windows 10, Affinity Photo 1.10.5 Designer 1.10.5 and Publisher 1.10.5 (mainly Photo), now ex-Adobe CC

CPU: AMD A6-3670. RAM: 16 GB DDR3 @ 666MHz, Graphics: 2047MB NVIDIA GeForce GT 630

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On 11/29/2018 at 12:02 AM, John Rostron said:

The best advice is: "don't". If you cannot do it with Affinity, then other programs are available. For problematical images, then Hugin is very effective, but is rather fiddly, and takes some getting used to. Even so, it is probably easier than doing it manually.

If you would like to try doing it manually then try this:

  • Load the first image, then the second.
  • If there are obvious horizontal or vertical objects, then straighten these first.
  • In the first image, use Document > Canvas Size to add space on the side that the second image needs to go. It is also worth adding some space at the top and bottom.
  • Copy the second image and paste it on top if the first.
  • Set the opacity of this top image to 50-60%. Make sure you have it selected.
  • Use the cursor keys to align the second image so that the overlapping areas coincide.
  • If you have your two images well aligned horizontally, this may be sufficient. Otherwise, you will need to rotate the top image to bring it into alignment. This is the tricky bit and it is why I do not recommend  aligning manually! You may need to alternate between rotation  and vertical/horizontal alignment.
  • Reset the opacity of the top layer to 100%.
  • If there is a detectable join, then use the eraser with a very soft brush to give a soft edge to the top image.
  • When (if) all is now aligned, flatten the  layers and crop the canvas.. 

John

Thank you for your reply, I will try that. Can you tell me when you've created a preset, can you edit them because I've noticed when I was adding one, I didn't set it up correctly

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6 hours ago, debbru said:

Thank you for your reply, I will try that. Can you tell me when you've created a preset, can you edit them because I've noticed when I was adding one, I didn't set it up correctly

Hope this helps you. I'm afraid that I cannot help you on presets. I have no experience of these. I ought to though!

John

Windows 10, Affinity Photo 1.10.5 Designer 1.10.5 and Publisher 1.10.5 (mainly Photo), now ex-Adobe CC

CPU: AMD A6-3670. RAM: 16 GB DDR3 @ 666MHz, Graphics: 2047MB NVIDIA GeForce GT 630

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On 11/28/2018 at 1:02 PM, John Rostron said:

Set the opacity of this top image to 50-60%.

Alternatively, set the blend mode of that top layer to ‘Screen’ (remembering to set it back to ‘Normal’ at the end of the procedure).

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17 hours ago, αℓƒяє∂ said:

Alternatively, set the blend mode of that top layer to ‘Screen’ (remembering to set it back to ‘Normal’ at the end of the procedure).

If I set the blend mode to 'Screen' can you tell me what that does

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