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how to do this in black and white


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Switch to the pixel persona and look under the drop down categories in the brushes panel

To save time I am currently using an automated AI to reply to some posts on this forum. If any of "my" posts are wrong or appear to be total b*ll*cks they are the ones generated by the AI. If correct they were probably mine. I apologise for any mistakes made by my AI - I'm sure it will improve with time.

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this 'then add blend mode Overlay, 100% on the pixel layer, merge down and then go to the Threshold adjustment, i set it to 30% but you might want to play with the settings' seems to be too difficult for me. Although I'm using AD from the very very beginning and made more then 2000 drawings, I never went further than the things I need for these black and white drawings for the job I do. Sorry.  But always ready to learn!

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Sorry, i was using Photo but i don't see any option in Designer for merging down when i right click on the layer, i think you can just drag the new layer above onto the layer below in designer and that merges them together. Adjustments isn't very noticeable in Designer either,  just a small halftone circle next to fx and threshold is set to 0% so you won't see anything happening till you increase the value :)

Edit: Should also add, set the hatching brush set to about 30 px.

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I don't know what resolution you need, but I had fun playing with your bird :)

Here some high resolution exported files and a test with the half-tone filter in photo, that you can play with on the greyed file.

You can modify the resolution and play with the files (2 exported ones + the original Designer file), perhaps lightning some parts, etc.:

Bird files

Some previews:

oiseau_gris_1200trame_low_res.thumb.png.17d2503b66416045c6d78419adb8dcd6.pngoiseau_gris_1200_low_res.thumb.png.68a74eb1cf03a2f3652348669dad12cb.png

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Hi @iMac1943

Because this bird make me think of a peacock or a "bird of paradise" (I never checked how it looks, but I Think it's exotic and colorfull !) The tail's  feathfes ather like the black and blue ones of a rooster (but violet and yellow  ones are more exotic :P)

And since I was trying those brushes, I thought the strokes would blend nicely in color.

 

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If you need shading, only way to get it in screen printing is to use low lpi halftoning (or stochastic raster). Creating that in AD/AP may be difficult. If halftone filter is used it needs some more processing to get final print.

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39 minutes ago, iMac1943 said:

Thank you Fixx but I dont know  what low lpi is. You also say it’s difficult in AD/AP. I think it’s a bridge to far for me.

Line Per Inch is how many dots a printer prints per inch of tee-shirt. The lower the number of dots, the coarser the image.

Lines is from an 19th century process, but it is dots now.

image.png.a95457e2f92bd15e128cd6135dc0e03d.png

Unlike Litho printing which is typically printed with 175 or 150 dots per inch, silkscreen can only manage to print about 50 dots per inch. The screens are the limiting factor. However, with the way you are printing it on your chalk paper, I don't know if that process could manage to print at 50 dots per inch. You may have to go lower (less dots per inch).

That's why I suggested experimenting with the halftone filter in Photo?

Windows PCs. Photo and Designer, latest non-beta versions.

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2 hours ago, iMac1943 said:

Hi toltec, when I start a new drawing, the setup I use is this:

Do you mean, for the screen printing, I should change the DPI to 72?

 

No, absolutely not!!!

Do not confuse the DPI box on the screen with Dots Per Inch on the page (fabric in your case). This is where it confuses people. 

When printing (in greyscale), the printer uses varying size dots to simulate shades of grey. The bigger the dot, the darker the grey, the smaller the dot, the lighter the grey, like in the dotty image I posted earlier. Created in AP with the halftone filter BTW.

The printing resolution (measured in lines per inch) is actually how many rows of dots the printer creates on the paper/fabric per inch. The more dots, the better the resolution as the eye can’t see them.

In software programs they use DPI (incorrectly) to measure pixel density, or use (equally incorrectly) PPI for the same thing (DPI or PPI means the same on screen). But it is totally wrong as there are no inches on a screen. Well, there are, but they are never real inches as 72 pixels on a 50” TV takes up a hell of a lot more space than 72 pixels do on a smart phone. So using inches as a screen image measurement is totally daft, but we are stuck with it. 

Pixels per inch is relevant for printing because you normally need twice as many pixels per inch as there are printer dots to create a decent image. If you are printing an image 2” x 2” at 150 lines per inch (which means 150 dots per inch being printed) you need an image 600 x 600 pixels. i.e. 2 pixels per dot. It doesn’t matter if you create it as 3” x 3” at 200 DPI/PPI or 6” x 6” at 100 DPI/LPI in Photo, it will still contain the same number of pixels (600 x 600) see?

Just ignore anything to do with screen resolution, but you can use the DPI setting to work out how many pixels you need when printing. So if you need an image 600 x 600 pixels for a 2” x 2” print at 150 LPI.  If you enter 2” x 2” at 300 DPI, Photo will work out that you need an image 600 x 600 pixels. That’s a lot more useful when working out how many pixels you need for an image 1 5/8” x 3 1/4”.

None of that applies to your situation, because of the way you are creating the screen. On an imagesetter, I could have simply set it to create 45 LPI (or dots in every inch). In fact I remember once making a film at about 30 lines per inch for a special printing project and you could actually count the dots ;)).

Unfortunately, you have no control over LPI on your printer, so you will have to create the dots yourself.

You could do that by using a brush (as a few people have suggested) or make a screen using the halftone filter, as I demonstrated. The trick will be finding something coarse enough for your printer/silkscreen screen to reproduce. Either way, you will have to create the dots yourself!

BTW, what you set in the DPI box doesn’t really matter if you are printing vectors or text. It is for raster images.

Windows PCs. Photo and Designer, latest non-beta versions.

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