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1. I have a Canon Rebel T7i. The ver 1.6 supported cameras does not list this model. Does Affinity support this camera and lenses - I have two kit lenses - 18-55 and 70-300 mm?

2.  I use LR ver 5.3 for my initialprocessing. As LR 5.3 does not read CR2 files, I convert my files to DNG and do my processing. Can I transfer DNG files between LR and Affinity as I want to use Affinity for special processing such as panaroma, focus stacking and HDR? From what I read, it seems to support TIFF and JPEG.

Please confirm this as I am keen to buy Affinity.

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Hi ravinat,

Welcome to the forums :)

Unfortunately the Serif Labs RAW engine does not support your camera, however the Apple Core RAW engine does, meaning if you were to purchase the software on a Mac and change the RAW engine through the Develop Assistant then Affinity Photo could process your images.
I wish I could be specific with lens support, but Apple are somewhat protective of which lenses they do and don't support and I'm yet to find an official list. It's widely believed however that if Apple support the camera then it will also support lens correction for the kit lenses of that model, so you should be fine.

Affinity Photo certainly can read DNG files, there's a post on our forums here with other customers using DNG files without issue however it isn't technically a supported file type as certain conversion software creates DNG files that are not as universal as others.

Please note that Affinity can't currently non-destructively edit photos in conjunction with Lightroom. We're aware that certain apps can develop and edit RAW files, then save these changes over the original file without affecting the RAW and these edits can be reverted at any point. This is a future feature that we'd like to implement!

You can of course try our 10 day free trial of Affinity Photo to see if it suits your needs! :D 

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Thanks Dan for your response. I am a windows user and would love to see support for Rebel T7i. 

Though ideally I would like a non-destructive transfer between LR and Affinity, I can still live with DNG (which anyway was converted from CR2 - I still have the original CR2 file).

I will play with the free trial and get back.

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What is Affinity's sweet spot - CR2 or DNG? Can it write CR2 files after processing? I think I read that it can write DNG files.


 

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Affinity can't currently save files in any RAW format or DNG, our export list can be found below:

Full Save or Export List

  • Adobe® Photoshop® PSD
  • TIFF (layers preserved)
  • PNG
  • JPG
  • Progressive JPG
  • GIF
  • SVG
  • EPS
  • EXR (Open EXR)
  • HDR (Radiance)
  • PDF (can also be opened in Adobe® Illustrator®)
  • PDF/X-1a, PDF/X-3, PDF/X-4
  • Affinity Designer (Affinity common file format)

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15 hours ago, ravinat said:

What is Affinity's sweet spot - CR2 or DNG? 

I mostly use DNG, but I haven't noticed any difference with CR2.


AP user, running Win10

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I downloaded the trial version and the first test I ran was on panaroma stitching. I took 4 pictures of my kitchen and got Affinity to stitch it. I also did exactly the same with IDE, a free utility from Microsoft. Here are my results:


IDE

1. Can only read JPG files (I shot the photos as Raw+JPG)

2. The stitching of photos was not seamless - in fact, it showed two photos as out of alignment

3. The contrast in the component images was not identical as I shot this picture indoor and some parts of the room were brighter than the other

4. I had to take the resultant image and play with gradient filters in LR 5.3. 

5. The result was just passable


Affinity

1. It read CR2 files from my SD card without a problem

2. It stitched the photos seamlessly and I could not tell by looking at it the components

3. I used the crop tool as recommended by the tutorial 

4. I did use the 'develop' options to adjust some basics.

5. The result is fantastic.

Affinity beats IDE hands down.

As a newbie, I want some advise on how to straighten, let's say my countertops on my panaroma photo, which now look bent as they have been stitched from three photos.

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16 hours ago, ravinat said:

Affinity beats IDE hands down.

I'm glad to hear it! :D

16 hours ago, ravinat said:

I want some advise on how to straighten, let's say my countertops on my panaroma photo

I'm a little unsure the type of straightening you're looking for without seeing the image, if you could provide a sample that would be helpful :)

There is a straightening tool within the crop tool, check out the following tutorial to see how this works: 

 

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16 hours ago, ravinat said:

3. The contrast in the component images was not identical as I shot this picture indoor and some parts of the room were brighter than the other

If you're taking pictures for a pano it's a good idea to shoot in manual  - it means that any differences between them are due to the lighting rather than the camera making unwanted adjustments.

 

17 hours ago, ravinat said:

As a newbie, I want some advise on how to straighten, let's say my countertops on my panaroma photo, which now look bent as they have been stitched from three photos

Have a look at the Mesh Warp and Perspective tools.


AP user, running Win10

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Thanks for the responses. I did see the video on the mesh Warp tool and used it to straighten the countertop. I have not got a full hang of the warp tool as it does not seem to work the way I thought. Straightening the countertop does not straighten the shelves. The stitched kitchen still looks a bit wacky. Let me see if the perspective tool would help. I think at the end, the combination of perspective and mesh warp should do the job - however, it will take a bit of time for me as I am getting used to the interface.

BTW, I have another question. Can I take a series of pictures of say, a boat sailing through the lake at various intervals and create a composite image of the scene with the boat appearing in various parts of the lake, as an example? Would appreciate help with this.

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Thanks Dan for your responses. I did go through the videos. In my situation, I plan to take the photo of the boat sailing on the lake with a tripod. Apart from the object, the only thing that may have movement is perhaps the clouds in the sky. I will need to play with the software on how I can show the boat at various positions in its journey across the lake. Given these circumstances, should I :

1. Align the stack?

2. Use Mean operator or any others for stacking?

What came close to my requirement was the example of Long exposure simulation. Of course, I am not trying to do that, but I may shoot myself on the foot with the moving clouds. Not sure, how to deal with that.

Also, on the panaroma, I tried both the Mesh Warp and Perspective tools. I am not able to get the result I was looking for. Let me post the basic panaroma on  the forum that is stitched by Affinity and you can perhaps get a better idea of the issues I am running into.

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I have another problem for which I need some help. Here is the background to this picture:

1. I saw an iceberg almost 2 KM from the coast in my recent trip

2. I took an image of my wife's hand as though it was holding the iceberg.

3. Being a 70-300 mm lens, the hand was in focus but not the iceberg

4. I took subsequently a few more pictures with the iceberg in sharp focus

5. I want to merge the iceberg from the image where it was in sharp focus along with the hand that is in focus

6. I had difficulty wit the selection brush as I could not exactly get a rectangular mask. I used a marquee tool and was able to create a rectangular mask

7. When I created a mask, there is a small gap of about 1 cm between the two images in the merged image

8. What is the best way to ensure that there is no gap between the two images in the merged image?

9. Also, I want the transition between the two images to be seamless as the color of water in both these images is a bit different.

Your input is appreciated.

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14 hours ago, ravinat said:

Given these circumstances, should I :

1. Align the stack?

 2. Use Mean operator or any others for stacking?

In all honesty this will vary from project to project, and I couldn't say for certain without the images to try. I believe that you should most likely not align the images, as Affinity Photo may try and align the boat as a point of reference and you'll end up with the opposite of the look you're going for! I've personally found that live stacking is somewhat trial and error, and you'll need to experiment with stacking options to find the best result.

Your other option is a Focus Merge, primarily designed for Macro shooting but it also may work for your images, again it's had to say without seeing them first, but I understand they're yet to be taken! You may want to use a focus merge as you can choose a source image and clone that to be the top layer, so you can effectively fix the sky from one image and not merge all cloud movements together. Videos on focus merging are as follows:

Focus Merging (Focus Stacking)

Unfortunately your panorama has not been posted correctly, could you try again for me? In terms of the iceberg image, a copy of the .afphoto file would be appreciated so I can see the documents layout and provide assistance :) 

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For some reason, I get the error 200 when I upload any image. They are well within the size limit. "There was a problem processing the uploaded file:-200"

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Dan, I uploaded both the photos to dropbox.

On the iceberg, I managed to clone stamp and got rid of the gap between the two photos I wanted to merge. However, I am struggling to move the iceberg directly over the hand.

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I'm sorry, could you possibly upload the .afphoto file of the iceberg image? I can't do as much with the jpeg only.

As far as I can see with the panorama, the shelves and countertop are as straight as they can be. You'll always see some stretching/curved effect when creating a panorama and this can be accentuated when indoors and with 'straight lines' in your image. I'd say the best tools if you want to change the image after stitching will be the mesh warp and perspective tool for further editing, but personally I believe the panorama looks good as it is (after being cropped square!)

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This is not a tech  question, but didn't know where else to post.

I am working with the trial version and the Serif site had a 30% promotion (no expiration date was displayed). The price now has gone back to $70 CAD. It was priced at $47.99 till yesterday. I was planning to buy the product when my trial expires. Is there any way I can get the $47.99 price so that I can buy it today?

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Unfortunately the discount price was for a limited time only, from the 11th of July to the 1st of August and this has now passed. My apologies for any inconveniences.

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15 hours ago, ravinat said:

When is the next promotion planned?

I'd be quite surprised if anyone here knew, and very surprised if they were allowed to release the information - would you buy something now if there was a better deal due in a week's time (or whenever)?


AP user, running Win10

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