Assistance Requested...help pls.

[Northern_99]

Well this is typical of my day. Tried to up load 2 pics, 12.9 mb & 13 .0 mb, both failed,oh-joy. Issue, shot a venue on Sunday. Conference halls are lit with LED panels. White Balance went Nuts,. Skin tones are either too blue or too Yellow/ Orange  ( I am in Asia )    Camera: Nikon D5600.  How does one compensate for the Leds?  Auto white Balance is hit and miss.  Things projected on the screen are a total write off.  ( read... text on the screen, reads to the eye, the camera, No.) Suggestions please, thanks . dave

[Gabe]

Hi @Northern_99,

Welcome to the forums. 

Although we do not officially support Nikon D5600, I tried loading a few samples and they are fine. We would need more details from you:

• What App did you try to load them into?
• What OS?
• What file format?

Thanks,

Gabe. 

[toltec]

19 hours ago, Northern_99 said:

Well this is typical of my day. Tried to up load 2 pics, 12.9 mb & 13 .0 mb, both failed,oh-joy. Issue, shot a venue on Sunday. Conference halls are lit with LED panels. White Balance went Nuts,. Skin tones are either too blue or too Yellow/ Orange  ( I am in Asia )    Camera: Nikon D5600.  How does one compensate for the Leds?  Auto white Balance is hit and miss.  Things projected on the screen are a total write off.  ( read... text on the screen, reads to the eye, the camera, No.) Suggestions please, thanks . dave

Unfortunately, you can’t upload images until you have made a few posts, which is a bit annoying for a newbie with a problem. I guess it’s a sort of security thing. Try making a couple of posts and then try uploading again.

If you are using Photo? I would suggest loading each photo into the Develop Persona. There is a white balance tool that works quite well if you have something that is neutral grey or white in the image. Just click on it, or click on several areas for an ‘average’ reading and Photo sets that grey (or white) to neutral. Officially, it should be white, but I found it works OK on neutral greys, with a bit of tweaking.

The advantage of that is that you can save the adjustment settings as a ‘preset’. Then even if the other pictures don’t contain a neutral colour, the preset will apply the same correction settings to each one. You might have to do a bit of final tweaking, but you should be close!

Unfortunately, if the white balance inside the camera kept getting it completely wrong and there is a lot of variation, presets won’t work. In conditions like that, best to turn the camera auto white balance off, take a few pictures of something white, then use that photo as a reference for the rest.

[Northern_99]

Thank you both.  The LED Refresh rate is an issue as is How I am viewing things.  As for the "Me Problem".  I may have a partial answer,after being up all night  I download to my laptop,( 15 " screen) and view to a Sharp 39" T.V. screen...but wait . My TV is on a transformer as it came here with me.Voltage is 220V 50Hz here,while  my set runs 120V 60 Hz.  There is a noticeable difference .   I spoke with the crew that was hired to shoot this event this afternoon, drove out there.

 They used Auto White balance with stills and video. No flash either. 

 They also shot at as low an ASA as possible. I was using ASA 100.( A priority)  ISO 2500. ( Jpeg & Raw).   When the Guest Speaker stepped under the LED lights,it was like he had a mirror on any exposed skin, reflections galore. A White/ Blueish cast to the skin. Add Blue to the White Balance in post an it gets exceptable some what.

Competition Grade ...NOT. 

 LED is the way ahead in lighting, How do we adjust?  Thank you for your time. Anything really bad goes B&W. ( How I miss Ilford Pan F)  dave

[carl123]

35 minutes ago, Northern_99 said:

LED is the way ahead in lighting, How do we adjust?  Thank you for your time.

If you are asking as regards your camera's setting it may be best to also post that question on some photography forums

If you still want advice on how to "recover" the pictures you have already taken, then you should try again to upload some samples here

[gdenby]

Hi, Northern_99,

I don't know about cameras, but it was part of my job to set up lighting in a fine art museum. I often worked closely w. the photographers. LEDs do not have a continuous spectrum. They emit a strong blue frequency light, which passes thru various phosphors which re-emit yellow and red lights, but the specifics of those depends on the manufacturer. They are not as bad as fluorescents, but still very unbalanced. In my museum work, it took nearly eight years to find LEDs which were good enoug. This was verified by the archival photographer, who was using a top end Nikon. It had a spectral display, and when a grey card was sampled under the LEDs and the best halogens we had, the LEDs won w. the most balanced spectrum.

So to correct the images you have, if you had the original spectrum (not likely I suppose), you would know which portions of the color curves to balance. Typically, cheap LEDs for area lighting still have a very strong blue component, a much reduced green, and almost no red. I've never become skilled enough in this sort of adjustment. Perhaps someone here knows how to add color to different ranges of the spectrum