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@R C-R and @owenr, I take your  points. I was just going on the general resizing recommendations.

Super-resolution is one of those things that look interesting and makes me think that I must try it some day. The problem seens to be in generating the subtle but non-zero displacement between each image. Perhaps a burst mode, hand held might do it.

John

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10 minutes ago, John Rostron said:

Perhaps a burst mode, hand held might do it

 

Petapixel.

Quote

The real trick is that we’ll shoot this set of exposures completely hand held. The subtle motion of our hand will actually act just like a sensor shift mechanism and allow different pixels to capture different parts of the scenes. It sounds simple but it actually works.

Once we’ve gathered all our images (I recommend shooting several scenes to get the hang of shooting so many photos at once) we can stack them, up-sample them, realign them and then filter their data with a statistical filter.

 

and...

Quote

When I first tried this technique, I tried using a tripod, taking a single image, and then tapping the tripod just the slightest bit to “shift” the “sensor” (i.e. the entire camera) before taking another image. Rinse and repeat. The problem with this technique is that, while it works, it takes a long time to take a lot of images and it’s difficult to keep the movements small enough.

I found it’s actually much easier and more practical to just set your camera to continuous burst mode and rattle off a bunch of handheld images. We don’t even need to try to intentionally move the camera to emulate the sensor shift as the natural instability of our hands is enough to make make the small shifts needed for superresolution compositing.

 

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21 minutes ago, John Rostron said:

The problem seens to be in generating the subtle but non-zero displacement between each image. Perhaps a burst mode, hand held might do it.

It probably would work about as well using a cheap, flimsy tripod -- or maybe even a good one with none of the head adjustments of the tripod locked down tightly, particularly if you are shooting with a medium or longer telephoto lens. Since it relies on a statistical averaging process, any method that produces a small amount of camera shake & a lot of sharply focused shots should work.

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8 minutes ago, R C-R said:

It probably would work about as well using a cheap, flimsy tripod

 

Or even an expensive, flimsy tripod! :P

 

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6 minutes ago, Alfred said:

Or even an expensive, flimsy tripod! :P

I might try it on my cheap (ancient) fairly robust tripod. However I think burst mode is the way to go.

John

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4 minutes ago, John Rostron said:

I might try it on my cheap (ancient) fairly robust tripod. However I think burst mode is the way to go.

 

It would be interesting to find out whether burst mode on a robust tripod (ancient or not) produces a useful result, but I’d be surprised if it did.

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7 hours ago, owenr said:

 

 

These new Photoshop steps you've posted are not the same as at the Petapixel site. Petapixel said that it is crucial to do the 200% scaling before the alignment, but your new example says to do the alignment before the 200% scaling.

 

I told you how to do the Petapixel method with Affinity Photo. AP does not have a means to auto-align a stack that has already been loaded with no alignment, so you'll need to do the 200% scaling to all your images before loading a stack with auto-alignment enabled.

 

Here it is again, and you must do the 200% nearest neighbour resampling at the correct step of the process:

  1. First develop all your raw files with the same development settings. (Batch raw development in AP is crap, to put it simply. If you are using AP to develop your raw files, do them one at a time, but using the same settings for all.)
  2. Export each developed image to a lossless image format such as PNG or TIFF, with scaling by 200% (width and height) and nearest neighbour resampling.
  3. Do File > New Stack, with Automatically Align Images enabled, and choose all of the upscaled image files.
  4. You'll have a new AP document containing a stack of aligned images.
  5. Set the stack mode to mean (or median to reduce ghosting caused by moving objects) to produce an averaged image.
  6. Optionally, try sharpening the resulting image.

 

Thank you

 

So I'm at your 6. step - what do you recommend in terms of saving the final result? Export to TIFF/PNG (file is very big 60/70mb) or JPEG?

 

 

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1 hour ago, Alfred said:

It would be interesting to find out whether burst mode on a robust tripod (ancient or not) produces a useful result, but I’d be surprised if it did.

Likewise, burst mode on a wobbly tripod mount probably would not produce a useful result. But a quick series of manual shots might if you were using a conventional (not mirrorless) DSLR because each time the mirror swings up for the shot & comes back down afterwards might produce just enough camera vibration to get the required variation in the shots. This probably would work better with some cameras than others, perhaps with the cheaper less expensive ones with less mirror damping having the edge?

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2 minutes ago, R C-R said:

But a quick series of manual shots might if you were using a conventional (not mirrorless) DSLR because each time the mirror swings up for the shot & comes back down afterwards might produce just enough camera vibration to get the required variation in the shots. This probably would work better with some cameras than others, perhaps with the cheaper less expensive ones with less mirror damping having the edge?

But my ancient Sony A55 has a fixed, translucent mirror, so, I shall have to emulate mirror shake by hand. When the wind stops shaking all the plants in my garden, I shall give it a go.

John

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CPU: AMD A6-3670. RAM: 16 GB DDR3 @ 666MHz, Graphics: 2047MB NVIDIA GeForce GT 630

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9 minutes ago, John Rostron said:

But my ancient Sony A55 has a fixed, translucent mirror, so, I shall have to emulate mirror shake by hand.

Speaking of emulation, I wonder if some of the latest high end smart phones have enough processing power to create super resolution photos automatically. Since they also have 3 axis accelerometers & other features that could be used to track camera & subject movement over time, it seems like they might be well suited for this.

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33 minutes ago, dutchshader said:

not a smart Phone, but i think this one can. the light L16 52MP 

That looks like a very clever & capable way to combine specialized hardware & software to achieve very high effective pixel resolution in a compact package. But what I like about the smart phone idea is, even though I am sure it can't match this camera in that respect, it seems doable without adding much if any additional cost to the high end phones already on the market.

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38 minutes ago, owenr said:

 

That's entirely your decision. If you are discarding the original raw files and the Affinity stack document, then you might want to keep a losslessly compressed TIFF or PNG super-res image since you'd never be able to reconstruct it in full quality again.

 

So I tried to follow your steps.

 

1st attachment - 1/7 original raw files

https://www.dropbox.com/s/kr2icmgv3bi8g02/JPG PNG.zip?dl=0 - exported JPEG and PNG file (200mb) 

 

Do you notice any difference?

 

 

 

 

 

DJI_0146.DNG

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10 hours ago, owenr said:

 

 

These new Photoshop steps you've posted are not the same as at the Petapixel site. Petapixel said that it is crucial to do the 200% scaling before the alignment, but your new example says to do the alignment before the 200% scaling.

 

I told you how to do the Petapixel method with Affinity Photo. AP does not have a means to auto-align a stack that has already been loaded with no alignment, so you'll need to do the 200% scaling to all your images before loading a stack with auto-alignment enabled.

 

 

 

I understand. The guy who sent me these instructions accomplished crystal sharp images like this one (dropbox links attached) with the same camera/drone

 

So he must have also accomplished it but unfortunately he doesn't have experience with affinity.

 

Interesting is also that his files are much smaller than mine

 

https://www.dropbox.com/s/lqbkuwhtguom3ri/name1.jpg?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/a01so012pf2pt9r/name2.jpg?dl=0

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12 minutes ago, dronecrasher said:

5ac3a358729f6_ScreenShot2018-04-03at16_49_56.png.9fe947eb4058181afda7249acf93c91e.png

 

Cool images though.

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This is slightly off-topic, but while reading this discussion and researching image stacks on Affinity Photo I noticed that the Help for creating an image stack states that if you don't select automatic alignment of the layers when you create the stack you can "manually align them later using the layers panel."

 

Question: how would one do that alignment using the layers panel?

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1 hour ago, walt.farrell said:

This is slightly off-topic, but while reading this discussion and researching image stacks on Affinity Photo I noticed that the Help for creating an image stack states that if you don't select automatic alignment of the layers when you create the stack you can "manually align them later using the layers panel."

 

Question: how would one do that alignment using the layers panel?

With great difficulty! Not too difficult for just a few, but super-resolution stacks are typically much bigger.

John

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3 hours ago, John Rostron said:

But my ancient Sony A55 has a fixed, translucent mirror, so, I shall have to emulate mirror shake by hand. When the wind stops shaking all the plants in my garden, I shall give it a go.

I have just taken a 16-shot burst and stacked them. However, I then remembered that I had image stabilization switched on, which somewhat defeats the objective! I shall try again tomorrow.

John

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CPU: AMD A6-3670. RAM: 16 GB DDR3 @ 666MHz, Graphics: 2047MB NVIDIA GeForce GT 630

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12 minutes ago, John Rostron said:

With great difficulty! Not too difficult for just a few, but super-resolution stack are typically much bigger.

:D

I meant, how, as in what's the process? I don't see anything in the layers panel specifically related to doing alignment. Or does the Help just mean: select a layer, and use the Move tool or the Transform panel to move it around until it lines up?

When it says "use the layers panel to perform the alignment" I was looking for some kind of "align" command available via that layers panel, but I don't see one.

But yes, "with great difficulty" seems like an appropriate response. Thanks!

-- Walt
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17 minutes ago, walt.farrell said:

I meant, how, as in what's the process? I don't see anything in the layers panel specifically related to doing alignment. Or does the Help just mean: select a layer, and use the Move tool or the Transform panel to move it around until it lines up?

Yes, just that. I am not aware of any other tricks. Obviously you need to reduce the opacity of the layer you are moving.

John

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CPU: AMD A6-3670. RAM: 16 GB DDR3 @ 666MHz, Graphics: 2047MB NVIDIA GeForce GT 630

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15 minutes ago, John Rostron said:

I am not aware of any other tricks. Obviously you need to reduce the opacity of the layer you are moving.

 

One trick you can use for alignment of overlapping edges when manually creating a panorama is to set the blend mode of the upper layer to ‘Screen’. I don’t see why the same trick wouldn’t work for aligning a stack of images, but I haven’t actually tried it! (Don’t forget to change the blend mode back to ‘Normal’ when you’ve finished.)

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@dronecrasher You've sparked my interest in this subject and its techniques so, just out of curiosity, what drone and camera do you use for these cool images?

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