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AP - Orion


Soul

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Hi all,

 

I'm quite new to this whole photography thing...

 

I'm really interested in nighttime photography, experimenting with different exposure lengths etc. and I had a go at shooting star constellations, in this case Orion.

 

I just want some honest (not too honest!) feedback about the photo. it's a single shot, so appreciate there is a lot of noise in it. On AP, I played around with the exposure levels, temperature, contrast.

 

Thank you

 

Soul

post-35540-0-41628700-1486648794_thumb.jpg

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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0JSTF8SGi4If your camera allows timed shots you might be interested in this method too 

Skill Level: Beginner, digital photography, digital editing, lighting.

Equipment: Consumer grade. Sony Nex5n, Nikon D5100, (16MP sony sensors)

Paid Software: Affinity Photo, Affinity Designer, Lightroom4

Free Software: NIK collection, Sony CaptureOne9, Cyberlink PhotoDirector6, Hugin, ImageJ, MS Ice, Davinci Resolve

Computer: Win10 home, CPU Skylake I7-6700, GPU Saphire HD7850 1G, Plextor SSD

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Try using the stacking features to remove the noise. There are tutorial videos on this. Shoot in burst mode to generate lots of source images which AP then uses to "average"' out the noise... looks good fun r a first attempt!

 

Hi all,

 

I'm quite new to this whole photography thing...

 

I'm really interested in nighttime photography, experimenting with different exposure lengths etc. and I had a go at shooting star constellations, in this case Orion.

 

I just want some honest (not too honest!) feedback about the photo. it's a single shot, so appreciate there is a lot of noise in it. On AP, I played around with the exposure levels, temperature, contrast.

 

Thank you

 

Soul

2021 16” Macbook Pro w/ M1 Max 10c cpu /24c gpu, 32 GB RAM, 1TB SSD, Sonoma 14.4.1

2018 11" iPad Pro w/ A12X cpu/gpu, 256 GB, iPadOS 17

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Well ronnyb I don't agree

I actually tried this approach

 

Is it better to expose correctly in camera and then tweak afterwards or is it better to bump the ISO and shoot more pictures in the same timeframe (which is limited because of star trails occurring).

 

My result was that the in camera version was quite a bit ahead of the stacked version in noise and color.

 

A high ISO limits the dynamic range of the camera, at least this would explain my results.

 

Maybe there is some sweet spot in between which I have not found yet.

Afterall it is easy to just try it for yourself.

 

Anyway

If time does not matter and you can use the same optimal low ISO settings and shoot more pictures and then stack then, it's perfekt.

 

Cheers

 

 

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Hey @MBd that makes sense, the stacking features's "success" is a function of the quality of the source images AND the number of images to average. If the source images are low quality - as they would be in burst mode for night sky images - then we're introducing more noise. I still wonder if running something ridiculous like 100 or 200 burst images thru the stacking features would yield enough data to average out the high ISO noise in the sky while keeping the stars. How many images have you tried it with?

2021 16” Macbook Pro w/ M1 Max 10c cpu /24c gpu, 32 GB RAM, 1TB SSD, Sonoma 14.4.1

2018 11" iPad Pro w/ A12X cpu/gpu, 256 GB, iPadOS 17

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Hey @MBd that makes sense, the stacking features's "success" is a function of the quality of the source images AND the number of images to average. If the source images are low quality - as they would be in burst mode for night sky images - then we're introducing more noise. I still wonder if running something ridiculous like 100 or 200 burst images thru the stacking features would yield enough data to average out the high ISO noise in the sky while keeping the stars. How many images have you tried it with?

It has been a while

I think between 20 and 30 but I really doubt that the ISO regions which you would have to enter to get 200 shots would give you anything than black an white image tonaly :D

I was at around ISO 12 000 on an aps-c body I think.

 

Cheers

 

 

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