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Hi, there are certain features that can be quite taxing. The main one to look out for is using Live Filters (especially convolutions like blurring/sharpening) with large parameter values: for example, a live Clarity filter with a 100px radius. If you start adding multiple live filters in your layer stack this can begin to slow things down, especially if you're working in 16-bit. Be especially mindful about adding live filters to vector layers (that's really asking for trouble!).

 

To mitigate this, you can either use the destructive versions of these filters (from the Filters menu), or make use of Merge Visible, which will produce a flattened raster layer of your current progress at the top of the layer stack. It's like Flatten, except you can still go back and manipulate your layers underneath in the layer stack.

 

As mentioned above, processing in 16-bit precision is more demanding than 8-bit. If you don't need to make use of 16-bit, you may as well edit in 8-bit and get faster performance.

 

Hope that helps!

Product Expert (Affinity Photo) & Product Expert Team Leader

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https://forum.affinity.serif.com/index.php?/topic/21222-rasterizing-algorithm/?p=99188

but the merge visible reduces the quality if you work from there, right?

 

No, shouldn't do, it's just a merge of what is being rendered. You're still working with uncompressed raster information at whatever precision you're editing in (8/16-bit). However, if you deliberately clip the image's tonal range using an adjustment, filter or pixel layer then merge, you won't be able to get that back unless you go back to using the original image underneath.

 

Your query in that thread seems to be related to the resampling used when transforming layers. It's likely bilinear or bicubic: lanczos would be slower, and might introduce aliasing/ringing as it's sharper. You don't need to rasterise the pasted layer once you've transformed it - even if you did, there shouldn't be any difference in quality. The whole point of Photo's live workflow is that you don't need to rasterise scaled layers like that!

 

Regarding the merge visible and Photo still rendering layers underneath a merged layer, this seems to be true as of 1.4.2 - will let you know if there's progress here.

Product Expert (Affinity Photo) & Product Expert Team Leader

@JamesR_Affinity for tutorial sneak peeks and more
Official Affinity Photo tutorials

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thank you james let me try to clarify something about 8 bit or 16 bit precision. I have been printing at 8 bits on a very glossy celulose paper with great outputs and loads of ink savings. Is there any advantage editing in 16 bits in this case ???? (apart from saving a file you can use on a more demanding paper like 100 % cotton where 16 bits makes a big difference obviously everything would speed up at 8bits but what would I be loosing during editing? visually is there any loss? thanx again

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thank you james let me try to clarify something about 8 bit or 16 bit precision. I have been printing at 8 bits on a very glossy celulose paper with great outputs and loads of ink savings. Is there any advantage editing in 16 bits in this case ???? (apart from saving a file you can use on a more demanding paper like 100 % cotton where 16 bits makes a big difference obviously everything would speed up at 8bits but what would I be loosing during editing? visually is there any loss? thanx again

It's all relative, most people would argue that there's no advantage in using a 16-bit printing path unless you have a printer that supports it - and even then, improvements may be negligible. Some say gradations in the print are smoother; your mileage may vary.

 

 

16-bit precision is recommended if you're doing lots of gradient work and/or heavy tonal adjustments, where the extra precision can be put to good use. Good rule of thumb is that if you're seeing noticeable banding when working in 8-bit (perhaps if you're using gradients with blend modes), you should try using 16-bit.

 

 

It's worth bearing in mind that if your source image is a JPEG, that will be 8-bit. To make the most of 16-bit you'd ideally want to start with developing a raw file, as they're usually 12/14-bit precision.

 

 

Another reason to use it might simply be just because you can: if you find the editing speed and larger file sizes acceptable then there's no disadvantage to maintaining a 16-bit path, only potential advantages in the future. My work all comes from raw files and I stay in 16-bit throughout the whole process, never had any issues with it. Hope that helps!

Product Expert (Affinity Photo) & Product Expert Team Leader

@JamesR_Affinity for tutorial sneak peeks and more
Official Affinity Photo tutorials

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