stitch

[willy]

how can I stitch 2 photos in AP?

 

[MEB]

Hi willy,

Welcome to Affinity Forums :)

Go to menu File ▸ New Panorama..., Add the images you want to stitch and click Stitch Panorama.

[don@donsmaps.com]

I have tried to use Affinity for creating a new panorama, and it often does not work, the images are not able to be stitched by affinity. Occasionally it works, but more often than not it does not. 

 

Yet when I use Panorama Maker 5, it stitches just fine. Even Photoshop will often work to create a panorama when Affinity does not. 

 

Is there some way of setting the hot spots for stitching so that Affinity has a better chance of stitching the photos?

 

Don

[don@donsmaps.com]

So, nobody knows the answer to my question?

[MEB]

Hi Don,

If Affinity isn't able to stitch them it's probably because the overlapping areas are tool small or lack details to be able to process the panorama. It may also have trouble if you move from your original position between shots leading to different angles in the photos. Each software uses it's own algorithms to perform the stitching so while some panoramas may be processed successfully in some, they may also give problems when using others. You can find a few Shooting tips in the Help ▸ Affinity Photo Help ▸ Panorama Persona ▸ Stitching Panoramas, Shooting tips section.

 

Maybe you should change your username or at least remove the e-mail part to avoid spam?

[don@donsmaps.com]

Thanks for your response. There is plenty of overlap, and good detail in the original photos, given the low ambient light. 

 

 

You can see the results of using Panorama Maker 5 at the link below, each of the photos consists of two overlapping photos, with ***lots*** of overlap. Affinity could not do most of them. Photoshop could do a few. Panorama Maker 5 never ever spat the dummy, I always got a good stitch. 

 

http://donsmaps.com/madeleinetools.html

 

The originals were 12 megapixels each, the stitched and (minimally) cropped panoramas are typically around 16 megapixels. 

 

 

 

the shooting tips you pointed me to are:

 

Shooting tips

• Where possible, use either a tripod or fast shutter speeds to avoid motion blur; blurry subjects will produce poor results when stitching.
• Keep your exposure settings (shutter speed, aperture, ISO, white balance) identical between shots to produce a consistent result.
• Try to avoid shooting at extreme wide angles as this will introduce lens distortion. If you are using a typical zoom kit lens (eg 18-55mm), try zooming in to its maximum focal length.
• Always shoot from the same vantage point for best results.

 

The photos are not able to be duplicated, I took them of cabinets of archaeological material in Europe in 2008,  2014 and 2015 and to be frank they could not be done any other way than described below. There is no way to use the same vantage point, you need the lens flat against the glass of the display cabinet to avoid glass reflections and to avoid camera shake in the (almost always) poor lighting in museums,  tripods are often banned in museums, (visitors trip over them, and they block the often narrow corridors) and flash is banned almost universally, the British Museum in London being an honourable exception. 

 

So you take a photo, move the camera  down (usually) and/or sideways. Repeat. Use the lowest ISO available on the camera, 80 or 120 or whatever for best results if there is sufficient light. Compromises must often be made. Doing this you can get, for example, excellent photos at very high pixel counts of a lengthy object like an Egyptian  mummy sarcophagus. . 

 

If you took from the same vantage point, which I agree is what you should do when taking a panorama of a scene (stand in the one spot, keep the horizon in the middle of the frame, rotate, leave plenty of overlap, better yet use a tripod) you would get totally unacceptable reflections from the glass, and poor comparative size rendition of the stone tools at the ends of the panorama. I've done the tripod thingy when taking 360 degree panoramas inside churches and so on, where you can then get a file which allows you to swing around to look at various parts and zoom in or out at will. 

 

What I am saying is that other programs are able to stitch the photos I have taken from museums with no problems, but Affinity usually can't. There have been no photos that Affinity could stitch, but Panorama Maker 5 could not. 

 

Thanks for your concern, but my username/email is on hundreds of my archaeology web pages, in the clear. It bounces to my gmail account.

 

I get maybe twenty spams a day in my gmail spam folder, so it is not a problem. Gmail has a great spam filter, and it is getting better.

 

I guess what you are saying is that affinity can't do the job.

 

Not a problem, thanks for your time.