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Greetings all,

I know the negative to positive conversion topic has been discussed ad-nauseam.  But this is a bit different.  Please stay with me on this one.  Here are my first steps:

1.  Bring in the color negative MF0226_Neg.png below

2.  Sample the rebate color to remove the orange cast (MF0226_rebate) and create a fill layer filled with the rebate color.  Then change the fill layer blend mode to divide which yields MF0226 Neg and Rebate below.  The rebate has been neutralized leaving only a negative without the cast.

3. Then I use the Invert command from the Adjustment Layers which flip the neg to a pos (MF0226_Inverted).

NOW here is the problem:  I have an overall blue cast that cannot be balanced out.

I did process this Ektar 100 film at home using CineStill chemistry.  The chemistry was new and just mixed.  I checked and rechecked my mixing volumes and temperatures - all OK.

Any ideas?

Jeff MF0226_Neg.png

Jeff MF0226_rebate.png

Jeff MF0226Neg and rebate.png

Jeff MF0226_Inverted.png

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Far from ideal, but I had a play with HSL, Curves, Shadow & Highlight and Lens Filter adjustments etc. I'm sure it's possible to get better results, but at least it shows that you can get rid of most of the blue cast.

(FWIW, I rarely scan colour negs nowadays, but, when I do, I usually find the scanning software does a better job of getting rid of the colour cast than I can do manually!) RBC1.png

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Wow Paul.  That's a whole lot closer to what is really in the picture than what I had!  I really appreciate your effort!  Would you agree with my workflow use?  I figured that if I could cancel the rebate  cast, I would be very close when I inverted.  Obviously not; but thanks for pointing the way with the tools you used.  Now I can play some more in hopes of better results.  

 

By The Way: I did do a google search on the topic; and many people have had the bluish/cyan cast on their converted negs from CineStill chemistry.  I'm not a chemist so I can only do research on a layman's level.

Cheers and thanx again!

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1 minute ago, NathanC said:

This was my attempt from using a combination of a HSL adjustment to decrease the overall saturation, selective colour on red to increase cyan and curves. It is quite washed out though.

image.png

Thanks Nathan!  It is close though.  Paul also gave it a go as well.  Results do show the pic a bit washed out; but the negative looks OK under the loupe on the light table by itself.  I/we have so many variables going on here with scanning to inversion that I can't tell which step(s) contribute the most in the washed out result.

I must dig in pretty deep here and try different approaches so I can post some actual intellectual reasons for this.  Reasons that may help everyone get better final results from their color negs.  That; and if CineStill chemistry is just a bit off in temp and/or times.  Oh well, I'm now retired; and have the time to play and research.  Maybe I can find some answers that everyone can use.

Thanks again!

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1 hour ago, WhiteStone said:

Would you agree with my workflow use?  

I think you're starting out OK, but it does need a lot of extra "tweaking" to get a half decent result!

It's been twenty odd years since I developed any colour film, but, as I remember, even small variations in temperature/time could make a big difference to the final result. Of course, in the "old days", you could just correct any colour casts when printing the photos! 😉

Acer XC-895 : Core i5-10400 Hexa-core 2.90 GHz :  32GB RAM : Intel UHD Graphics 630 : Windows 10 Home
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Paul,

Yeah, I too, have been away from film for a long time; but recently decided to get back in a play around with it.  As you can see, it's proving to be quite a challenge!  More than I expected for sure.  But I love a good challenge; and I always look to a challenge as a learning opportunity.

Again, thanks for the help! If/when I get some real repeatable answers, I'll post them here.

Cheers!

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