Altering sewing patterns

[Sew Sassy]

I'm desperately hoping that someone can assist me with this. I'm a sewist, and using projectors to cast sewing patterns is a very cool advancement that has been taking off in the sewing community. There are a million reasons why it rocks (even if it can be hard to accomplish the initial setup and calibration), but I haven't been able to figure out how to do one critical thing in Affinity. I have both the desktop and ipad version, and I'd love a solution for either one (or both!!) There aren't really tutorials out there that address these things, so I've been getting increasingly frustrated. I've used a lot of Illustrator tutorials specific to pattern alteration and design, and unfortunately there are some things that don't translate from one to the other.

Can anyone tell me if there is a process that I can use to make pattern adjustments? Let me explain. Many companies now offer projector files for their sewing patterns, which is fantastic. However, any sewing pattern will always have adjustments that will need to be made in order to get a perfect fit. Most of these adjustments require manipulation of the paper pattern. You cut into it in certain ways and create little pivot points and move pieces of the pattern around. Even shortening pants or sleeves isn't straightforward, because you can't just lop two inches off the bottom. There's a specific shortening/lengthening line that you have to cut at. So you chop the leg piece and either remove some inches before taping it back together or add some inches using another piece of paper. This is my problem. I can't figure out how to cut sections out of the pattern and move them around.

Here's a current example. I usually have to make what is called a Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) for most patterns in order for them to fit me properly. There is a specific way it has to be done so that you don't accidentally alter sections of the pattern that you shouldn't. I uploaded a screenshot from my ipad so you can see what I'm talking about. This is a basic tank top pattern, showing just three of the size layers. The three thin lines were added by me. The highlighted part of those lines is where I have to cut to change the pattern. So I would cut from the bottom, straight up the vertical line until I hit the crossroads, then I pivot and cut to the very edge of the higher angled line. The black circle I added is to indicate that I leave a little hinge there, so I can shift the pieces around. The horizontal line on the right hand side is cut from the outside of the pattern and in to the other black circle, which will also be a hinge.

Here is a graphic of how to do this step of the adjustment using a paper pattern, which probably shows it better than I could ever explain it.

Can anyone tell me how I can do this? Everything I read indicates needing to do some kind of break curve function, but that is literally ALWAYS grayed out and not able to be used. Both for the node and pen tools. In illustrator you just use the scissors and cut the pieces. Presto, they can now be moved around! Even better, I know that you can set specific anchors as the rotate point in illustrator. However, I cannot figure out how to do this in AD. Any assistance you can provide would be GREATLY appreciated! (Also, here's a link to the FBA tutorial if you need to see more graphics regarding what this looks like and the kind of things I need to be able to do. How to do a Dartless FBA – Petite Stitchery & Co.) 

[AllAppsUser]

You'll need to select (or create) a node using the node tool for the break function to become available.

[DM1]

3 hours ago, Sew Sassy said:

out and not able to be used. Both for the node and pen tools. In illustrator you just use the scissors and cut the pieces.

I may be off the track here about what you are trying to achieve, but have you tried Boolean to divide the pieces. Draw the desired cut lines, place layer above and selecting both layers choose Boolean Divide or Delete maybe.

[DM1]

4 hours ago, Sew Sassy said:

I know that you can set specific anchors as the rotate point in illustrator. However, I cannot figure out how to do this in AD.

You could use the Point Transform tool to select the rotation point. After selecting the rotation point hold 2 fingers on screen to lock scale while rotating.

If new to Designer, you might also like to check out the resources thread. I have placed a PDF copy of the Designer help file. It’s fully searchable and easy to browse. 🙂

[Sew Sassy]

@DM1 Thank you so much! I’m going to work through the resources you shared. I think I was getting overly frustrated and that did not help. (It’s never a good sign to be yelling at an app, “WHY WON’T YOU DO WHAT I WANT?!” 😂) I may circle back with more questions later, but this is a huge help!