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Need some help please and I will be specific.

Scanning C41 Negatives using my Nikon D600/D800 with a Sigma 105 1:1 macro lens to produce 6 stitched images of 4x5 C41 negative.

Scanning with fluid, AN glass and a sheet of optical mylar, the set up is as follows.

light source, raised AN glass (frosted side up) layer of fluid, negative emulsion side up, fluid, optical mylar.

DSLR shooting through the optical mylar and using live view highly magnified, focusing on the film grain. Lens at f8. 

file produced as RAW.

The results are stunning and we have compared the results to an Epson V750 and I have sold the Epson.

The questions is this;

Using Affinity Photo (Mac) how do I convert the C41 to colour without the orange cast?

I guess somewhere you need to sample the border strip and convert it from orange to blue as it is the base layer but other than this I have tried a few things and gone around in circles.

Black and white and E6 positives are obviously easy and no problem but this Orange Cast.....

Thank you very much for anyones time who replies.

kind regard

Graham.

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Hi DWright, thanks for the response.

Here is the scanned neg.

I have included some of the film rebate on the left hand edge for colour match purposes.

In another application I would have sampled the rebate colour, made a new fill layer with this colour, set blend mode to DIVIDE flatten layers and then clipped RGB B&W points to get in ball park then fine colour and other adjustments.

I cannot find any mode for layers in AF which equates to "Divide"??

Thanks again. (PS I know the neg has been light leaked damaged at the top)

Regards

Graham.

_DSC1698.tiff

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Here are some informations about negative inversion and different approaches to overcome an orange cast can be found here ...

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14 minutes ago, v_kyr said:

Here are some informations about negative inversion and different approaches to overcome an orange cast can be found here ...

Thank you for your advice but looking at all these posts they relate specifically to PS? I need some instructions please for Affinity Photo. Regards G

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27 minutes ago, Graham L Furlonger said:

I don't have that version, I only updated to V 1.8.6 yesterday?

It's available to you from the beta forum. For Affinity Photo on Mac, look at the pinned topic near the top:
https://forum.affinity.serif.com/index.php?/forum/19-photo-beta-on-mac/

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1 hour ago, Graham L Furlonger said:

Hi DWright, thanks for the response.

Here is the scanned neg.

I have included some of the film rebate on the left hand edge for colour match purposes.

In another application I would have sampled the rebate colour, made a new fill layer with this colour, set blend mode to DIVIDE flatten layers and then clipped RGB B&W points to get in ball park then fine colour and other adjustments.

I cannot find any mode for layers in AF which equates to "Divide"??

Thanks again. (PS I know the neg has been light leaked damaged at the top)

Regards

Graham.

_DSC1698.tiff 62.59 MB · 3 downloads

Ive uploaded the Image which took considerable time, @DWright please can you tell me why that was necessary? Thanks. Regards G

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Looking at the suggestions from @v_kyr, the first of these should easily apply to Affinity Photo. Just use Export instead of Save as.

John

Windows 10, Affinity Photo 1.10.5 Designer 1.10.5 and Publisher 1.10.5 (mainly Photo), now ex-Adobe CC

CPU: AMD A6-3670. RAM: 16 GB DDR3 @ 666MHz, Graphics: 2047MB NVIDIA GeForce GT 630

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3 hours ago, Graham L Furlonger said:

Thank you for your advice but looking at all these posts they relate specifically to PS? I need some instructions please for Affinity Photo. Regards G

There are many things where you just have to adapt then the described PS/LR or Gimp procedure for Affinity Photo, since on the net always most procedures are described for Adobe or other products.

In your case you can also try out the free Darktable which already has a negadoctor modul for such purposes. - See down this page (search on that page for "A new module : negadoctor").

negadoctor.thumb.jpg.f9b49313541237eb4b6829d1efe4506c.jpg

negadoctor-select-nb-color.png.001cc890d7f918f4df1ac66eb5866462.png

☛ Affinity Designer 1.10.8 ◆ Affinity Photo 1.10.8 ◆ Affinity Publisher 1.10.8 ◆ OSX El Capitan
☛ Affinity V2.3 apps ◆ MacOS Sonoma 14.2 ◆ iPad OS 17.2

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19 minutes ago, Graham L Furlonger said:

Thank you for all your help and posts BUT, no one has actually instructed me how to do this in Affinity Photo?

What about the following advice?

20 hours ago, John Rostron said:

Looking at the suggestions from @v_kyr, the first of these should easily apply to Affinity Photo. Just use Export instead of Save as.

 

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Affinity Designer/Photo/Publisher 2 for Windows • Windows 10 Home/Pro
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Had a play and got this...

For a while, I'd got a yellow cast at the top of the sky and near the bottom right on the water, adding the fill layer at 100% opacity and set to colour mode resolved that, colour was sampled from the left-hand edge. There would be some fine tuning but I'd say this is progress. The sharper was added to nip the edges a bit I'm sure that could be improved also.

image.png.330850fda92aeb67fecc0bc0e092c1f1.png

Tweak away...
_DSC1698 C41 Processing.afphoto

 

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31 minutes ago, Graham L Furlonger said:

Thank you, but where do I get the menu that displays the three eye dropper tools for black grey and white from?

Try the Whitebalace adjustment. - A Gimp example of how to remove the orange map from a negative scan, can be easily adapted to Affinity photo too here.

☛ Affinity Designer 1.10.8 ◆ Affinity Photo 1.10.8 ◆ Affinity Publisher 1.10.8 ◆ OSX El Capitan
☛ Affinity V2.3 apps ◆ MacOS Sonoma 14.2 ◆ iPad OS 17.2

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On the left is any attempt I try to get rid of the colour cast (How vivid were the colours in the original image?)
On the right is a black & white version

 

ship4.jpg

To save time I am currently using an automated AI to reply to some posts on this forum. If any of "my" posts are wrong or appear to be total b*ll*cks they are the ones generated by the AI. If correct they were probably mine. I apologise for any mistakes made by my AI - I'm sure it will improve with time.

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carl123, thank you so much for your time. I am still unsure how to do this myself?

No one has come back and told me where the white balance can be found with the three eye droppers as explained in the photoshop tutorial, and although I very much appreciate your time Carl123, I still have no idea what you did to get to this photo.

 

....OK I give up. really cant believe its this much hard work getting a simple answer.

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There is no such thing as the " three eye droppers as explained in the photoshop tutorial" in the Affinity software. These have been requested many times but we are still waiting for them

I used the Gimp example in the post above mine to get the image on the left.

I also tried various other suggestions in this thread but always got similar unsatisfactory results in trying to restore the original colours in the image

To save time I am currently using an automated AI to reply to some posts on this forum. If any of "my" posts are wrong or appear to be total b*ll*cks they are the ones generated by the AI. If correct they were probably mine. I apologise for any mistakes made by my AI - I'm sure it will improve with time.

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If you for example follow the above Gimp procedure I've referenced and adapt that in Affinity ...

Of course you can then further apply other adjustments to that then via additional whitebalance and curve tool settings etc. so it comes closer to how that shot initially once looked.

☛ Affinity Designer 1.10.8 ◆ Affinity Photo 1.10.8 ◆ Affinity Publisher 1.10.8 ◆ OSX El Capitan
☛ Affinity V2.3 apps ◆ MacOS Sonoma 14.2 ◆ iPad OS 17.2

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On 1/15/2021 at 2:53 AM, Graham L Furlonger said:

...OK I give up. really cant believe its this much hard work getting a simple answer.

You should really use Photoshop for this - the tools are better and there are plenty of tutorials, even books, you can learn from.

I took your scan for a short ride in Photoshop CC 2021. Could recover the middle section to some degree but there is light leak damage/aging on both top and bottom. A fair deal of work is required to make a decent color version of this image.

On images in a better condition the three eye dropper tools in Photoshop makes the workflow easy and fast. 

(But these images need more than quick corrections)

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ok, thank you for all your help.

by accident I found a real easy way to do this... might be helpful for anyone else?

I am not sure if it is the "correct" way, but it works for what I need and its quick!

 

Select "colour picker tool" onto the film rebate,

Select from main menu "LAYER" then "NEW FILL LAYER"

change the layer options of this new fill layer to "Difference"

Done!

Just needed to play with the colour sliders in "Adjustments' and "Colour Balance"

Done!

Thanks everyone.

PS I started photography at a very young age (5) here with a Coronet Flashmaster 120! (Circa 1950's) which I bought from a second hand shop with many weeks pocket money, LOL

 

Me_outside_with_camera_DSLR.jpg

Me_outside_with_camera.jpg

And here's the scanning setup I use. 

 

scan_rig.jpg

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  1. Has this image ever been printed correctly?
  2. Do you think there is an inherent fault in the negative, for whatever reason?
  3. Do you think there is a fault in your scanning procedure?

 

 

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8 minutes ago, Jowday said:

You should really use Photoshop for this - the tools are better and there is plenty of tutorials, even books, you can learn from.

I took your scan for a short ride in Photoshop. Could recover the middle section to some degree but there is light leak damage on both top and bottom. A fair deal of work is required to make a decent color version of this image.

On images in a better condition the three eye dropper tools in Photoshop makes the workflow easy and fast. 

I converted from PS and vowed never to return! Found a really quick way of doing it in Affinity Photo, and posted. Thanks Jowday for your input.

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