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Found 4 results

  1. Can you please post a beginning-to-end video of the various processes for developing/editing a RAW photo of the milky way? There are many photoshop instructional tutorials for this process, but I can find none for Affinity Photo. I much prefer to use Affinity, and I'm still somewhat inexperienced with photo editing in general. I want to invest my time in learning Affinity directly, rather than learning photoshop and then translating that experience to Affinity. Thank you for your help. I am attaching a amazon cloud link (the file is too large to upload here, 27MB) to a RAW file for you to use in a tutorial, should you agree to help. I voluntarily relinquish all rights to the linked photo. It is now public domain. https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share/ELVNzIxUzNWFk1twdvVOaHCkD0xWV24wuMhGgUGldRR?ref_=cd_ph_share_link_copy Thank you James
  2. Hi all I am new to Affinity and photo editing more generally. I have a few milky way and northern lights photos (in RAW) that I would like to process. I would be grateful if anyone could suggest the key tools to use (including any compatible plug ins) - I particularly like the lighting effect on the Affinity website of the northern lights. Many thanks Andrew
  3. Hello All, First attempt at Affinity Photo. I used a few tools in this example; Inpainting Brush Tool, Paint Brush Tool, and the Lighting Tool, amongst others. My favourite feature is definitely the lighting tool... So many possibilities! Hope you like it, and thanks to Callum for the help. Cheers, Adam
  4. Hello, In doing astrophotography, these two features are really essential. I really love using AP for editing, but it becomes nearly impossible to with astrophotography because it's missing these two features. Especially because AP has features like LAB, it could be a really great tool potentially - and I don't think (at least the median mode) is very difficult to implement. They're useful for stacking photos - when taking pictures of the night sky without a tracker, you're limited in the exposure length you can use, because the Earth is rotating. To get a useful picture, you really need an exposure with at least ISO 3200, making very noisy images. The solution is to take multiple pictures and align them in post, and then use a median filter to remove the noise (which is incredibly effective). It's useful for other things as well - basically any noise reduction. There are perfectly clear stacks of images taken at ISO 25,600 or higher - and the median filter can get rid of people walking in front of a landscape, for example. My point is, these are really useful features for everyone and could add a lot to the abilities of AP and make it a very appealing software for another group of photographers.
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