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Found 395 results

  1. Same file opened in both apps, colors are more saturated in AP than AD. The color space and profile are the same, I didn't change that. It's the same file. I can upload the file for inspection, just supply upload link. Thanks for all you do.
  2. It would be very useful to have functions to select the same: Color fill stroke (color / width) Appearance To quickly select all your outlines, or background element in 1 color. Speed is everything. :)
  3. Greetings, I know what you're thinking - "this guy didn't search the forums before posting"…. I actually have been researching extensively for several weeks now, including several similar posts in this forum, and I've concluded that either my situation is unique or I'm just more dense than your average user (these may not be mutually exclusive lol). So, as the title suggests, I am searching for guidance on color correction on underwater photos. I'll preface by stating I am NOT a photographer, so my knowledge of post-processing technique is frustratingly minimal. It is for that reason that I had previously just written off my failures, just accepting really dismal diving photos. That changed when I was recently introduced to an iOS app called "Dive+". On a whim, I decided to run its color correction function on several shots I had on my phone, and I was blown away by the results! In more than one case, I actually "discovered" fish and corals in my photos that were previously invisible! The ease with which the shots were transformed has inspired me to re-visit touching up many of my underwater shots, but as you can imagine - iOS is certainly not the best or most efficient environment to do it. Re-visiting all the tutorials and articles on the topic, however, has brought me right back to where I began - slightly less crappy photos and a lot of swearing. It seems the majority of the methods described in tutorials (even those for photoshop or other editors) just don't produce similar results for me as they do in the examples shown. For instance, the vast majority of underwater correction guides suggest beginning at adjusting white balance. In the examples, adjustments produce immediate color and contrast improvements, while my photos simply turn from "all blue" to "all green". Additionally, suggested techniques using levels invariably begin with minimizing black levels and maximizing white…. In all my photos, these positions are already selected (and moving them in opposite directions only worsens the output). While I'm certainly willing to tackle a mild-to-moderate learning curve, I have no aspirations of professional photography. What's nagging me is the ease with which this free phone app is able to drastically improve my photos, as well as my inability to determine exactly HOW it corrects the images so I can replicate the process. Below is a random photo from my collection that I hope will better clarify what I'm attempting (and failing) to achieve: This is my original photograph: This image shows the output from the Dive+ iOS app: Applying "Auto" White Balance to the image in AP makes no discernable difference. When manually selecting a neutral area (white dot indicates the area I selected) using the white balance "picker" as most tutorials suggest, a green overlay appears as shown below: This final image shows my sliders for the Levels adjustment layer. Note that the sliders for black/white levels are already at opposite extremes, negating the ability to adjust in the way most tutorials have suggested. The sliders for master/red/blue/alpha all have identical positions. I've attached the original photo in case anyone is feeling gracious enough to play around with it. The edits described above are certainly not the only ones I've tried - I've been playing with pretty much every setting I can find in photo, develop, and tone mapping personas. While I am able to make some minor improvements to my underwater shots, they still don't compare to the difference I get with one tap on the iOS app. Furthermore, the results are very inconsistent compared to the app. For instance, I have freshwater dive photos that have a green saturation in place of the blue shown in this example. Results from the app on those photos are equally impressive, yet the only similarity in my manual edits is the lackluster result. I'd love to know what type of algorithm this app is using so that I can create some type of similar macro or workflow for editing in AP. Heck, I'd even gladly pay to add Dive+ to my workflow if it were available on the desktop, but it is iOS/Android only. If anyone can offer guidance on what I'm doing wrong, or direct me to any tutorial resources that are Affinity-specific, I would greatly appreciate it! Sincere thanks in advance for any advice you have! Best, Kirk ***NOTE: I have no affiliation with the Dive+ app, nor any software mentioned. It is not my intention to present Dive+ as an alternative or competitor to Affinity Photo; my impression is that the latter is a much more capable product in the hands of a knowledgeable user (which I am obviously not!).
  4. Print colors wrong on Canon Pro 100 printer. I don't think it's the printer because it prints fine on everything else, such as Luminar, lightroom, and Faststone image viewer. The problem happens when I try and put Affinity in charge of the printing and select a Photo paper for my printer. I tried ICC paper profiles from Canon and Red River, in both cases the prints were off color. If I put Affinity in charge of the printing and choose sRGB IEC61966-2.1 everything looks fine. If I let the printer have control of the printing and set the paper profile in the Print Driver, it works fine. I could go on, but basically... if I put the app (Affinity Photo) in charge of the printing and select a paper ICC profile, the color goes bad on the printout. Unless Serif fixes this, the only solution is to not use paper ICC profiles or use another program that does. The Canon Pro 100 came with Print Pro and that seems to work except you need Lightroom or another Adobe product to use it as a plug in. Affinity doesn't allow Print Pro to be used as a plug in. Has anyone heard of a solution to this or that Serif is working on a fix? Before anyone asks... Yes, my monitor is calibrated, and Yes, if I don't use the paper profiles the color matches my screen. If the pictures load... The left sides are the originals and the right are the printed versions in Affinity using paper ICC profiles.
  5. Hello, I'm not sure if this is a feature or a bug. But the color toggles don't inherit from one file to another. Also eyedropper requires you to open the other file, which results in the color not eyedropping in the correct file. Edit: One workaround is to make a swatch table with the colors you need. Something I never used in Photoshop, but I guess the best option with the current workflow in Affinity. I made a video to demonstrate the bug\ feature. It's a bit of a time killer because if I have 10 files that use the same colors, I need to do alot of eye dropping over and over to get the colors I need. Video Thank you
  6. It would be nice if the color squares in the palette tab would be bigger so that it will be easier to select them with the cursor. I work on a smaller 13" screen, so it can be a bit difficult to select colors since the icons are so small.
  7. So here’s the deal, I paid the 20 euros to buy this app to edit on the go for my events. I noticed this weird kind of color effect on the app which makes the picture look cheap and fake, the opposite of what this app markets itself as. At first I didn’t bother, but them I opened Snapseed a FREE APP and I didn’t get that when I was editing the same picture. I attached the pictures of both so you can see. I didn’t mess with Affinity settings at all and you can see I have basically done the same thing om both apps. I turned exposure down, contrast and brightness a little bit up and saturation a lot. Also notice that ugly shine next to the lip which automatically came on even before I messed with the pictures settings but the same didn’t happen on Snapseed? Wth if this is what you call pro editing app i want my money back!
  8. I find it hard to understand the effects that color profiles have on the colors of images in Affinity Photo. A raw image opened in Photo looks de-saturated, compared to DXO and preview in Irfanview. The JPEG from the camera looks better, but less saturated than shown in other software, like Firefox, Paint.net and Irfanview. Perhaps some setting of Photo overrides the data from the image? When developing the image I assign the ROMM RGB profile. From what I understand this profile keeps the highest number of colors available during editing. Is this true? After making adjustments I export the image as JPEG to use on Instagram and my website: during export choose the sRGB color profile and embed it. Other software like the Windows Explorer preview, Windows Photos, Irfanview and Firefox show the exported image more saturated then I see during editing. first convert the image by changing the color profile of the document to sRGB. Then exporting it the same way. Now the image is also more saturated then shown in Photo, but less than in option 1. What do I need to do differently to have the colors of the exported image match the colors I see during editing? This happens on a Windows machine with the color profile of the display set to the profile that came with the monitor.
  9. I want to remove the white from this image, I've adjusted the Levels so the whites are completely white & blacks are completely black. I've gone to the selection tab & tried the 'Select sample colour' but i can't find a way to make it work. I've spent the last 3 hours looking at youtube tutorials, FAQ's & forums yet i have no idea what i'm doing right or wrong, please help.
  10. Please add this essential functions in AD: - Background fill colour and stroke colour/width for text boxes. - Convert text boxes back to vector object
  11. Is there a way to switch the brush colours back to the original black and white with "one" click?
  12. Hello, I just started using some smoke brushes from the Affinity store. The brushes are black. How do I change the color of the brush, so that I can change it into white? Thanks
  13. I am using v1.7.0.192 on mac and it has added a bunch of same colors into the swatch. I cannot delete these colors. What to do? I do not want to delete the entire pallet, just a few colors.
  14. When I develop the css of a website, I like copy / paste the hex code of a color. When I like a color, I copy it hex code for use in the new creations. Show hex code of the color and allow to copy it with 1 click, could be perfect. What do you think of that ?
  15. Hey everyone! In the top right corner, the color picker can be dragged to increase and decrease brightness. Personally, I am disabling the UI a lot (button next to color picker) and it would be helpful if there was an option to disable this feature to prevent unintentional color change. Best wishes, Shu
  16. I'm trying to touch-up my Drone photos, but they look horrible in Affinity Photo compared to Windows Preview or even Gimp Here, the original file has a very very smooth gradient coming from that lamp. But as soon as I open the file in Affinity Photo, the glow from the lamp turns in to blocky color bands.. It's almost like it tries to convert it to web-only colors or something because the quality is horrible. (below, you will probably see some banding in your web-browser, it's actually WORSE in Affinity Photo) Download this image and view it locally, to see it without banding. If you still see banding when you open it locally, sorry your monitor sucks
  17. Is there a way to copy a color value of an object to the clipboard for pasting in an CSS file, for example? I need to apply various RGBA values (RGB with alpha/transparency) and am tired of manually typing them for every object. OK, I just found the dropdown in the color panel where you can copy the currently selected color value as HEX. That might be useful sometimes but doesn’t help me in this case. Firstly, I need RGB(A), and secondly the color is applied as color overlay effect, not as standard background color. So, I wish I could just open any color panel and there would be a similar menu as in the color panel to copy a value in different variants.
  18. Can you convert from color to grayscale and/or black/white in Affinity Designer and/or Photo? This is very helpful for designing for the very few people who cannot see color in checking for background/foreground contrast.
  19. In the list view of the swatches pane any new swatch gets an auto-name with its defined values. Unfortunately these names don't auto-change when the color definition got changed by the user. This results in wrong swatch names, both for global and non-global swatches. To avoid wrong names the user has to rename any swatch manually after changing its color. To fix the name it needs several clicks to the manual renaming option window. Suggestions: – auto-change a swatch name when its color definition got changed – enable renaming on double-click the swatch name p.s.: in the actual renaming option window a hint appears: "This is not an undoable operation." – Why does it warn me that I can undo this operation?
  20. Hello DEVs First off, thanks again for great software, I've been sending ~250 portraits through it since I bought it, and I love how the application just simply replaced Photoshop Over to my "needs".. I really need some features from PS days, and I hope you guys see why. "Apply Image" in Affinity Photo is not alike PS CC's version of it. I used to use this often to grab an RGB, R, G or B. CMYK or C, M, Y, K or even LAB L, A or B from a layer, a document or a file on the disk, then "apply" it as a mask - inverted or not - on to the selected mask, usually in normal or luminosity mode. I even use it for blending K channel from a dublicate CMYK document in to actual documents RGB composite to enhance faint details which is almost lost. I also use it to mix one of the RGB channels from same document in to the worst channel to enhance the details and remove noise (usually B channel), its called luminosity blending, check out Lee Varis and Dan Margulis photoshop videos. I don't see this is possible in Affinity Photo with the current "apply image", and I wish I had the same blending options in it like default layers so it will be easy to fix a "bad" channel in a image Check video below in this post. I also wish I could set one of the info readouts to a default readout, LAB for example, because I use this more often than RGB or anything else. Left side could be document format. I can change to LAB right now, but it doesnt stick to next image. I love to be able to save my own defaults than white and gra. Every single time I use this I have to go and manually set left one to black and right to white anyway because I rarly use this on other things than masks. It is really annoying After pushing through those 250 portraits since I bought Affinity, I'm really getting tired to recheck "current and below", I never retouch on background or main pixel layers and wouldn't suggest anyone to do it either. Make a new layer then use the healing brush with "current and below" is the safest way to use it anyway, so could it be possible to have persistent settings on these as-well? Check next 5 minutes to see what I mean of luminosity blending: Thats all for now Best regards, Aleksander
  21. which tool to use to change color of parts of background to color of something else in photo? For example, there are streetlights, I want to paint them the color of the sky behind the lights. I am very new to the tool. I thought brush tool could do this but it seems like you have to choose a standard color and cannot choose one from photograph. Eraser? Please advise. Thank you! Larissa
  22. Hey everyone! I'm not sure if this happens when using other Affinity software, but when exporting to .psd, Photo on iPad deletes empty layers and a layer if it has solid color and is placed as last layer and sets its color as background color. Please don't assume empty layers could be deleted or a solid color layer should be converted to background color. This is quite inconvenient. Best wishes, Shu
  23. Hi! I am in the process of creating a new workflow for my portrait photography, using Affinity on iPad Pro, instead of PS on Macbook Pro. There is one of my PS procedures, for which I just can’t seem to find a substitute in Affinity. In PS I use the Color Adjustment layer, to shift a range of e.g. reds towards orange, and thus fix problematic red skin tones. The thing is, that you can use two sliders to finely tune the exact range of reds that you want to affect. Is there any way I can achieve the same in Affinity? (Using e.g. the whole RED channel is way to coarse.) Thanks
  24. Every time I try to change and replace the text's colour it crashes. I've converted it to curves but then I don't know where to change and replace the colour unless I select element by element manually or on the layer panel. Any tips until this bug is sorted? Thanks, IR
  25. Hello, it would be great to have a variable for the color space (RGB, CMYK, etc.) of the document for creating the name of a file and the path where it is saved. That would be useful for example for exporting logos in various color spaces, for print, web, etc...
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