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Found 32 results

  1. Greetings Readers, I have been photographing the moon to obtain ultimately 8 pictures depicting 8 phases. Presented today is my latest image: The Waning Gibbous Moon. This Waning Gibbous Moon appears opposite to the Waxing Gibbous Moon and both these moon images are displayed in this composite image. The second image shows these moon images as obtained from the camera raw files. Notice that the waxing moon is appreciably larger than the waning moon and this is because the moon is now further away away by 30,526km ! Tomorrow (10-07-20) will be the best time to obtain an image of the waning gibbous moon BUT it will be raining and the moon wil be away by a further 5000km. Well one cannot win them all. Jeremy.
  2. Greetings Readers, In collecting moon pictures to make a composite picture we received 5 very clear days and nights. On each night I took a picture of the moon and processed the images in Affinity Photo. These images show the waxing (getting brighter) moon on 5 consecutive evenings. The first (waxing crescent moon), third(first quarter moon) and fifth(waxing gibbous moon) seem good enough to include in my final composite picture. The top sequence contain the original images and the colour saturated version is the bottom sequence. Jeremy
  3. Greetings to All, Here is a picture of the moon to be included in my montage of moon phase images in colour. This image is short listed to be included in my montage of moon phase images in colour. All image processing was done in Affinity Photo (excellent program!) For those who are interested: The colour saturation was obtained in a 5 stage process (5 adjustment layers) of gradually increasing levels of colour saturation. This colour saturation process will amplify colour noise so one must start with a "low noise image. The low noise image was obtained by stacking 15 images (noise averaging - Greek letter Mu) to give about 4x improvement. For crescent images we might try stacking 25 images for an improvement of x5. I am trying to find a logical explanation for the green light over the craters. Regards, Jeremy.
  4. I am still learning my way through AP and have started re-working some of my old images which are now much improved vs my old editing techniques in PS Here is my 1st main attempt using AP This is IC5070 Pelican nebula in Cygnus tone mapped using Sii as Red, Ha as green and Oiii as Blue. 9x5min each colour channel. Stacked and aligned in Astroart, Initial stretching and development in Startools then colour re-combination, balancing, additional tone mapping and sharpening in AP. BTW - AP did these final stages in a fraction of the time PS takes. Clear Skies
  5. Hi all, this is my very first post on Affinity Forum and I have very little experience with Affinity Photo. I'm an astrophotographer and today I'ma trying to postprocess a Moon image to create a "mineral moon" image. I usually use an astrophotograpy dedicated software but now I want to try to process the image with Affinity. The very first step of mineral moon processing is perfectly white balancing the moon disk by aligning the RGB hystograms. In my case, as you can see in the attached picture (Image 01), the moon has a strong yellowish/pinkish color (due to some preprocessing I have done before) so I've tried to white balance. First I tried to use Filters-Color-Automatic white balance, but the result isn't good. (Image 02) Second I've tried with a color balancing layer, using the picker and tracing a rectangle on the moon surface with the ALT button pressed. Even in this case the color balance isn't correct: I still have a red excess (as you can see in the histogram) (Image 03) Only moving the sliders by hand I can get a decent result (Image 04 and image 05 after saturation), but I would prefer a more "automatic" method. Am I doing something wrong? Just for reference I've uploaded the result that I've obtained with the astrophotograpy software (where I have a lot of esperience). Thank you for help Edoardo Luca Radice
  6. Hey guys, as a first video on my new channel, I created a tutorial for a basic astrophotography editing workflow in Photo. Hope some of you will find this helpful - any feedback appreciated!
  7. Does anybody know how or if its possible at all to do star reduction in affinity photo?
  8. I am working with astro photos, converting the raw image to 16 bit TIFF images and stacking them. I have a few suggestions for you that would make my work smoother. I would be very grateful if you would implemented them. Suggestion 1: Would it be possible to change the default stack operator, like in the settings? I commonly use mean value rather than median value, and always have to correct it. Suggestion 2: Using Levels Adjustment, I have noticed that it is indeed possible to use decimal values for Black Levels, for instance 1.5 %, although this is not documented. This is very useful when working with 16 bit images. However, the value shown will always be the rounded integer value, in this case 2, even when the decimal value is used. Would it be possible to show a decimal digit, at least for levels below 10% ? Like, it would show 1.5% as the decimal value 1.5% instead of the integer value 2%. Suggestion 3: When working with astro photos it is very common to first subtract the dark current image, and then divide with a flatfield image. Subtraction is easy to do using the Subtract mode, but how to perform division is not so easy to find. By googling I have found that division is indeed possible to do by adding the flatfield image layer, adding an Invert Adjustment layer to it, and then changing to Colour Dodge mode. Since this is a "hidden" feature, would it be possible for you to simply combine these two steps into one, and name it Divide mode? A good reason for this: Any serious astro photographer who fails to find this hidden feature when searching the current documentation, and mistakenly rejects the usefulness of Affinity Photo because of this, would be pleasantly surprised to find that the feature does exist. P.S. I am currently using Affinity Photo 1.8.2 on a Mac.
  9. For the last three months Nik Szymanek, a renowned astrophotographer, has been running Affinity tuition specifically relating to astrophotography in a magazine called Astronomy Now. Published in Britain it's probably widely available elsewhere but, if you're interested, you can get back numbers by mail order. His enthusiasm for Affinity is what drew my attention to the software. I've just been playing with the trial version using his advice and am pretty impressed.
  10. Can you please post a beginning-to-end video of the various processes for developing/editing a RAW photo of the milky way? There are many photoshop instructional tutorials for this process, but I can find none for Affinity Photo. I much prefer to use Affinity, and I'm still somewhat inexperienced with photo editing in general. I want to invest my time in learning Affinity directly, rather than learning photoshop and then translating that experience to Affinity. Thank you for your help. I am attaching a amazon cloud link (the file is too large to upload here, 27MB) to a RAW file for you to use in a tutorial, should you agree to help. I voluntarily relinquish all rights to the linked photo. It is now public domain. https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share/ELVNzIxUzNWFk1twdvVOaHCkD0xWV24wuMhGgUGldRR?ref_=cd_ph_share_link_copy Thank you James
  11. Hi all, Here the result of a long night chasing the last milky way for this year. It is a stack of 42 shots edited in Affinity photo with develop persona, plus other 2 for the foreground and the person (that's me!) shooting light to the universe. Sky has been stacked in sequator software, than the compositing has been done in AP, with all the fine tune required. 2 little problem found: - developing raw one by one it takes a long time; a method to apply raw settings to the entire group would be very usefull - TIFF exported from AP have something wrong. I faced several errors with them and I don't know why. It seems something well known… (using JPG everything went smooth, but I lost the 16 bit and you know, jpg… bah…) However, here the final result. Hope you like it. Have a great week end, see ya! G:
  12. Now that I have made the switch to AP I am re-working many of my astrophotography macros. I will share them here with brief instructions and encourage others to share theirs. All my macros are for Windows OS This set of 3 takes the basic individual monochrome filtered R G and B images and converts each into a colour channel. Load each RGB file separately into AP, Run the respective macro and copy the output of each into a single AP layered document, then set the blend mode of each to add This will output a single RGB non white balanced file grey to blue.afmacro grey to green.afmacro grey to red.afmacro
  13. Hi all, I'm trying to figure out if Affinity can do what I need as is. Here is a video where Peter Zelinka describes the process using Photoshop and a plug-in. "Star Tracker Blending Tutorial - Using Luminosity Masks" https://youtu.be/x2dVRoyyFrc Basically, he takes a stacked image of the milky way and merges it with the foreground shot. As you may know, start trackers track the sky so you get clear focused starts, but that blurs the landscape. In this case, he takes two perfect images and merges them together. What I'd like to know is, can I do this using Affinity Photo? If so, can you point me to a video or text that explains the process. Thank you so much in advance!
  14. Captured and colorized an image of the nearly full moon, then used the mirror effect to convert the moon into a mandala.
  15. The following are edited from RAW files from the Nikon D5300.
  16. Hi Affinity-Team, I have just downloaded the affinity photo demo (for Windows), watched some tutorials and tried a little bit for myself and have some questions. I like to take photos of starry landscapes like the ones I attached to this post. Now to reduce noise I'd like to stack them for which I am currently using a combination of Hugin for alignment and Image Magick to stack them. I let these tools create two stacked images one of the static foreground and one of the aligned background, after that I currently use Gimp to load both images and take only the sky portion of the aligned and stacked image for the final images sky and the stacked image without aligning for the foreground. I tried to convert this complete workflow to affinity photo using the "New stack" function. Unfortunately the program always aligns the images (I use a stack of 32x20 second exposures) using the trees in the foreground which leads to a blurry sky without any stars visible. Is there a way of alternating this behavior? I thought about (and tried) loading the images as stack, ungroup them, applying a layer mask which leaves only the stars visible and then regroup them using 'Arrange > Live Stack Group', however this doesn't (re-)align my images and the result is the same as when loading the images as stack. Is there any possibility for me to support my workflow in affinity photo, or is anything planned for future releases? Greetings and thanks in advance.
  17. Hello, I recently took images of the night sky and my camera has quite a lot of Hot Pixels when doing a long exposure. I recorded Dark Frames with the exact same settings and I want to know: How do I process them? Is there a way to efficiently remove hotpixels? Does anyone have advice in general? Felix
  18. Hi everyone I have recently expanded my photographic hobby into astrophotography. Some time ago I watched a tutorial on the stacking feature in Affinity and thought I would give it a crack with some images I've taken in the last three or four weeks. I have to say that I am very happy with the the very first images I took and ran through Affinity. The process is somewhat quicker than dedicated stacking programs for astro but the results (for me) are very very satisfying. I thought that perhaps those that are interested could post their images and discuss different processing techniques that they have used. So I guess I'll get the ball rolling with my first astro edited with Affinity Clear skies D
  19. A composite of the Blood Moon of 2019.01.20,21 made of a focus stack of the full moon and an exposure stack taken during max umbra
  20. I have been doing some processing of astrophotography data. These files usually originate as FITS files which are the raw data files from the telescopes. I process the files using Liberator 3 which then saves the FITS files as TIF files (8, 16, or 32 bit). When I open the saved TIF files in Photo they have large rows switched around or have data that is off the page and missing. When I open the same TIF file in Photoshop the files appear normal. I can then re-save the TIF files out of Photoshop and then Photo opens them correctly. This is on Photo running on Windows 10. Here is a sample TIF file that was saved out of Liberator. When I open this specific file in Photo the image is moved up off the document area and the top part is missing. I can post screen grabs of the errors if other people are not getting the same thing when opening this file. Thanks for any assistance! http://www.spacetelescope.org/projects/fits_liberator/ The file is an image of the Eagle Nebulae if anyone was wondering. 502nmos.zip
  21. Unless I'm missing something on Vimeo, I haven't seen anything from Affinity on developing milky way photos, which I assume is kind of a common task. It's also something I'm terrible at so far, both with Affinity and Rawtherapee. So I'd love to see an official video, or even a series on developing milky way shots to bring out the color, and developing astro photos in general.
  22. Hi All, I'm new to astrophotography and to Affinity Photo. I'm currently using the 10day trial but so far have been impressed by the software. I am experimenting with stacking multiple photos. I am using the Starry Landscape Stacker which seems to only use .tif files. I need to convert my RAW exposures to .tif before I can upload them to the program. The output file is also .tif. The output image is beautifully stacked - the stars are pinpoint and any noise largely reduced. My problem is this: I would like to upload the output image to Affinity Photo, but when I open it the image appears scrambled and off colour, a complete mess really. When I open it in Photoshop, it is as I expect it and also when i open it in Quick View on Finder. The problem seems to be with Affinity Photo? As I am new to this type of photography and to Affinity Photo I would like to check if there is something I am doing incorrectly. I explored trying to save the final image in Starry Landscape Stacker in a different format, but it seems that it only saves it as a .tif. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated. Or is there another free stacking app I could use? I attach screenshots of what the same image comes out in Photoshop and in Affinity Photo. Thanks Very Much Soul
  23. Hi, I saw this thread in the forum regarding a problem with Affinity reading TIFF files generated with FitsLiberator. https://forum.affinity.serif.com/index.php?/topic/36672-photo-does-not-open-tif-files-saved-from-fits-files-correctly/?hl=%2Bfits+%2Bliberator I have this same problem. The problem does not occur when I try to open the files in applications like Pixelmator. In the thread there was an indication that the development team would look into this issue. Are there any developments on this? I bought an Affinity Photo license in December to use it for astrophotography but am stuck with this problem ever since... Thank you for your time, Luis Lopes
  24. Hey again, it's been ages since I actually shared some of my work in this forum. Over the course of getting imagery for the tutorials, I've also produced some final pieces that I'm happy with. Recently I've been tackling tutorials for astrophotography/star image editing as well as light painting, so there have been a few late nights! My favourite so far is a light painting composite near my home: Rail Tracks by James Ritson, on Flickr Then a light painting of Rufford Abbey (although I think I narrowly avoided a run-in with security): Rufford Abbey by James Ritson, on Flickr Followed by another light painting composite underneath an old railway bridge. This one's a little scrappy and I'm not sure how I feel about it at the moment: Under The Bridge 01 by James Ritson, on Flickr Moving on, a combination of star photography and light painting at Rufford Lake: Rufford Lake 01 by James Ritson, on Flickr And then a shot of the night sky, which was achieved by stacking 50 images (shot at ISO 6400, 1s long each) and pushing the tones quite severely to produce a vibrant result: Still Sky 01 by James Ritson, on Flickr That's about it for now - some of the above imagery is used in the recent tutorials and I plan to hopefully produce some more videos in the future covering these areas of photography. There are a few more images on my 500px and Flickr accounts as well if you're interested! Thanks, James
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