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Found 1,043 results

  1. Please find below the current feature roadmap for Affinity Photo. The list is a selection of features from our own internal roadmap we would like to share with our users. If a feature you would like isn't on the list then feel free to create a new post so everyone can discuss it. We read all the feature suggestions and consider each one very carefully. Photo Editing -Looks persona -Levels improvements -Curve Improvements -Export persona - preview with compression and palette optimisation -Non destructive Develop Layer Usability -Tool Presets -User categories in the media browser for shapes and objects Pro Printing Support for image layer Spot channels Please feel free to ask questions about the features on the list but don't post new feature requests in this thread, just create a new post. (Updated after 1.5)
  2. Hi all, I’m just curious more than anything, ive always had an issue with batch processing. All I use it for is to take my AFPhoto files and batch convert them to JPEGS. I find that no matter the size of the job my iMac crashes. Even if it’s five images my Mac full on freezes and eventually shuts down and restarts. I don’t get a kernel panic in the logs but it’s clearly what’s happening. Does anyone else find this happens or have any other ideas so that I can convert with out having to do them one by one.
  3. Okay, I thought this would be easy to figure out, even without the ability to use the AP Help (which doesn't work), but alas, I can't figure out how to draw a simple, solid, 100% opaque 1-pixel line in Affinity Photo. I tried the Pen tool, but it only allows me to set the width in points, which results in a semi-transparent line with anti-aliased edges. If I set the line to "1 pt" I get a relatively clean, 1-pixel line but it's semi-transparent. Not what I want! Can I set the line tool to pixels instead of points? I tried typing in "1 px" where it says "1 pt" but it just randomly changed it to "0.8 pt" when I hit Enter. Speaking of which, that interface is a bit messy. When I click inside a field there I see double of what was in that field, plus it's really hard to read due to the white text on light gray background. In Photoshop this is very easy, and I can set whether the line is drawn as a vector object, or as pixels, and I can set the line width in pixels or points. Am I not able to do something similar in Affinity Photo? How do I draw a simple, crisp, 100% opaque, 1-pixel straight line in Affinity Photo?
  4. Facebook has introduced an app for dual-camera smart phones that creates a depth map from a pair of images and creates a 'solid' image with parallax; that is, as you tilt your device or move your mouse over the image objects move slightly to give an illusion of depth. I've been making 'static' stereo pairs for years, and I've made one or two so-called 2.5D videos, but I've been wondering if there's a fairly straightforward way to do something like the app does -- and without writing reams of code! I'm still putting my mind to the problem, but can anyone point me in the right direction and lighten the load? Here's an article that explains the techie stuff about the app: https://techcrunch.com/2018/06/07/how-facebooks-new-3d-photos-work/?guccounter=1 (This may be the wrong place for me to ask, so admin might want to move it to somewhere more appropriate.)
  5. Hi, I used the crop tool to crop the canvas size, and when I did the guides I used to snap the crop tool to the right size shifted to the upper left. Why? Here's a screen cap video of what happened. Screen Recording 2018-10-11 at 2.42.28 PM.mov Notice how the guides, which were along the bottom and right edges of the star shape, have moved after the crop. I presume this is a bug? They shouldn't move.
  6. Hello, I have a question concerning the raw mode in photo. When I used it for the first time, the image shown was not splitted, now I wanted to use the raw mode for the second time the program gives me just that splitted image although "none" is chosen. In the normal mode (jpeg) all is working well. Thank you in advance for your help. Greetings from Cologne :-)
  7. Jangbu

    Migration

    Composite of 2 photos taken many months apart.
  8. Hi, For starters, i apologies for my bad english writing, it's not my native language. As a new user of Affinity Photo i would like some help with the following problem. I already managed to edit some pictures, saved them as a Affinity file and exported them as Jpeg by the export function. Everything went smooth until i tried to export the document as can be seen in the added screen shot. In the export dialog you can see that the estimated file size is "calculating...", this doesn't change. I've let it calculate for 10 to 15 minutes. Usually its calculated far within a minute. So I thought nevermind the calculating and just press export. When i do, nothing happens. The dialog closes but the popup for filename and directory to export to doesn't appear. I already tried other export formats, restarted the program, rebooted the computer and renamed the "save" file. Btw, i now see that this problems is also with other files/documents.. Hope someone knows a solution. Jeroen
  9. Hey guys......so I was working on my new course...and got the the lesson on making brushes.....sooooo I had to amek some brushes. I made a set of fog/ smoke brushes in raster and a set of silky smooth stroke brushes for your vector applications. I have learned so much from the people on the site....I wanted to give back, so here ya go . I am working on new blog post and some new art using them....so I will keep you in the loop Feedback on them is always appreciated, I love making these sorts of tools Jeremy , www.7thseasonstudios.com Stroke brushes -7th season studios .afbrushes Smoke and fog brushes -7th season studios.afbrushes
  10. EZeemering

    [AP] Colorization

    Hi. Looong time Photoshop user here, my first PS came on floppy's. I still use Adobe professionally at work but I wanted a cheaper photo editor at home. An alternative who isn't bogged down with options I never use / touch. So Affinity it was! Black and white colorization was on my bucket list for a long time. So I used it to learn Affinity Photo. Learning new techniques along with new software is generally not a good idea. But AP passed on all fronts. I like it so much I even use it as my personal photo editor. I'll update this thread from time to time if it's appreciated.
  11. Ipad pro - ios 12 AfPhoto 1.6.9.81 This is something pretty old and annoying: you know, sometimes the software leave a huge mark (instead of the brushtroke expected) with the shape and the size of the brush tip. I’ve noticed something weird about that bug that maybe can help the devs. Performing the undo after the bug i’ve noticed that I must repeat three or four times the action to completely restore the normal situation so I checked the history panel and this is what i found. Everytime the bug appears there are three, four or five actions regsitered in the same second (it depends on the lenght of the brushstroke, more long, more actions). Then the history register the actions on the full canvas and not only on the portion of the screen involved. [update] It’s definitely happens using the color picker in the dock. You are still my favourite dev team . Stay strong.
  12. I've been scanning my old 35mm negatives with a Minolta Minolta Dimage Scan Dual IV so that I can put them up on my website. The negatives and all black and white and in need of a bit of attention, so my plan was to run them all through Affinity Photo to remove any dust and scratches and tweak the levels. I did this a few years ago with an old copy of Photoshop CS2 with no issues, so assumed the latest version of Affinity Photo should have no trouble. As I did the last time I scanned a batch of negatives, I have been scanning them with Vuescan as 16bit greyscale TIFF files. When I open the resulting TIFFs in Affinity Photo however, they are opened in the Develop persona with the picture completely blown out. On some occasions they fail to open at all and leave either a blank window reading 0x0 pixels, or crash the app completely. I'm happy to provide a copy of the error log if you think that would be helpful. I can kind of fix the blown out image (for the ones that do actually open) but it really shouldn't be necessary. The files which fail to open at all open fine in Preview, Photoshop CS2 and pretty much anything else I try to open them in. As it is, I am getting better results out of the almost 15 year old Photoshop CS2 than I am out of Affinity Photo. I know I could just use Photoshop, but my copy won't run on my current Mac so I have to open my TIFF files on an old Windows 7 machine. I would much rather however use Affinity Photo as I otherwise find it works very well for my needs. Is there any way in which I can open these TIFF files normally in the photo persona? Is this a bug or the intended behaviour for 16 bit TIFF files? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
  13. Why can I not paint in Affinity Photo? It is as if the program does not register that I am putting a black paint stroke on a layer...or any other color stroke for that matter.
  14. Hi, when I draw an object it always has 10% black fill and black stroke as default. Instead of these defaults I would like to have one of these two features: new default -> no fill with 1 pt black stroke, or remember the last settings and use them for the new document.
  15. marcdraco

    Simple stomach illustration

    Certainly not offensive but not to everyone's taste - but we all have one. Note this is done in Photo not Designer which would be the usual tool of choice for this sort of thing. I had to illustrate stomach to show the oesophagus, lower oesophageal sphincter and "angle of His" to go with a piece about GERD in infants and how some young/new mothers were being shamed into buying fresh produce when there are perfectly good (and sometimes superior!) products available from the major manufactures. The public domain images all have a lot more detail than I needed so I opted for this adapted trace (it's a little rough as I'm no expert with the pen tool). What makes this special is the wonderful way that Photo does graduated fills so there's a almost a 3d effect going on. The highlights are just short, stroked curves using a variable pen pressure (another feature I just adore) and then rasterised and blurred using Gaussian blur until the desired effect is achieved. It's not going to win me any prizes but it shows just how versatile Photo is.
  16. Greetings, I am researching my software choices. Experiences are with Photoshop CS3. I have tried the Lightroom/PS 7 day trial. Someone from another forum recommended Affinity Photo. I am the try before you buy kind of person so a Windows Demo would be nice. But I realized it is not available. I have watched some Affinity Tutorial Video's on Youtube and so far it looks pretty straight forward to learn. I like the Idea of purchasing. I am not keen on giving Adobe a monthly fee to rent their software. Plus after using Lightroom to work with some of my photographs I realized that if in the future I decided that I did not want to use Lightroom that most of my changes might be stuck in there and not able to export the edited images. So I am looking in another direction. I was wondering if any of you all had experience with Photoshop and now are using Affinity Photo and what insights can you offer. One of the things I have noticed is that there seems to be a problem with Affinity Photo and Google Nik Collection. Is this true? Thanks and I will be around. Ron
  17. Hi all, take a look at the attached. I have created that text and masked it to Ales's head. Now I would like to move the text a bit without changing the mask so that it still deletes the area behind his head. In PS I would just select the text and move it but I can't seem to make that happen in Photo (see second screenshot). Can someone help? This ought to be traightforward, surely? Thanks. Phil
  18. DC50

    Landscape

    Temple_Of_The_Four_Winds.pdf
  19. So I took a bunch of bracketed shots (five photo sets) and was converting them to HDR using Photo on my Mac on site (so people could see kinda what they looked like), its a, I think, early 2012 model, it WAS the top spec rMBP when they first came out so its not as much of a donkey as it might sound, but it was churning through the HDR merge and tone map fine, but to do my main editing I have a PC at home which is a 1700X Ryzen with 32gb DDR 4 and an NVMe SSD, not earth shattering, but decent. When I do the same exact HDR merge process on photo on my PC, its slower, like, noticeably slower, now I am assuming there is something wrong, like a setting or something somewhere that I have set wrong (I generally don't mess with settings though so pretty sure everything is default), surely there is no comparison in power between the two machines, but yet it takes longer on the more powerful one? Am I the only one who a) bothered to get affinity on both pc and mac and b) noticed this? Any tips? Cheers Charles
  20. Dear developers, I found a bug in PDF editing with linear gradient. Please check these steps: Create a (CMYK) project in Affinity Photo Place a photo to background Place a Rectangle to your project Fill Rectangle with linear gradient with breakpoint, and will two gradients (see attachment) save and export to PDF open PDF and see gradient bug: put a mask what incorrect, not same as in project under any PDF version. Please fix this if possible, because if I have PDF only, no project, then need create again this gradient. Same results under Photo and Designer too. Project version: PDF edit version: My settings for gradient:
  21. Hi there I am using a Intuos M Pro (Model: PTH-651). I only have one problem while using the wacom. Whenever i am using the brush tool (non-vector) if the tip of my wacom grazes the surface it leaves giant dots. But if i actually press for a dot it is much much smaller. I'm not sure if it is actually a bug or not but it drives me absolutely bonkers, especially when digitally painting. As you can see in the second picture the large dots are with the absolute most minute amount of contact between the tip and the surface and the small dots are with the tip just starting to be pressed with actual pressure to the surface. It makes it extremely annoying when pantomiming shapes above the surface and end up with a bunch of massive dots. Thanks for any response. Also my tablet, AD, and AP are all up to date.
  22. Hi. Not sure if it's just me. Since I updated Affinity Photo to 1.6.5.123 I've experienced frequent Photo application crashes. My machine is an up to date Win 10 64 bit build with 16GB RAM. Typically Photo crashes within about five minutes and sometimes it's autosaved my work. Is this just me :) Cheers Andy
  23. Aff. Photo v1.6.7 apparently allows to open .HEIC files. Strangely enough some can be opened and others not. I cannot see why anything in these files would be different. This makes me wonder: - is Aff. Photo for Mac v1.6.7 supporting HEIC for 100%? - what could be the reason some of these HEIC are not recognized and the following message is shown: "Failed to open file. This file type is not supported." Thanks for your help! file_recognized.HEIC file_not_recognized.HEIC
  24. Hello Dear Dev, i have one question that can also be taken as a suggestion for the entire Affinity product line (Designer, Photo and Publisher), have you ever though about implementing a scratch/swap/cache disk/technology ? i mean, evolved softwares uses that functionality to help their product not kill the weakest port of the system which is the RAM. Well affinity products runs well but ... by making it possible for us to setup a scratch or swap space that is directly on our Hard Drives will help us doing better and working with less stress. To give an exemple just check how linux works with swap space. There are lots of people who uses Affinity line because they can't afford the rock start products which requires to upgrade the hardware again and again. Making it possible for users to setup that space directly on their physical drives will change lives as one will personally estimate how big the scratch/swap/cache space will be and work no stress (for those who may go up to 30 or 40GB swap/scratch space. That space must be cleanable in many ways: 1- From the software itself (in its launched state) a line in the File menu saying : Clear scratch/swap/cache content. 2- From the Preference center just add it to Miscellaneous section : reset or clear cache/scratch/swap content. 3- Must be clearable when doing the full software reset combo. 4- Must be cleanable with usual cleaning tools. Trust me guys, implementing this will make things even better and i believe there are geeks here who can help making this even clear for us. Blessings !
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