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  1. Well, it's been a funny year for us in the Kasper household: we've left the Isle of Wight and moved back to the North Island (or England, as the natives call it). We're still getting ourselves sorted out, and it hasn't left me much spare time for creating the usual Christmas video. Instead, I've made a Christmas card, with the most authentic portraits of us and a couple of the neighbours. (Yes, they live just across the back fence.) As you'll no doubt see, I couldn't be bothe didn't have time to draw in the calves' legs -- but it was rather misty at the time anyway! Merry Christmas!
  2. I noticed a brush issue in 1.10 and 1.10.1 where despite the settings, the basic round brush itself is not 100% opaque at the center and there is a hard opaque ring around the edge at every hardness setting. All brush dynamics are zeroed out. No textures or sub-brushes used. Same results using Mouse or Tablet. Wet edges are zeroed out. It's negatively affecting photo retouching and drawing. (MacOS 11.5.1 M1 iMac)
  3. Hello, my goal is to make a youtube thumbnail where my object (video console) has an outline. I removed the background from the picture, smoothed the edge and then I added a red outline at the effect panel. The outline is not smooth. Instead it looks distorted - it has many pumps / waves to the edge. There is no option to smooth the outline. How can I achieve a clean outline in Designer or Photo?
  4. I don't have time to search entire forums or the interwebs to see if someone else has ever suggested this feedback before. So I offer my apologies if my suggestions have already been covered. 1) Please can you provide a feedback function WITHIN the application it self. It's incredibly frustrating to have to use out dated methods of signing up to god-awful web-forums which just leads to nonconstructive replies of un-thought out opinions and arguments. It also allows you to correctly link feedback (and abuse) to the software license of the user and even categorise the feedback so you can easily see which areas are causing most concern to the user base. 2) Please can you fix the mouse icon when painting in masks in the develop mode. The standard OS mouse icon does not feel accurate to paint with. Also a nice to improve if possible: Painting often feels sluggish to see the red tint forming. If there is a way to make this feel more responsive without upgrading an existing 32GB RAM I7 processor machine, that would be lovely please. 3) Cropping in Develop mode is missing an "ok" or "finished" button. It's frustrating to be sitting back with my tablet, controlling everything then having reach over to the keyboard which I moved to one side, just to hit <enter>. I don't want to map the enter key to my tablet device as it's never used for anything else! if you simply put a button in the UI it will mean I can just move the mouse there and click! perhaps I've missed a trick that does what I want, but then that would mean it's not obvious and intuitive to the user. 4) Please update the flash function for uploading files on this forum. Who runs flash in 2017? Browsers auto block flash from running by default because it's nasty. 5) More of a question then a suggestion, but is there a way to rename the overlays in the Overlays tab in Develop mode? I have 3 gradient overlays, all with the same name! that's very confusing to simple minds like myself. 6) Although I generally hope you spend more time fine tuning what you have already developed, instead of just rushing out new features, it would be nice if there was an in-application function for browsing image files, with a nice big preview of the image and EXIF data, which you can then double click to open it in the develop mode. I don't think anyone wants all this "importing" and cataloguing rubbish which is very slow. But browsing files within Affinity with a UI that suits photographers that windows/macOS don't offer, would be a great win. Thanks for your time.
  5. Newest Afinity Photo (1.10.4) Download won't extract to a msi but publisher and designer do. i have tried downloading from the site and on multiple machines any one else know how to get around this error.
  6. Hej! I ordered to print a photobook a few weeks ago. I'm not professional designer, but I don't like options for print available, so I've decided to make this photobook with Publisher. When the photobook was printed it turned out that it was too dark. I can't say that the PDF that I've made was the same dark as printed, but still I've decided to make V2 of the photobook. I've never edited any pictures using Publisher, so according to youtube videos there's Photo persona for that. And tried to use auto-correction: So strange. Okay, Command+Z and let's try to use auto-color Well, it looks something is going wrong. My question is more about is in Publisher the way to edit photos slightly (brightness/contrast/colorbalance) before sending to print?
  7. Here are some general christmas theme silhouettes as vector assets for reusage in Affinity Photo & Designer & Publisher. The associated assets file: xmas_silhouettes.afassets Have a nice time!
  8. First of all I want to say hi and thanks to each one of you who decided to waste 2 minutes of their time to read my thread and possible helping me out. As the title states the issue I have a problem in Affinity Photo with the brushes. I'll provide a couple screenshots below, so you can get the idea of what I'm talking about. Pretty sure this isn't as rera as I think it is but I literally did not find any information that could help me out on google, here on the forum, reddit and different sites including youtube videos. I bought the program around 2 days ago since I bought a drawing tablet mainly because I decided to try out with the digital art. Anyway... I'm trying to make some twitch icons, sub badges, logos etc. or even discord emojis but the low resolution of the brushes is killing me. Things I already tried: 1. I've contacted the support and still waiting for an answer. 2. I've tried different brushes ( big - small - meduim ) size and they're all the same. 3. Tried to play with the brush settings and that didn't help either. 4. Tried to play with the flow and hardness of the brush and nothing.... 5. A milion times I made sure that I'm using the "Paint Brush Tool" and not something else. 6. Tried to use different style of brushes etc. and didn't solve anything. 7. Uninstalled the app then installing it again didn't help. 8. Tried different settings when creating a new canvas ( including size ). ( The main settings that I'm normally trying to use are: DPI: 300-400 / Page Width: 500 / Page Height: 400 / Pixels / RGB/8 / sRGB IEC61966-2.1 ). The only way to get a nice looking brush is to make the canvas 5000x5000px but then when I save the image it's too big to be uploaded on discord or twitch. PC Specs: Intel-Core i7-9700 nVidia RTX 2070 (8GB) RAM 16GB DDR4 I'm 100% sure it's not from the tablet, since it's the same when I use the mouse but the tablet is GAOMON M106K PRO. Also the brushes I'm using are the "default basic" ones. P.S: Check if there's a red text on the screenshots, if there is a red text it means that the screenshots is an example taken from a youtube video.
  9. I'm not sure if this issue has been previously addressed, but I am using the trial version of Affinity Photo to see if I should purchase it during y'all's Black Friday Sale. None of the other personas in Affinity Photo seem to be working. I see no visual changes to my image when entering the Liquify, Develop, or Tone Mapping Personas. Not really sure how this could be the case, but I'm not willing to buy the product during y'all's discounted sale if entire sections of the software are not working properly for me to test them. Also, if I purchase just Affinity Designer and Affinity Publisher, will the Studio Link feature still work between those respective applications, or do I have to own all three in order for Studio Link to work? Thank you in advance for any clarity you can bring to the situation. All the best!
  10. When sampling a color with the paint brush tool by pressing the ALT key, always the global color as it can be seen on the screen is sampled. If there are brightening or darkening layers above the current layer, the sampled color is brightened or darkened once more, which ends up in a completely wrong color. The actual color picker tool has a source setting "Current layer" which samples the correct color. So either the paint brush tool should consider the color picker tool's source setting when sampling a color or it needs an own setting for sampling colors.  There is a dark blue circle on the middle layer used as sampling source. The top layer has a brightening effect. The color for the lower dot on the right was sampled with the actual color picker tool with source set to "Current layer", the color is correct. The color for the upper dot was sampled with the paint brush tool's inbuilt color picker by pressing ALT: the color chosen is already brighter than it actually is and is then brightened once more. 
  11. Hi Serif, it looks like the issue I reported back in March was fixed just partially. The same issue occurs when trying to zoom when using the Mesh Warp Tool - see the screencast below. Thanks for a fix in advance.
  12. Not sure if it has anything to do with the recent update but Affinity has been crashing/freezing very frequently for me. I get the pinwheel of death, and then just give up on waiting for it to resolve and have to ctrl+alt+del my way out.
  13. I don't know if this is expected behavior or not. I have a Publisher document and have placed a Photo document in it. When I put a text wrap on the Photo, even without specifying the size of the wrap, the text jumps about an inch from the Photo. Dragging the photo to the left (second picture below) the next moves with it, but with the same inch space. It's only be cropping the photo (with the rectangle/crop tool) and setting the text wrap on that that the desired layout is achieved. Is this normal?
  14. I have many photos in RGB and when I go to print them, with a pro printer, they come out with the wrong color, usually darker as their equipment is cmyk. . I cannot find a way to convert them to cmyk in Photo. I must be missing something. In Designer, you can go to Shift-control-p and get to a cmyk setting change and the change of color is obvious. Is there something similar in photo.? One needs to see the difference as one works on the photo. I found the preferences. I know you can set it to print ready in NEW, but when I bring in the RGB photo, it still says RGB on the upper ribbon (dashboard).
  15. There have been several reports of problems with Topaz DeNoise AI recently, including from myself. I have been using DeNoise recently with the latest version of Photo and can report no problems. I started with a scanned slide of the Sea Anemone Sagartiogeton undatus. The original had a fair amount of noise from the emulsion in the original slide. This shows the original at 100% showing this noise. I used Toapz Denoise AI, initially with just 100% Denoise, but it still looked fairly soft, so I added the 100% Enhance Sharpness. The result was: Much cleaner. I would strongly recommend Topaz DeNoise AI for cleaning up scanned slides. John
  16. Although I find the Smart Selection brush quite useful, it doesn’t always get the job done, so here’s an alternative method for separating elements with fine detail in a photo. 1). Don’t forget to rasterise the imported image. 2). Duplicate it. One version will be be converted to a high contrast black & white image, while the other remains the same. 3). Take one of the copies, and in Adjustments Studio in the sidebar, scroll down to Vibrance in order to dial down the Saturation, creating a ‘greyscale’ image. 4). While still in Adjustments Studio, scroll up to Levels, increase the % of Black and decrease the % of White, in order to create a high contrast image. 5). Use a Black brush to fill in any White areas you DON’T want to become part of the selection. 6). Next, access the Channels Studio in the sidebar, click on the three dots next to composite Blue (or either of the other colours), and choose the option: Load to Pixel Selection. This will select all the white parts of the image. 7). Switch to Selections Persona, and with the Move Tool, click & hold on the Canvas to call up a dialogue box, and finally choose Invert Selection. 8). Switch back to Photo Persona, and with the Move Tool selected copy & paste from the original colour image to a new layer. You’ll be left with the desired portion of the photo. Notes: I’ll sometimes duplicate this new isolated image, in order to add a Multiply effect under Layer Options. This can help the image to blend better with the background if placed beneath the unadjusted layer. Also, when using Channels Studio to make a selection, you can save a copy of it by clicking on the three dots next to one of the colour composites and choosing Create Spare Channel. You will then be able to return to the Spare in order to make another selection. I hope this is helpful, let me know if there are any questions. FullSizeRender.mov
  17. Please, can you add Mesh Wrap to Live filters? I need it as a live filter for Embedded documents sources manipulation. This way it will be easy to replace the image (in the Embedded document) and keep the deformed mesh intact.
  18. Hello, I'm watching a lot of tutorials on cropping right now. Especially hair. Unfortunately, none of them work for me. Are there any presets that need to be fixed beforehand in the preferences? So, selecting a person with brush (W) goes. Then refine the hair area and select further doesn't work, because all areas that were already selected before are partially undone. So if you click on apply, you have a smear at the "edge" ziwchen hair and background. Thanks
  19. Sharpening by Blurring This procedure originated from Dan Margulis and I found it described in The Creative Digital Darkroom by Katrin Eismann and Sean Duggan (Page 387). It utilizes two copies of the original file which are transformed, one into a Light Edges and the other into a Dark Edges image. These are then stacked onto the original with appropriate blending modes to create a final sharpened image. The original used Photoshop. I have translated it as far as I can into Affinity Photo procedures. 1. First, create two new tabbed-copies of the background image. Photoshop allows you to to do this as a recordable command. In Photo I used the following: Edit > Copy (Control-A, Control-V) (or Command-A, Command-V) Edit> New from Clipboard. Edit> New from Clipboard. This creates two new tabs, each with a copy of the original image. 2. Create the Light Edges On the first extra image, duplicate (Ctrl/Cmd -J) the Background Layer twice Select the Middle Layer Apply a Gaussian Blur Filter (Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur) with radius 1.5. Change the Blend Mode to Darken. Select the Topmost Layer and set the Blend Mode to Difference. Flatten the Image (Document > Flatten). Duplicate the single layer and set the Blend Mode to Screen. Duplicate this top layer again. Flatten the Image. Rename this layer to Light Edges. The result will be a very dark image with fine light lines corresponding to the edges. 3. Create the Dark Edges On the other extra image, duplicate the background layer twice. Select the Middle Layer. Apply a Gaussian Blur Filter (Filter > Blur > Gaussian Blur) with radius 2. Change the Blend Mode to Lighten. Select the Topmost Layer and change the Blend Mode to Difference. Flatten the image. Invert the image (Ctrl/Cmnd-I). Duplicate this background layer. Change the Blend Mode to Multiply. Duplicate this layer again. Flatten the image. Change the Layer Name to Dark Edges The result will be a very light image with fine dark lines corresponding to the edges. 4. Bring it all together Select the Dark Edges image and Copy (Ctrl/Cmd-C). Select the original image and Paste (Ctrl/Cmd-V). Set the Blend Mode to Multiply. Select the Light Edges image and Copy (Ctrl/Cmd-C). Select the original image and Paste (Ctrl/Cmd-V). Set the Blend Mode to Screen. I have created two macros to perform the Light Edge and Dark edge manipulations of stages two and three. Although Photo will quite happily create a macro that copies and pastes layers between documents, it records the actual layers present at the time of the recording, not the command to perform the copy. To apply these to a document, you need to manually go through the steps in stage one to create the two copies. Then Apply the Light Edges macro to one of these tabs and the Dark Edges macro to the other tab. Finally manually go through the steps in stage four. Dark Edges.afmacro Light Edges.afmacro John
  20. At the moment I tinking to go back to PS, because I cant use any tool in AP to work, or AP frezz 100%, ony to kill with Taskmanager. No crash reports found. Not very happy with this. Its the Nviea driver or Win11 or what it is I don; t know. Other programms are working without any problems.
  21. Hi, Since a few weeks my program frees when i want to work in it. At the beginning it was after a few houres, now its with the first thing that i do. When i installed it it was working very fine, now its a dissaster. Any one an idea how to solve this. I already did an uninstall and a reinstall, same outcome.
  22. Hello, is there any shortcut to use will have a selection tool to change between add and subtract instantly? Like in PS? This will make my life waaaay easier. thank you!
  23. I'am working under win 11 beta with Photo. I uses all asets to compose something. But at sometime the whole programm freeze up. There was the crashhandler into taksmanager, so I could save a dumpfile. I had to close Photo from taskmanager. crashpad_handler (3).DMP
  24. When you make adjustments in the blend options of a layer it is sometimes difficult to assess the resulting effect. So it would really come in handy to have a possibility to switch blend options on and off in order to see the before and after. Besides this every layer with adjusted blend options should have a cog icon showing next to the layer name. For layer effects it is already there.
  25. So I recently purchased Photo. I've noticed that when I use the hot keys on my drawing tablet (Huion Kamvas 13), I begin getting white lines around my brush strokes and around previous strokes (there was a post about this issue about a year ago with the same issue, but that's the only one I found). You can see what I'm talking about in the attached image. As best I can tell, this issue only triggers when hitting the hit key for "Brush" on the tablet. If I press "B" on a keyboard, the issue doesn't replicate. Yes, I can use a keyboard, but I'm not sure if this can be "fixed" or if an update can handle this glitch. I'm also interested in if there is another work around aside from using a keyboard that anyone has found.
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