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Showing results for tags 'photo'.
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Good morning! I have been an avid user of Affinity's Photo and hardly ever had to ask for help (I thought never but I found a question from 2015). A client asked me to take pictures before a greenscreen while I was on assignment. They had a very small green cloth and there was a mixture of sun and tungsten light. I did the best I could... Having no studio lighting I expected some color cast but it is far worse, probably because of the small screen/cloth so the group had to stand close to it Can anyone help me in regards to how to remove the green color cast from the models? Below I attached a screenshot of what it looks like. If you need more info etc, let me know. Thank you in advance! Dennis
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Hello everyone, I've been using AP for a month now some of the photos that I completed are taking to much room and would like to move them to cloud/offline storage. My question is can I export a complete folder or do I have to move 1 image at a time? Please let me know if you can help my out Thank you
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Hey folks, My school bought several licenses of Affinity Photo, but we were given 90 day trials to give everyone time to figure out the licensing. I already had an expired trial on my teacher laptop, and even though I uninstalled it, my new trial is still saying my time is up. Is there any way to uninstall the trial completely? I guess not, or anyone would just keep installing trials. Oh well, if anyone can think of a solution, please let me know, Cheers, Tambasco My System Macbook Air with Yosemite OS -
As much as I like the perlin-noise filter and its settings, the fact that the noise does not tile at 1:1 width and height is a little bit of a downer. I use the noise very often for gaming shaders. As far as I know perlin noise can be made to repeat. I can imagine that I am not the only one who would appreciate this option. Otherwise: great software!
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Hello everyone, I've been using AP for a month now some of the photos that I completed are taking to much room and would like to move them to cloud/offline storage. My question is can I export a complete folder or do I have to move 1 image at a time? Please let me know if you can help my out Thank you
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Hi! I've been trying to follow a few sharpening techniques done by Blake Rudis using Photoshop, thinking it can be mimicked in Affinity Photo and I seem to have hit a road block. One of the techniques is to use a high pass layer with linear light - I can do that in Affinity without any issues but then he adds a curves layer as well and I believe he puts it on top of the high pass layer. If I select the curves layer and either leave it or have it merge down it seems not to affect sharpening but whatever parameter I adjusted; in his example he shows it first on a grey scale of the image then the image itself. He has 6 techniques and it seems that he builds upon the adjustment or filter layers - What am I missing or is Affinity not capable of these actions. I can post the videos here if need be but don't want to violate any rules. Also, I seem to lose the adjustment box in both high pass and curves and can't figure a way to recall them back (separate issue). I would assume this is going to be true for all items in layers Thanks for any info! -
Hello everyone! First of all I would just like to say that AP has officially replaced photoshop as my main editior for all of my RAW editing and designing. There is one thing I am noticing though...and that's when i go to add an Outline (stroke) it looks extremely jagged. This is also translated into the final project when it's exported as well. I guess I may be spoiled from the crisp lines in photoshop, but is there a way to smooth the lines out a bit? thank you! -
I came to decision that I no longer want to use PHOTO app - 1. Degrades my photos when imported 2. Back up features are limited , not easy to go straight to NAS, or local backup device. I often use files too large for clouds So I would love an app or feature that stores and manages photos that are used specifically for this app. Not just for regular photo editing for home use but really large files with lots of details- that I can wirelessly connect to backup device so that it doesnt need to stay on my iPAD. For now, I am storing them in files , imported directly from camera. Via SD, and opening them directly in the application. This way, it seems to keep the file size and details that I need that I took with DSLR - otherwise, why am I bothering? I can just use my camera phone for low quality photos I'm also wondering how many photos I can store and organise right on your app???? Maybe this is the way to organize my files... tho I have no idea how to back that up as well on external harddrive. All these ios issues .... ios11 is no help either.
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Hello, I've been using Affinity Photo for a few months now and love it! but there's one thing that disturbs me everytime I use it : When I add a png icon/logo (like the one in the attachement) and add put it on a picture, it always looks distorted or blurry no matter how high in resolution the png is. I've been wondering if this only is a problem I have, or if I am doing something wrong. Is there a way to fix this issue? Thank you very much for reading Leeyhan
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When the raw output format is set to 32-bit (HDR) format in the Assistant dialog, are there any differences in making image adjustments (exposure, brightness, colors, white balance, shadow, highlight, ... etc ..., except noise reduction) within the Develop Persona compared to Photo Persona? In other words, what are the advantages in adjusting image parameters in Develop Persona? If there is no difference, wouldn't this method be partial workaround to the histogram bug in Develop Persona? -
I've been wanting to do a color double exposure for a while but all of the tutorials are for photoshop and the steps don't translate to Affinity Photo. Can anyone explain this to me? here is one of the videos I've seen. https://photoshoptrainingchannel.com/color-double-exposure/
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Hi, I would like to ask how can I export in Affinity Photo multiple files from one big source image. I.e. I have source file 4000x3000 px and I need png 320x200 px, 640x480 px, 960x600 px. Thanks for help. Greg -
Renaming of exported files during batch processing needed - with possibility to use meta data as name, ie. capture time as part of filename etc. -
Hello, I wiil like an auto recovery of works that have not been saved. I was working on a design and suddenly the software crashed i was hoping to continue from the last cached document please can we have this feature enabled for unsaved projects thanks
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There needs to be a way to export the history of changes into a Macro for use against other pics. It would be a HUGE time-saver to be able to grab the history of all applied edits, save to a Macro, and then re-apply those same "final" changes as a batch job to other pics. Example - I have 20 pics that were all taken at the same time (similar lighting, etc), so they need the same basic treatment at least to begin with. After I'm satisfied with the edits I make to picture #1, I can save, and batch run the other 19. I get that I may be able to do some of this by just running a Macro at the beginning of my editing session, but that's clunky and also through testing doesn't quite allow me to do some things (such as set layer visibility as I work through changes, retain the "before" setting as in an Exposure change, etc).
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In Designer: I have shapes that are perfectly aligned on their edges but they are still showing the background behind especially when turned to raster elements. I have the points snapping to each other and have zoomed in very far to confirm that they are aligned. See attached sample. I know I can put one shape behind the other shape and then overlap them but I need to avoid doing this as I will have hundreds of these shapes and will need to delete different ones and have the space be accurate. I will be bringing the files into Photo and will be rasterizing the project at the end as well. It seems that AD is not seeing the edges as being perfectly next to each other despite the points being aligned. Even if I put a small stroke on the shapes the background is still showing through slightly. I'd rather not have to put on a stroke regardless. Is there any way to prevent this from happening? Cheers! gaps.zip edit: I've even tried overlapping the shapes slightly and the background still shows through. Seems like it might be more of a bug. -
Anyone recommend using the Aurora HDR app on top of the hdr facility in Affinity photo. Thanks -
batch jobs can only save afphoto, jpg, png, tiff, exr normal File>export allows more options though e.g. pdf it just happened that I had to batch convert a bunch of svg which AP opened well but without a batch option it was not practical please make batch jobs more full featured cheers (and enable parallel export)
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Please forgive me for not really knowing how to properly ask about this... I have a photograph that I want to break up into 3 different layers; something like background, near foreground, and deep foreground. I want to separate them so that I can independently adjust effects on the different layers, and so that I can insert additional elements in between the layers. I know that the Selection Brush is great for chunking off the bits that I want in each layer. I started banging away with the Selection Brush and a Mask, but it quickly got unruly trying to tweak the Masks across 3 different layers. I'm fantasizing about some way to do something like having a single mask with multiple colors, where each color is the mask for a different layer... Or something like that. Just some way to manage the boundaries in a single place, rather than across 3 different masks as I was originally starting to do. Is my question making sense? I searched around for "compositing" and "layer separation" and "background removal" and "rotoscoping", but nothing seemed to address the problem I'm having. There's a good chance I'm just not asking the right questions here. Is there a trick to this? My naive approach has me managing 3 different masks, and trying to keep them all in sync when I want to adjust a boundary seems like a daunting task. I feel like there must be a better way. I don't need a step-by-step tutorial, I'm just hoping that someone could get me pointed in the right direction. Thanks for any guidance.
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Hello, is there any good method to remove lower quality JPEG artifacts from whole photo without loosing details and blurring? I've attached simple sample.
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Hello, When I add a live perspective filter to an embedded document in Affinity Photo, I can't select dual plane. Am I doing something wrong or is there a good reason for this? Thanks in advance! Bauke -
I have a number of panoramic images taken by an iPhone, i.e. the iPhone already did the stitching of separate shots. I'm probably missing something obvious, but how do I open these images in AP to use its panoramic tools? If I just open it I simply end up with a rather elongated picture which is not quite what I was after -
Does the .afdesign file have an icon like photoshop has? Or does it just use the programs icon? -
I'm new to using Affinity Photo and am working on an iPad Pro. I'd like to be able to export edited images directly to an external drive or back into Apple's Photos library. Is there a way to add export locations into AP? Haven't been able to find this option anywhere, but it seems too basic to have been left out. Thanks, Dave
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I must have done something wrong when editing a photo because the tools down the right hand side of screen have disappeared.Could someone please help and tell me how to get them back?
