Jump to content

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'photo'.



More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


Forums

  • Affinity Support Forums
    • News and Information
    • Affinity Support & Questions
    • Feature Requests & Feedback
    • Bugs in Affinity Designer & Affinity Photo
  • Learn and Share
    • Tutorials (Serif and Customer Created Tutorials)
    • Share your work
    • Resources
  • Affinity Beta Software Forums
    • Affinity Designer Beta Forums
    • Affinity Photo Beta Forums
    • Affinity Publisher Beta Forums

Find results in...

Find results that contain...


Date Created

  • Start

    End


Last Updated

  • Start

    End


Filter by number of...

Joined

  • Start

    End


Group


AIM


MSN


Website URL


ICQ


Yahoo


Jabber


Skype


Location


Interests

Found 1,195 results

  1. Is there a way to alphebetize (or at least make categories) the list of brushes? (Or maybe I have too many brushes )
  2. I'm perfectly fine sticking with an already well developed animation program. But its always good to have a non subscription program you like as a backup.
  3. I was speculating on how Equations could be used to create a ripple-like effect in a reflection. I used an image of a Mill on the River Avon at Tewkesbury. I flipped the image vertically and then applied Filter > Distort > Equations as follows. The main effect is to vary the position of each pixel on the y-axis in a sinusoidal fashion, so I began with: y=y+100*sin(2*360*y/h) The 100 is just a scaling factor for now. This had the right effect but was the same right across the image, so I added a cosine function which would vary the magnitude across the x-axis: y=y+100*cos(10*x/w)*sin(2*360*y/h) Again the 10 here is a scaling factor. The result was: I should be able to tweak this into a macro where the user could vary the amplitude of the ripple, and the amplitude of the horizontal variation. A further tweak could be to add a perspective effect so that the ripples nearer the observer look larger than those further away. What do possible users think. Would this be a useful macro or are there easier ways to get the same effect? John
  4. I've been scanning my old 35mm negatives with a Minolta Minolta Dimage Scan Dual IV so that I can put them up on my website. The negatives and all black and white and in need of a bit of attention, so my plan was to run them all through Affinity Photo to remove any dust and scratches and tweak the levels. I did this a few years ago with an old copy of Photoshop CS2 with no issues, so assumed the latest version of Affinity Photo should have no trouble. As I did the last time I scanned a batch of negatives, I have been scanning them with Vuescan as 16bit greyscale TIFF files. When I open the resulting TIFFs in Affinity Photo however, they are opened in the Develop persona with the picture completely blown out. On some occasions they fail to open at all and leave either a blank window reading 0x0 pixels, or crash the app completely. I'm happy to provide a copy of the error log if you think that would be helpful. I can kind of fix the blown out image (for the ones that do actually open) but it really shouldn't be necessary. The files which fail to open at all open fine in Preview, Photoshop CS2 and pretty much anything else I try to open them in. As it is, I am getting better results out of the almost 15 year old Photoshop CS2 than I am out of Affinity Photo. I know I could just use Photoshop, but my copy won't run on my current Mac so I have to open my TIFF files on an old Windows 7 machine. I would much rather however use Affinity Photo as I otherwise find it works very well for my needs. Is there any way in which I can open these TIFF files normally in the photo persona? Is this a bug or the intended behaviour for 16 bit TIFF files? Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks
  5. John Rostron

    Making more Ripples

    I have updated my Ripples macro originally posted under Tutorials. I am now posting under Resources, since it is really delivering a sort-of-finished product rather than a 'How to'. The new version has three parameters: a controls vertical spacing of the ripples. Reducing the a parameter increases the ripple frequency (reduces the wavelength). b controls the horizontal variation of ripple amplitude across the width of the image. Small values of b make the ripples change a lot across the image. For large values (~=1) the changes cycle two or three times across the image. c affects ripple complexity. This is very much a suck-it-and-see parameter. A value of one adds no complexity, a vale of 1 does. Here is an original image (Tewkesbury Mill inverted): And with the macro applid with a-1, b=0.5 and c-0.5: I have to admit that the results I have had with this macro are varied. Sometimes it is very impressive, but for other images it is definitely not! Here is the macro as a single file and as a library: Ripples.afmacro Ripples.afmacros I have been looking at the Distortions macro in the Macro Pack with mixed results. I have got it to perform, but not consistently. It appears to have no visible effect on the Tewkesbury Mill image. John
  6. Photo version 1 6 5 135 Designer version 1 6 5 135 Windows 10 working on a Microsoft Surface Book 2 with a Wacom graphics tablet and Surface Pen I've been using both Photo and Designer for about a year with no problems. Yesterday, I tried to use the Selection Brush Tool in Photo and it would not respond at all when using the trackpad on the laptop or the graphics tablet or the Surface pen - instead of a selection being indicated with the white 'marching ants' marking the bounds of the selection, there is nothing - no selection is made at all. This is the same irrespective of the pixel width of the selection brush. The selection brush tool has previously worked fine in both Photo and Designer - no hardware changes have been made since first using the programs. I've tried going back to the Factory Reset default in Edit - Defaults, but that made no difference. I then tried to work on the image using the Selection Brush in the pixel persona of Designer and it didn't work there either. I've tried uninstalling and downloading both programs but the problem is still there. Any ideas on how to resolve the problem would be appreciated.
  7. I assume this is a bug, but perhaps I don’t understand how it’s supposed to work: When using the perspective filter in Affinity Photo, the grid keeps snapping and I need it not to. I assumed that toggling off ‘Autoclip’ would stop this but it doesn’t. Shouldn’t it? I’m on an original iPad Pro 12" running the iOS 12 beta and AP version 1.6.12.86.
  8. What am I doing something wrong --- watched james's fft denoise video but I cannot get a similar window to his. My panel is very big -- just realizing that I do get large similar panels [blend range) most of the time How do I ''zoom in" as James puts it SS of my screen Cheers
  9. Hey folks, back again with a small composite made of three photos from last year's trip to Bali and some burning sky stuff I shot during summer. Result: It could need some more finetuning for sure, but I am pretty happy with how it turned out. What do you think? Sources: Cheers, Marc
  10. Hello Team ! Hello Everyone ! Glad to make this suggestion for the good of Affinity and Designers or just Users who joined the move and those considering to join the move. My point is about not killing things that we already love but making them even better and i hope this won't become a troll. To my sight, the celebrissime Liquify Persona need to be reviewed and improved, boosted or upgraded (take it as you want). Actually, a persona is not just something we click at but it is an identity to a type of Designer/ Creative Person/People and it is time to make it reflect those of us who identify their style through that Persona. ___________________________________________ Having a Persona to only twirl, Freeze, push etc ... some couple of Pixel is good but ... there is more to it. I suggest the Liquify Persona to be upgraded and maybe renamed to fit with the real style it is supposed to reflect: Photo Manipulation or Photo Composition (here too call like you want). I suggest more tools to be put in there that will help make the Photo Composition/Manipulation happen from that precise place with dedicated tools and even it can be the opportunity to develop new tools that fit the Manipulation/Composition Style. i'm not asking for tool to be removed from the Pixel Persona, not at all but asking for the Pixel/Photo Persona to be less loaded from its first approach for sure a user could decide to customize his toolbox like we currently are allowed to do but if that user is a Photo Manipulator/Compositor then he should load everything he want (photos) using the Pixel/Photo Persona then switch to the dedicated Manipulation/Composition Persona and do his work from that place. The workflow could be like this: 1- Load an image (or many images) on the Pixel Persona then select the object we want to work with 2- click the Manipulation/Composition Persona then be presented with necessary tools for that precise job, from Selection brush, Flood Selection, to inPainting not forgetting all liquify tools but all those should now be in more advanced mode giving more flexibility and settings to fine tune the work. 3- Do the job and when done click on Apply to switch back to the Pixel/Photo Persona which is the central place and see the result. Then do the same again and again with all other layers who need to be transformed or manipulated 4- the upgrade should give the user the opportunity through a button (like the After/Before) to view full stack of layer in low opacity mode which can be increased or decreased (but the user should only be allowed to work on one layer at a time. 5- All Color Grading work can happen in the Develop Persona or in the Pixel/Photo Persona (here for those who need to control) 6- The Tone Mapping Persona wold be helpful for fine tuning the thing with rich presets, LUT or Manual stuffs. Well all this must be given the possibility to be non destructive, meaning i must be able to select a layer in my stack anytime, at any level of progress and switch back to the Manipulation Persona and redo this or fine tune more that etc... More focus in the Non Destructive aspect will actually increase the value of the software. I know the move you are taking with making Designer and Photo to be kind of sub or Persona for Publisher but still Photo should be improved on its own because Photo compositor/Manipulators won't buy Publisher just because it is not what they do but a more enriched Photo software ... Well Yes many would go for it no complex to what already exist. This topic is open to more adds that can help Devs to figure this out. Even if they don't implement it with 1.7 Beta cycle, it is something they may take serious and consider to fine tune and implement in coming version and we can help here. I'm only 1 Brain, yours are needed for more power, Step out of the Purist areas and come help build great with you original ideas. Hope i've posted in the right place and wish you all the best with improving Affinity. Blessings.
  11. While you are writing code for new retail versions, please consider: 1. Make the help topic pages sizable to offer screen wide views. (As it stands now, you can resize only vertically; it should resize vertically and horizontally. 2. Make each panel within the topic page sizable relative to the whole page (As it stands now, when you zoom in on a help topic page, the sidebar zooms wider at the expense of the topic text panel; it should at least work the other way around where the text panel zooms at the expense of the sidebar panel. 3. (Each panel within the page should be able to be sized independently of the whole page.) 4. or, Make the entire page zoomable just like the canvas in the drawing persona. I will assume that the development teams for all applications are collaborating to make all Affinity applications behave the same so I will not repost this under the other application forums unless you advise otherwise. Feature request 1.mp4
  12. Lovemonkey

    Posing daughter

    I asked my daughter if she would pose for me while testing out the various settings on my camera. Thanks to affinity photo I went from this To this
  13. Can anyone direct me o a source on how to turn a photo line art in either Photo or Designer with a result similar to Akvis Sketch?
  14. Hello Team Well i have couples of suggestions for what i call "The Persona Improvements". Well it is nothing as serious as the title is but more like me looking into things with different sight. 1- The Tone Mapping persona is lacking of a Global Reset button or function that allows the user to reset anything done there without leaving the Persona, i ask this because the Tone Mapping Persona have default behavior of applying the latest used Preset and apply it to a newly loaded picture, so having a Reset Global button will help us have a picture that is not directly changed and for which we can start at fresh either it be for manual adjustment or preset application. - Please Fix/Implement- 2- The Tone Mapping Persona to me should be far more than what it is actually and it the right place for us to process and handle very helpful and serious stuffs like LUT (and even more) but in a more advanced way than what we can do with the LUT Adjustment layer, there also we should be able to import/export LUT with ease of use. 3- The different categories we see in the persona would be pleasant if you could make it Fold/unFold. actually when i click say Main" or "Exposure" it stays unFolded and the only way to Fold it is to uncheck it thus disabling the related settings, So please make it Foldable/un Foldable but please keep the enable/disable for who may want (it is also necessary) 4- The curve category should offer more settings than the Adjustment of the same name (this should be the case for the develop persona too) i mean you should put everything like the Eye dropper for Highlight-Mid Tone and Shadow allowing us to do more and very accurate color grading and color balance. 5- I suggest changes and works done in the Tone Mapping Persona to reflect on the pixel persona as Adjustment Layers for he who may want that config but also it will make the thing more "Non Destructive style of work" also we should be able after applying our selection using the Tone Map Persona to return there and work from where we left things and not start at fresh again superposing this and that thus making our design or work "too much" ! 6- Possible to speed up the load of One Map persona ? i think if you disable the Auto apply selected tone it will be much faster and leaving us full control of whatwe want to do in there. That was my 6 points for a Better Affinity! Blessings.
  15. When I open a photograph of a closeup of someone, the flesh/skin colors are distorted. It looks like the software is vectorizing the colors of the photograph as the colors don't blend together but are separated by rigid lines and Affinity Photo is also applying a lot of contrast which I also cannot remove. I have applied several color profiles to Affinity Photo but nothing seems to change. See the attached photos; the photo on the right is the original; the photo on the left is what Affinity Photo does to it and it can't be undone unless you close the file without saving changes. Help!
  16. I am having a problem with selecting an area using the pen tool on my Macbook pro running OSX 10.11.6. with a Wacom Intuos pro model PTH 651 running the latest version of its software, downloaded today. My Affinity Photo is version 1.6.7. When I try drawing around and area by creating a series of node points it stutters and then creates a new curve layer. Even if I go round to the start point to join it up there is no completion of the circle. If I use a mouse to select an area that works O.K. but when I press select I get dancing lines on the two vertical sides of the picture, not around my selection. If at that point I click 'invert selection' the whole picture goes transparent. I'm sure that the first part of this problem is a bug and the second part I was following a video (not one of yours as I couldn't find one that showed using the pen tool to select an area.) and his worked and mine didn't. The latter could be something that I am doing but I have gone over it about 5 times and used different photos.
  17. Dear Affinity-Team! I'm very impressed by the iPad version of your apps. Sadly I do "only" own a Microsoft Surface (Tablet). You can run Affinity Photo and Designer on it but sometimes it is a big pain in the ass to be not able to take full advantage of the power your programs offer. Especially without a cover and a mouse only equipped with the Surface Pen, it is difficult to get buttons right. For that reason, it would be just awesome to have a surface version with all those fantastic features and as intuitive as the iPad version. I hope to hear positive news soon. All the best from Germany. Stefan
  18. The Ability to add(Insert) a photo(s) to our posts and easily resize the image. When Making Posters this is crucial, if this is already something available... Please show how to go about it or provide somewhere to learn
  19. Kasper-V

    A tiger

    I'm working through the AD Workbook, and the first example seemed a little too easy for an old hand (or do I mean know-all?) like me, so I decided to try something a little more ambitious. So I did a tiger. It wasn't bad, but I thought I could do better ... so I did another one. Here it is ... This is reduced to about 70% of the original size. In the book, Ben The Illustrator says he often works from videos rather than still photos, so I looked out one or two videos on the internet. This image is made from two stills, as the real thing didn't look exciting enough! I made vector shapes on separate layers of: the body and nearer legs; the tail; the head; the further legs; and the stripes -- the stripes I clipped to their layers so i didn't have to fiddle about with the edges. I saved that as an AD file, then as an AP file, which I then edited with some motion and radial blur to give a sense of movement. As I went along, I duplicated some of the layers and rasterised them, so I could add some shading and clip them. Finally, I made up a background from a couple of texture images, and added a shadow underneath the animal.
  20. Hi, I'm new to use Affinity Photo and Affinity Design. Till now I used Photoshop. I'm missing some function in Affinity. Can someone tell me how to rotate the canvas in Affinity Photo and how to change the Brush size with the mouse like Photoshop.
  21. Greetings fellow Affini-types I'd like to ask a question about the functionality of both Designer and Photo .. I frequently use both of these programs to create frames that I later make into animations. As such, creating each file in the scene, I name them sequentially like "Filename 1", "Filename 2" and so on. When revisiting the files to edit later, I like to grab a bunch of the files and double click them all to open them as a set. The current, and rather odd functionality that I'd like to avoid is this: If I open up 6 files, named "xx 7.png", "xx 8.png", "xx 9.png", "xx 10.png", "xx 11.png", "xx 12.png", the order that the tabs open up is a complete jumble, for example just now I opened the same list of files, and the order Designer opened them was: "10, 8, 12, 11, 9, 7". With only 6 files, this is not a huge task to correct, but when opening 25 or 30 files at a time, and also doing this several times per hour, it's really cumbersome to have to go and reshuffle the tabs around so I can step through them easily in a sequential fashion. I would like to ask if this is possible in the current release of Designer and Photo, and if so, how? If this isn't currently possible, I'd like to request that this is added as a new improvement, as it would make my particular work flows much more efficient. I use multiple tabs within Safari windows in a similar fashion, and would suggest that Affinity could possibly twin Safari's Tab behaviour to make it easier to navigate between the currently open tabs. Safari's key-command "Command+Shift+(RightArrow)" and "Command+Shift+(LeftArrow)" makes a nice addition as a method to skip right or left across the tabs as well. These sequences fall easily at hand with a laptop keyboard and is familiar to Safari users. I think the above would make a dandy addition to these two truly world-class pieces of software. Please let me know if anyone can help.
  22. MarcBr

    Pagoda in Vietnam

    Hey folks, finished another edit of a photo from my trip through Vietnam. Still not sure what to think about the "water" and its shore... What's your opinion about it - does it look too unnatural? I was trying keep no straight shore line... Original Edited in Affinity Photo Cheers, Marc
  23. John Rostron

    Stained Glass Windows

    Whenever I visit an old church, I try to take some photographs of the stained glass windows. The challenges they present vary. Most will need some distortion correction. Many will have variable lighting across their face. I usually try to take a bracketed series so that I can include some of the surrounding stonework.Usually I take the photographs with my old Sony A55 DSLR, but sometimes I use my Canon Powershot. This photograph of the Great West Window of Chester Cathedral was taken at my daughters degree ceremony, when she received her PhD. I took it with the PowerShot from near the centre of the cathedral as we were all filing out. I did not have time for any bracketing, but I did take two photographs, one of the lower half and one of the upper half. Later I merged the two in Affinity Photo Merge to Panorama. I often use AP's Perspective control, but I do find that DxO ViewPoint much easier to get the desired result, and used that here. The only other post-processing was some sharpening and curves adjustment. Chester Cathedral Great West Window Comments are welcome. I would also be pleased to see other's photographs of stained glass windows, with any commentary on the post-processing involved. John
  24. UPDATE: SOLVED! I looked over the log files myself (I was only dimly aware of them as a useful thing before yesterday evening). I found an error message within. "...OpenWithProgids Verify that you have sufficient access to that key" It turned out I didn't, so I fixed that, and have successfully installed both Designer and Photo. Not only can I now work with the lovely Affinity toys, I can troubleshoot, too. Cheers! Hi, I've been trying off and on to install Designer (and Photo) to my Windows 10 computer, with no luck. I've read the forums and applied these successful-for-others fixes so far: Clean boot Create admin account to try install. Nope. Runtime Update (did that) Making sure I'm running 64 bit Windows: Yes, I am. Make sure of .NET version. Yes. Ran troubleshooter, checked compatibility settings, tried running in various compatibility modes, all failed. The troubleshooter said that Affinity Designer 1.6.5.135 is incompatible. I have DirectX 12, and Windows 10 Pro, 16GB RAM, Intel CORE i7, 160 GB free of disk space on a Cintiq Companion 2. Help! I LOVE Designer on the ipad Pro, I want to use it and Photo on my PC!
×