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The current behavior is that it does not change from whatever tool's cursor you have chosen. It should really change the cursor to a pointer or something else appropriate for scrollbars. This is most obvious with a large brush (expand using right square bracket key `]`) because it is hard to see the center of the brush and when you're hovering over a scrollbar you'd like to know whether you really are over the scrollbar or not. I often find that I guess wrong and then the brush draws on the image instead of performing the scroll operation that I intended.

Originally requested on Reddit, the OP asked if the woman in the back could be removed, I decided to remove everyone. Original: My two edits: Any feedback, advice, tips and whatnot welcome!

Original Photo > https://www.instagram.com/p/Ciag32BJBcj/

I want to design the pick guard of this guitar. It sits on the body, surrounds the pickups and is under the strings. Is there anyway I can break this image apart, edit the pickguard (re-colour) and then re-assemble?

Hi guys, in this video, I'm going to show you how you can create a fast-moving effect in Affinity Photo, to make an object of the photo look like it's moving fast. I hope you enjoy and learn something new from this video, thank you!

Over the last couple of days I have been trying out the latest version of Quark that I have been really enjoying using (2017 is the only version I have used.) To me it seems like this is going to be a very hard area for Serif to compete in given that there are two products that many are happy with that have been advancing since the 1980s (or at least there are people that are happy with one of those two options.) Even if Publisher was out today it would still have a massive challenge in competing with these two options especially at Quark's new low $400 entry price (and yes that is low for a product of that level.) To me it seems like Lightroom like products would be so much easier to compete with due to the fact that it is a field that is only about ten years old and still has a lot of room to grow. I still have several major grips with LR and also the way that Affinity Photo interacts with catalog software like Apple Photos. It just seems like the more logical step to me. I think the fact that LR is the one app that hasn't not yet been subscription only shows that Adobe is aware that customers could easily move off this product to a competitor more easily then many other more well established products.

Hello all: I am a 42 year old guy who's been in LOVE with Paula Abdul my entire life (since age 10). I was always obsessed with her "Foever Your Girl" album and album cover photo. Over the years, I always wondered what the rest of her profile looked like during the actual photo shoot. The photo was either cropped or taken from her neck up, which looks good, but I desired to see more. Well, a few photos from that actual photo shoot (1988) were leaked online and I used them to "re-imagine" what she might have looked like when the photo was actually taken. So I used images in Affinity Photo and masked in a profile which I think is a good approximation of what I was always looking for.

Good morning guys and gals! I am brand new to this software and forum, but I'm sure that I will be immersed soon. I've only owned Affinity Photo for 2 days, but I'm seeing issues with my old computer. I am using my school laptop as my main computer because it is all that is available right now. It has 8gb ram, 4 core i7, and a 256gb ssd. The computer itself handles the work I do fine (no video stuff and only simple photo edits with a max of 10 layers, usually only exposure related slider stuff). However, the issue I run into is that the computer only has 3 USB ports [ (2)3.1s and (1) c-type]. Since I use external hdds for all my photos, a wireless mouse, and a dongle for sd cards, I max out my ports without any space for additional stuff. I have used the dongles that give 3 or so ports from a single usb-c port, but that is ineffective in my case, since my computer ejects the dongle rather than the sd card plugged into it. I want to build a PC that can easily handle the extremely light photo editing I do, but doesnt cost more than $500, at the most. (I know, that is like wanting a brand new Prius for 10 grand LOL). My problem is that being new to this software I dont know what it needs to run well and how powerful a CPU or GPU it needs. I am looking at AMD specifically, but Intel would work if it's better and not much more expensive. Here are the builds I am thinking about to start, maybe upgrade parts if I can. Entry level intel. Top of my budget and not the best CPU etc, but would probably work as well as my laptop. https://pcpartpicker.com/guide/hXzKHx/entry-level-intel-gaming-build The modest AMD build. I like this the best, but it is $140 over budget and 500 is really more than I should spend.... https://pcpartpicker.com/guide/csQzK8/modest-amd-gaming-build Entry level AMD. Closest to my budget and still pretty powerful. https://pcpartpicker.com/guide/GFLrxr/entry-level-amd-gaming-build I already have a case that housed an hp Pentium computer. The specs state that it is a mid tower ATX. NOT microATX. I dont know if I could use that for one of these micro atx builds or if it is a totally different hole pattern etc. Basically, I need to know: 1. Do I need a GPU? If so how powerful? Will a ryzen integrated iGPU work? 2. How powerful of a CPU? If I get a Ryzen 5 with iGPU, will that work or do I need a heavier combo? 3. If I can use the existing PC case from my mom's old computer. (She upgraded to a chrome book so the PC is just sitting around taking up valuable shelf space.) I figure if I use it, it saves $30. Also, the psu should still work fine... 4. Peripheral stuff like psu, ram, etc. Thank you. I know this is a long post, but I need to figure this out soon so I can start looking for the parts. Again, i mostly want the computer for photo stuff. I have an xbox, so no games planned unless I get the "modest" AMD, then nothing too graphics heavy. I'm in engineering school, so I MAY use CAD software, but probably not a whole lot. Thanks again.

Hi, While I edit placed image in Publisher, I have noticed that this image would not be effected as original, but in Publisher only. Is this intended effect in Publisher?

Here is available Affinity Photo tutorial for creating a fruit juice manipulation. In this tutorial, we will see how to create orange cane juice portrait manipulation image.

Turn any photo in a Old 19th Century Photo with ease. This Step-by-Step Video shows you how to create this beautiful effect. It also tells you how to make a Master or Mockup File, that you can use with any other photo. Giving you the tools to make Old Photo looks very fast the next time you need it. This Tutorial shows how to take into consideration the special properties of old photo plates / films and old cameras, like dust and scratches, fewer levels of light sensitivity, uneven lighting of the photo plates / Films, different gradients and more. Find amazing Perks on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/sarikas Follow me on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/sarikastutorials Sources used: https://www.deviantart.com/rorron/art/some-old-papers-4-44172050 https://unsplash.com/photos/nRDopRnkEfI https://unsplash.com/photos/pAs4IM6OGWI https://inspirationhut.net/design-resources/38-old-paper-texture-downloads/ https://www.graphicsfuel.com/2015/11/10-free-dust-dirt-overlay-textures/ https://www.behance.net/gallery/59398743/Film-Grain-Textures-FREE

Affinity Photo is the best alternative to Adobe Photoshop. It is really the best photo editor. In this tutorial today we will learn how to do photo manipulation, in this video, we will see, How to create a Fist-Face manipulation in Affinity Photo.

Hello! I am just curious if there is a way to select a specific colour with the colour picker when editing a photo and change just that specific colour.. I've seen it done in videos of Photoshop, but I haven't figured out how to do it in Affinity yet! Thank you!

Anyone help me please with this problem? I have faced more time to complete photography product retouching work. which tools are the best for this work? suggest me, please.

Hi, I just want to ask if there someone of you has a video or pdf tutorial of frequency separation work flow using Affinity Photo in Ipad Pro? I just recently downloaded Affinity in my Ipad Pro and I would like to try the new way of photo retouching using my iPad. Before I do my photo editing using Photoshop, Lightroom, and Nix but now I would like to try something more portable and easiest way to edit photos. Thanks a lot to those who can help. Best regards, Judy

One very powerfull set of features would be curves that are not merely lightness based like the Hue VS Saturation VS Lightness Curves in Davinci Resolve. The ability to change saturation based on lightness or hue is a killer feature.

Here's a blog post I just wrote about using Darktable with Affinity Photo and the Google Nik Collection. http://bit.ly/2iaNDSS Happy Holidays! Stephen:)

This is to illustrate the benefit of not passing up a shot because of clutter. Every time I do heavy PP, the software will teach me something new. I just love this stuff! I did it in the beta version of Affinity Photo and find the unique "Inpainting brush" to be a wonderful tool for this kind of editing.

Thanks for bringing Affinity Photos to Windows.Just went through a couple of tutorials -awesome. Can you please clarify what is the equivalent or more in Affinity of the content aware tool in PS. Any tutorials to look up. Cheers

so i have trailed the photo editing and designer software and i am very pleased with how simple they are to use so i was wondering if there is any bundle i can both at the same time and pay a lump some instead of paying separately?.