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Showing results for tags 'focus merging'.
Hi, I am working on an iMac running Big Sur version 11.3.1 with the Affinity Photo Desktop version 1.9.3 and am having a problem with Focus Merge. I ran a few different Focus Merges on RAW image files earlier today with no problems. Then I ran a focus merge of 35 raw images of 43MB each and this time I am getting a blur on the left side and bottom of the output composite. When I look at the source files (where the left side of the original image is in focus) the source images show a weird corruption of the left and bottom edges just where the composite is blurred. There is nothing wrong in the original RAW image files that I used to generate the Focus Merge so the problem is created during the Focus Merge process. I have tried this particular Focus Merge (quitting AF in between trials and selecting the same RAW images) now 3 different times with the same result. I will include 3 screen grabs to illustrate the issue: one of one of the original RAW images I used, opened in Affinity Photo to show that there is nothing wrong with the file - one of the output of the Focus Merge showing the composite with blurred edges - and the last revealing one of the source images with the strange corruption. I hope you can fix whatever bug caused this problem. Many thanks, Sandi PS - out of curiosity, once I had the Focus Merge output, I wanted to open one of the original image files in Affinity Photo in a second tab to see that that file was fine but once I did, clicking back on the tab where the Focus Merge output was, I lost access to the panel with the source images. I could not find out how to bring that window of the source images back.
When using RAW images as a source for HDR, Panorama, Focus Merging, it shoud be possible to adjust the settings of Develop Persona. Currently the photos are imported without being able to do this. Please also refer to the threads above.
When correcting artefacts in a focus merge operation, it would be very helpful to be able to view the layers by using the arrow keys or scroll wheel on a mouse. Having to click on each one is tedious if you have a large set of 20 or 30 shots and also being able to view them like a flick book is useful to see how the camera performed taking the stack.