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  1. Color selection bug when selecting a color using controls with numeric text fields on Color Chooser. Turning OpenCl on and off has no effect. Win10 / Publisher/Designer/Photo V2 color chooser bug.mp4
  2. Hey all, turns out I've managed to import a wrong color profile via the Publisher app on my iPad and want to remove it. I'm having a bit of a hard time trying to figure out how and/or where to find it. Does anyone know how to handle or delete user-imported colour profiles? Any pointers would be appreciated! Cheers! Dennis
  3. Hey, recently I transferred to a new workflow that includes using a different Display Transform (AgX) for my images. Since AgX is compatible with OpenColorIO, I tried setting a destination for an .ocio profile (in the Colour preferences settings) both in Photo and Designer, then restarted the programs to apply the new settings, but **nothing seemed to change**. Later, I tried to do the same with Filmic's ocio, ACES' ocio, different ocio configs (v1.0 & v2.0)... No luck, still no change, all ocio setting are still greyed out. To be more specific, both the OCIO Adjustment layer and the 32-bit Preview windows have all the associated settings greyed out (shown in screenshots), as if there was no ocio config set. I looked around forums looking for a solution, but after hours of research, I have not found a solution, nor haven't encountered someone else having this specific issue. (This is the exact config I am trying to import: https://github.com/sobotka/AgX-S2O3) Any ideas where could be the problem? Thank you!
  4. I have many suggestions to improve this little useful feature; -Default color button; returns the primary/secondary colors to black and white. -Change Appearance to stroke/fill mode in Pen,Rectangle and other Shape related tools and also in curve edit mode; Because I think this feature is acting like Affinity Designer's feature when I'm using pen mode. you don't need secondary color when using these tools and it confuses me most of the time. -Change the appearance of the Color picker, somehow it looks like it doesn't belong there, maybe because the tip is not aligned with the circle next to it. -Right click is empty so it can be binded to choose secondary color, and to choose stroke color in pen mode. -Recent colors could be next to Color picker because there is enough space in every color selection panel( i.e. wheel based), for me this is important because it makes my workflow really faster. It's not visible in other slider modes. Also it could be added to Tools under the primary/secondary color viewer, for the tablets it could be really useful.
  5. To be sure, I won't include the actual copyrighted material, but I've included examples below to clarify my question. I have a high-resolution map of an area in black and white, and then a color version in lower resolution. I want to merge the two images, to get a more detailed map combined with color information. Figure 1 and 2 are the two sample images, and figure 3 is when merging them with the color blend mode. It does not give a proper result, with missing and washed out colors. Examples would be the orange roads completely disappearing and lines in the Wellington Barracks area disappearing, in addition to a generally washed-out image. No other blend modes give a good result either, but I might be missing something important. Figure 1: Figure 2: Figure 3 (merged BW + color):
  6. Hello. When I want to change something's color that uses one of my Global Colors it automatically changes color tool to Tint. It annoys me because there is only one slider and nothing else and I must switch it manually to Wheel every time when I want to change color of certain object without changing the Global Color. Can I somehow change it to use automatically Wheel for example? If not - it would be a nice, user friendly function.
  7. Good afternoon. I'm having problems with the color fill in affinity designer 2.1 on PC. Could it have to do with the fact that the figure I want to fill with color was made in an "architectural" model? I have tried to see in the manual if that model has any color restriction but it does not say anything. Please help. Thank you!!
  8. Greetings, I know what you're thinking - "this guy didn't search the forums before posting"…. I actually have been researching extensively for several weeks now, including several similar posts in this forum, and I've concluded that either my situation is unique or I'm just more dense than your average user (these may not be mutually exclusive lol). So, as the title suggests, I am searching for guidance on color correction on underwater photos. I'll preface by stating I am NOT a photographer, so my knowledge of post-processing technique is frustratingly minimal. It is for that reason that I had previously just written off my failures, just accepting really dismal diving photos. That changed when I was recently introduced to an iOS app called "Dive+". On a whim, I decided to run its color correction function on several shots I had on my phone, and I was blown away by the results! In more than one case, I actually "discovered" fish and corals in my photos that were previously invisible! The ease with which the shots were transformed has inspired me to re-visit touching up many of my underwater shots, but as you can imagine - iOS is certainly not the best or most efficient environment to do it. Re-visiting all the tutorials and articles on the topic, however, has brought me right back to where I began - slightly less crappy photos and a lot of swearing. It seems the majority of the methods described in tutorials (even those for photoshop or other editors) just don't produce similar results for me as they do in the examples shown. For instance, the vast majority of underwater correction guides suggest beginning at adjusting white balance. In the examples, adjustments produce immediate color and contrast improvements, while my photos simply turn from "all blue" to "all green". Additionally, suggested techniques using levels invariably begin with minimizing black levels and maximizing white…. In all my photos, these positions are already selected (and moving them in opposite directions only worsens the output). While I'm certainly willing to tackle a mild-to-moderate learning curve, I have no aspirations of professional photography. What's nagging me is the ease with which this free phone app is able to drastically improve my photos, as well as my inability to determine exactly HOW it corrects the images so I can replicate the process. Below is a random photo from my collection that I hope will better clarify what I'm attempting (and failing) to achieve: This is my original photograph: This image shows the output from the Dive+ iOS app: Applying "Auto" White Balance to the image in AP makes no discernable difference. When manually selecting a neutral area (white dot indicates the area I selected) using the white balance "picker" as most tutorials suggest, a green overlay appears as shown below: This final image shows my sliders for the Levels adjustment layer. Note that the sliders for black/white levels are already at opposite extremes, negating the ability to adjust in the way most tutorials have suggested. The sliders for master/red/blue/alpha all have identical positions. I've attached the original photo in case anyone is feeling gracious enough to play around with it. The edits described above are certainly not the only ones I've tried - I've been playing with pretty much every setting I can find in photo, develop, and tone mapping personas. While I am able to make some minor improvements to my underwater shots, they still don't compare to the difference I get with one tap on the iOS app. Furthermore, the results are very inconsistent compared to the app. For instance, I have freshwater dive photos that have a green saturation in place of the blue shown in this example. Results from the app on those photos are equally impressive, yet the only similarity in my manual edits is the lackluster result. I'd love to know what type of algorithm this app is using so that I can create some type of similar macro or workflow for editing in AP. Heck, I'd even gladly pay to add Dive+ to my workflow if it were available on the desktop, but it is iOS/Android only. If anyone can offer guidance on what I'm doing wrong, or direct me to any tutorial resources that are Affinity-specific, I would greatly appreciate it! Sincere thanks in advance for any advice you have! Best, Kirk ***NOTE: I have no affiliation with the Dive+ app, nor any software mentioned. It is not my intention to present Dive+ as an alternative or competitor to Affinity Photo; my impression is that the latter is a much more capable product in the hands of a knowledgeable user (which I am obviously not!).
  9. It would be nice if the color squares in the palette tab would be bigger so that it will be easier to select them with the cursor. I work on a smaller 13" screen, so it can be a bit difficult to select colors since the icons are so small.
  10. Hi guys, I have created a color gradient in a layer fx (see image) - now I want to copy that gradient somehow or ideally make it a swatch/global gradient. But I don't see how. Thanks in advance, Stefan.
  11. this is happening in all v2 programs but right now, i'm having difficulty in publisher. attached are screenshots of the problem. first shot is choosing the top grunge overlay layer to invert. second shot is ALL THE LAYERS getting inverted. can't figure out how to invert ONLY that which i've chosen. thank you.
  12. Hi, In this Affinity Photo Tutorial I show you how to improve the contrast and coloring of a low-contrast photo on a rainy day. For me, this day was emotional but the photo was disappointing because of the rain and the low light. So I found a way to rescue some of my impressions of my hiking day. I wish you fun. Ciao Jack
  13. Please fix the icons to contrast when the menu item is highlighted in blue. The icon will disappear. On the screenshot is the most painful place in ui, but wherever there is a blue backlight, the icons do not change their state, because of this they are hard to read
  14. Hi, In this Affinity Photo tutorial I show how to remove haze while preserving the fog and getting the colors back. The haze filter got over the years a new and improved engine and adjustments. I wish you fun and inspiration. Ciao Jack
  15. In Design 2 can the color of multiple layers, in a group, be changed without changing each layer individually?
  16. Implemented in Designer so far - the swatch reflow is tricky but this works currently. Also Mac and Windows version behave differently and affinity saves .clr files on Mac rather than .afpalette. This is the best swatch picker pattern by far as in the way it groups hues and tints makes color selection so much easier very glad to have go this to work. This version uses a 20 swatch row length.
  17. Thanks to this tool: https://github.com/philippbosch/tailwind-swatches I put together a tailwind palette have fun! tailwind.afpalette tailwind-swatches.clr
  18. Hello. I have a question or even a suggestion for implementing an additional function for color correction. I am engaged in photography and video. And to paint my videos I wanted to use the 3D LUT program for detailed painting, but then I updated the program of that feature in Davinci Resolve 17. But mostly I edit in Final Cut, some in Premire Pro from Adobe, and not everyone has the opportunity to work with color so selectively. For this most use and load a LUT. I myself have used Affinity Photo to create a LUT for a video. But! This "Color Warper" tool gives you more options for color correction. The killer ability to create masks based on color without using the selection tool. This is just awesome! I think that you should think about implementing this function in Affinities products. It also comes in handy for photographers to edit their work. It is a very flexible tool. Thanks!
  19. Hello Affinity fam! I would like to start using these forums more often and share with you the pieces I'm creating. Here is my latest completed piece. I leave you the information of the piece below. Greetings and thank you so much! https://i.imgur.com/d52WZnm.jpg
  20. Hi everyone! This is my first time using Publisher after needing a replacement for InDesign. This entire thing might be a little long especially since everything is so new to me, so I'll try my best to condense it! So far everything does what I've needed it to do, but when I export my file for printing, the colors are drastically different. I've viewed each file both on the HP laptop I am using as well as my iPad and the color differences show on both so it's not a monitor/computer issue. I'm not sure if there are settings I need to change or what. I've tried using a CMYK and multiple RGB color outputs and both give me completely different looks (CMYK makes everything blue and the RGB profiles made everything EXTREMELY dark.) I'll also be including specifics below in case more information is needed, as well as a photo comparison of all of the files. For starters, the project I'm working on is a comic so while the inside is in greyscale and I hopefully shouldn't have this same issue with it--though the blue tint effect worries me--the cover of the comic is in full color. When printing directly from my iPad for my initial tests, everything printed great, so I know it's not an issue with the specific colors I chose since, y'know... my printer could handle it fine. I'm printing everything as a booklet, at a half-letter size for the pages so I can stack two of the comics on top of each other (individual pages of the comic measure 4.25x5.5" so 2 spreads fit well on top of each other. As of now, I do not have the inside pages in the document as the main concern for the set up was ensuring the cover was going to print well. I know the layout for the booklet printing is going to have me do a funking way of placing my interior pages, but once again, it isn't my current concern. I've changed initial color profiles, final color profiles, swapped the render to perpetual, relative and absolute colormetric, used both linked and embedded files, and probably a lot more with the amount of times I've clicked, changed, and swapped settings around. Hopefully everything attaches in the order I placed them, but it will be the original, the CMYK export, and then one of the RGB exports. Each of the RGB look the same with minimal if any differences between the three that I tried so I'm just going to place one. The pdfs are also... extremely blurry by comparison. All of these colors match just about perfectly with my iPad screen with very minimal differences. Original CMYK RGB Please let me know what I can do to get the print-ready pdf to match the original! Thank you!!
  21. I think an option to display K100 as 100% black in the CMYK mode in Affinity is needed. Illustrator/Indesign has the option in the Preferences to choose the appearance of black. Everyone has their taste. you should let users choose.
  22. 👋 Hi there, I'm using Affinity Publisher on Mac. I am unable to get colors to display correctly. Under Document Setup, I've gone through every combination of color profiles to see if they change anything. I've attached a screenshot using the following color: #490AF5 The left color in the screenshot demonstrates what I see when I fill any shape I've dragged on to a spread using the Shape Tool. It is the incorrect color. The right color in the screenshot is the correct color. It is what I expect to see in Affinity Publisher, and it is the color I see in other design tools, like Sketch. Interestingly, I can drag an SVG on to the spread...When I change the SVG fill to the above color, the color displayed is accurate (the blue in the right part of the screenshot, not the purple at the left). Thus, in Affinity Publisher, I can use the same HEX code on one canvas, and see two very different colors for the one HEX code with transparency at the default 100%. I'm not saying this is a bug. It may very well be user error. I just can't figure it out. I'll be grateful for any help. 😀 Thanks!
  23. Brush color(black/white) behave differently from on the Quick Mask or the Layer Mask. I can paint only white regardless of the brush color. I would like the brush to behave like on the Quick Mask or the Layer Mask. Is this a bug?
  24. Elisse con foro.psdElisse con foro.psdHello, in the attached file I designed two elissi on a transparent background. The smallest is positioned inside the largest. How do you proceed to color the interior of the large Elisse, however leaving the interior of the small Elisse empty? Thank you Elisse con foro.afpub
  25. Hi all This has been the week of figuring out how to get my colours sorted in Affinity Photo. There is no direct support for the ColorChecker Passport from X-Rite in Affinity Photo unfortunately but I did figure out how to do it with some help. If you use X-Right ColorChecker Passport these are the steps on how to do it. This might be painfully obvious to some people but for me it was all entirely new and took a while to get my head around so I hope that this is some use to people. 1. When you are shooting your photos in a location take a photo of the ColorChecker Passports colour cards and the white card. Make sure they are in the same place as your subject matter and are properly exposed. 2. Import all the photos from your session along with your pictures of the ColorChecker. 3. Open your photos of the ColorChecker in Affinity Photo crop them down if you like and export them as 16 bit Tiff files. 8 bit might work but I have been going with 16 4. Open ColorChecker Tiff photos with the new beta version of ColorChecker Passport Camera Calibration software in the ICC tab. 5. Export your ICC profiles naming them something so you know what photo shoot they go along with. 6. Close down Affinity Photo and then re-open it to refresh the ICC database 7. Open your photos from the associated photo shoot and go to the Document tab and select Assign ICC Profile and select the ICC file you just created. And if all goes well your colour is mostly corrected. 8. Now to set the white balances correctly. Go to White Balance in the Adjustment section. Click the Picker button and then click on the photo that you took during the photo shoot of your white card. This will then automatically make the adjustment. I hope that helps some folks. I did not understand any of this stuff three days ago and it was no fun trying to get my head around it for the first time. If anyone has tips on how to improve upon this workflow please share. I am by no means an expert on this subject. All the best!
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