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Found 469 results

  1. I'm not sure how to do this but I am having difficulty removing a specific color on this image. I want to remove half of the water (blue) on this image. Or even change the color. What should I do? Thank you for the feedback.
  2. Hello, I suppose this feature is available, but don´t see how to get it. How can we set an existing swatch color to be global color and use as spot color? I already know how to add a global color, but what about changing an existing color? Thanks
  3. Hi, I write few pages about L*a*b* worflow for trying promote this space about decoupling Color & Lightness in L*a*b* here Lab.pdf this macros is on 1.7 version , not compatible with 1.6 Lab.afmacros Just read this answer Nothing new reinvent the wheel... But perhaps, some one, may have better understanding of this color space and more easy color apprehension, more easy color manipulation Sorry for my bad english, not my maternel language Have fun
  4. I`d like to have the ability to change a view (similar to contour view) but in black and white to check the contrast. I have tried with a B&W layer, but I have to adjust the brightness of individual colors. In the left side is how works this function in photoshop, in the right is with a b&W layes, as you can see the brightness do not correspond to the colors. Thanks
  5. Hello Everyone ! I would like to know what is the easiest way to match colors on a Photo Montage/Composition in Affinity Photo without going all this crazy and too technical way. Is Serif thinking about bringing in the Color Match Live adjustment ? it is needed and may help shorten too long workflow or steps. Blessings !
  6. PAULRFONTENOT

    THEMES

    Feature Request -Make more theme colors available than Dark or Light. -Make themes available as in the example shown in the screenshot attached "Gimp Directory Structure" -consider adopting the use of gtkrc themes which are editable as in the attachment "Gimp black" and "Gimp Directory Structure" and "Gimp gtkrc" -(I know that somewhere in your directory structure, you have the equivalent of a gtkrc file; consider making that file location within the directory structure revealed and editable so that we could choose colors we like for the background color, insensitive color, UI color, text, unselected text, selected text and insensitive text.) (Note that there is abundant third-party theme support for Gimp app as portrayed in the screenshot provided called "Gimp Directory Structure" -GTKRC files are editable and can stipulate any hex # for background color, insensitive color, tooltip color, menubar color, text, insensitive text, selected text, etc. as demonstrated in the screenshot attached called "Gimp gtkrc". Notice how, by editing the gtkrc file, when you have the ability to select black (hex # 000000) for both the background color and the UI color, for example, everything just jumps off of the background like a 3D effect ) Cool!!! -Alternatively, you could make these colors selectable via menus like in the Windows Operating system theme colors which can be selected by hex # for all of the aforementioned categories. -I have provided a copy of the Gimp theme gtkrc file and a screenshot of the main variables called "Gimp gtkrc" for the " Gimp Black" theme for your examination and consideration. -At a minimum, allow us to select the UI GAMMA slider all the way to hex #000000; that can't be much of a stretch as you already have written the code to allow setting both the "Background Grayscale" and the "Artboard Background Grayscale" to hex #000000 gtkrc
  7. Is there a short cut / shortcut key for quickly cloning the color of one object to another? For example, I have a square that is purple and a circle that is orange. I select the circle and would like to sample the color from the square to turn it purple. The only way I can seemingly do it is to select and drag the eyedropper tool (from the color palette), then sample the color from the square. Then I need to select my circle then click the colored sample from the eyedropper in the palette to change it's color. Basically, I'm looking for the exact same function that illustrator provides when sampling / cloning colors and I have to assume Affinity Designer would not make it a three step process when it could be one. In illustrator you can quickly shortcut key to the Eyedropper tool and it changes the current objects color to anyone that you sample. Thanks everyone!
  8. Print colors wrong on Canon Pro 100 printer. I don't think it's the printer because it prints fine on everything else, such as Luminar, lightroom, and Faststone image viewer. The problem happens when I try and put Affinity in charge of the printing and select a Photo paper for my printer. I tried ICC paper profiles from Canon and Red River, in both cases the prints were off color. If I put Affinity in charge of the printing and choose sRGB IEC61966-2.1 everything looks fine. If I let the printer have control of the printing and set the paper profile in the Print Driver, it works fine. I could go on, but basically... if I put the app (Affinity Photo) in charge of the printing and select a paper ICC profile, the color goes bad on the printout. Unless Serif fixes this, the only solution is to not use paper ICC profiles or use another program that does. The Canon Pro 100 came with Print Pro and that seems to work except you need Lightroom or another Adobe product to use it as a plug in. Affinity doesn't allow Print Pro to be used as a plug in. Has anyone heard of a solution to this or that Serif is working on a fix? Before anyone asks... Yes, my monitor is calibrated, and Yes, if I don't use the paper profiles the color matches my screen. If the pictures load... The left sides are the originals and the right are the printed versions in Affinity using paper ICC profiles.
  9. Hello. I’m at a loss.... I’ve been trying this find a way to adjust skin tones in my images by adjusting the RGB values of the original image to standard RGB values for flesh tones. I can’t for the life of me find a way to replace one RGB value in the image to another. I’m using Affinity Photo for desktop and iPad (both). So a way to do it in either would be greatly appreciated! Help!
  10. On Affinity Photo I want to export an entire black image to a 3x3 square of slices. As this square is bigger than original image, 8 exported slices but the center's one have extra pixels. When I exported slices, these extra pixels are white. I want them to be black. I tried many tricks without success: change background color of image, add a square below the image and fill it with black... No success. Extra pixels are always white. Is there a way to achieve this goal? Original image Mosaic of slices Slices As you can see, extra background is white. Top left slice
  11. I'm new to Affinity Photo and thought I was doing something simple, lol. I have a layer that is all black. I put a vector shape on it - a star. I wanted to make the star a bright yellow so chose yellow on the colors and used the fill tool, but nothing happens. Whaaaat?
  12. I find it hard to understand the effects that color profiles have on the colors of images in Affinity Photo. A raw image opened in Photo looks de-saturated, compared to DXO and preview in Irfanview. The JPEG from the camera looks better, but less saturated than shown in other software, like Firefox, Paint.net and Irfanview. Perhaps some setting of Photo overrides the data from the image? When developing the image I assign the ROMM RGB profile. From what I understand this profile keeps the highest number of colors available during editing. Is this true? After making adjustments I export the image as JPEG to use on Instagram and my website: during export choose the sRGB color profile and embed it. Other software like the Windows Explorer preview, Windows Photos, Irfanview and Firefox show the exported image more saturated then I see during editing. first convert the image by changing the color profile of the document to sRGB. Then exporting it the same way. Now the image is also more saturated then shown in Photo, but less than in option 1. What do I need to do differently to have the colors of the exported image match the colors I see during editing? This happens on a Windows machine with the color profile of the display set to the profile that came with the monitor.
  13. I am having a terrible time solving what seems to be a color discrepancy between what I am seeing on my monitors within the Affinity Designer & Photo applications and what I am printing out via my office printer as well as outside print services. While Affinity Designer & Photo display bright, crips images within the monitor itself, my print jobs from any file format appear very dark and dull, even when printed through third party print shops. I have had no issues in the past with other programs and their settings. I am wondering if there might be a color setting that I need to change internally to help your program accurately display on screen what my (and outside) printers will produce. If you have any other suggestions, they would be much appreciated.
  14. Can you convert from color to grayscale and/or black/white in Affinity Designer and/or Photo? This is very helpful for designing for the very few people who cannot see color in checking for background/foreground contrast.
  15. I want to remove the white from this image, I've adjusted the Levels so the whites are completely white & blacks are completely black. I've gone to the selection tab & tried the 'Select sample colour' but i can't find a way to make it work. I've spent the last 3 hours looking at youtube tutorials, FAQ's & forums yet i have no idea what i'm doing right or wrong, please help.
  16. Hello Peoples, Hello Team ! Well today i want to raise a point that we often skip as we move on to more cool and nice Affinity stuffs and that point is: Layer color setup ! Yes often want to make better organization of our layers and marking them with appropriated colors (personal way to code this and that) is often what we tend to do but ! The actual way to do that is a bit of ... not as bad but ... too long and too burried/hidden : Right Click on the layer - scroll down to properties then proceed ! Now let's think of it in a different way. (that's the purpose of this suggestion). I believe that putting a clickable square or round button in front of the layer (blank in the beginning) that we can just click to reveal the same drop down thing which i think should eventually show more options than just color and name). After we do what necessary, that button or square thing would then switch from its blank/empty display to the selected color and the layer name would also update when we close it by clicking out of that drop down stuff. Being able to lock it should be great too ! Also i see that function to mark a layer with a color is missing on APhoto (recent beta) while it is something important. Well that what i drop here as suggestion and i believe some other have though or asked the same. Please guys may you think this is important or just useful please drop your comment with more details or even a drawing of how you think it could look like (to help the dev team) or just click and like this topic. Blessings !
  17. Hello, The OCIO function looks interesting but, despite a tutorial dedicated to this function, I can not understand how it is installed and configured in the Preferences Colors panel to access the "View OCIO transformation" menu. I add that I am French, that I use the last version of SC under Win 10 with an i7. Thank you so much.
  18. Hello DEVs First off, thanks again for great software, I've been sending ~250 portraits through it since I bought it, and I love how the application just simply replaced Photoshop Over to my "needs".. I really need some features from PS days, and I hope you guys see why. "Apply Image" in Affinity Photo is not alike PS CC's version of it. I used to use this often to grab an RGB, R, G or B. CMYK or C, M, Y, K or even LAB L, A or B from a layer, a document or a file on the disk, then "apply" it as a mask - inverted or not - on to the selected mask, usually in normal or luminosity mode. I even use it for blending K channel from a dublicate CMYK document in to actual documents RGB composite to enhance faint details which is almost lost. I also use it to mix one of the RGB channels from same document in to the worst channel to enhance the details and remove noise (usually B channel), its called luminosity blending, check out Lee Varis and Dan Margulis photoshop videos. I don't see this is possible in Affinity Photo with the current "apply image", and I wish I had the same blending options in it like default layers so it will be easy to fix a "bad" channel in a image Check video below in this post. I also wish I could set one of the info readouts to a default readout, LAB for example, because I use this more often than RGB or anything else. Left side could be document format. I can change to LAB right now, but it doesnt stick to next image. I love to be able to save my own defaults than white and gra. Every single time I use this I have to go and manually set left one to black and right to white anyway because I rarly use this on other things than masks. It is really annoying After pushing through those 250 portraits since I bought Affinity, I'm really getting tired to recheck "current and below", I never retouch on background or main pixel layers and wouldn't suggest anyone to do it either. Make a new layer then use the healing brush with "current and below" is the safest way to use it anyway, so could it be possible to have persistent settings on these as-well? Check next 5 minutes to see what I mean of luminosity blending: Thats all for now Best regards, Aleksander
  19. Hello, What happened to the feature on Ipad that color picker appears when I press the pen 2sec on the screen? It was really useful in my workflow for blending colours... How can I pick/blend colors in the easiest and most efficient way now? Thanks, N.
  20. Greetings, while researching another issue I came across an issue I've been struggling with in the stable release for quite a while: When selecting a shape tool (pen tool, rectangle tool, circle tool, etc.) and immediately changing the colors and then drawing a shape, the colors (and stroke settings) will actually apply to the previously selected object instead of the newly drawn. This goes even further for the pen tool whereas you have to at least draw two nodes to be able to adjust color and stroke for the current shape. In my mind when I have a shape tool selected the context sensitive bar (which is actually changing depending on the selected tool, NOT the selected object, so there's an ergonomical issue, as well). should reflect settings to the shapes I am ABOUT TO DRAW. If, on the other hand, I select either the object selection (V) or the node selection (A) tool, I would expect the context sensitive bar to reflect options and functions corresponding to the SELECTED object. For me it is important to pre-set color and stroke to accurately visualize the design I am making. Right now I am forced to painstakingly readjust the shape (sometimes each node in a complex shape seperately ) if something doesn't fit. I hope I could bring my point across, and why I think this should be adressed from an ergonomical point of view. I attached a video illustrating the issue both in the beta (where I'd expect the change to be more reasonable than in the stable release), as well as in the release version (where the affected object even is the artboard which I very, very rarely change settings like color or stroke, if at all - do artboards even have a stroke?) I wonder, if other people found this to be an issue in their workflow. I am also aware, that this is a matter of workflow and taste, so I would suggest adding an option rather than changing it completely. Thank you for reading! Shape Tools Color.mov
  21. Hi all This has been the week of figuring out how to get my colours sorted in Affinity Photo. There is no direct support for the ColorChecker Passport from X-Rite in Affinity Photo unfortunately but I did figure out how to do it with some help. If you use X-Right ColorChecker Passport these are the steps on how to do it. This might be painfully obvious to some people but for me it was all entirely new and took a while to get my head around so I hope that this is some use to people. 1. When you are shooting your photos in a location take a photo of the ColorChecker Passports colour cards and the white card. Make sure they are in the same place as your subject matter and are properly exposed. 2. Import all the photos from your session along with your pictures of the ColorChecker. 3. Open your photos of the ColorChecker in Affinity Photo crop them down if you like and export them as 16 bit Tiff files. 8 bit might work but I have been going with 16 4. Open ColorChecker Tiff photos with the new beta version of ColorChecker Passport Camera Calibration software in the ICC tab. 5. Export your ICC profiles naming them something so you know what photo shoot they go along with. 6. Close down Affinity Photo and then re-open it to refresh the ICC database 7. Open your photos from the associated photo shoot and go to the Document tab and select Assign ICC Profile and select the ICC file you just created. And if all goes well your colour is mostly corrected. 8. Now to set the white balances correctly. Go to White Balance in the Adjustment section. Click the Picker button and then click on the photo that you took during the photo shoot of your white card. This will then automatically make the adjustment. I hope that helps some folks. I did not understand any of this stuff three days ago and it was no fun trying to get my head around it for the first time. If anyone has tips on how to improve upon this workflow please share. I am by no means an expert on this subject. All the best!
  22. So here’s the deal, I paid the 20 euros to buy this app to edit on the go for my events. I noticed this weird kind of color effect on the app which makes the picture look cheap and fake, the opposite of what this app markets itself as. At first I didn’t bother, but them I opened Snapseed a FREE APP and I didn’t get that when I was editing the same picture. I attached the pictures of both so you can see. I didn’t mess with Affinity settings at all and you can see I have basically done the same thing om both apps. I turned exposure down, contrast and brightness a little bit up and saturation a lot. Also notice that ugly shine next to the lip which automatically came on even before I messed with the pictures settings but the same didn’t happen on Snapseed? Wth if this is what you call pro editing app i want my money back!
  23. For those of you who needs Pantone colors support in Affinity Designer before the Serif team release an official support in it, here is a trick you can do. Firstly, you need an Adobe Illustrator licence to be able to do this, or install a demo version of Illustrator. Then you need to install SwatchBooker. http://www.selapa.net/swatchbooker/ Or you compile it yourself to get a Mac version, or you use it under Linux, or use it with Windows. Personally, I installed the Windows version into a CrossOver bottle and it works out of the box. Launch SwatchBooker Editor, in the File menu, select Open and choose one of your Pantone library in Illustrator. Then in the File menu, select Save as and select *.ase for the file format. Launch Affinity Designer and go to the swatches panel, click on the menu and choose import palette, as system or software, as you want. Select your exported *.ase color library. And that's it, you have loaded in Affiinty Designer your Pantone colors library.
  24. Greetings, I know what you're thinking - "this guy didn't search the forums before posting"…. I actually have been researching extensively for several weeks now, including several similar posts in this forum, and I've concluded that either my situation is unique or I'm just more dense than your average user (these may not be mutually exclusive lol). So, as the title suggests, I am searching for guidance on color correction on underwater photos. I'll preface by stating I am NOT a photographer, so my knowledge of post-processing technique is frustratingly minimal. It is for that reason that I had previously just written off my failures, just accepting really dismal diving photos. That changed when I was recently introduced to an iOS app called "Dive+". On a whim, I decided to run its color correction function on several shots I had on my phone, and I was blown away by the results! In more than one case, I actually "discovered" fish and corals in my photos that were previously invisible! The ease with which the shots were transformed has inspired me to re-visit touching up many of my underwater shots, but as you can imagine - iOS is certainly not the best or most efficient environment to do it. Re-visiting all the tutorials and articles on the topic, however, has brought me right back to where I began - slightly less crappy photos and a lot of swearing. It seems the majority of the methods described in tutorials (even those for photoshop or other editors) just don't produce similar results for me as they do in the examples shown. For instance, the vast majority of underwater correction guides suggest beginning at adjusting white balance. In the examples, adjustments produce immediate color and contrast improvements, while my photos simply turn from "all blue" to "all green". Additionally, suggested techniques using levels invariably begin with minimizing black levels and maximizing white…. In all my photos, these positions are already selected (and moving them in opposite directions only worsens the output). While I'm certainly willing to tackle a mild-to-moderate learning curve, I have no aspirations of professional photography. What's nagging me is the ease with which this free phone app is able to drastically improve my photos, as well as my inability to determine exactly HOW it corrects the images so I can replicate the process. Below is a random photo from my collection that I hope will better clarify what I'm attempting (and failing) to achieve: This is my original photograph: This image shows the output from the Dive+ iOS app: Applying "Auto" White Balance to the image in AP makes no discernable difference. When manually selecting a neutral area (white dot indicates the area I selected) using the white balance "picker" as most tutorials suggest, a green overlay appears as shown below: This final image shows my sliders for the Levels adjustment layer. Note that the sliders for black/white levels are already at opposite extremes, negating the ability to adjust in the way most tutorials have suggested. The sliders for master/red/blue/alpha all have identical positions. I've attached the original photo in case anyone is feeling gracious enough to play around with it. The edits described above are certainly not the only ones I've tried - I've been playing with pretty much every setting I can find in photo, develop, and tone mapping personas. While I am able to make some minor improvements to my underwater shots, they still don't compare to the difference I get with one tap on the iOS app. Furthermore, the results are very inconsistent compared to the app. For instance, I have freshwater dive photos that have a green saturation in place of the blue shown in this example. Results from the app on those photos are equally impressive, yet the only similarity in my manual edits is the lackluster result. I'd love to know what type of algorithm this app is using so that I can create some type of similar macro or workflow for editing in AP. Heck, I'd even gladly pay to add Dive+ to my workflow if it were available on the desktop, but it is iOS/Android only. If anyone can offer guidance on what I'm doing wrong, or direct me to any tutorial resources that are Affinity-specific, I would greatly appreciate it! Sincere thanks in advance for any advice you have! Best, Kirk ***NOTE: I have no affiliation with the Dive+ app, nor any software mentioned. It is not my intention to present Dive+ as an alternative or competitor to Affinity Photo; my impression is that the latter is a much more capable product in the hands of a knowledgeable user (which I am obviously not!).
  25. Hello, I'm not sure if this is a feature or a bug. But the color toggles don't inherit from one file to another. Also eyedropper requires you to open the other file, which results in the color not eyedropping in the correct file. Edit: One workaround is to make a swatch table with the colors you need. Something I never used in Photoshop, but I guess the best option with the current workflow in Affinity. I made a video to demonstrate the bug\ feature. It's a bit of a time killer because if I have 10 files that use the same colors, I need to do alot of eye dropping over and over to get the colors I need. Video Thank you
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