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  1. Fix a muddy paintbrush iPad and Desktop In this Digitally Fearless Affinity Photo tutorial I show how to fix muddy edges when using the paintbrush to create art. This is number 31 of my Powerful tools of Affinity playlist and shown in both iPad and desktop. https://youtu.be/QfgzMdRlduw
  2. I'm new to Affinity Photo for iPad. I'm using a 512GB 11" iPad Pro (2018) with a Samsung T5 (1TB) SSD attached. I'm using the Open From Cloud option to navigate to my attached Samsung T5 SSD drive to select a file to open. This seems like basic functionality but I'm having problems. I'm hoping it is operator error. When I select the directory on my SSD containing the file I want to open, it takes 75 seconds (!) before anything appears. The first time this happened I assumed Affinity Photo was creating thumbnails...until 4900 or so generic icons appeared. No thumbnails at all. If I navigate away from the directory and go back, it will take another 75 seconds to show me the same list or grid (it makes no difference) of generic icons. Is this right? Because I don't see how it is reasonable to expect me to locate the file I want to open without seeing a thumbnail. The file name is meaningless. Nor can I copy the files onto my iPad Pro. There isn't room. Is there a setting I'm missing? FWIW, the files in this directory are compressed RAF files. They do open fine when I click on them. What I really want—and it doesn't look like Affinity Photo is it—is a photo editing solution that allows me to work directly off of an SSD connected to my iPad Pro when I'm traveling to areas of the country/world where there is no internet access. I want to be able to review my files (at 100% when necessary) without having to shuttle them on and off of the iPad itself. Even the cheapest laptop can accomplish this. But it seems like software developers can't figure out how to make this work with an iPad.
  3. Hi everybody, im new to the Affinity Gang. I used to photograph a lot and worked with LR and Photoshop in the past. In Addition i had a little side business where i used AI from time to times. But because of my day job which is occupying more and more time (im becoming one of these workaholics...) i just dont have the time to spend with my hobbys, so I just couldnt justify paying certain Abos anymore. Which means im using my summer vacation, to get used to a new set of apps and i start with photo. This is my first try, editing a picture i took some time ago. Best Jazznow P.S. does anybody know a good comprehensive online course? I love how many tutorials are out there, but id really like to have a course where everything is explained in a coherent manner. Where i start with the basics. Learn about the ui, start with simple adjustments and end with composings. For example: I really liked the Bring your own Laptop Courses for the Adobe stuff.
  4. Is it posible to import pdf-s as image in affinity photo? Because many times client don't have all fonts what is embeded and used in pdf-s.
  5. We often look for the BIG picture -- that grand landscape or sea scape that few of us have close by . But inside every not so grand picture are 100s or even 1000s of little pictures that are just as good to practise photography and photo editing Example -- the first two are under 3" / 75mm From those raw files I was able to make this -- --1] twisted brain 2] ring of steel 3] moon abstract . Each name was thought of when taking the photo; 1] taken (all 3) on a block of land my son just bought ; 2] ring of steel is term often used in Australia to isolate covid19 ; 3] moon on the rusted incinerator . I find naming the subject when/before taking the photo (I never "shoot" a subject to make a "shot") give more reason for the actual photo I find that collage far more rewarding than a BIG picture the same as 1000s others have photographed How and why questions welcome work in progress
  6. noticing the picture is often the harder part of photography 1] original raw file 2] sort of as I saw it near the door We often seem to wander widely looking for a subject when there can be so much in the extended backyards never noticed . how and why questions welcome
  7. Hi. Since the update, the app is really zippy for the rest of the tasks but when using on my Fuji GFX 100s files imported from CaptureOne (102 mpx), Affinity Photo becomes painfully slow, especially when applied with few masks and frequency separation. May be there are some performance issues with high pixel density files? Is there some kind of optimal configuration that I'm missing? ps. I'm using it on a MacBook Pro M1 with 16GB RAM.
  8. Hello everyone. I've bought Huion H1161 pen tablet and started to use it yesterday but I'm experiencing some kind of incompatibility with all the Affinity softwares. I've set the lower button to be used as mouse middle button to move my artboards/pages but it doesn't work. I tried to change the stylus button as "space" but still having the same result. Is there anyone else with the same problem? Huion Client Support sent me a software to test the button and it is totally functional what makes me think the Affinity softwares have an incompatibility problem with Huion Stylus.
  9. Good morning, just wanted to know if there is any word on the implementation of a glyph browser for the iPad versions? I create a lot of maps and it would be awesome to be able to use glyphs directly on my iPad version instead of being forced to finish the map on a desktop version... All the best, Chris
  10. Add skin tones to black and white photos Affinity Photo tutorial (iPad version) I steal skin tones from other photos to colorize the skin on a black and white photo using gradient map levels and curves. You can also view the desktop version of this tutorial on my channel. #iPad #affinityphoto https://youtu.be/Z6wHBdZU7Pc
  11. Add skin tones to black and white photos. Desktop version.Affinity Photo tutorial. Steal skin tones from other photos to colorize the skin on a black and white photo using gradient map levels and curves. https://youtu.be/vWynJ6YG1Do
  12. hi all, i snapped a photo from an exhibition which i wanted to correct to request a print. while doing this i noticed something weird - the perspective filter becomes quite unusable after a crop. steps to reproduce: open image crop significantly try to (slightly) correct perspective find the "handles" of the perspective tool FAR outside the visible canvas area (see attached images for illustration). my question: is there a way to anchor the perspective handles around the visible canvas, and NOT around the "original" image dimensions? you can guess that being somewhat precise is quite impossible if you basically work with a "thumbnail" sized image during the perspective correction ... thanks in advance! axel.
  13. Made a new composing with Affinity Photo 1.10.0, no problems or glitches with AP during this work.
  14. To those people using zoom to navigate and brush masks 1. Select a color for masking(b or w), paint something .. lets try black. Or x to use default 2. Zoom out to see how it looks and zoom back in 3. Notice how the zoom tool also has a default color b/w (why?....) 4. Go back to brush tool 5. Congrats you just painted white cause zoom, for some reason... has a color.. and somehow applied to brush. 6. Now you dont trust the colors anymore and had to look at the color panels to check if you are in black or white color cause zoom messes things up
  15. I would throw money at Serif to charge me for these kinds of updates for AP on future more powerful iPads. This is sick! Creativity is going to be at an even higher output.
  16. Two here. One engraving stye and one a graphic novel style. Both using the HDR Merge technique.
  17. I work with png files with transparency. Currently, the only way I know to make an image with transparent edges is to select part of a non-transparent image, cut it out, and paste it in a new image. But once it's there, I cannot make more parts of it transparent. Is there a way to use normal drawing tools to edit the alpha channel of an image? (This is not the same as drawing with transparency, as that only affects the SOURCE alpha, not the destination (background) alpha). What I'd like to do is be able to directly change the background's alpha layer and paint "transparency" onto an image. I've tried drawing with only the alpha channel visible, but it didn't work. Any advice is appreciated. Great job on Affinity Photo - I love the updates. - Jeff
  18. In PS, you select a part of an image and you can just scale it or do whatever. No other steps are involved. Can't seem to figure out how to do such a straight forward operation
  19. I am new to photography and the entire post editing process all together. There are a lot of flaws I'm sure but I really enjoy working with Affinity Photo and enjoy all of the work I have seen here thus far. Please enjoy and let me know what could be addressed if you care to share:)
  20. Nik Collection 4 was released today (June 2, 2021) and the install procedure has changed. I found the steps at the following URL: https://help-nikcollection4.dxo.com/install_activate I hope this helps someone avoid the frustration getting the Nik Collection 4 installed to Affinity Photo. I was fouled up because I tried to follow the steps for Nik 2.5 and 3.0. However, the new release is installed for Affinity Photo differently. Edit: By the way did a quick test and Nik Viveza worked fine. Peace
  21. An engraved Illustration of a classic desktop wallpaper.
  22. I can't seem to rasterize procedural texture. Is the only solution to merge all visible layers?
  23. Turn Fall into Summer. The channel mixer, Affinity Photo Powertools #30. In this Digitally Fearless tutorial I use the channel mixer to change seasons. It’s simple and quick. This is the desktop version. You can also view the iPad version on my channel. https://youtu.be/cuopZtmAtu8
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