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Found 3,123 results

  1. I usually do still life photography but decided to play around with portraits and had a subject in front of a green screen, removed the background and I was looking for a good background to use and although there is plenty I've come across a problem of creating realistic depth so the person doesn't actually look like it's on a pasted background. Any tips on getting this looking more real or is it case of trying loads of backgrounds to see what fits?
  2. Topaz offers instructions for attaching their app as a plugin to AF. https://help.topazlabs.com/hc/en-us/articles/360001129351-Serif-Affinity-Photo-Using-Your-Topaz-Labs-Plug-ins When working in AF, I invoke the Sharpen AI app with the image I have open and the app connects as a plugin and launches fine. The problem is, it is non-functional - does not process anything. I've sent this on to Topaz and am awaiting their reply, but I wonder if there is any knowledge about this with AP people. Thanks.
  3. In the last weeks, my Affinity apps started to close by itself after opening. I couldn't find a pattern or any relationship with any other software on my PC (Windows 10, fully updated - nVidia driver update - Intel CPU and GTX 1050Ti GPU) and it seems to be totally random. I click on the icon to open the program... it opens and right in the moment after it opens, it closes (no crashing, no error, just disappears). After that... i can't open the software again, since it will keep behaving like that (open, close right after that). (Attached a vídeo of the problem happening). To use the software again, I need to reboot my computer and try again. Anyone have any idea of what is happening? There is any error log that I can use to check what is happening? 2020-09-01 09-34-04.mp4
  4. Hi guys, I just made this brushes 2 days ago. Here's the link if you want to download it: https://drive.google.com/file/d/19yzrVPnG8VIdnJzcJsHqzf8Hi6ALiIww/view?usp=sharing You can also check out the video below to see how I use these brushes. Hope you like it, thank you!
  5. Hi guys, I just made this brushes 2 days ago. Here's the link if you want to download it: https://drive.google.com/file/d/19yzrVPnG8VIdnJzcJsHqzf8Hi6ALiIww/view?usp=sharing You can also check out the video below to see how I use these brushes. Hope you like it, thank you!
  6. Post prosessing with Affinity Photo, added lighting, texture, LUT.
  7. Hello everybode, I would like to suggest the feature to export animated gifs from Affinity Photo and/or Affinity Designer. THis feauture would be so cool and helpful, because with it we could create at least basic animations. Have a nice day
  8. Hi guys, I just uploaded a tutorial video about how to make brush in Affinity Photo. I hope you enjoy this video. Thank you
  9. I've been playing around with song lyric artwork, and as it's the anniversary of the White Pony album I thought I'd do one for that. The lyrics are repeated (IIRC the text box is filled with the album lyrics 3 times) because to fill the logo would've required to blow up the lyrics a fair bit, which meant the logo didn't have very good definition. As a heads up, the lyrics do contain swear words. (I wouldn't have thought that counts as controversial, but happy to redo the post as just as link if it is). Logo and text and was done in Designer, background photo was edited in Photo. Obviously all kudos to the band for the pony logo and lyrics, I just did this a bit of fun fanboy art.
  10. I'm curious if anyone else out there is using Affinity products for making maps? These days , probably >95% of cartographers make their maps almost entirely within GIS software, but I was always frustrated by the limited options and lack of precision for controlling stylistic elements on maps in those software suites (both QGIS and ArcGIS), so I figured why not outsource the styling to Affinity products For those unfamiliar, mapmaking is not unlike standard graphic design. You have a document comprised of a bunch of different layers, some of which can be vector (like road lines, point data, etc.) and some of which can be raster (like elevation maps, aerial imagery, etc.). The only real difference is they are all encoded with spatial information. So what I started doing is using the GIS software just to compile and size (spatially aware trim/crop) all my different layers of geographic data, and then exporting a bunch of identically-sized layers that I then reassemble in AD / AP (i.e export a PDF of *just* the road lines, export another PDF of *just* the water body polygons, export a PNG of *just* the aerial imagery, etc.). As long as I maintain identical pixel dimensions for the exported raster layers, and identical aspect ratios for the vector layers, maintaining the appropriate map scale / size and reassembling the layers in AD/AP is trivial. Once I have all the data in AD/AP, I can take advantage of those graphic design features that GIS software could never hope to do, like advanced masking and layer blending modes, brush-based editing, pixel-perfect label placement (HUGE), etc. Another great thing is this method gives you ultimate control over design of the map frame and you're not stuck using the preset layouts and scalebars that are baked into GIS software suites. The included example is a map I made for my mother last Christmas of the area where her ancestors settled 150ish years ago. Its sort of like a modern take on the classic USGS topo map styles from the 50's-80's. (there are two typos I'm aware of, 'prairie' is misspelled in both instances, and 'convenience' is written as 'convenient' in the legend... if you see anymore, let me know!) cheers
  11. The base picture came from one of my many nature walks, and with a bit of imagination I tried to create a fairy tale type picture. Yes I know. . .I'm out there! 😀
  12. Way back in the good old 30s, 40s & 50s, before real science had begun to catch up with pulp fiction, there was a penchant among sci-fi magazines for mad scientists to experiment on scantily-clad ladies in glass vessels. I've seen quite a few on FaceBook pages lately, so I thought I'd have a go at making a realistic-looking one of my own, mostly in Affinity Photo.As far as possible I've used my own photos, but the unfortunate female is from Pixabay, the Mad Scientist is Doc Brown from Back to the Future with William Herschel's head (photo: Julia Margaret Cameron), the glass thingy is from off the internet; the tubing is some Affinity Designer image brushes I made for the purpose. The whole thing was largely inspired by Richard Hamilton's Pop Art collage Just what is it that makes today's homes so different, so appealing?. It grew organically, which means I had a half-formed plan in my head and mostly added stuff willy-nilly and moved it around till I was happy. Oh, and I had to paint everything electric-shock blue. I made this A2 size, which is a bit bigger than it needed to be really: the while thing is nearly 300MB, even after I'd flattened quite a few of the layers and groups. This is Hamilton's iconic work, which kicked off the Pop Art movement in 1956. In those days, cut and paste meant a pair of scissors and a bottle of Gloy!
  13. Affinity Photo Final Image Stock Photos arbinsidik.com
  14. Making found brush easier please give numbers in preview or names ? i tried found and finally founded smooth edge brush what is full colour what i selec5red in its "strongest areas". in previews is hard found and expect all brushes do finally (when they used amount x) this but looks is not. i mean in Affinity Photo. and why not Designer also if idea is suitable. and these brushes dont have name even help what shows when pointer stays top of them. and i feel these should be first choice not these very opague but not fully opague brushes.
  15. for example painting is not fully opague ? looks like this: i painted this black and when i pick color is 63,63,63. and in border areas there is darker values than middle. this happens other brushes as well. and used red does same. i feel this bug. i want for example airbrush stuff what is rounded edges but darkest area is black when i select black. in other program i can do what i want (and i feel there should be also happen same) but is so silly use program what is very old (is i think 1993 or 1996 or something like it) and change stuff to it and back and even more worse this other tool dont support modern wacom and multiply mixing mode for example,
  16. Hey there, I am having an issue that is driving me insane and I was wondering if anyone had any ideas. The colors in the affinity editor window for an image I am working with are wrong. I know it isn't a display calibration issue because the colors are ONLY wrong in the main Affinity Photo editor window. (Also I am working using a calibrated monitor) - They are correct when I open the source image file in Windows Pictures - They are even correct in the tiny little navigator window in Affinity Photo - They are correct if I export the image file and then open it in Window Pictures again. The only area where they are incorrect is in the main editor window itself. Colors look dull. Its as if saturation has been lowered. I have tried all sorts of things to fix it from working with different color profiles to different bit depths or even different file formats. Nothing has any impact. Whenever I open an image in affinity, it just looks "dull" This obviously presents a huge problem when working with photos as I can't make accurate color grading decisions. I've included a screenshot below showing an image at various steps of the workflow. You can very clearly see that the main large image is duller than all the others and if I sample say the center of the green highlight in the top left hand blur what I am seeing is also affirmed: - Source File: 15,27,3 - Editor Window: 28, 36, 13 - Output: 16, 28, 4 - Navigator: 16, 30, 5 You expect a bit of variance because I can't sample the exact same spot but the Editor Window is clearly very difference than the others. I have also included a screenshot of a new document just filled with red to rule out it being an issue with the photo itself. In that screen you can clearly see that the red in the navigator preview is richer and more vibrant than the red in the editor window itself. (The navigator is accurate to the color I selected) Any help would be really appreciated. I am running AP on Windows 10. I am hoping maybe there is some setting that may be wrong in my preferences?
  17. MY BOOKCOVER TUTORIAL IN THE AFFINITY WORKBOOK My work in book cover design caught the attention of Serif (Nottingham) and one day I got mail. Whether I wanted to do a tutorial on book cover design for the new Affinity Photo Workbook, and of course, I was happy to be there. As an example, I have contributed a tutorial for the design of the book cover of a fictional novel (Search The Woods): From setting up the document to the actual design and exporting the print edition, all work steps are carefully described. https://www.bodobe.de/mein-tutorial-zur-buchcovergestaltung/
  18. I have a pixel layer highlighted, but cannot change the color. How is this done?
  19. Issue/situation: In Affinity Photo I would like the tools ( Cloning, Inpaint etc ) to remember the last settings such as Source: Current Layer & Below, but it only seems to 'remember' settings such as opacity etc. Question: How do I get the last settings to be the default for the tools? Screenshots: See attached screenshot. Operating system: OSX Catalina 10.15.6 Affinity Photo: Version 1.8.4 Unusual hardware: Wacom tablet Intuos pro Any help or input on this matter is much appreciated. Thank you in advance. PS: if this post is in the wrong forum, then please let me know, and I will submit it in another.
  20. Hi all, Is there a way to hide temporary the Liquify Freeze Tool mask? Just like the Hide mesh checkbox. Cheers, Juan
  21. https://www.artstation.com/artwork/WKdLQv Was practicing different mediums by mixing 3D sculpting and Greasepencil in Blender and then finally finishing it with a 2D paintover inside Affinity Photo. Was a lot fun! Here is the original Blender version before the paintover for those who are curious.
  22. Feature request: It would be super neat of Affinity Photo's tools would remember last used settings. Specifically the source target option ( Current Layer & Below ) on the Clone and Inpaint tools. More info: I did post a question about this on a different affinity forum where you can see more info:
  23. hi everyone, when i try to focus merge 7 photos, it took 100% charge of my C hardrive. i've up the swap on windows, move it to the L drive. i've make a symbolic link from c:\users\profile\appdata\affinity to L:\ (have more place) and it sill put the c:\ on 100% charge do some one have a tip for me ??
  24. In the Develop Persona in the Overlay area: 1. Click on the gradient tool icon. 2. Create a gradient by dragging from top to bottom. Result: Gradient appears as coming across from the right edge of the image. Re-tested and this time drew a gradient from the left edge into the image and the result was a gradient was created from top to bottom. Windows 10 Version 2004 OS Build 19041.450
  25. In the UK English version of the Help on ‘Vector content defaults’ (or ‘Object defaults’ in Designer and Publisher) the word ‘synchronise’ and other words with the same root are variously spelled with ‘-is-’ or ‘-iz-’. Photo: https://affinity.help/photo/English.lproj/pages/DesignAids/objectDefaults.html Designer: https://affinity.help/designer/English.lproj/pages/ObjectControl/objectDefaults.html Publisher: https://affinity.help/publisher/English.lproj/pages/ObjectControl/objectDefaults.html
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