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Found 3,501 results

  1. Ran across a youtube video using the attached photo in a photo restoration video (watched about 30 seconds and had to try it myself). I found a copy of the photo and downloaded it. The after pic took a few hours spread out over a few days (I'm back working at the furniture store 😣) so it's a little each day.. Any constructive criticism welcomed, It was a lot of fun and I learned. Preferred the Black and White to the Sepia of the original, so converted it after I felt I was done. There was more I could do, but decided this was a good stopping point.
  2. I'm trying to make a tutorial video and got stopped when I tried to subtract rectangles from a circle. I'm making the vintage sun you see on a lot of t-shirts. I've already made the video for Deisgner and didn't have any issues. This issue does pop up in Designer sometimes, but I've always been able to work around it. Not so in photo. So I make my rectangles and line them up. Then I subtract them and the edges of the circle disappear too. I made a short video to show what I mean:
  3. I'm working with a set of Photoshop brushes and experiencing a bit of an issue with the shape of the brush. It's a cartographic coastline brush, so it's meant to hold the distance between its three points as you move and drag it in different directions. Is there a setting to make the brush function correctly in Affinity Photo? I've included examples of how the brush looks in both APhoto and Photoshop.
  4. I've been doing toy photography a couple of months now, this is my latest edited in Capture One, focus stacked in Helicon Focus then composited in Affinity Photo. Jawa & EG-6 Power Droid made by Hot Toys, I bought aquarium rocks, gravel and some coconut sugar, lighting done with 3x Atomcube Rx1 no flash used. https://www.flickr.com/photos/156415473@N07/ https://www.instagram.com/lee.m.ashworth/ Canon M50 EF-M 32mm 1.4 F5 0.3 sec
  5. https://www.bodobe.de/seerosen/
  6. Apologize if there is simply answer but I don't know how to do it. I'm just starting to edit images recently and I'm learning to mimic videos. I can get to the part where I move the watercolor image to parrot layer, no matter how many time I try. I'm not good at English so I'm sorry if my English is wrong. the picture below is mine. 画面収録 2020-09-05 14.45.41.mov
  7. Greetings, I know what you're thinking - "this guy didn't search the forums before posting"…. I actually have been researching extensively for several weeks now, including several similar posts in this forum, and I've concluded that either my situation is unique or I'm just more dense than your average user (these may not be mutually exclusive lol). So, as the title suggests, I am searching for guidance on color correction on underwater photos. I'll preface by stating I am NOT a photographer, so my knowledge of post-processing technique is frustratingly minimal. It is for that reason that I had previously just written off my failures, just accepting really dismal diving photos. That changed when I was recently introduced to an iOS app called "Dive+". On a whim, I decided to run its color correction function on several shots I had on my phone, and I was blown away by the results! In more than one case, I actually "discovered" fish and corals in my photos that were previously invisible! The ease with which the shots were transformed has inspired me to re-visit touching up many of my underwater shots, but as you can imagine - iOS is certainly not the best or most efficient environment to do it. Re-visiting all the tutorials and articles on the topic, however, has brought me right back to where I began - slightly less crappy photos and a lot of swearing. It seems the majority of the methods described in tutorials (even those for photoshop or other editors) just don't produce similar results for me as they do in the examples shown. For instance, the vast majority of underwater correction guides suggest beginning at adjusting white balance. In the examples, adjustments produce immediate color and contrast improvements, while my photos simply turn from "all blue" to "all green". Additionally, suggested techniques using levels invariably begin with minimizing black levels and maximizing white…. In all my photos, these positions are already selected (and moving them in opposite directions only worsens the output). While I'm certainly willing to tackle a mild-to-moderate learning curve, I have no aspirations of professional photography. What's nagging me is the ease with which this free phone app is able to drastically improve my photos, as well as my inability to determine exactly HOW it corrects the images so I can replicate the process. Below is a random photo from my collection that I hope will better clarify what I'm attempting (and failing) to achieve: This is my original photograph: This image shows the output from the Dive+ iOS app: Applying "Auto" White Balance to the image in AP makes no discernable difference. When manually selecting a neutral area (white dot indicates the area I selected) using the white balance "picker" as most tutorials suggest, a green overlay appears as shown below: This final image shows my sliders for the Levels adjustment layer. Note that the sliders for black/white levels are already at opposite extremes, negating the ability to adjust in the way most tutorials have suggested. The sliders for master/red/blue/alpha all have identical positions. I've attached the original photo in case anyone is feeling gracious enough to play around with it. The edits described above are certainly not the only ones I've tried - I've been playing with pretty much every setting I can find in photo, develop, and tone mapping personas. While I am able to make some minor improvements to my underwater shots, they still don't compare to the difference I get with one tap on the iOS app. Furthermore, the results are very inconsistent compared to the app. For instance, I have freshwater dive photos that have a green saturation in place of the blue shown in this example. Results from the app on those photos are equally impressive, yet the only similarity in my manual edits is the lackluster result. I'd love to know what type of algorithm this app is using so that I can create some type of similar macro or workflow for editing in AP. Heck, I'd even gladly pay to add Dive+ to my workflow if it were available on the desktop, but it is iOS/Android only. If anyone can offer guidance on what I'm doing wrong, or direct me to any tutorial resources that are Affinity-specific, I would greatly appreciate it! Sincere thanks in advance for any advice you have! Best, Kirk ***NOTE: I have no affiliation with the Dive+ app, nor any software mentioned. It is not my intention to present Dive+ as an alternative or competitor to Affinity Photo; my impression is that the latter is a much more capable product in the hands of a knowledgeable user (which I am obviously not!).
  8. I use Affinity Photo with the pen on a Lenovo A940 touchscreen. Since the update to 1.8 the patch tool does not work any more with the pen. After drawing the selection and moving to the source, it behaves normally until I click to apply the source. Instead of applying the source the selection is lost, so nothing changes. I can get around this only when I apply the source with the mouse instead of the pen. This is pretty cumbersome, and I would appreciate to get this fixed.
  9. Affinity Photo macOS (1.8.4): MD5: EDF9F773A55AE0C6F6F582E1117937CB SHA1: 95F9BBC7C334BA26DD695ED8716F6FAA94309B5F SHA-256: 5329929DFB3621F50267D71E680840EE16767808655F91B7DC9C66C165198D66 Windows (1.8.5): MD5: 200B11BD72CDD046CC1A9C2258EA6A10 SHA-1: 6AB1F63831D1DA446CF5CFE7B8675F1583730375 SHA-256: 28FB9B8FC867EF11FFBAE7A2ECD1225083DF71D21B5269711AC2F5BCC83EE050 Affinity Designer macOS (1.8.4): MD5: D1BA4F0D91497EAF2A4B6440836571B1 SHA-1: CFBA43AF88381F55BABC415431976427FC5688F7 SHA-256: BE5A3F58DFB69EABA73EF7897970DD7E91DC880C6DA8025F1E4D64F3AB6DB718 Windows (1.8.5): MD5: 88C2958569C21CB68E756AF924EE759F SHA-1: 52B9D27F98091374B0D1FC31CC6AE6D6A0E47612 SHA-256: 976C6447125115E748C509B8FE51D43849953D9B8A000E5AC13AB7BA25F67F1F Affinity Publisher macOS (1.8.4): MD5: 9346B013176A397898868F52AAEB2940 SHA-1: D6A6B4902490BFB7BD3842E8DDD2FB2178240DA0 SHA-256: 3BC2DF71168DB6C746E385BFD98AC7F1917C5FF8E266B52B8C2FFD22E516B70C Windows (1.8.5): MD5: E65A5F7AD22D79D59455419190EBD62F SHA-1: FE2B9C6F93420041CBBEB657613F020488B14FC1 SHA-256: 426467E4A8DB4287CDA80EE68E8503D850123021319EF064507554DDE66C45B2 You can also use online resources such as this site to verify the files. Another method is to use Terminal within macOS, as outlined here.
  10. I have ongoing problems with the collaboration between Affinity Photo and Viveza (2) When I quit editing in Viveza and press the Save button, Viveza quits and Affinity Photo crashes. Viveza and Affinity Photo are the last versions on Mac OS Catalina. Affinity Photo_2020-09-03-164850_Wolf-Rudigers-iMac.crash.zip
  11. Once again I delve into the realms of fantasy and science fiction. All photographs sourced at Unsplash, special effects supplied by me and Affinity Photo. The main portal structure did not exist so I had a go at creating one in a perceived 3D space - I think I did ok. As for page turning - that's something I have never tried before until now, I actually held up a piece of paper and bent one edge over and copied it as best I could.
  12. We were out in the deep woods of our Pacific Northwest hiking around a lake. When I got home I noticed that I captured quite the surprise...
  13. Hi, I've been trying to use the XRITE Color Checker Passport and I'd like to ask for help. I'm not sure if I'm doing this correctly. I saw in another message in this forum the steps to generate the ICC file. So, to verify if the ICC was correct, in my understanding, I can use it in the original picture and I would expect NO changes in the color or anything. It actually squeezed the colors towards the black and the image became darker. The original image, only with WB corrected is the Pic 1 Then, after the ICC was succesfully generated and loaded in Affinity from that image, when I apply the profile, see the Histogram: Pic 2 If I develop the picture, it will be darker. BUT... if I load the image, after the WB correction, and develop the picture, from Document -> Assign ICC profile, the picture is corrected, but the contrast decreases and it looks washed (picture Pic 3). So, is it a bug with Affinity? How could I verify the colors are truly corrected? Can I use the RGB values in Info panel to double check the color palete values? The ICC profile I generated I called it TODELETE. Thanks! Sergio PIC 1: PIC 2: PIC 3:
  14. This began life (or was resurrected -- see below) when I was fourteen, at school in 1965 when Games was rained off and I started doodling in a notebook whatever came into my head. I've still got the notebook somewhere, but I can't lay my hands on it just now to show you the original scribble.But here's the weird creepy thing ... ten years or so later I was idly flipping through a book, A Century of Creepy Stories, at a friend's house, when I came to an illustration ... that was my teenage doodle! It was different, obviously, but had all the elements: the old man, the long-case clock, the water ...And then I remembered ... when I was seven, we had a caravan holiday in Cornwall. Under my bed, I found someone had left a book ... A Century of Creepy Stories! The room is by Vidar Nordli Mathisen from unsplash; the bath from a photo by Max Murauer from unsplash; the clock and the wooden posts are my own photos; the other elements I borrowed from the internet.
  15. Am I missing a step while dragging an image into Photos and if I drag another, rather than opening it, it places it on top of the already opened image.
  16. Just a sweet little rose from our garden after the rain. She is called Pristine.
  17. Hi everyone, I am new to Affinity Photo and photo editing in general and I have a crucial problem. The preview of my edits that AP shows does not fit the exported files. Just for reference my screen is colour calibrated using a SpyderX and is able to achieve 100% sRGB. Looking in Windows -> Settings -> System -> Display -> Advanced Display Settings -> Bit depth I see the value 8 bit. Now when I look at the edited photo in AP (before exporting) I can clearly see shades of gray on the top left lamp, but when I look at it through DigiKam's ShowPhoto (which I read it is colour managed) I am losing all the gray detail in the top left lamp. I have exported to PNG 16bit (as I was working in sRGB 16 bit in AP) with the attached settings. The even weirder problem is that if I open the exported PNG in AP I see the exact same image as the preview. As far I know, the only profile that should be anything but sRGB/Adobe RGB/ProPhoto is the display one (which is found under Windows -> Settings -> System -> Display -> Advanced Display Settings -> Display Adapter Properties -> Colour Management -> Colour Management) that should be generated by a colour calibration tool such as SpyderX/i1Display/etc. Please let me know what do I get wrong as it drives me nuts that the export does not match the edit! Thank you for your time and stay safe! DSCF2205.afphoto
  18. Some textures and layer fx for a painterly finish
  19. Hey ho! My handsome cat shown in a new light - what do you think? Photo taken with my good old Nikon D90. Enjoy it 😃 Chris
  20. Hi, Unlike other applications Affinity does not have upgrades internal to application. It asks to download a 400MB + sized application and then upgrade. Why cannot the application run internal upgrades instead of making user explicitly download a heavy file and then manually upgrade?
  21. I usually do still life photography but decided to play around with portraits and had a subject in front of a green screen, removed the background and I was looking for a good background to use and although there is plenty I've come across a problem of creating realistic depth so the person doesn't actually look like it's on a pasted background. Any tips on getting this looking more real or is it case of trying loads of backgrounds to see what fits?
  22. Topaz offers instructions for attaching their app as a plugin to AF. https://help.topazlabs.com/hc/en-us/articles/360001129351-Serif-Affinity-Photo-Using-Your-Topaz-Labs-Plug-ins When working in AF, I invoke the Sharpen AI app with the image I have open and the app connects as a plugin and launches fine. The problem is, it is non-functional - does not process anything. I've sent this on to Topaz and am awaiting their reply, but I wonder if there is any knowledge about this with AP people. Thanks.
  23. In the last weeks, my Affinity apps started to close by itself after opening. I couldn't find a pattern or any relationship with any other software on my PC (Windows 10, fully updated - nVidia driver update - Intel CPU and GTX 1050Ti GPU) and it seems to be totally random. I click on the icon to open the program... it opens and right in the moment after it opens, it closes (no crashing, no error, just disappears). After that... i can't open the software again, since it will keep behaving like that (open, close right after that). (Attached a vídeo of the problem happening). To use the software again, I need to reboot my computer and try again. Anyone have any idea of what is happening? There is any error log that I can use to check what is happening? 2020-09-01 09-34-04.mp4
  24. Hi guys, I just made this brushes 2 days ago. Here's the link if you want to download it: https://drive.google.com/file/d/19yzrVPnG8VIdnJzcJsHqzf8Hi6ALiIww/view?usp=sharing You can also check out the video below to see how I use these brushes. Hope you like it, thank you!
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