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Found 2,145 results

  1. Hello Affinity community! I'm using Affinity Photo 1.5.2.69 on Windows 10. The soft proof adjustment offers me the following options: select profile Rendering Intent Black point compensation Gamut Check Opacity Blend Mode Blend Options But where can I enable or disable "simulate paper color"? I can't find it. Thanks for your help!
  2. I am using Affinity Photo Desktop 1.6.11. I am trying to open an EPS file, but only part of the file opens and can be manipulated. The top and the left side of the image is cropped, and those elements of the image do not show up in the list of layers. (See screenshot -- there should be a fifth book on top of the red one; that fifth book shows up when I open the file in Preview.) What am I doing wrong? Thanks in advance!
  3. A commissioned map, drawn in AP, with design elements from AD added.
  4. I love hiking through the great southwest and taking many thousands of snaps, mostly of landscapes because my damn DSLR lens won't focus on small stuff. I recently threw my worn-out camera away and replaced it with a "toy" iPhone XR camera and three Moment lenses. Now I can take home some high resolution photos of small (even tiny) things that don't move while I'm shooting at them. That's better than nothing, and I don't have to carry around several thousand dollars worth of heavy photography equipment. If there is any interest I will describe in detail how I use CameraPixels on my iPhone XR to focus bracket up to 50 images and Affinity Photo to focus align and merge the images. There is a wonderful world of macro photography right at our fingertips, and it doesn't have to cost thousands of dollars. This first image below, about one cm across and one cm deep, was taken with a Moment macro lens attached to an iPhone XR mounted on a tripod. CameraPixels was used to focus bracket 40 images, and Affinity Photo was used to focus align and merge the images as well as remove a halo around the petals. The third image shows the sexual part of a bright red geranium flower taken with the iPhone XR and Moment macro lens. Moment claims a 10X magnification from this lens, and I've verified that with a ruler. Imagine looking at a three to five inch cluster of bright red geranium flowers and staring into a single flower that is about 3-5 cm wide. What you see in this third image is the reproductive part of one of those flowers; the image is about 2 cm wide. Look closely at the detail in this image. See the tiny piece of fiber stuck to the pollen on one of the stamens? The middle image was clipped out of the right image in Affinity Photo and expanded using Bicubic Interpolation. We can clearly see the individual pollen particles. This is over a 50X magnification!
  5. A late finished Saturday night composite.
  6. For a presentation I would like to create the effect of torn paper for highlighting a detail of a piece of paper. For example, there is an aricle in a newspaper and I want to place a ripped piece of the newspaper in my presentation with the torn paper effect. Unfortunately I was unable to find an approach, how I can make this in Affinity Photo. That is why I am asking for help here. I would be very thankful if someone could explain steps how I can create the effect of torn paper with Affinity Photo. Thank you very much in advance.
  7. Hi community, I've found an odd behavior (bug or feature?) on my macos Affinity Photo 1.6.7. Sometimes when I duplicate (command+J) a group and I edit the contents of a layer within the duplicated group, for instance it's position or size, the changes are also affecting the original group. Am I missing something or there's a way to prevent this from happening? Thanks! Ale
  8. First image (of course) is a dandelion which is edible. Second image is of the flowers of red russian kale plant. Third image --- the one that looks like a hairy egg in a thorny nest --- is a thistle plant going to seed. The stalk is edible and tastes much like celery. The last image is of a flower that my wife says it related to the "sweet pea" family --- yeah, the one sticking its tongue out at the camera.
  9. Non disponendo di attrezzature fotografiche di grande livello, mi limito agli aspetti superficiali della natura, giocando con le forme senza necessariamente assumere rigore scientifico o plausibile nella ripresa. Con Affinity Photo mi sono limitato a correggere le temperature colore, ripulire la foto da polvere, polline e pelucchi, in qualche caso de-saturare o esaltare le luci ed esportare in .Jpeg. Il software si è comportato molto bene. ricordo un solo crash che si è risolto senza perdita del lavoro alla riapertura del programma.
  10. I kept getting an -200 error when trying to upload a photo. And for some reason cannot delete this post.
  11. I fixed perspectives lines, a bit of saturation and contrast et voilà: some interesting palace on Madrid. Affinity Photo 1.7: great piece of software!!
  12. As I learn Photo, I decided to edit the same image in Photo then in DxO Photo Lab 2. My photo editing workflow starts in Lightroom 6 (no subscription for me) for asset management, quick edits, applying a watermark and to create online galleries for client review. I've been using DxO for a few years. One downside is the .afphoto file in this exercise is 545 MB. The Nikon NEF or RAW file from a D7500 is 24.9 MB. After editing in DxO Photo Lab 2, the image goes back to LR6 as a TIFF - 28.5 MB, so DxO wins over Affinity as far as hard drive economy goes. Interestingly, the JPEG from Photo is smaller, but that might be due to the intermediate TIFF. I intend to use Affinity Photo for composites (layers) and graphic screens with text for video. The image with the watermark was edited in DxO, then sent back to LR for watermark and resized for export. The image without the watermark was edited and resized in Photo. There are subtle differences as a result of the way the two softwares process images. At the moment, DxO does the best job for noise reduction in RAW or NEF images. By the way, the photo is of fringes on a scarf hanging on stair railing in morning sun. It caught my eye as I was going by.
  13. Hi, I’m having a glitch while using the Affinity Photo app. The version is 1.6.12.86. The iOS version on the iPad Pro 12.9 inch 3rd gen (2018) is 12.2. Basically the problem consists in that when I make a new document (in this case a print a4 doc), and make a pixel layer and start drawing with the paint brush tool, I get slight artefacts on the screen (like blocks or squares or so, and they disappear and reappear randomly). I have seen in other forums that some are also having this issue, but just with the latest iPad Pro versions (11 inch and 12.9 inch, 3rd gen models). It’s a really annoying thing, since I want to use the program for sketching and drawing a lot and this makes the experience really bad, considering it’s an otherwise excellent application! Here’s a video attached so you can understand it better. You can see the first glitches at 0:56s, and major glitches at 2:13 (which is what I normally experience a lot). Thank you. 5856E5F3-D0C3-4B14-BA1E-C19DB1BA32A8.MP4
  14. Hi, I'm new to affinity designer although I have been using affinity photo for a while. I'm needing to convert some type to outlines. Bit confused- is converting to 'curves' the same as converting to outlines and how do I do it? Thanks!
  15. Hello: I just purchased Affinity Photo today, hoping to replace Adobe and their subscription. But I am having trouble with one thing - resizing. I am a digital artist, and I save all my work at 300 dpi so it can be used to create fine art prints. But no matter how I try and how many tutorials I watch, I cannot get Affinity Photo to save anything at more than 72 dpi. Watched the tutorials on Vimeo, YT, looked through the Affinity FAQ, googled for any solution at all, and I can find nothing that will allow me to save a document at 300 dpi. What am I missing, or is this not possible? If it's not possible, then I'm afraid AP is not the software I need. Thanks for your help in advance! barbaralbs
  16. Hello ! I noticed a bug that (seemingly) only happens when, instead of opening a file from my drive, I copy an image from the web then create a new file and paste it as a layer : when I want to isolate a part of that layer, I make a selection around that part, then either cut that selection to copy it to another layer or invert the selection and delete the rest. But here, in both cases, the whole layer gets cut or deleted, not taking my selection into account. I tried to do this through keyboard shortcuts and through the Edit menu, to the same result. I also noticed that copying and pasting a selection also copies and pastes the whole layer.
  17. Find out which is for you. Affinity Photo and Affinity Designer both have their purpose. Here is a basic intro on what they are best at. Understand the difference between Vector and Pixel. Learn how to work with Art-boards and become more efficient as a designer. Paper Sizes: https://papersizes.io/a/ Find amazing Perks on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/sarikas Follow me on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/sarikastutorials Photo used: https://unsplash.com/photos/RwHv7LgeC7s
  18. Hello! I am fairly new to Affinity Designer and Photo, but I feel that this problem isn’t due to my lack of experience. But if it is, I will be even more grateful for any expert advice and counsel comming my way. I have been using AD and AP for illustrating and I have been noticing some bugs in the raster brush response. I have experiemented with a mouse, a Huion graphics tablet, and a XP-Pen Artist 15.6 tablet. I am finding the same problems using all three when creating art with rasher brushes (especially in Affinity Photo). Today it was so bad that I was unable to much of anything. In fact, AD totally crashed on me today (I was very please that it was able to recover my work though!) With that all laid out on the table— In describing the bugs in more detail: I am experiencing a tremendous amount of lagging and choppiness when I sketch/stamp/paint (especially with bigger brushes or brushes that have been customized/specially made by third parties like DAUB or Frankentoon). Some brushes don’t even show up at all. All of the brushes are super small for some reason, though I am working in 300 dpi, I feel like I should be able to upsize my brushes without any huge problems occurring... I definitely cannot work a document that is any higher in dpi without being absolutely crippled in my sketch/stamp/painting performance. I am not having this problem as much with the eraser tool. I’m mostly noticing it with the paint and stamps brushes. Any help here will be greatly appreciated. (I can provide screenshots if requested. I felt that I wasn’t really able to convey what I’m describing in just a screenshot, but if it is helpful, let me know and I will post some.) Thank you!
  19. Had some rain overnight, so got a couple more dianthus pics I liked
  20. Learn how to create a star filled sky in easy steps. In this tutorial I show you how to fill any night sky with stars and make them look dreamy and awesome. We are going to learn how to mask & group the layers. Use Blend Modes Hard Light, Soft light and Screen to our advantage. We look at the Blur Layer Effect as a fast and easy way to make images dreamy. Let's get started Sky replacement Tutorial: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lUQwCgU941I Support me on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/sarikas Follow me on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/sarikastutorials Photos used: https://unsplash.com/photos/9wH624ALFQA https://unsplash.com/photos/4wzRuAb-KWs
  21. Another thing I was wondering...can you do any type of animations in Affinity aa of now? Like you can with Adobe. And if not, do you guys think this may be something they do in the future? With the steady climb in popularity of video and animation, I think it would be really cool if Affinity did implant that in some way. Either added with Designer or even a new app similar to After Effects would be cool. I'm still going to use Designer and Photo but I'm really trying to eliminate any need to have to use Adobe ever again and be locked into their contracts. I was just curious. Thank you in advance!
  22. Hello, I have tryed brushes, blanding modes an effects on paper surfaces. I think it is interesting to work free in Affinity. This one it is done in AffinityPhoto.
  23. tycoon1954

    Old Photo

    Hi All Can anyone please help me. This is an old photo of one of my grandparents the photo is on the back of a bean tin and you can only just see the picture as it is almost gone black i scanned it and loaded it into Affinity and made some adjustments but would like to see if I can get it better can any help or tell me how to do it. Thank You Andrew
  24. Here is available Affinity Photo tutorial for creating a fruit juice manipulation. In this tutorial, we will see how to create orange cane juice portrait manipulation image.
  25. some recent images that travelled through Affinity Photo -- old fashion dodge and burn would the most used tool used in these images Lumix Fz300 Just like a big kid : throw -- throw it ----- ------ ----- ----- not so far next time Lonely pelican three photos of the one tree >background is bark from a nearby tree + a little texture brushing as above plus : black and white adjustment layer with a multiply blending layer + the orton effect I saw something in this long dead tree root beside the river ; however what I saw was not quite like how it ended up Very similar edits as the above files > honest comments / suggestions for next time / questions welcome
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