Peter47628

I'm glad to hear thet, Stuart. Rocks, little crystal pieces, amber too, I bought last year and stacked a lot of them with my lumix fz1000. But that would be another thread, when showing some examples.
Here is my microscope (without cam fitted, and without light). I modified the fine drive a little.  One complete turnaround of the knob is 0,1 mm and there were 50 degrees, one step therefore is 0,002 mm. Now I have at maximum 400 degrees with that black wheel I mounted, 8 times finer. It is needed when I use 16x or 20x lenses, not generally. 

Stuart, no rocks, it was a solution of ascorbine-acid powder in destilled water, what crystalled again then when I put a drop or two on a glas. You can also take ethanol + water for the solution.
I've to learn a lot doing this within different crystalic powders, but it makes a lot of fun. 
Here are two examples when you put only the polarizer and analyzer on the right place into the light-beam - and when you place a piece of acryl there, too. But it must be molecularly deformed, as a cd-case for example. If not and it is only transparent, nothing happened and the colors will keep pastellic. It's ascorbine acid/vitamin C again.
 

It's the second I'll do beneath macro-stacks (indoor).I use a clockwork-lomo micorscope, build in 1973, an 21 mp ocular-cam hy-1138 from china, and for some photos I use not only polarizing filters but a cd-case for more colors.
This pic consisted of 172 jpg's with a ROW 6,0/0,15 lens.

Here are the pics

Thx for welcoming You know - until 10/2019 I used AP for focus-stacking - macro and micro. Then I let remove the IR-Filter in front of the sensor from one of my Lumix FZ1000. Cause we had some days with good weather last october, I could shoot a lot of photos. Now in winter I restore slides which I had scanned years ago (and AP is even very good for doing), but I'm waiting for spring and summer

No, it's not an apple, it's a small berry. And the second one - yes, is microskopy. A soluted crystal, recrystalled on a glass. With two crossed polarizing filters, manuell stacked for through-going sharpness.
The former was ascorbine acid/vitamin C, this one is wine acid..

I'm glad to hear thet, Stuart. Rocks, little crystal pieces, amber too, I bought last year and stacked a lot of them with my lumix fz1000. But that would be another thread, when showing some examples.
Here is my microscope (without cam fitted, and without light). I modified the fine drive a little.  One complete turnaround of the knob is 0,1 mm and there were 50 degrees, one step therefore is 0,002 mm. Now I have at maximum 400 degrees with that black wheel I mounted, 8 times finer. It is needed when I use 16x or 20x lenses, not generally. 

Stuart, no rocks, it was a solution of ascorbine-acid powder in destilled water, what crystalled again then when I put a drop or two on a glas. You can also take ethanol + water for the solution.
I've to learn a lot doing this within different crystalic powders, but it makes a lot of fun. 
Here are two examples when you put only the polarizer and analyzer on the right place into the light-beam - and when you place a piece of acryl there, too. But it must be molecularly deformed, as a cd-case for example. If not and it is only transparent, nothing happened and the colors will keep pastellic. It's ascorbine acid/vitamin C again.
 

It's the second I'll do beneath macro-stacks (indoor).I use a clockwork-lomo micorscope, build in 1973, an 21 mp ocular-cam hy-1138 from china, and for some photos I use not only polarizing filters but a cd-case for more colors.
This pic consisted of 172 jpg's with a ROW 6,0/0,15 lens.

Stuart, no rocks, it was a solution of ascorbine-acid powder in destilled water, what crystalled again then when I put a drop or two on a glas. You can also take ethanol + water for the solution.
I've to learn a lot doing this within different crystalic powders, but it makes a lot of fun. 
Here are two examples when you put only the polarizer and analyzer on the right place into the light-beam - and when you place a piece of acryl there, too. But it must be molecularly deformed, as a cd-case for example. If not and it is only transparent, nothing happened and the colors will keep pastellic. It's ascorbine acid/vitamin C again.
 

It's the second I'll do beneath macro-stacks (indoor).I use a clockwork-lomo micorscope, build in 1973, an 21 mp ocular-cam hy-1138 from china, and for some photos I use not only polarizing filters but a cd-case for more colors.
This pic consisted of 172 jpg's with a ROW 6,0/0,15 lens.

@ gypsythief: You are using a Panasonic G9? I'm stacking with the FZ1000. But, if you use the ImageApp and GBracket too, stacking is nearly full automatic. You then set the middle sharpness on your cam, the nearest and the farest point on GBracket then, select the stepping (1-10), some parameters you can also change as ISO, shutter speed, aperture, and then GB does the rest. GB has been programmed by a German doctor (Holger Kremmin), and runs only in combination with the ImageApp - on IOS or Android. What you also can do, are HDR-Stacks (up to 7 series) and - HiRes-Stacks with the G9. The largest number of pictures for a stack is 1025 - and, if you do extremly close up, you get near to it.
This is an example done with the Raynox 250 close-up lens mounted on my fz1000 - a butterfly-detail, consisting of 233 raw's, and a prepared beetle too, with raynox 150..
 

It's the second I'll do beneath macro-stacks (indoor).I use a clockwork-lomo micorscope, build in 1973, an 21 mp ocular-cam hy-1138 from china, and for some photos I use not only polarizing filters but a cd-case for more colors.
This pic consisted of 172 jpg's with a ROW 6,0/0,15 lens.

Its my hobby doing this with the FZ1000, Canon 500D + Raynox 150/250 achromats, two light tents,  macro led lamps,  and several under- and backgrounds as mirrors etc. Remote control when shooting series via Panasonic ImageApp and GSimpleRelease. Before AP I used Zerene Prosumer to get one photo from the staple. Here some examples what I'm doing.
Sorry for my english

Thanks, John.
Here is a picture which took a lot more shots, exactly 426, and AP had about 3 hours to do with this gauge "N" locomotive. Cause I let it always do RAW-Stacking, and do not convert the RAW-Staple into TIFF before.  But, I'm an old man and have time enough for waiting until it's ready And, Focus Stacking makes a lot of fun, as well as post-processing with AP, too.
 
Peter

John,
the number of shots is taken automatically by GSimpleRelease, the remote-control app-tool. I have to fix there the nearest and the farest point of sharpness, then start it, and it shot the serie. And had within other motives more than 168 shots.
The way is so: At first I have to connect my FZ1000 with the Panasonic ImageApp - when they have connected, I have to start GSimpleRelease and do so as I wrote.
The processing time mostly is about half an hour, sometimes a little more. And steps - if you choose in GSR a larger number than 1,  you will loose details.
I will soon connect my Samsung S7 to an old 21" monitor, thinking  that it is easier this way to find the sharpness-points as within the little displays on camera or handy.
Peter

Its my hobby doing this with the FZ1000, Canon 500D + Raynox 150/250 achromats, two light tents,  macro led lamps,  and several under- and backgrounds as mirrors etc. Remote control when shooting series via Panasonic ImageApp and GSimpleRelease. Before AP I used Zerene Prosumer to get one photo from the staple. Here some examples what I'm doing.
Sorry for my english

Its my hobby doing this with the FZ1000, Canon 500D + Raynox 150/250 achromats, two light tents,  macro led lamps,  and several under- and backgrounds as mirrors etc. Remote control when shooting series via Panasonic ImageApp and GSimpleRelease. Before AP I used Zerene Prosumer to get one photo from the staple. Here some examples what I'm doing.
Sorry for my english

Its my hobby doing this with the FZ1000, Canon 500D + Raynox 150/250 achromats, two light tents,  macro led lamps,  and several under- and backgrounds as mirrors etc. Remote control when shooting series via Panasonic ImageApp and GSimpleRelease. Before AP I used Zerene Prosumer to get one photo from the staple. Here some examples what I'm doing.
Sorry for my english

Its my hobby doing this with the FZ1000, Canon 500D + Raynox 150/250 achromats, two light tents,  macro led lamps,  and several under- and backgrounds as mirrors etc. Remote control when shooting series via Panasonic ImageApp and GSimpleRelease. Before AP I used Zerene Prosumer to get one photo from the staple. Here some examples what I'm doing.
Sorry for my english

Its my hobby doing this with the FZ1000, Canon 500D + Raynox 150/250 achromats, two light tents,  macro led lamps,  and several under- and backgrounds as mirrors etc. Remote control when shooting series via Panasonic ImageApp and GSimpleRelease. Before AP I used Zerene Prosumer to get one photo from the staple. Here some examples what I'm doing.
Sorry for my english

Thank You for Your support.  AP does the same as Zerene (costs 200€), the same as Photoshop, and as any RAW-Converter.  It's great.