Sugar Lion

How is it possible that in a program that is supposed to be professional I cant even find out how long my line is while I draw it consistently. I am not a professional at all. All I am trying to do is use it to make floor plans for a renovation project. Not being able to easily see the length of a line is absurd. I am a NOOB and immediately this missing feature makes my job a lot more difficult. Surely the program has this information already. Just give me a tiny little window in the toolbar that shows the length. People have been asking for this for five years. This seems to be to be a tool as necessary as the pen tool itself. Baffled.

Or street, or any time you don't have time to compose your shot perfectly. Good grief.

It would be the same process except it looks like you would have to use Datacolors software because they have the colors flipped on the card for some reason. By taking a quick glance on the Datacolor website it seems that they have software that works withere cards. Just export the ICC profile and apply it in Affinity Photo.

I don't recall this happening to me but it has been a while. I have been using Capture One Pro 20 for 99% of my work. It is just way faster and does what I need. I use Photo only when I need HDR or to do some cool comping and layering work. Why not just adjust the brightness with an adjustment layer after the fact to regain your highlights?

Just found this here in the forum. Seems to be the best answer so far.... Lee D I'm not a window cleaner Moderators 367 2,516 posts Location: Nottingham Both are similar, Brightness will preserve the highlights and is usually used for adjusting midtones whereas adjusting the Exposure will blow them out.

Just noticed this is from 2016 LOL but hey still have the question. I have the same question and that description does not help at all. What is the difference between Lightness and darkness and Highlight and shadow? The manual does nothing to explain the difference either. Seems like something that needs a simple technical answer so users can better understand when to use one over the other or how to use them together better. For me right now it is I try one then the other and go for the one I like best. I just want to understand

! Right! Thanks Gabriel for pointing that out I am not sure how long it would have taken for me to have just stumbled over that one day and gone "wait a second here".

Does it work when you use the mouse? Is the tablet responding? Does the tablet work in other programs? If so you might want to check that the pressure settings are not incorrectly.

Gabriel I could not even find the file you where talking about on my computer it did not seem to exist and I honestly could not be bothered to come back here to try and drag more information out of you. I just wanted to follow up on this thread in the hopes that if this happens to anyone else they know how to fix it with out having to go through all the waiting around. To fix the problem On windows 10 machines navigate to C:/Users/[user name]/AppData/Roaming/Affinity/Photo/1.0/Settings. The AppData folder is hidden so you might need to reveal it by going to the top of your file explorer and check the box beside the "Hidden items" in the "View" tab. Once in that folder find the file named ToolsPreferences and rename it to ToolsPreferences.backup Run Photo and hopefully your problem is fixed. I don't know where that file would be on mac but hopefully if you run into this problem you know where that might be. All the best Affinity Photo users! Peace Anyone who cares about the details the only difference between the two files is this line at the end <HighPrecisionTabletInput>True</HighPrecisionTabletInput> For some reason this line of text was causing the problem. I don't know why or how it got there. I don't imagine another program or driver added it to the affinity ToolsPreferences file. But hey I am not a programmer so I don't rely have a clue. I did take a look to see if the offending line was in the Beta ToolsPreferences file and it was not.

I use a Intel I7 3800 Clocked at 5000 with 16 gigs of 2600 DDR3. My video cards are nothing special R7 200 Series. It seems from looking at the performance monitor in Windows 10 that Affinity Photo almost gets no use out of the video card. It all seems to hit the CPU. This has been confirmed in other threads here on the forum. I am not sure why this is but I am guessing trying to account for all the different video cards would be pretty tough and CPU's are getting pretty dam fast these days. Thank you so much for your lengthy reply to my message. I will go through it and try all of it!

Amazing. I will try that.

GabrielM I have to say that this issue has gotten a little under my skin. So your saying that I should use the un-stable version of 1.7 or just tuff it out with 1.6 with a no longer functioning tablet? No support at all offered in a public forum for a supported feature? It was working fine. Then it stopped working. It is not like it was never supported and I am waiting for it to come down the pipe. The tablet works fine in all other programs. It is an Affinity Photo Problem. I would like at least a suggestion as to what I could try to attempt to fix the issue. Here is a quote from Andy Somerfield that took all of about 10 seconds to google up. Yep should work it seems so why not offer some support? I posted this a month ago. Andy Somerfield Affinity Photo Lead Moderators 2,208 2,241 posts Posted February 15, 2015 Hi, We support pressure and pretty much all other features of modern graphics tablets Thanks,"

I do every single time I have to crop. Having to select it every single time by default as opposed to Photo starting with a constrained ratio is so annoying. Free form cropping is VERY rarely useful in photography in my experience.

Totally get what your saying. I usually shoot a little wide so I can fine tune in the comfort of my home. When I'm out shooting my conditions are often not at a comfortable so I leave that room for myself. Either that or I was shooting with a prime and was unable to get where I wanted, fence, cliff lake or so on. Also vintage lenses are a factor.

The problem is the beta is not stable for me. I have had serious problems with LUT files crashing the program and I don't trust the macros anymore. The drawing tablet was working fine and then with no reason I can think of it just stopped working and only with Affinity Photo 1.6.5.

Hi Every time I load in a new picture to edit it I go to the crop tool. About 95% of the time I want to crop in the same ratio that I took the photo in. I have to think that most people are doing the best they can to frame there photos the way they want them to be. Also there is no use working in free mode as default because it does not relate to printing. It only makes sense to me that the default operation of the crop tool should be set to the ratio that the document is when loaded. Having this even as a little check box somewhere as "Default Ratio as Document" in the settings or something would be amazing. Anyone else feel the same way? All the best

Just trying digiKam now thanks to this thread and love how fast it moves. I have been using Olympus Viewer 3 and it has been very cumbersome. There are so many areas where I would love to see Affinity Photo grow but from my short time with the program it seems that there are many people groaning about things not happening as quickly as they would like. This frightens me seeing that they are launching a new product and running two beta programs. Getting the feeling they are spreading themselves a little thin.

I am still having this problem. Anyone from Sarif care to offer a hand?

Cool thanks guys. For me the tablet is working pretty fast. I am not sure if it is possible for it to be more responsive but I am not a great illustrator/painter. For me I think the only thing slowing me down is my CPU/Video card when using large complex brushes. That gets VERY frustrating. My computer is not exactly slow either. I think it is just the nature of the medium though.

I don't see that version in my account or in the list of available downloads here https://store.serif.com/en-gb/update/windows/photo/1/ Where did you find the update? All the best

So sorry I forgot to mention. I am using Affinity Photo 1.6.5 with Windows 10. I did not make any changes to the computer so I don't think that was it. I have been trying to run the recent Windows update but it has issues with my computer for some reason and won't install. So the only updates have been security patches. The other odd thing is that it works perfectly in the current beta. I also did try re-installing the newest drivers for the Bamboo with no luck. No reason I have not updated. I am going to do that now.

Hi I am using a Bamboo CTH-470 and it has been fine to work with up until yesterday. In Affinity 1.6.5 all I get now are straight lines. I cant see what I am drawing when the pen is down and then when I lift the pen a straight line appears. What is strange is that if I put my pen tip down then click my bottom pen button it draws fine. This is only happening in this version of Affinity Photo. When I try to work in the current Beta it works perfectly. I am not sure if I did something to cause this to happen or if it is just a strange ghost in the machine. I did try a repair install but that did not fix the issue. For today I am going to work in the beta but any help would be welcome. Thanks

AiDion pointed me in the right direction in another thread and after some learning I now understand how to get calibrated colour in Affinity Photo. Not as smooth as I would like but now that I know the steps it does not take long. I posted my process here if anyone is interested. Thanks AiDion for pointing out the Beta x-rite software. It seems like the best way to do it.

Hi all This has been the week of figuring out how to get my colours sorted in Affinity Photo. There is no direct support for the ColorChecker Passport from X-Rite in Affinity Photo unfortunately but I did figure out how to do it with some help. If you use X-Right ColorChecker Passport these are the steps on how to do it. This might be painfully obvious to some people but for me it was all entirely new and took a while to get my head around so I hope that this is some use to people. 1. When you are shooting your photos in a location take a photo of the ColorChecker Passports colour cards and the white card. Make sure they are in the same place as your subject matter and are properly exposed. 2. Import all the photos from your session along with your pictures of the ColorChecker. 3. Open your photos of the ColorChecker in Affinity Photo crop them down if you like and export them as 16 bit Tiff files. 8 bit might work but I have been going with 16 4. Open ColorChecker Tiff photos with the new beta version of ColorChecker Passport Camera Calibration software in the ICC tab. 5. Export your ICC profiles naming them something so you know what photo shoot they go along with. 6. Close down Affinity Photo and then re-open it to refresh the ICC database 7. Open your photos from the associated photo shoot and go to the Document tab and select Assign ICC Profile and select the ICC file you just created. And if all goes well your colour is mostly corrected. 8. Now to set the white balances correctly. Go to White Balance in the Adjustment section. Click the Picker button and then click on the photo that you took during the photo shoot of your white card. This will then automatically make the adjustment. I hope that helps some folks. I did not understand any of this stuff three days ago and it was no fun trying to get my head around it for the first time. If anyone has tips on how to improve upon this workflow please share. I am by no means an expert on this subject. All the best!

Thanks AiDon So frustraiting seeing that I have a SpyderCHECKR 24 sitting beside me on the table. Great to hear that they are working on it though! I might try and return this passport and order the x-Rite one. I have never used a ICC file. Would have to look into how that works. *Update* I am assuming that when you said "The Spyder Checker software now can be used to produce an ICC Profile as I mentioned in this thread:" you where actually refering to the x-rite software. Is that correct?