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Sugar Lion

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  1. I do every single time I have to crop. Having to select it every single time by default as opposed to Photo starting with a constrained ratio is so annoying. Free form cropping is VERY rarely useful in photography in my experience.
  2. Totally get what your saying. I usually shoot a little wide so I can fine tune in the comfort of my home. When I'm out shooting my conditions are often not at a comfortable so I leave that room for myself. Either that or I was shooting with a prime and was unable to get where I wanted, fence, cliff lake or so on. Also vintage lenses are a factor.
  3. The problem is the beta is not stable for me. I have had serious problems with LUT files crashing the program and I don't trust the macros anymore. The drawing tablet was working fine and then with no reason I can think of it just stopped working and only with Affinity Photo 1.6.5.
  4. Hi Every time I load in a new picture to edit it I go to the crop tool. About 95% of the time I want to crop in the same ratio that I took the photo in. I have to think that most people are doing the best they can to frame there photos the way they want them to be. Also there is no use working in free mode as default because it does not relate to printing. It only makes sense to me that the default operation of the crop tool should be set to the ratio that the document is when loaded. Having this even as a little check box somewhere as "Default Ratio as Document" in the settings or something would be amazing. Anyone else feel the same way? All the best
  5. Just trying digiKam now thanks to this thread and love how fast it moves. I have been using Olympus Viewer 3 and it has been very cumbersome. There are so many areas where I would love to see Affinity Photo grow but from my short time with the program it seems that there are many people groaning about things not happening as quickly as they would like. This frightens me seeing that they are launching a new product and running two beta programs. Getting the feeling they are spreading themselves a little thin.
  6. I am still having this problem. Anyone from Sarif care to offer a hand?
  7. Cool thanks guys. For me the tablet is working pretty fast. I am not sure if it is possible for it to be more responsive but I am not a great illustrator/painter. For me I think the only thing slowing me down is my CPU/Video card when using large complex brushes. That gets VERY frustrating. My computer is not exactly slow either. I think it is just the nature of the medium though.
  8. I don't see that version in my account or in the list of available downloads here https://store.serif.com/en-gb/update/windows/photo/1/ Where did you find the update? All the best
  9. So sorry I forgot to mention. I am using Affinity Photo 1.6.5 with Windows 10. I did not make any changes to the computer so I don't think that was it. I have been trying to run the recent Windows update but it has issues with my computer for some reason and won't install. So the only updates have been security patches. The other odd thing is that it works perfectly in the current beta. I also did try re-installing the newest drivers for the Bamboo with no luck. No reason I have not updated. I am going to do that now.
  10. Hi I am using a Bamboo CTH-470 and it has been fine to work with up until yesterday. In Affinity 1.6.5 all I get now are straight lines. I cant see what I am drawing when the pen is down and then when I lift the pen a straight line appears. What is strange is that if I put my pen tip down then click my bottom pen button it draws fine. This is only happening in this version of Affinity Photo. When I try to work in the current Beta it works perfectly. I am not sure if I did something to cause this to happen or if it is just a strange ghost in the machine. I did try a repair install but that did not fix the issue. For today I am going to work in the beta but any help would be welcome. Thanks
  11. AiDion pointed me in the right direction in another thread and after some learning I now understand how to get calibrated colour in Affinity Photo. Not as smooth as I would like but now that I know the steps it does not take long. I posted my process here if anyone is interested. Thanks AiDion for pointing out the Beta x-rite software. It seems like the best way to do it.
  12. Hi all This has been the week of figuring out how to get my colours sorted in Affinity Photo. There is no direct support for the ColorChecker Passport from X-Rite in Affinity Photo unfortunately but I did figure out how to do it with some help. If you use X-Right ColorChecker Passport these are the steps on how to do it. This might be painfully obvious to some people but for me it was all entirely new and took a while to get my head around so I hope that this is some use to people. 1. When you are shooting your photos in a location take a photo of the ColorChecker Passports colour cards and the white card. Make sure they are in the same place as your subject matter and are properly exposed. 2. Import all the photos from your session along with your pictures of the ColorChecker. 3. Open your photos of the ColorChecker in Affinity Photo crop them down if you like and export them as 16 bit Tiff files. 8 bit might work but I have been going with 16 4. Open ColorChecker Tiff photos with the new beta version of ColorChecker Passport Camera Calibration software in the ICC tab. 5. Export your ICC profiles naming them something so you know what photo shoot they go along with. 6. Close down Affinity Photo and then re-open it to refresh the ICC database 7. Open your photos from the associated photo shoot and go to the Document tab and select Assign ICC Profile and select the ICC file you just created. And if all goes well your colour is mostly corrected. 8. Now to set the white balances correctly. Go to White Balance in the Adjustment section. Click the Picker button and then click on the photo that you took during the photo shoot of your white card. This will then automatically make the adjustment. I hope that helps some folks. I did not understand any of this stuff three days ago and it was no fun trying to get my head around it for the first time. If anyone has tips on how to improve upon this workflow please share. I am by no means an expert on this subject. All the best!
  13. Thanks AiDon So frustraiting seeing that I have a SpyderCHECKR 24 sitting beside me on the table. Great to hear that they are working on it though! I might try and return this passport and order the x-Rite one. I have never used a ICC file. Would have to look into how that works. *Update* I am assuming that when you said "The Spyder Checker software now can be used to produce an ICC Profile as I mentioned in this thread:" you where actually refering to the x-rite software. Is that correct?
  14. Dam I just ordered a spyderCHECKER 24 simply assuming that either the software it came with would provide me with something of use or that whatever the spyderCHECKER software outputted would be of use in Affinity Photo. But as it stands it looks like I have a $80 paint chip card. I have to be honest I have been very happy with Serif. I own Photo, Designer and a few brush packs as well. I am about half way through buying all the products at this point. This to me seems like such a absolute necessity in order to be taken seriously at all that the fact that it has not been implemented in some way is completely baffling. But not only has it not been implemented the thread of people requesting it have been completely ignored. Anyone in the "pro world" would take one read through that thread and forget about Serif for a good while I would think. I don't see how something like Picture to LUT would be accurate enough to trust batch processing whole sets of photos through. It is one thing to use it to produce cool film color renditions but to go for absolute accuracy in color that just seems very iffy. Serif please please please take a person off your Puplisher project and implement this. While I hope you guys work on this I will shoot Dattacolor an email asking them to stop kissing Adobies ass and have there software output a dam LUT so the non Adobe section of the world can actually get some use out of there products.
  15. Would this actually produce the same results though as using something like Dattacolor SpyderCHECKER? If so could you not just use affinity photo to create a LUT somehow? I am just trying to think of how that would work. I am thinking you would need to have a digital color reference file to match the photo of the color card you use matching them up using a curve adjustment in Affinity then export it as a LUT. Does that make sense? I don't even know that you get a digital reference file with the color cards though.
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