I shoot a lot of IR with a life pixel modified 590nm Fuji X-E2. As earlier mentioned the filters are only good for modified cameras and the filter choice has to be a higher cutoff than the chosen modification. Simulated IR looks nothing like real infra-red as of course it is not picking up and the IR light in a scene.
A 590nm like mine lets a lot of the IR spectrum in, which has plusses and minuses, depending on what you are after. If you like false color and. to do a lot of manipulation to the contrast, then having a camera with a 665nm, a 590nm or even full spectrum is needed, but the downside is that you have to be much more careful with the custom white balance and you have to of course use a channel mixer to swap the Red and Blue channels and then post process the false color to suit your taste. If found that I normally go for the look of regular infra red or deep IR and so I plan to later have a second camera converted to 720nm and also get a 830nm cutoff filter for my most often used lenses.
It should be pointed out that in real infra red, the choice of lens is critical. Some work beautifully while other lenses are almost unusable due to hot spots. Generally the more expensive the lens - the worse the IR performance and most of the time primes tend to work better than zooms, though some zooms are very good.
So the basic workflow is that you should bring a grey card with you and meter a custom white balance off of it, while it is reflecting the sunlight that you will be exposing for. Sometimes metering folliiage yields better results but since they are always different I set two custom white balances for every landscape and shoot both so that I can choose the one that is better for my purposes when post processing. You can't tell in camera. It is hugely important to set a custom white balance. The auto white balance of some cameras will give poor results, while for most they will give terrible results. What you get home, and get the files into your computer, the first thing you do is a go to the channel mixer, select the blue channel and push the reds to 100%. Then go select your red channel and slide the blues to 100%. That will give you the file you need to post process you false color to taste, or to desaturate any number of ways to your idea of the perfect black & white IR photograph.
I have always used Capture One for my normal work, but in my IR photography I have been very frustrated in some of the editing suites. that do have channel mixers with how clunky they have been. I no longer use any adobe products and so I came here to see what Affinity Photo is all about and to see if does include a channel mixer that will work well with infra red and to see how good the conversions turn out. In that sense, this thread is of high interest to me.
