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James Francis

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  1. Are you trying to say that Serif will never support Android and we should stop asking, and take our business elsewhere?
  2. I second this. I use a Chromebook, and only Clip Studio meets my requirements. I'd happily switch to Affinity Photo, especially as I'm about to pay for another annual Clip license and half my workflow is on Affinity Desktop.
  3. Hi everyone, I've read a lot on my problem, but I'm not closer to answers - other than manually and tediously making HSL adjustments on my image. I have traditional artwork made in watercolour but with pretty bright and saturated colours. I've scanned and prepped these for print, but as you'd know, the CMYK conversion dulls the images. Also, when I do a soft layer gamut test, I get a lot of greys. Now, this isn't a digital artwork, so I can't have used a CMYK profile from the start. Nor does my scanned (Canoscan Lide 400) scan into CMYK. I have found one solution: to make minor HSL adjustments to specifics colours. But I'm not kidding when I say to adjust one type of blue requires 64 individual adjustments (it's watercolour, so the colours have a lot of texture) as well as tweaking the vibrance. I'm adjusting around -2% saturation to keep within the gamut and not lose more saturation. I know I can make fewer adjustments if I go for a higher range, but it's sucking the life out of the colours. Now, I don't expect to replicate what I see on screen, but I do expect to get a little of that colour punch that I can see in the traditional art. The above gets me there, but it's hours and hours of work. Assuming I have to stick to US (SWOP) v2, what are my choices? Will I need to manually adjust for each tiny colour variation? Is there something I can do at the scan stage? I'm using Photo and Publisher, and doing the CMYK proofing/conversion in Designer. I see a lot of talk about using Photoshop and Indesign with Bridge to get a pleasing result. Is this possible in Affinity? thank you, James
  4. Hi, I just spent 20 minutes doing work on a layer I thought was locked. It turns out I can still draw on a locked layer, edit, cut, move... So layer lock does not appear to protect the layer at all. It doesn't stop someone from accidentally editing that layer. Is this a bug? What's the point of layer lock that doesn't lock the layer?
  5. Hi, I figured this out. After you deselect the channels, go down to the Blue Background, right-click and create a grayscale layer.
  6. The Perspective tool under Filters -> Distort is the closest I've found to what you are looking for. (v1.6.5.135)
  7. Okay, thanks. I hope it's a feature you guys will consider. I even sorta recall the shortcut for that in Indesign. it's hardwired in - that's how often I used it! So I hope to see it appear in some form.
  8. Thank you! That's exactly what I was looking for. Is there a way to make a box fit the image? In other words, resizes the image frame to the dimensions and position of the image it's displaying.
  9. Hi everyone, I haven't used publishing software in many years (Indesign), but I do remember there was a way to resize an image's box without resizing the image itself. It basically then masks areas of the image that are outside of the picture frame. Can I do that in Publisher? thanks, James
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