Chris26

Ah good point - I missed that one.  Thanks Alfred.

Does your wife already have an Apple Pencil? If so, it’s almost certainly a version 1 Apple Pencil, not version 2, which will limit your choice of new iPad unless you’re prepared for the extra expense of a new Apple Pencil at the same time.

Ok, so MBP is MacBook Pro and AirDrop is an Apple feature that allows you to transfer files between Apple machines wirelessly (I think it’s magic).  AirDrop is a relatively new feature, so might not be available on your Apple Mac.  I’m sure you’ll find it on any new MacBook Air, but doubt your Mac will offer it.
I find that the hardware products today are quite miraculously long-lived.  I have an iPod Classic that still works (when I try to use it, which is not often).
For me there are a few things that detract from older equipment: none of the newer features (especially security features), and declining ability to run the increasingly demanding applications of today.  Performance is usually what pushes me to update.
Regards

Hi, I am running the V2 apps on a 2019 11” iPad Pro with the latest iPadOS.  I upgraded the V1 apps to V2 when V2 was published.
I do not have problems moving files between my iPad and my old MBP right now, but at one point I did have trouble moving files with AirDrop.  Turns out that was an AirDrop problem which has since been corrected, no hint of trouble at the moment.  I don’t remember exactly when this happened; the problem was easily repeated, and Apple accepted my offer to help define the problem.  They were very responsive and helpful.
I’d guess that if your iPad is running a recent update you won’t have the AirDrop problem.  I can track down an approximate date if you need it; let me know.
Regards
 

@Chris26 My 10.5” iPad Pro died recently and has now been replaced with a new iPad Air M1. The Air has 8Gb of ram (compared to 4Gb on the old Pro models) and the M1 has plenty of power to deal with the Affinity apps. No purchase regret here. M1 to M2 is not a huge performance increase so it makes the Air very competitive performance / cost wise compared to the Pro. The M3 is “rumoured” to be a major performance boost but yet to reach production. In summary an Air will perform flawlessly with Affinity as will the Pros.

Except maybe having not enough iPad free storage space, it might not be hardware related but more software related bugs at all here. Thus I first would take a look through the V2 Bugs found on iPad forum section first, before buying something new here, just in order to prevent later to find out, that pretty much the same behavior things happen with a new iPad hardware too.

I love the smaller up to 10.5 inch iPads for travel, but better get a full sized one. Some UI elements are cut off from smaller screens.
Focus on M1/M2 iPads who support pencil 2.
 

Hallo, You are in luck then because you only have to deal with the length of your page and not the width.  So this should be a very easy task.  If you have a master page for the margins then change the length margin and apply to ALL spreads.   Do you have text box set up in a Master page or are they all seperate or linked? If linked with flowing text then this should be very straight forward to go through each page - 30 seconds per page and you are done -  I had this issue a few months ago and I had to change All the  margins and I had images linked to specific text and even seperately created text boxes coupled with my master page text boxes. and 100 pages to deal with, it only took 30 or 40 minutes so it's not a nighmare.  If you have any difficult issues here let us know.

I am Shocked, really shocked.  I remember posting this and then something went amiss server side probably and I deleted, and it NEVER got posted my end.  Guys, do you really imagine for one moment that I would post duplicates and not bothering answering who had helped me/  Thank you for the heads up, this has never happened before and I know that when I attempted to post it, it failed and I decided not to continue.

To keep informations together I borrow this from another recent thread:
There is still much room for confusion (– apart from possible app issues, e.g. redraw or layer thumbnails for adjustments set to invisible).
In the samples below the Curve Adjustment has Alpha edited (causing inversion & increased contrast). The ellipse has a red fill + thin red stroke. All Blend modes + layer opacity are 'normal' / '100'.
It seems for the Mask layer alone it matters only for the Ellipse stroke whether the mask is in masking or in clipping position …
(all adjustments are deactivated):

… whereas with additional Adjustment layer the stroke doesn't get affected in each sample … while the various Mask results confuse:
Can you describe in words what process gets executed in the 4 samples?
Yellow: the adjustment affects the mask brush as expected … but why does the Mask not mask anymore?
Green: what prevents the mask brush from occurring within the background rectangle … but occurs outside only?
Blue: what prevents the mask brush entirely from occurring?
Pink: what is the black resulting from (… there is no 'white' in this layout that might got inverted) / and what limits the black to this rectangle (… not the full page)?

My goal is not to confuse or detect issues but to understand what's happening with the purpose to be able to predict a result of a setup instead of the need to try it.
v1105 mask&clip.afpub

You have 2 types of nesting child layers to a parent layer:
regular child layer position / half way ident masking position / full ident depending on positions, nested layers may or may not impact or interact with the alpha channel of the parent layer.this will become obvious  if the parent layer is not fully opaque.
 

In your example these two variants don't differ in my opinion.
The vertical hierarchy defines the executing & rendering order, the horizontal hierarchy causes clippling/cropping/masking of the indented 'child' layer. IMHO it doesn't make sense to nest an adjustment or filter layer inside another adjustment or filter layer (which would mean to apply the child to its parent, not to the image). In this example the two nested adjustment/filter layers (red) don't really affect their parent layers.
(Nevertheless, there might be very specific combinations  of adjustments or filters that could not achieve a same result without such nesting or without a separate clipping/cropping object.)

Double post, we had this before.

I stand corrected.  Thank you for pointing that out - bad mistake on my part.  The figures are all the same as you point out.

It would help to have a sample .afpub document that demonstrates your problem, and some screenshots.

If you are talking about the situation illustrated here under, the same file 1) is placed in Affinity @ 300 ppi/100% and viewed @ 100% and 2) is viewed in Apple's Preview @ 100% :

Size is not the same because Preview considers the file is set @ 144 ppi. 
Note there is also a setting in Preview for choosing if 100% means exact printing size or exact pixel representation on screen. Depending on your display resolution, this can also change size on screen.
 

What unit are the documents set to in your tests? I experience different display sizes not in a 'physical', absolute unit like millimeters or inches, but only in pixels. Pixel is a unit without an absolute reference: The size of pixel on your screen depends on the hardware of the monitor + the setting of the screen resolution in the operating system.
It may get possibly more confusing if you change the document resolution while the unit is set to pixels – in this combination the physical size gets changed, too, means if you then switch from pixels back to millimeters or inches not only the document resolution but also the page dimensions have changed.

The first thing I would do would be to rule out the issue being with the print driver (or any other annoying windows update_ I always have those updates turned off by the way - never allow microsoft an inch of space within your printer environment), any I digress, silly question - have you done a test print from within the printer itself, a little cleaning and a little house work?  I once had an issue when suddenly I realise that my Cyan was faulty, had spent days blaming everything except the actual ink.  Just a thought.
Sorry Regards updates, I am referring to microsoft's unwelcome intrusion with their driver updates, they do more harm than good.  I am NOT refrring to Printer updates that are accessed directly from or for your model, this is different all together.  Just had to clarify.
 

Serif have never suggested that, as far as I know. Some users have suggested it, as in that linked thread, but not Serif staff.
Serif have generally pointed out that PSD is a proprietary and (in many areas) an undocumented format, which is true. Anyone trying to support those functions needs to invest the time to reverse-engineer the file format, and risks making mistakes doing that, and then having to keep reacting to further changes in that area.
 

Hallo Amy, there is so much to say one hardly knows where to begin.  Maybe in the first instance  I will outline some ideas that might be useful to help you:
1. There is one catastrophic difference between a proper computer screen and a laptop screen - the laptoop screen is completely inconsistent in ts representation of tone and colour unless you keep the screen at a consistent angle and you look at it at a consistent angle. Always before print I have my laptop screen at a certain known angle where I am assured that the lightness and/or darkness of the image will come out roughly as I am seeing it.
2. Sharpness.  The dot that is laid down on your paper will spread, this means that the sharpness on your screen will not be the sharpness you will get on any photographic paper.  What you will always always need to do is to sharpen for print, make a copy of your image and OVER sharpen to compensate for the printer ink.  You will find that you will have to over-sharpen in an ugly way for matt paper and cheapy paper, but for gloss you will only need to sharpen less than you would do for matte.
3. Colour.  I assume you have not gone through the monitor calibration and getting custom ICC profiles for your paper, this is ok.  You can still be confident that what you don't see on your screen is what you want on your print out 🙂 (the same as saying that you can be confident that what prints out is what you want in spite of the screen).  Download a test image from Northlight Images, from here https://www.northlight-images.co.uk/printer-test-images/  Keith's site is an excellent source of knowledge.  Print a colour image out from here and note the differences between screen and print.  This will take so much guess work out of this cunundrum that we all have had to face.
4 There is some advantage in converting JPEG to TIFF before doing any adjustments, then print from TIFF.
5.  The image that you are showing above, if this was mine I would use HIGH PASS sharpening just before I print it.  If a 2 pixel radius looked perfect, then I would double it at least for print. But this is only based upon what I am seeing above. 
I hope something here is useful.
 

Hallo Lyndhurst, if you are new to photo editing then naturally the Affinity work book will help, unfortunately it would be wiser to begin with some basic understanding, then working through a tutorial book would become more fruitful as you encounter concepts and termnology.  I recommend this site as an excellent start:  https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/photo-editing-tutorials.htm    I am sure you will want to find your own, but there is both straight to the point and clarity in these simple discussions of the most basic photo editing concepts.  I wish you success and the least amount of head banging at times.

Hallo Lyndhurst, if you are new to photo editing then naturally the Affinity work book will help, unfortunately it would be wiser to begin with some basic understanding, then working through a tutorial book would become more fruitful as you encounter concepts and termnology.  I recommend this site as an excellent start:  https://www.cambridgeincolour.com/photo-editing-tutorials.htm    I am sure you will want to find your own, but there is both straight to the point and clarity in these simple discussions of the most basic photo editing concepts.  I wish you success and the least amount of head banging at times.

@Chris26
 
You can cmd+opt+click on a thumbnail to get a luminosity-based pixel selection.
Alternatively, duplicate an object/layer then do Rasterise To Mask to convert it to a luminosity-based Mask.
However, you don't actually need a luminosity mask for your high pass filter. Every layer/object, including live filters, has built-in blend options with graphs for controlling opacity according to the luminosity of the layer/object itself or the luminosity of the underlying scene. The cog wheel at top right of the Layers panel opens the Blend Options for a layer/object.
My screenshot shows an example of a live filter being made less opaque for brighter pixels of the background image.

Hi, you can create a mask from any active selection by adding a mask. It is neither fully white or black, but shows white in selected areas and black elsewhere.
But do not forget to „deselect all“ (cmd-d / ctrl-d) after creating the mask. 
Similarly, if you have a selection active while adding a highpass live filter, the Selektion will be used a§ inherent mask for the filter layer.
last, you can invert the mask any time with cmd-I / ctrl-I
Hope that helps.