Smee Again

Hi all,
I have received the clear to share one of the projects I have done recently using affinity Designer.
I took advantage of the isometric plane features for this one
 
So: the first stage was to take an illustration of a bespoke design for my client's own client (a mongram onto a watch)
second stage was to reproduce a flat design using AD
then composite it onto a real image of a watch (that's where the isometric comes handy  )

Cleint was happy and I am proud of it too!

Tinkering during a slow work week. Inspired by the rain hammering against my office window.

It's as much how long it takes as ability, perhaps more so. You aren't going to finish one as a rainy Sunday project. But as far as ability goes it's like a lot of things, the thought of it is often worse than actually doing it.  You're not using many tools so even if you're a beginner there's not much to learn.

Transferring images to canvas has been around since the early pin hole camera obscura's. Vermeer later used a lens based camera obscura for his works. Going in to the 1960's some photorealistic artists used projectors to project a slide on to their canvas. So the idea isn't new it's just that the way you go about it has changed.  
Now having said that there are still varying degrees of talent involved, my way is at the bottom end, it's more technique and patience than anything artistic, whereas  just tracing outlines and doing the rest yourself is at the other end. My stuff is more like the Adobe Illustrator vector mesh illustrations, which you don't see so much these days, except it's done with just the pen tool.
Not everyone will like it and some will think it's cheating or just tracing so nothing clever. But then I never say it's art or clever and often say anyone can do it, it's just for fun. So play along if you like.
The Subject
I saw a huge dragonfly fly past me last week when I was out cycling and it's something I've thought about doing before but I've never got around to it. So I thought that would be a good one to do next, it's fiddly with all the mottling and colour blends and the depth of field on a macro shot makes it even more so. I had a look for a decent size reference photo and came across this, it's not the same sort as I saw but it looks good. Unfortunately when you zoom in it has lots of artefacts but just gives you more work so that's ok (I think). The million trillion hairs will be fun (nope).
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Yellow-winged_darter
Below is how I’m starting this project. Sometimes I do the background last rather than first if it's a simple one or I don't know what to use but it's basically the same process for anything.
Adjustments
So the first thing I do are any adjustments I think it needs like levels or curves, just like any photo. Then  depending on the size I enlarge it, I use Photoshop's Preserve Details Enlargement option, I don't know what that would be in AP but someone probably will. So for this one I doubled the size to just over 5kx3k
Backups
I personally don't use the built in AD snapshots, I backup to another drive. It's up to you but, for example, if the file became corrupt so do your snapshots (correct me if I'm wrong).
Tools , Toolbar and Panels
I turn Tools and Toolbar off (not the context toolbar as you will use that sometimes) to give me a bit more space. I'm only using Pen (P), Move Tool (V), Node Tool (A) and Colour Picker Tool (I) so I use the keyboard shortcuts.  The only two panels I have are Colour and below it Layers. 
I also have Edit>Preferences>User Interface>Show Selection in Layers Panel checked. So that when you click on an object it's shown in the layers panel rather having to scroll through to find it. Although it doesn't always work.
Create The AD Document
Open the image in AD. I rename the photograph layer to Photo as I call my background group Background. For this I set the File>Document Setup>Colour>Colour Format to RGB/16 but sometimes I leave it at the default RGB/8. Then save it as a AD file.
Blurs
You soon get used to how much blur you need to use, so how much for a little bit up to how much to blend it in. Obviously it varies depending on resolution. One thing is you do need a blur on the edges or when it’s on the background it will look like it’s been out out and stuck on. Sometimes it might be only a tiny bit but do you do need some.
Create The Background
It's just a blurry background, You can either try and copy the photo or do it a bit differently but it makes sense to keep the light and dark areas in the same places. I didn't like the light green band across the top so basically got rid of that and added a few bits of brown. It might need some little adjustments at the end.
I created a rectangle with snapping temporarily turned on (that's about the only time I use it unless I add a border) and a bit of a left to right gradient using the dark colours from the photo. I then created the shapes in a sub-group, I set the group to 100px blur and then the individual objects to 100px blur too. I think it's just my imagination but I thought it showed less banding than just setting the group to 200px blur. So you you could just do that instead.
Oh remember to lock you groups.


The Reed
I created the reed shape, I added a little bit of brown to the basic gradient as it was bit blown out and bright in the photo. I'll add few bits of detail every time I want a break from the main image.
Abdomen
I never do it as one big object I break it in to parts. I decided to start with the abdomen to make sure I could get it looking anything like the photo. I wasn't sure how best to manage the objects in this part but decided to do a group per segment and under there a group for the details and a group for the basic colour bands.  I created the main shape filled with a gradient colour picked from the darkest part from each segment.  
So for my first test segment the basic background gradients looked like this at which point you think it's never going to work but it will

Then you add as much detail as you want or need. It perhaps doesn’t look like much but it takes me quite a time.

 

If you flip the dark fill over to stroke (with the background and reed turned off) then you can see how well it blends in with the photo, or doesn’t. You can then also toggle the segment and see if you’ve missed any obvious highlights or shadows.

(cropped)
Next
I might do the head next then move on to the near side legs but at this rate it's not going to be for a while.
So that should be enough to get you started if you really want to try it out. I'll try and upload the AD file if anyone's interested even though there's not a load in it (I just tried but it kept failing). 
 

Thanks.

Camouflage Vector Assets (Updated)
Extended the Assets set with:
1. New version with 47 additional vector assets. [Filename: vectorAssets - Camouflage- 01]...old version removed!
2. New sub-category :Textures 02
3. New assets added to Branches; Plant:Forms and Plant: Leaves
4. Updates to PDF's and Jpeg visuals

 

The first example is the blown out pic from my Nikon L340 with no adjustments.
In the second example, I have roughly masked out the single rose I want to modify and applied a curves adjustment to knock down some of the blown out color.
In the third example, I have added a layer for luminosity adjustment. I made a greyscale copy of the blue chanel and used the luminosity blend mode, adjusting opacity to where I am beginning to like it.
If I were to finish the image, there would be some brightness/contrast adjustments made to the blue channel greyscale image in order to get the color just right.
Now the rose is closer to the color and look my eyes saw that attracted me to the image to begin with.

I saw that after my post. It was just weird to see little poles showing up as I was working on the image. I thought something was amiss on my end.

@Smee Again
Here how it looks like now. I didn't try the gradient tool for the HSL adjustment yet.
 

Big improvement.
To apply HSL to only the sky, use the HSL layer's mask.
Click on the HSL layer, then treat it like a layer mask. For your image's sky, you can probably get a pretty good selection with the selection brush. Fill the selection with a white to black gradient (white on top, black on bottom). Then deselect the area, and hit <CTR:> + I (I for Invert). Now double click on the HSL layer and adjust your colors as you wish. You also may want to experiment with the blend modes for the HSL layer as it can really make a difference. Remember that you can adjust the transparency of that HSL layer as weil. Quick try ...

Yeah, color choices are poor, but just to show that you can boost only what you want by using the masking ability of the adjustment layers.

Ok... I tried redoing the entire project. Not sure what else I can do. This time, I removed the windmills, the houses, the birds and a log.
Removed the haze. Added a clarity live filter. I increased the exposure for the mountain using a graduated tool (from the botom of the mountain to the sky). Added white balance. Lens correction filter. Added vibrance layer. Added luminosity/Contraste layer. I tried ading a HSL layer with no success (I couldn't increase the color of the sky without affecting the rest of the photo). There is still noise in the photo and I can't remove it.

Hello.
I've been using Photo for quite a while now on iPad and have just purchased the Mac version.
So far a great app, but there is one major (at least for me) feature missing – the fill slider for layers, like in Photoshop.
I use fill far more often than opacity in Photoshop, because the way blend modes and effects interact with the background better suits my editing style and requirements.
Here's an example of the different ways blending is handled when using fill vs. opacity:

 
I don't seem to be able to replicate that effect or behavior in Affinity Photo by any means.
Please implement this functionality in Photo for both Desktop and iPad.
Thank you!
Michael
 

Red Eyed Tree Frogs are native to Mexico, Central America and go all the way down to Colombia (perhaps on holiday). Its scientific name is A. callidryas, which comes from Greek words kalos (beautiful) and dryas (a tree or wood nymph).
I was chatting with someone about drawing and she liked to do Victorian style flora and fauna illustrations (I think there’s a proper name for it but I forget). I said that I usually try for realistic when I mess around for fun and she wanted to see something. One her favourite things are frogs, she has lots of ornaments etc in her house. So I did this, I think it might be the first living thing that I’ve done properly although I'll probably do a bit more to it sometime.
Just the pen tool, no textures.

 

Vector Assets Library
First upload of vector assets from the Camouflage Project
Added a limited number of vector assets to the resources section of the form: (here)
Original Texture Assets are here

Enjoy!

Vector Assets: Camouflage
Added some vector assets based on Camouflage consisting of:
1. Mesh (10)
2. Composites (7)
3. Textures 01 (10)
4. Branch (10)
5. Plants:Leaves (32)
6. Plant:Forms (11)
7. Textures 02 (10)

With the exception of Composites detailing has been removed.
samples as below:
Vector Assets Camouflage_01.pdf

Vector Assets Camouflage 02.pdf

Vector Assets Camouflage 03.pdf

Vector Assets Camouflage 04.pdf

Version 01: 6 categories and 43 Vector Assets in 6 Categories
Version 02: Categories and 90 vector Assets in 7 Categories
vectorAssets - Camouflage 01.zip
 
 
vectorAssets - Camouflage.zip

Additional Vectors #6
Extending Vectors and adding vector assets 

Two images combined to make this bit of an abstract Marigold. Blend If, color layer, mirror filter, and blend modes.

Hello Affiniteers! I am a long-time Illustrator user and now a recent convert to Affinity Designer and wanted to share what I've made with AD. I saw the sale that was going on about a month ago and decided to pull the trigger. Glad I did as Affinity Designer is a very well-oiled machine that already offers a robust set of features that have been brilliantly thought out and has immense potential for further features. Well done team Serif! One of the features that I was most interested in when I purchased AD was the isometric grid and its features. I started out with a simple project: The NES controller. It's just a cube at the end of the day so I figured it'd make for a great first project. The tools are pretty self-explanatory if you are familiar with other design software and everything felt incredibly intuitive. Anywho, I have a habit of droning on and on when I'm excited about something and Affinity Designer definitely inspires that side of me. So without any further ado, please enjoy some of my work.






I hope you enjoy my work! I plan to keep on making more isometric controllers for the time being, with a Gamecube controller being the next piece. Like my work? Check out my Dribbble account where you can see more: https://dribbble.com/b_houtz
I also just joined this hip new thing called "Instagram" recently in 2019 and if you're looking for an account to follow (hah) I would be honored to have you join me: https://www.instagram.com/sly_hound/

On some of these controller posts, I have thoughts on Affinity Designer for those who are interested in such things. Thanks!

Nice results!
So, did you do it with "Blemish Remover" or with "Frequency separation"?

Very nice! Thanks.

Just released!  A Leadlighting kit for Affinity!  Styles are all 300 DPI tileable  textures Great for Both Digital and Print projects!
 
https://www.creativefabrica.com/product/leadlight-designers-kit-for-affinity/
 
 

Yes, very nice results! 

 

I recently bought Photo – almost seemed rude not to at the discounted price – and I’m amazed/daunted at the amount of tools that are in there.
It will probably take me a very long time just to get under the surface of what’s possible but I thought I’d give myself a little challenge.
I wanted to see if I could do some basic editing and decided to try and de-freckle a photo.
I’ve attached the original and result side by side.
I didn’t want to totally expunge every single ‘blemish’ and leave the young lady looking like a shop dummy so I tried to leave her skin as I think it could be without the freckles while still having some of the other things that skin naturally has.
It’s not perfect by any means but I was very pleased with what I could do in around an hour with just the Blemish Removal Tool (and Undo).
I haven’t posted this as any kind of “Look at this great thing I’ve done”, rather I’ve posted it in the hope that people thinking about buying Photo might ask themselves: “If this bloke can do this with no training or artistic talent, just think what could be possible if I got my hands on this.”
Note: I have absolutely nothing against freckles. I just chose the photo as it looked like a difficult one to experiment on, which, in the end, it wasn’t because of the tools in Photo.

Sunday’s practice. Shapes and curves , self made vector brushes . 

C&C are always very welcome - I make no bones about not being an artist (which is also why I'm not comfortable doing things for friends but I've a couple of them who do ask) and while I've little ambition on my part, I'm always happy to glean anything I can from the advice from those who are and are willing to give it.
Poser anatomy has always been a little odd and I'm afraid that I'm working with some fairly old models that I was able to purchase a lot of stuff for cheaply in sales over the last couple of years (I think you can only afford to get into using it if you go the route of buying the old stuff cheap - this wouldn't be a viable way of producing cheap covers otherwise).
Poser's camera always needs a bit of adjusting from the defaults. I must admit, I thought I had it just right when I rendered and certainly, nothing noticed in the faux painting - but when the arm was overlapped against the white panel, divorcing it from its context, then things started to look tricky as it just pops right out. There was a bit of creative selection and lightening up all round which helped but now that you mention it, I suppose it may even be possible to shorten the arm a little within Affinity, so I might just give that a go when I get back from my holiday (I'm just having a last cup  of tea before I leave). I'll re-post if I manage it.
I shall also have a go at that thumb